Silk purse, sow’s ear : transforming second-Hand clothing into luxury fashion through craft practice

There is more apparel being created than ever before in history. The unsustainable production of materials and the clothing and textile waste that contributes annually to landfill, an estimated 500 000 tonnes of clothing per year in the UK (Gray, 2012) are significant issues inspiring the practice of Australian fashion designers, Carla van Lunn and Carla Binotto. While the contemporary fashion industry is built upon a production and consumption model that is younger than the industrial revolution, the traditions of costume, craft, and bodily adornment are ancient practices. Binotto and van Lunn believe that the potential for sustainable fashion practice lies outside the current industrial manufacturing model. This case study will discuss their fashion label, Maison Briz Vegas, and examine how recycling and traditional craft practices can be used to address the problem of clothing waste and offer an alternative idea of value in fashion and materials, addressing the indicative conference theme, Craft as Sustainability Activism in Practice. “Maison Briz Vegas”, a play on the notion of French luxury and the designers’ new world and sub-tropical home town, Brisbane, is an experimental and craft-based fashion label that uses second-hand cotton T-shirts and wool sweaters as primary materials to create designer fashion. The first collection, titled “The Wasteland”, was conceived and created in Paris in 2011, where designer Carla van Lunn had been living and working for several years. The collection was inspired by the precariousness of the global economy and concerns about climate change. The mountains of discarded clothing found at flea markets provided a textile resource from which van Lunn created a recycled hand-crafted fashion collection with an activist message and was shown to buyers and press during Paris Fashion Week. The label has since become a collaboration with fellow Australian designer Carla Binotto. The craft processes employed in Maison Briz Vegas’ up-cycled fashion collections include original hand block-printing, hand embroidery, quilting and patchwork. Taking an artisanal and slow approach, the designers work to create a hand touched imperfect style in a fashion market flooded with digital printing and fast mass-produced garments. The recycling extends to garment fastenings and embellishments, with discarded jar lids and bottle tops being used as buttons and within embroidery. This process transforms the material and aesthetic value of cheap and generic second-hand clothing and household waste. Maison Briz Vegas demonstrates the potential for craft and design to be an interface for environmental activism within the world of fashion. Presenting garments that are both high-design and thoughtfully recycled in a significant fashion context, such as Paris Fashion Week, Maison Briz Vegas has been able to engage a high-profile luxury fashion audience which has not traditionally considered sustainable or eco practices as relevant or desirable in themselves. The designers are studying how to apply their production model on a greater scale in order to fill commercial orders and reach a wider audience whilst maintaining the element of bespoke, limited edition, and slow hand-craft within their work.

A copia-like element in Pisum demonstrates the uses of dispersed repeated sequences in genetic analysis

A DNA sequence between two legumin genes in Pisum is a member of the copia-like class of retrotransposons and represents one member of a polymorphic and heterogeneous dispersed repeated sequence family in Pisum. This sequence can be exploited in genetic studies either by RFLP analysis where several markers can be scored together, or the segregation of individual elements can be followed after PCR amplification of specific members.

Chalcophile element geochemistry of the Boggy Plain Zoned Pluton, southeastern Australia : a S-saturated barren compositionally diverse magma

