Silk purse, sow’s ear : transforming second-Hand clothing into luxury fashion through craft practice

There is more apparel being created than ever before in history. The unsustainable production of materials and the clothing and textile waste that contributes annually to landfill, an estimated 500 000 tonnes of clothing per year in the UK (Gray, 2012) are significant issues inspiring the practice of Australian fashion designers, Carla van Lunn and Carla Binotto. While the contemporary fashion industry is built upon a production and consumption model that is younger than the industrial revolution, the traditions of costume, craft, and bodily adornment are ancient practices. Binotto and van Lunn believe that the potential for sustainable fashion practice lies outside the current industrial manufacturing model. This case study will discuss their fashion label, Maison Briz Vegas, and examine how recycling and traditional craft practices can be used to address the problem of clothing waste and offer an alternative idea of value in fashion and materials, addressing the indicative conference theme, Craft as Sustainability Activism in Practice. “Maison Briz Vegas”, a play on the notion of French luxury and the designers’ new world and sub-tropical home town, Brisbane, is an experimental and craft-based fashion label that uses second-hand cotton T-shirts and wool sweaters as primary materials to create designer fashion. The first collection, titled “The Wasteland”, was conceived and created in Paris in 2011, where designer Carla van Lunn had been living and working for several years. The collection was inspired by the precariousness of the global economy and concerns about climate change. The mountains of discarded clothing found at flea markets provided a textile resource from which van Lunn created a recycled hand-crafted fashion collection with an activist message and was shown to buyers and press during Paris Fashion Week. The label has since become a collaboration with fellow Australian designer Carla Binotto. The craft processes employed in Maison Briz Vegas’ up-cycled fashion collections include original hand block-printing, hand embroidery, quilting and patchwork. Taking an artisanal and slow approach, the designers work to create a hand touched imperfect style in a fashion market flooded with digital printing and fast mass-produced garments. The recycling extends to garment fastenings and embellishments, with discarded jar lids and bottle tops being used as buttons and within embroidery. This process transforms the material and aesthetic value of cheap and generic second-hand clothing and household waste. Maison Briz Vegas demonstrates the potential for craft and design to be an interface for environmental activism within the world of fashion. Presenting garments that are both high-design and thoughtfully recycled in a significant fashion context, such as Paris Fashion Week, Maison Briz Vegas has been able to engage a high-profile luxury fashion audience which has not traditionally considered sustainable or eco practices as relevant or desirable in themselves. The designers are studying how to apply their production model on a greater scale in order to fill commercial orders and reach a wider audience whilst maintaining the element of bespoke, limited edition, and slow hand-craft within their work.

CoRE : a context-aware relation extraction method for relation completion

We identify relation completion (RC) as one recurring problem that is central to the success of novel big data applications such as Entity Reconstruction and Data Enrichment. Given a semantic relation, RC attempts at linking entity pairs between two entity lists under the relation. To accomplish the RC goals, we propose to formulate search queries for each query entity α based on some auxiliary information, so that to detect its target entity β from the set of retrieved documents. For instance, a pattern-based method (PaRE) uses extracted patterns as the auxiliary information in formulating search queries. However, high-quality patterns may decrease the probability of finding suitable target entities. As an alternative, we propose CoRE method that uses context terms learned surrounding the expression of a relation as the auxiliary information in formulating queries. The experimental results based on several real-world web data collections demonstrate that CoRE reaches a much higher accuracy than PaRE for the purpose of RC.

MYB transcription factors that colour our fruit

Anthocyanin concentration is a primary determinant of plant colour. Fruit anthocyanin biosynthesis is controlled by a distinct clade of R2R3 MYB transcription factors. In apple, three recent papers describe the discovery of MYB genes activating skin, flesh and foliage anthocyanic colour. These findings lead the way to new approaches in the breeding and biotechnological development of fruit with new colour patterns.

