Open and closed-loop recycling of textile and apparel products

Textile waste is a significant contributor to landfill yet the majority of textiles can be recycled, allowing for the energy and fibre to be reclaimed. This chapter examines the open-loop and closed loop recycling of textile products with particular reference to the fashion and apparel context. It describes the fibres used within apparel, the current mechanical and chemical methods for textile recycling, LCA findings for each method, and applications within apparel for each. Barriers for more effective recycling include ease of integration into existing textile and apparel design methods as well as coordinated collection of post-consumer waste. The chapter concludes with a discussion of innovations that point to future trends in both open-loop and closed-loop recycling within the apparel industry.

Tensions, transisitions and triumphs : examining the transitional experience of fashion students between school and university

Joining any new community involves transition and adaptation. Just as we learn to adapt to different cultures when we choose to live abroad, so students learn the language and culture of an academic community in order to succeed within that environment. At the same time however, students bring with them individual learning styles and expectations, influenced by their prior experiences of learning and of life more generally. Some have excelled at school; others have come to fashion seeking something in which to excel for the first time. Commencing a degree in fashion design brings students into contact with peers and lecturers who share their passion, providing them with a community of practice which can be both supportive and at the same time intimidating.----- In Queensland where university level study in fashion is such a new phenomenon, few applicants have any depth of training in design when they apply to study fashion. Unlike disciplines such as Dance or Visual Art, where lecturers can expect a good level of skill upon entry to a degree program, we have to look for the potential evidenced in an applicant’s portfolio, much of which is untutored work that they have generated themselves in preparation for application. This means that many first year fashion students at QUT whilst very passionate about the idea of fashion design are often very naïve about the practice of fashion design, with limited knowledge of the history or cultural context of fashion and few of the technical skills needed to translate their ideas into three dimensional products.----- For teachers engaging with first year students in the design studios, it is critical to be cognizant of this mix of different experiences, expectations and emotions in order to design curricula and assessment that stretch and engage students without unduly increasing their sense of frustration and anxiety. This paper examines a first year project designed to provide an introduction to design process and to learning within a creative discipline. The lessons learnt provide a valuable and transferable resource for lecturers in a variety of art and design disciplines.

Neo-Dandy

Neo-Dandy was a practice-led research project that explored histories of a quintessential men’s and womenswear garment from across the ages — the formal white dress shirt. The aim was to generate a body of radically new mens’ shirts that, whilst incorporating characteristics normally associated with womenswear, would remain acceptable to male wearers. A detailed study identified a broad spectrum of historical design approaches, ranging from the orthodox man’s shirt to the many variations of the women’s blouse. Within this spectrum a threshold was discovered where the men’s shirt morphed into the woman’s blouse — a ‘design moment’ that appeared to typify the dandy figure (a fashion character who subversively confronts dress norms of their day). The research analysed thousands of archive catwalk images from leading contemporary menswear designers, and of these, only a small number tampered appreciably with the men’s white dress shirt — suggesting a new realm of possibility for fashion design innovation. This led to the creation of a new body of work labelled ‘Neo-Dandy’. Sixty ‘concept shirts’ were produced, with differing styles and varying degrees of detailing, that fitted the brief of being acceptable to male wearers, eminently ‘wearable’ and on a threshold position between menswear and womenswear. These designs were each tested, documented, and assessed in their capacity to evolve the Neo-Dandy aesthetic. Based on these outcomes, a list of key design principles for achieving this aesthetic was identified to assist designers in further evolving this style. The creative work achieved substantial public acclaim with the ‘Neo Dandy Collection’ winning a prestigious Design Institute of Australia Award (Lifestyle category) and being one of four finalists in the prestigious overall field for design excellence. It was subsequently curated into three major Brisbane exhibitions — the ARC Biennial, at Artisan Gallery and the industry leader, the Mercedes Benz Fashion Festival. The collection was also exhibited at the Queensland Art Gallery.