The behavior of the platinum group elements (PGE) and Re in felsic magmas is poorly understood due to scarcity of data. We report the concentrations of Ni, Cu, Re, and PGE in the compositionally diverse Boggy Plain zoned pluton (BPZP), which shows a variation of rock type from gabbro through granodiorite and granite to aplite with a SiO2 range from 52 to 74 wt %. In addition, major silicate and oxide minerals were analyzed for Ni, Cu, and Re, and a systematic sulfide study was carried out to investigate the role of silicate, oxide, and sulfide minerals on chalcophile element geochemistry of the BPZP. Mass balance calculation shows that the whole rock Cu budget hosted by silicate and oxide minerals is <13 wt % and that Cu is dominantly located in sulfide phases, whereas most of the whole rock Ni budget (>70 wt %) is held in major silicate and oxide minerals. Rhenium is dominantly hosted by magnetite and ilmenite. Ovoid-shaped sulfide blebs occur at the boundary between pyroxene phenocrysts and neighboring interstitial phases or within interstitial minerals in the gabbro and the granodiorite. The blebs are composed of pyrrhotite, pyrite, chalcopyrite, and S-bearing Fe-oxide, which contain total trace metals (Co, Ni, Cu, Ag, Pb) up to ~16 wt %. The mineral assemblage, occurrence, shape, and composition of the sulfide blebs are a typical of magmatic sulfide. PGE concentrations in the BPZP vary by more than two orders of magnitude from gabbro (2.7–7.8 ppb Pd, 0.025–0.116 ppb Ir) to aplite (0.05 ppb Pd, 0.001 ppb Ir). Nickel, Cu, Re, and PGE concentrations are positively correlated with MgO in all the rock types although there is a clear discontinuity between the granodiorite and the granite in the trends for Ni, Rh, and Ir when plotted against MgO. Cu/Pd values gradually increase from 6,100 to 52,600 as the MgO content decreases. The sulfide petrology and chalcophile element geochemistry of the BPZP show that sulfide saturation occurred in the late gabbroic stage of magma differentiation. Segregation and distribution of these sulfide blebs controlled Cu and PGE variations within the BPZP rocks although the magma of each rock type may have experienced a different magma evolution history in terms of crustal assimilation and crystal fractionation. The sulfide melt locked in the cumulate rocks must have sequestered a significant portion of the chalcophile elements, which restricted the availability of these metals to magmatic-hydrothermal ore fluids. Therefore, we suggest that the roof rocks that overlay the BPZP were not prospective for magmatic-hydrothermal Cu, Au, or Cu–Au deposits.

Identification of a cis-regulatory element by transient analysis of co-ordinately regulated genes

Background Transcription factors (TFs) co-ordinately regulate target genes that are dispersed throughout the genome. This co-ordinate regulation is achieved, in part, through the interaction of transcription factors with conserved cis-regulatory motifs that are in close proximity to the target genes. While much is known about the families of transcription factors that regulate gene expression in plants, there are few well characterised cis-regulatory motifs. In Arabidopsis, over-expression of the MYB transcription factor PAP1 (PRODUCTION OF ANTHOCYANIN PIGMENT 1) leads to transgenic plants with elevated anthocyanin levels due to the co-ordinated up-regulation of genes in the anthocyanin biosynthetic pathway. In addition to the anthocyanin biosynthetic genes, there are a number of un-associated genes that also change in expression level. This may be a direct or indirect consequence of the over-expression of PAP1. Results Oligo array analysis of PAP1 over-expression Arabidopsis plants identified genes co-ordinately up-regulated in response to the elevated expression of this transcription factor. Transient assays on the promoter regions of 33 of these up-regulated genes identified eight promoter fragments that were transactivated by PAP1. Bioinformatic analysis on these promoters revealed a common cis-regulatory motif that we showed is required for PAP1 dependent transactivation. Conclusion Co-ordinated gene regulation by individual transcription factors is a complex collection of both direct and indirect effects. Transient transactivation assays provide a rapid method to identify direct target genes from indirect target genes. Bioinformatic analysis of the promoters of these direct target genes is able to locate motifs that are common to this sub-set of promoters, which is impossible to identify with the larger set of direct and indirect target genes. While this type of analysis does not prove a direct interaction between protein and DNA, it does provide a tool to characterise cis-regulatory sequences that are necessary for transcription activation in a complex list of co-ordinately regulated genes.

The binding of nuclear factors to the as-1 element in the CaMV 35S promoter is affected by cytosine methylation in vitro

Transcriptional gene silencing (TCS) is often associated with an increased level of cytosine methylation in the affected promoters. The effect of methylation of the cauliflower mosaic virus (CaMV) 35S promoter sequence on its binding to factors present in the nuclei was analyzed by electrophoretic mobility shift assays using extracts of petunia flowers. Specific DNA-protein interactions were detected in the region of the CaMV 35S promoter that contains the as-1 element and the region between -345 and -208. The binding of protein factor(s) to the as-1 element was influenced by cytosine methylation, whereas the binding to the region between -345 and -208 was unaffected. The results suggest that cytosine methylation of the as-1 element potentially affects the activity of the CaMV 35S promoter. © Georg Thieme Verlag KG Stuttgart.