High temperature reduces apple fruit colour via modulation of the anthocyanin regulatory complex

The biosynthesis of anthocyanin in many plants is affected by environmental conditions. In apple (Malus×domestica Borkh.), concentrations of fruit anthocyanins are lower under hot climatic conditions. We examined the anthocyanin accumulation in the peel of maturing 'Mondial Gala' and 'Royal Gala' apples, grown in both temperate and hot climates, and using artificial heating of on-tree fruit. Heat caused a dramatic reduction of both peel anthocyanin concentration and transcripts of the genes of the anthocyanin biosynthetic pathway. Heating fruit rapidly reduced expression of the R2R3 MYB transcription factor (MYB10) responsible for coordinative regulation for red skin colour, as well as expression of other genes in the transcriptional activation complex. A single night of low temperatures is sufficient to elicit a large increase in transcription of MYB10 and consequently the biosynthetic pathway. Candidate genes that can repress anthocyanin biosynthesis did not appear to be responsible for reductions in anthocyanin content. We propose that temperature-induced regulation of anthocyanin biosynthesis is primarily caused by altered transcript levels of the activating anthocyanin regulatory complex.

Facilitating query decomposition in query language modeling by association rule mining using multiple sliding windows

This paper presents a novel framework to further advance the recent trend of using query decomposition and high-order term relationships in query language modeling, which takes into account terms implicitly associated with different subsets of query terms. Existing approaches, most remarkably the language model based on the Information Flow method are however unable to capture multiple levels of associations and also suffer from a high computational overhead. In this paper, we propose to compute association rules from pseudo feedback documents that are segmented into variable length chunks via multiple sliding windows of different sizes. Extensive experiments have been conducted on various TREC collections and our approach significantly outperforms a baseline Query Likelihood language model, the Relevance Model and the Information Flow model.

Measurement of general and specific approaches to physical activity parenting : a systematic review

Background Parents play a significant role in shaping youth physical activity (PA). However, interventions targeting PA parenting have been ineffective. Methodological inconsistencies related to the measurement of parental influences may be a contributing factor. The purpose of this article is to review the extant peer-reviewed literature related to the measurement of general and specific parental influences on youth PA. Methods A systematic review of studies measuring constructs of PA parenting was conducted. Computerized searches were completed using PubMed, MEDLINE, Academic Search Premier, SPORTDiscus, and PsycINFO. Reference lists of the identified articles were manually reviewed as well as the authors' personal collections. Articles were selected on the basis of strict inclusion criteria and details regarding the measurement protocols were extracted. A total of 117 articles met the inclusionary criteria. Methodological articles that evaluated the validity and reliability of PA parenting measures (n=10) were reviewed separately from parental influence articles (n=107). Results A significant percentage of studies used measures with indeterminate validity and reliability. A significant percentage of articles did not provide sample items, describe the response format, or report the possible range of scores. No studies were located that evaluated sensitivity to change. Conclusion The reporting of measurement properties and the use of valid and reliable measurement scales need to be improved considerably.

Top-k retrieval using facility location analysis

The top-k retrieval problem aims to find the optimal set of k documents from a number of relevant documents given the user’s query. The key issue is to balance the relevance and diversity of the top-k search results. In this paper, we address this problem using Facility Location Analysis taken from Operations Research, where the locations of facilities are optimally chosen according to some criteria. We show how this analysis technique is a generalization of state-of-the-art retrieval models for diversification (such as the Modern Portfolio Theory for Information Retrieval), which treat the top-k search results like “obnoxious facilities” that should be dispersed as far as possible from each other. However, Facility Location Analysis suggests that the top-k search results could be treated like “desirable facilities” to be placed as close as possible to their customers. This leads to a new top-k retrieval model where the best representatives of the relevant documents are selected. In a series of experiments conducted on two TREC diversity collections, we show that significant improvements can be made over the current state-of-the-art through this alternative treatment of the top-k retrieval problem.