Neo-Dandy

Neo-Dandy was a practice-led research project that explored histories of a quintessential men’s and womenswear garment from across the ages — the formal white dress shirt. The aim was to generate a body of radically new mens’ shirts that incorporated characteristics normally associated with womenswear, whist remaining acceptable to male wearers. A detailed study identified a broad spectrum of historical design approaches, ranging from the orthodox man’s shirt to the many variations of the women’s blouse. Within this spectrum a threshold was discovered where the men’s shirt morphed into the woman’s blouse — a ‘design moment’ that appeared to typify the dandy figure (a fashion character who subversively confronts dress norms of their day). The research analysed thousands of archive catwalk images from leading contemporary menswear designers, and of these, only a small number tampered appreciably with the men’s white dress shirt — suggesting a new realm of possibility for fashion design innovation. This led to the creation of a new body of work labelled ‘Neo-Dandy’. Sixty ‘concept shirts’ were produced, with differing styles and varying degrees of detailing, that fitted the brief of being acceptable to male wearers, eminently ‘wearable’ and on a threshold position between menswear and womenswear. These designs were each tested, documented, and assessed in their capacity to evolve the Neo-Dandy aesthetic. Based on these outcomes, a list of key design principles for achieving this aesthetic was identified to assist designers in further evolving this style. The creative work achieved substantial public acclaim with the ‘Neo Dandy Collection’ winning a prestigious Design Institute of Australia Award (Lifestyle category) and being one of four finalists in the prestigious overall field for design excellence. It was subsequently curated into three major Brisbane exhibitions — the ARC Biennial, at Artisan Gallery and the industry leader, the Mercedes Benz Fashion Festival. The collection was also exhibited at the Queensland Art Gallery.

Proton-transfer versus nontransfer in compounds of the diazo-dye precursor 4-(phenyldiazenyl) aniline (aniline yellow) with strong organic acids: the 5-sulfosalicylate and the dichroic benzenesulfonate salts, and the 1:2 adduct with 3,5-dinitrobenzoic

The structures of two 1:1 proton-transfer red-black dye compounds formed by reaction of aniline yellow [4-(phenyldiazenyl)aniline] with 5-sulfosalicylic acid and benzenesulfonic acid, and a 1:2 nontransfer adduct compound with 3,5-dinitrobenzoic acid have been determined at either 130 or 200 K. The compounds are 2-(4-aminophenyl)-1-phenylhydrazin-1-ium 3-carboxy-4-hydroxybenzenesulfonate methanol solvate, C12H12N3+.C7H5O6S-.CH3OH (I), 2-(4-aminophenyl)-1-hydrazin-1-ium 4-(phenydiazinyl)anilinium bis(benzenesulfonate), 2C12H12N3+.2C6H5O3S-, (II) and 4-(phenyldiazenyl)aniline-3,5-dinitrobenzoic acid (1/2) C12H11N3.2C~7~H~4~N~2~O~6~, (III). In compound (I) the diaxenyl rather than the aniline group of aniline yellow is protonated and this group subsequently akes part in a primary hydrogen-bonding interaction with a sulfonate O-atom acceptor, producing overall a three-dimensional framework structure. A feature of the hydrogen bonding in (I) is a peripheral edge-on cation-anion association involving aromatic C--H...O hydrogen bonds, giving a conjoint R1/2(6)R1/2(7)R2/1(4)motif. In the dichroic crystals of (II), one of the two aniline yellow species in the asymmetric unit is diazenyl-group protonated while in the other the aniline group is protonated. Both of these groups form hydrogen bonds with sulfonate O-atom acceptors and thee, together with other associations give a one-dimensional chain structure. In compound (III), rather than proton-transfer, there is a preferential formation of a classic R2/2(8) cyclic head-to-head hydrogen-bonded carboxylic acid homodimer between the two 3,5-dinitrobenzoic acid molecules, which in association with the aniline yellow molecule that is disordered across a crystallographic inversion centre, result in an overall two-dimensional ribbon structure. This work has shown the correlation between structure and observed colour in crystalline aniline yellow compounds, illustrated graphically in the dichroic benzenesulfonate compound.