Design of a robust grid interface system for PMSG-based wind turbine generators

A robust and reliable grid power interface system for wind turbines using a permanent-magnet synchronous generator (PMSG) is proposed in this paper, where an integration of a generator-side three-switch buck-type rectifier and a grid-side Z-source inverter is employed as a bridge between the generator and the grid. The modulation strategy for the proposed topology is developed from space-vector modulation and Z-source network operation principles. Two PMSG control methods, namely, unity-power-factor control and rotor-flux-orientation control (Id = 0), are studied to establish an optimized control scheme for the generator-side three-switch buck-type rectifier. The system control scheme decouples active- and reactive-power control through voltage-oriented control and optimizes PMSG control for the grid- and generator-side converters independently. Maximum power point tracking is implemented by adjusting the shoot-through duty cycles of the Z-source network. The design considerations of the passive components are also provided. The performances and practicalities of the designed architecture have been verified by simulations and experiments.

Catchment-specific element signatures in estuarine crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus) from the Alligator Rivers Region, northern Australia

The concentrations of Na, K, Ca, Mg, Ba, Sr, Fe, Al, Mn, Zn, Pb, Cu, Ni, Cr, Co, Se, U and Ti were determined in the osteoderms and/or flesh of estuarine crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus) captured in three adjacent catchments within the Alligator Rivers Region (ARR) of northern Australia. Results from multivariate analysis of variance showed that when all metals were considered simultaneously, catchment effects were significant (P≤0.05). Despite considerable within-catchment variability, linear discriminant analysis (LDA) showed that differences in elemental signatures in the osteoderms and/or flesh of C. porosus amongst the catchments were sufficient to classify individuals accurately to their catchment of occurrence. Using cross-validation, the accuracy of classifying a crocodile to its catchment of occurrence was 76% for osteoderms and 60% for flesh. These data suggest that osteoderms provide better predictive accuracy than flesh for discriminating crocodiles amongst catchments. There was no advantage in combining the osteoderm and flesh results to increase the accuracy of classification (i.e. 67%). Based on the discriminant function coefficients for the osteoderm data, Ca, Co, Mg and U were the most important elements for discriminating amongst the three catchments. For flesh data, Ca, K, Mg, Na, Ni and Pb were the most important metals for discriminating amongst the catchments. Reasons for differences in the elemental signatures of crocodiles between catchments are generally not interpretable, due to limited data on surface water and sediment chemistry of the catchments or chemical composition of dietary items of C. porosus. From a wildlife management perspective, the provenance or source catchment(s) of 'problem' crocodiles captured at settlements or recreational areas along the ARR coastline may be established using catchment-specific elemental signatures. If the incidence of problem crocodiles can be reduced in settled or recreational areas by effective management at their source, then public safety concerns about these predators may be moderated, as well as the cost of their capture and removal. Copyright © 2002 Elsevier Science B.V.

Experimental and finite element analysis to identify the source of vibration of a coach

This paper presents an investigation on the cause of severe vibration problem of a coach with four-cylinder engine running at an idle state using vibration and impact hammer modal experiments to obtain the main vibration frequency components and the natural characteristics of the coach. The vibration results indicate that the main vibration component comes from the vibration transmitted from the engine to the chassis frame, which is closely related with the engine idle speed. Based on structural simulation analysis of the coach’s chassis frame and comparison with modal testing, the coach severe vibration problem was due to coupling resonance between the engine idle frequency and the fourth natural frequency of the chassis frame. The solution to eliminate the vibration problem is provided by changing the local structure stiffness of the chassis frame. The contribution of this paper lies in providing a solution to solve similar problems.

Finite element analysis of the in-plane shear behaviour of masonry panels confined with reinforced grouted cores

A combined experimental and numerical program was conducted to study the in-plane shear behaviour of hollow concrete masonry panels containing reinforced grout cores. This paper is focused on the numerical program. A two dimensional macromodelling strategy was used to simulate the behaviour of the confined masonry (CM) shear panels. Both the unreinforced masonry and the confining element were modelled using macromasonry properties and the steel reinforcement was modelled as an embedded truss element located within the grout using perfectly bonded constraint. The FE model reproduced key behaviours observed in the experiments, including the shear strength, the deformation and the crack patterns of the unconfined and confined masonry panels. The predictions of the validated model were used to evaluate the existing in-plane shear expressions available in the national masonry standards and research publications.