MTI-MMP expression promotes tumor growth and angiogenesis through an up-regulation of vascular endothelial growth factor expression

Membrane type 1 metalloprotease (MT1-MMP) is a transmembrane metalloprotease that plays a major role in the extracellular matrix remodeling, directly by degrading several of its components and indirectly by activating pro-MMP2. We investigated the effects of MT1-MMP overexpression on in vitro and in vivo properties of human breast adenocarcinoma MCF7 cells, which do not express MT1-MMP or MMP-2. MT1-MMP and MMP-2 cDNAs were either transfected alone or cotransfected. All clones overexpressing MT1-MMP 1) were able to activate endogenous or exogenous pro-MMP-2, 2) displayed an enhanced in vitro invasiveness through matrigel-coated filters independent of MMP-2 transfection, 3) induced the rapid development of highly vascularized tumors when injected subcutanously in nude mice, and 4) promoted blood vessels sprouting in the rat aortic ring assay. These effects were observed in all clones overexpressing MT1-MMP regardless of MMP-2 expression levels, suggesting that the production of MMP-2 by tumor cells themselves does not play a critical role in these events. The angiogenic phenotype of MT1-MMP-producing cells was associated with an up-regulation of VEGF expression. These results emphasize the importance of MT1-MMP during tumor angiogenesis and open new opportunities for the development of antiangiogenic strategies combining inhibitors of MT1-MMP and VEGF antagonists. - Sounni, N. E., Devy, L., Hajitou, A., Frankenne, F., Munaut, C., Gilles, C., Deroanne, C., Thompson, E. W., Foidart, J. M., Noel, A. MT1-MMP expression promotes tumor growth and angiogenesis through an up-regulation of vascular endothelial growth factor expression.

Lithium release from ß-tricalcium phosphate inducing cementogenic and osteogenic differentiation for both hPDLCs and hBMSCs

It is accepted that the accelerated differentiation of tissue cells on bioactive materials is of great importance to regenerate the lost tissues. It was previously reported that lithium (Li) ions could enhance the in vitro proliferation and differentiation of retinoblastoma cells and endometrium epithelia by activating the Wnt canonical signalling pathway. It is interesting to incorporate Li ions into bioactive ceramics, such as β-tricalcium phosphate (Li-β-TCP), in order to stimulate both osteogenic and cementogenic differentiation of different stem cells for the regeneration of bone/periodontal tissues. Therefore, the aim of this study was to investigate the interactions of human periodontal ligament cells (hPDLCs) and human bone marrow stromal cells (hBMSCs) with Li-β-TCP bioceramic bulks and their ionic extracts, and further explore the osteogenic and cementogenic stimulation of Li-β-TCP bioceramics and the possible molecular mechanisms. The results showed that Li-β-TCP bioceramic disks supported the cell attachment and proliferation, and significantly enhanced bone/cementum-related gene expression, Wnt canonical signalling pathway activation for both hPDLCs and hBMSCs, compared to conventional β-TCP bioceramic disks without Li. The release of Li from Li-β-TCP powders could significantly promote the bone/cementum-related gene expression for both hPDLCs and hBMSCs compared to pure β-TCP extracts without Li release. Our results suggest that the combination of Li with β-TCP bioceramics may be a promising method to enhance bone/cementum regeneration as Li-β-TCP possesses excellent in vitro osteogenic and cementogenic stimulation properties by inducing bone/cementum-related gene expression in both hPDLCs and hBMSCs.

Association of MMP-2 activation potential with metastatic progression in human breast cancer cell lines independent of MMP-2 production