Near-infrared spectroscopic studies of human scalp hair in a forensic context

Human hair is a relatively inert biopolymer and can survive through natural disasters. It is also found as trace evidence at crime scenes. Previous studies by FTIRMicrospectroscopy and – Attenuated Total Reflectance (ATR) successfully showed that hairs can be matched and discriminated on the basis of gender, race and hair treatment, when interpreted by chemometrics. However, these spectroscopic techniques are difficult to operate at- or on-field. On the other hand, some near infrared spectroscopic (NIRS) instruments equipped with an optical probe, are portable and thus, facilitate the on- or at –field measurements for potential application directly at a crime or disaster scene. This thesis is focused on bulk hair samples, which are free of their roots, and thus, independent of potential DNA contribution for identification. It explores the building of a profile of an individual with the use of the NIRS technique on the basis of information on gender, race and treated hair, i.e. variables which can match and discriminate individuals. The complex spectra collected may be compared and interpreted with the use of chemometrics. These methods can then be used as protocol for further investigations. Water is a common substance present at forensic scenes e.g. at home in a bath, in the swimming pool; it is also common outdoors in the sea, river, dam, puddles and especially during DVI incidents at the seashore after a tsunami. For this reason, the matching and discrimination of bulk hair samples after the water immersion treatment was also explored. Through this research, it was found that Near Infrared Spectroscopy, with the use of an optical probe, has successfully matched and discriminated bulk hair samples to build a profile for the possible application to a crime or disaster scene. Through the interpretation of Chemometrics, such characteristics included Gender and Race. A novel approach was to measure the spectra not only in the usual NIR range (4000 – 7500 cm-1) but also in the Visible NIR (7500 – 12800 cm-1). This proved to be particularly useful in exploring the discrimination of differently coloured hair, e.g. naturally coloured, bleached or dyed. The NIR region is sensitive to molecular vibrations of the hair fibre structure as well as that of the dyes and damage from bleaching. But the Visible NIR region preferentially responds to the natural colourants, the melanin, which involves electronic transitions. This approach was shown to provide improved discrimination between dyed and untreated hair. This thesis is an extensive study of the application of NIRS with the aid of chemometrics, for matching and discrimination of bulk human scalp hair. The work not only indicates the strong potential of this technique in this field but also breaks new ground with the exploration of the use of the NIR and Visible NIR ranges for spectral sampling. It also develops methods for measuring spectra from hair which has been immersed in different water media (sea, river and dam)

Fashion manufacturing in New Zealand : can design contribute to a sustainable fashion Industry?

In the late 1990s New Zealand fashion gained some international recognition for its dark edginess and intellectual connection due to its colonial past (Molloy, 2004). In the years since, this momentum seems to have dissipated as local fashion companies have followed a global trend towards inexpensive off shore manufacturing. The transfer of the making of garments to overseas workers appears to have resulted in a local fashion scene where many garments look the same in style, colour, cut and fit. The excitement of the past, where the majority of fashion designers established their own individuality through the cut and shape of the garments that they produced, may have been inadvertently lost. Consequently a sustainable New Zealand fashion and manufacturing industry, with design integrity, seems further out of reach. The first question posed by this research project is, ‘can the design and manufacture of a fashion garment, bearing in mind certain economic and practical restrictions at its inception, result in the development of a distinctive ‘look’ or ‘handwriting’?’ Second, through development of a collection of prototypes, can potential garments be created to be sustainably manufactured in New Zealand?

On Gloves

This article explores the historical symbolic meanings of gloves.

Phenyl-ring disorder in the two-dimensional hydrogen-bonded structure of the 1:1 proton-transfer salt of the diazo-dye precursor 4-(phenyldiazenyl)aniline (aniline yellow) with L-tartaric acid

The structure of the 1:1 proton-transfer compound from the reaction of L-tartaric acid with the azo-dye precursor aniline yellow [4-(phenylazo)aniline], 4-(phenyldiazenyl)anilinium hydrogen 2R,3R-tartrate C12H12N3+ . C4H6O6- has been determined at 200 K. The asymmetric unit of the compound contains two independent phenylazoanilinium cations and two hydrogen L-tartrate anions. The structure is unusual in that all four phenyl rings of both cations have identical 50% rotational disorder. The two hydrogen L-tartrate anions form independent but similar chains through head-to-tail carboxylic O--H...O~carboxyl~ hydrogen bonds [graph set C7] which are then extended into a two-dimensional hydrogen-bonded sheet structure through hydroxyl O--H...O hydrogen-bonding links. The anilinium groups of the phenyldiazenyl cations are incorporated into the sheets and also provide internal hydrogen-bonding extensions while their aromatic tails layer in the structure without significant interaction except for weak \p--\p interactions [minimum ring centroid separation, 3.844(3) \%A]. The hydrogen L-tartrate residues of both anions have the common short intramolecular hydroxyl O--H...O~carboxyl~ hydogen bonds. This work has provided a solution to the unusual disorder problem inherent in the structure of this salt as well as giving another example of the utility of the hydrogen tartrate in the generation of sheet substructures in molecular assembly processes.