Interface control of surface photochemical reactivity in ultrathin epitaxial ferroelectric films

Asymmetrical electrical boundary conditions in (001)-oriented Pb(Zr 0.2TiO0.8)O3 (PZT) epitaxial ultrathin ferroelectric films are exploited to control surface photochemical reactivity determined by the sign of the surface polarization charge. It is shown that the preferential orientation of polarization in the as-grown PZT layer can be manipulated by choosing an appropriate type of bottom electrode material. PZT films deposited on the SrRuO3 electrodes exhibit preferential upward polarization (C) whilst the same films grown on the (La,Sr)CoO 3-electrodes are polarized downward (C-). Photochemical activity of the PZT surfaces with different surface polarization charges has been tested by studying deposition of silver nanoparticles from AgNO3 solution under UV irradiation. PZT surfaces with preferential C orientation possess a more active surface for metal reduction than their C- counterparts, evidenced by large differences in the concentration of deposited silver nanoparticles. This effect is attributed to band bending at the bottom interface which varies depending on the difference in work functions of PZT and electrode materials.

Ion-acoustic surface waves on a dielectric-dusty plasma interface

The theory of ion-acoustic surface wave propagation on the interface between a dusty plasma and a dielectric is presented. Both the constant and variable dust-charge cases are considered. It is found that massive negatively charged dust grains can significantly affect the propagation and damping of the surface waves. Application of the results to surface-wave generated plasmas is discussed. © 1998 IEEE.

Nonlinear effects of ionization on surface waves on a plasma-metal interface

Nonlinear effects associated with density modulation caused by wave-induced ionization in magnetized plasmas were studied. The ionizing surface waves propagate at the interface between the plasma and a metallic surface. It is shown that the ionization nonlinearity can be important for typical experimental conditions.

Airport security screeners expertise and implications for interface design

This paper describes research investigating expertise and the types of knowledge used by airport security screeners. It applies a multi method approach incorporating eye tracking, concurrent verbal protocol and interviews. Results show that novice and expert security screeners primarily access perceptual knowledge and experience little difficulty during routine situations. During non-routine situations however, experience was found to be a determining factor for effective interactions and problem solving. Experts were found to use strategic knowledge and demonstrated structured use of interface functions integrated into efficient problem solving sequences. Comparatively, novices experienced more knowledge limitations and uncertainty resulting in interaction breakdowns. These breakdowns were characterised by trial and error interaction sequences. This research suggests that the quality of knowledge security screeners have access to has implications on visual and physical interface interactions and their integration into problem solving sequences. Implications and recommendations for the design of interfaces used in the airport security screening context are discussed. The motivations of recommendations are to improve the integration of interactions into problem solving sequences, encourage development of problem scheme knowledge and to support the skills and knowledge of the personnel that interact with security screening systems.

Nutrient element-based bioceramic coatings on titanium alloy stimulating osteogenesis by inducing beneficial osteoimmmunomodulation

A paradigm shift has taken place in which bone implant materials has gone from being relatively inert to having immunomodulatory properties, indicating the importance of immune response when these materials interact with the host tissues. It has therefore become important to endow the implant materials with immunomodulatory properties favouring osteogenesis and osseointegration. Strontium, zinc and silicon are bioactive elements that have important roles in bone metabolism and that also elicit significant immune responses. In this study, Sr-, Zn- and Si-containing bioactive Sr2ZnSi2O7 (SZS) ceramic coatings on Ti–6Al–4V were successfully prepared by a plasma-spray coating method. The SZS coatings exhibited slow release of the bioactive ions with significantly higher bonding strength than hydroxyapatite (HA) coatings. SZS-coated Ti–6Al–4V elicited significant effects on the immune cells, inhibiting the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines and fibrosis-enhancing factors, while upregulating the expression of osteogenic factors of macrophages; moreover, it could also inhibit the osteoclastic activities. The RANKL/RANK pathway, which enhances osteoclastogenesis, was inhibited by the SZS coatings, whereas the osteogenic differentiation of bone marrow mesenchymal stromal cells (BMSCs) was significantly enhanced by the SZS coatings/macrophages conditioned medium, probably via the activation of BMP2 pathway. SZS coatings are, therefore, a promising material for orthopaedic applications, and the strategy of manipulating the immune response by a combination of bioactive elements with controlled release has the potential to endow biomaterials with beneficial immunomodulatory properties.

Heating mechanism of self-interaction of surface polaritons at n-type semiconductor-metal interface

The influence of electron heating in the high-frequency surface polariton (SP) field on the dispersion properties of the SPs considered is investigated. High frequency SPs propagate at the interface between an n-type semiconductor with finite electron pressure, and a metal. The nonlinear dispersion relation for the SPs is derived and investigated.