Background: Expression of matrix metalloproteinase-2 (MMP-2), the 72-kd type IV collagenase/gelatinase, by cancer cells has been implicated in metastasis through cancer cell invasion of basement membranes mediated by degradation of collagen IV. However, the abundance of this latent proenzyme in normal tissues and fluids suggests that MMP-2 proenzyme utilization is limited by its physiological activation rather than expression alone. We previously reported activation of this proenzyme by normal and malignant fibroblastoid cells cultured on collagen I (vitrogen) gels. Purpose: Our purposes in this study were 1) to determine whether MMP-2 activation is restricted to the more invasive human breast cancer cell lines and 2) to localize the activating mechanism. Methods: Zymography was used to monitor MMP-2 activation through detection of latent MMP-2 (72 kd) and mature species of smaller molecular weight (59 or 62 kd). Human breast cancer cell lines cultured on plastic, vitrogen, and other matrices were thus screened for MMP- 2 activation. Collagen I-cultured cells were exposed to cycloheximide, a protein synthesis inhibitor, or to protease inhibitors to determine the nature of the MMP-2-activating mechanism. Triton X-114 (TX-114) detergent extracts from cells cultured on collagen I or plastic were incubated with latent MMP-2 and analyzed by zymography to localize the MMP-2 activator. Results: MMP-2 activation was only induced by collagen I culture in the more aggressive, highly invasive estrogen receptor-negative, vimentin-positive human breast cancer cell lines (Hs578T, MDA-MB-436, BT549, MDA-MB-231, MDA- MB-435, MCF-7(ADR)) and was independent of MMP-2 production. MMP-2 activation was detected in cells cultured on collagen I gels but not in those cultured on gelatin gels, Matrigel, or thin layers of collagen I or IV, gelatin, or fibronectin. Collagen-induced activation was specific for the enzyme species MMP-2, since MMP-9, the 92-kd type IV collagenase/gelatinase, was not activatable under similar conditions. MMP-2 activation was inhibited by cycloheximide and was sensitive to a metalloproteinase inhibitor but not to aspartyl, serine, or cysteinyl protease inhibitors. MMP-2 activation was detected in the hydrophobic, plasma membrane-enriched, TX-114 extracts from invasive collagen I-cultured cells. Conclusion: Collagen I-induced MMP-2 activation is restricted to highly invasive estrogen receptor-negative, vimentin-positive human breast cancer cell lines, is independent of MMP-2 production, and is associated with metastatic potential. Our findings are consistent with plasma membrane localization of the activator. Implications: The MMP-2 activation mechanism may represent a new target for diagnosis, prognosis, and treatment of human breast cancer.

Report on INEX 2008

INEX investigates focused retrieval from structured documents by providing large test collections of structured documents, uniform evaluation measures, and a forum for organizations to compare their results. This paper reports on the INEX 2008 evaluation campaign, which consisted of a wide range of tracks: Ad hoc, Book, Efficiency, Entity Ranking, Interactive, QA, Link the Wiki, and XML Mining.

Combined analysis of categorical and numerical descriptors of Australian groundnut accessions using nonlinear principal component analysis

For users of germplasm collections, the purpose of measuring characterization and evaluation descriptors, and subsequently using statistical methodology to summarize the data, is not only to interpret the relationships between the descriptors, but also to characterize the differences and similarities between accessions in relation to their phenotypic variability for each of the measured descriptors. The set of descriptors for the accessions of most germplasm collections consists of both numerical and categorical descriptors. This poses problems for a combined analysis of all descriptors because few statistical techniques deal with mixtures of measurement types. In this article, nonlinear principal component analysis was used to analyze the descriptors of the accessions in the Australian groundnut collection. It was demonstrated that the nonlinear variant of ordinary principal component analysis is an appropriate analytical tool because subspecies and botanical varieties could be identified on the basis of the analysis and characterized in terms of all descriptors. Moreover, outlying accessions could be easily spotted and their characteristics established. The statistical results and their interpretations provide users with a more efficient way to identify accessions of potential relevance for their plant improvement programs and encourage and improve the usefulness and utilization of germplasm collections.