Fashion design research : research methodologies for emerging researchers [Abstract]

This paper attempts to address some fundamental issues faced by new and emerging researchers in the discipline of Fashion design. A culture of patchwork research methodology appears to have become the norm in an attempt to ‘fit’ fashion design research into an academic paradigm for the examination of readers from more traditional research fields such as Arts, Humanities, Science and Philosophy. Two key questions are discussed here; is it appropriate for fashion researchers to adopt and adapt existing research methodologies to find a scholarly, academic voice? Secondly; do these methodologies enable fashion design research to be effectively disseminated to professionals and fellow researchers within the discipline of fashion design?

Full circle : the future of sustainable fashion manufacturing in New Zealand

Many fashion businesses in New Zealand have followed a global trend towards inexpensive off shore manufacturing. The transfer of the production of garments to overseas workers has had consequences for the wellbeing of local businesses, fashion designers and garment makers. The gradual decline of fashion manufacturing also appears to have resulted in a local fashion scene where many garments look the same in style, colour, fabric, cut and fit. The excitement of the past, where the majority of fashion designers established their own individuality through the cut and shape of the garments that they produced, may have been inadvertently lost in an effort to take advantage of cost savings achieved through mass production and manufacturing methods which are now largely unavailable in New Zealand. Consequently, a sustainable local fashion and manufacturing industry, with design integrity, seems further out of reach. This paper is focussed upon the thesis that the design and manufacture of a fashion garment, bearing in mind certain economic and practical restrictions at its inception, can contribute to a more sustainable fashion manufacturing industry in New Zealand.

Ethical fashion : the human stories driving a fashion movement

This paper examines and compares two stories, the novel Helen Fleetwood (Elizabeth, 1841) and the film China Blue (Teddy Bear Films, 2005), in relation to the Ethical Fashion movement. In 2005, more than 50 designers from around the world took part in The Ethical Fashion Show in Paris. This movement dictates that designers ensure that their garments are produced in an ethical manner, rather than support the ‘sweatshop’ environments of some industrialists determined to make a profit at the expense of workers rights. The momentum of the Ethical Fashion movement suggests that it is possible for fashion to be ethical, desirable and profitable in the 21st century. In 1841, after extensive research, Charlotte Elizabeth Tonna (using the pseudonym Charlotte Elizabeth) began to write about the atrocities of the factory system in industrialised England. Her novel, Helen Fleetwood, is one of the earliest examples of this kind of work, providing the reader with an extensive insight into the life of English factory workers in the mid-19th century. The story is about the Widow Green and her orphan dependents who are led, through circumstance, to leave their rural home and take up employment in the cotton mills of Manchester, with the hope of having an independent existence. Instead they discover the realities of factory life – extremely long hours, unsafe conditions, poor wages and a steady decline into extreme poverty. In his film China Blue (Teddy Bear Films, 2005), director Micha X. Peled tells an alarmingly similar tale set in 21st century China. This ‘docu-drama’ (a recreation from actual interviews and diary entries) tells the story of ‘Little Jasmine’ who leaves her family’s farm to pursue an independent life in Southern China’s manufacturing district. It is not long before the realities of modern factory life are revealed to the teenage ‘heroine’ – crowded dormitories, long working hours, arbitrary fines and wages that do not compare with those of workers in the Western world. While much of the human story remains unchanged, there have been significant improvements in technology and safety in the last 165 years that result in the reality that not all clothing manufacture is performed in ‘sweatshop’ conditions. After a recent visit to a manufacturing plant in China, consultation with peers in the industry and having worked in the Australian fashion industry for many years, the author compares these stories with her own experiences.