The analysis of large scale data taken from the world groundnut (Arachis hypogaea L.) germplasm collection I. Two-way quantitative data

Data associated with germplasm collections are typically large and multivariate with a considerable number of descriptors measured on each of many accessions. Pattern analysis methods of clustering and ordination have been identified as techniques for statistically evaluating the available diversity in germplasm data. While used in many studies, the approaches have not dealt explicitly with the computational consequences of large data sets (i.e. greater than 5000 accessions). To consider the application of these techniques to germplasm evaluation data, 11328 accessions of groundnut (Arachis hypogaea L) from the International Research Institute for the Semi-Arid Tropics, Andhra Pradesh, India were examined. Data for nine quantitative descriptors measured in the rainy and post-rainy growing seasons were used. The ordination technique of principal component analysis was used to reduce the dimensionality of the germplasm data. The identification of phenotypically similar groups of accessions within large scale data via the computationally intensive hierarchical clustering techniques was not feasible and non-hierarchical techniques had to be used. Finite mixture models that maximise the likelihood of an accession belonging to a cluster were used to cluster the accessions in this collection. The patterns of response for the different growing seasons were found to be highly correlated. However, in relating the results to passport and other characterisation and evaluation descriptors, the observed patterns did not appear to be related to taxonomy or any other well known characteristics of groundnut.

The analysis of large scale data taken from the world groundnut (Arachis hypogaea L.) germplasm collection. II. Two-way data with mixed data types

As a sequel to a paper that dealt with the analysis of two-way quantitative data in large germplasm collections, this paper presents analytical methods appropriate for two-way data matrices consisting of mixed data types, namely, ordered multicategory and quantitative data types. While various pattern analysis techniques have been identified as suitable for analysis of the mixed data types which occur in germplasm collections, the clustering and ordination methods used often can not deal explicitly with the computational consequences of large data sets (i.e. greater than 5000 accessions) with incomplete information. However, it is shown that the ordination technique of principal component analysis and the mixture maximum likelihood method of clustering can be employed to achieve such analyses. Germplasm evaluation data for 11436 accessions of groundnut (Arachis hypogaea L.) from the International Research Institute of the Semi-Arid Tropics, Andhra Pradesh, India were examined. Data for nine quantitative descriptors measured in the post-rainy season and five ordered multicategory descriptors were used. Pattern analysis results generally indicated that the accessions could be distinguished into four regions along the continuum of growth habit (or plant erectness). Interpretation of accession membership in these regions was found to be consistent with taxonomic information, such as subspecies. Each growth habit region contained accessions from three of the most common groundnut botanical varieties. This implies that within each of the habit types there is the full range of expression for the other descriptors used in the analysis. Using these types of insights, the patterns of variability in germplasm collections can provide scientists with valuable information for their plant improvement programs.

Mixed data types and the use of pattern analysis on the Australian groundnut germplasm data

Data in germplasm collections contain a mixture of data types; binary, multistate and quantitative. Given the multivariate nature of these data, the pattern analysis methods of classification and ordination have been identified as suitable techniques for statistically evaluating the available diversity. The proximity (or resemblance) measure, which is in part the basis of the complementary nature of classification and ordination techniques, is often specific to particular data types. The use of a combined resemblance matrix has an advantage over data type specific proximity measures. This measure accommodates the different data types without manipulating them to be of a specific type. Descriptors are partitioned into their data types and an appropriate proximity measure is used on each. The separate proximity matrices, after range standardisation, are added as a weighted average and the combined resemblance matrix is then used for classification and ordination. Germplasm evaluation data for 831 accessions of groundnut (Arachis hypogaea L.) from the Australian Tropical Field Crops Genetic Resource Centre, Biloela, Queensland were examined. Data for four binary, five ordered multistate and seven quantitative descriptors have been documented. The interpretative value of different weightings - equal and unequal weighting of data types to obtain a combined resemblance matrix - was investigated by using principal co-ordinate analysis (ordination) and hierarchical cluster analysis. Equal weighting of data types was found to be more valuable for these data as the results provided a greater insight into the patterns of variability available in the Australian groundnut germplasm collection. The complementary nature of pattern analysis techniques enables plant breeders to identify relevant accessions in relation to the descriptors which distinguish amongst them. This additional information may provide plant breeders with a more defined entry point into the germplasm collection for identifying sources of variability for their plant improvement program, thus improving the utilisation of germplasm resources.