Uncertainty and innovation in fashion design

Generally speaking, psychologists have suggested three traditional views of how people cope with uncertainty. They are the certainty maximiser, the intuitive statistician-economist and the knowledge seeker (Smithson, 2008). In times of uncertainty, such as the recent global financial crisis, these coping methods often result in innovation in industry. Richards (2003) identifies innovation as different from creativity in that innovation aims to transform and implement rather than simply explore and invent. An examination of the work of iconic fashion designers, through case study and situational analysis, reveals that coping with uncertainty manifests itself in ways that have resulted in innovations in design, marketing methods, production and consumption. In relation to contemporary fashion, where many garments look the same in style, colour, cut and fit (Finn, 2008), the concept of innovation is an important one. This paper explores the role of uncertainty as a driver of innovation in fashion design. A key aspect of seeking knowledge, as a mechanism to cope with this uncertainty, is a return to basics. This is a problem for contemporary fashion designers who are no longer necessarily makers and therefore do not engage with the basic materials and methods of garment construction. In many cases design in fashion has become digital, communicated to an unseen, unknown production team via scanned image and specification alone. The disconnection between the design and the making of garments, as a result of decades of off-shore manufacturing, has limited the opportunity for this return to basics. The authors argue that the role of the fashion designer has become about the final product and as a result there is a lack of innovation in the process of making: in the form, fit and function of fashion garments. They propose that ‘knowledge seeking’ as a result of uncertainty in the fashion industry, in particular through re-examination of the methods of making, could hold the key to a new era of innovation in fashion design.

Alternative futures of globalisation a socio-ecological study of the world social forum process

Inspired by the initial World Social Forum in Porto Alegre Brazil, over the past decade over 200 local and regional social forums have been held, on five continents. This study has examined the nature of this broader social forum process, in particular as an aspect of the movement for 'another globalisation'. I discuss both the discourses for 'another world', as well as the development of an Alternative Globalisation Movement. As an action research study, the research took place within a variety of groups and networks. The thesis provides six accounts of groups and people striving and struggling for 'another world'. I provide a macro account of the invention and innovation of the World Social Forum. A grassroots film-makers collective provides a window into media. A local social forum opens up the radical diversity of actors. An activist exchange circle sheds light on strategic aspects of alternative globalisation. An educational initiative provides a window into transformations in pedagogy. And a situational account (of the G20 meeting in Melbourne in 2006) provides an overview of the variety of metanetworks that converge to voice demands for global justice and sustainability. In particular, this study has sought to shed light on how, within this process, groups and communities develop 'agency', a capacity to respond to the global challenges they / we face. And as part of this question, I have also explored how alternatives futures are developed and conceived, with a re-cognition of the importance of histories and geo-political (or 'eco-political') structures as contexts. I argue the World Social Forum Process is prefigurative, as an interactional process where many social alternatives are conceived, supported, developed and innovated into the world. And I argue this innovation process is meta-formative, where convergences of diverse actors comprise ‘social ecologies of alternatives’ which lead to opportunities for dynamic collaboration and partnership.

Overview of mesenchymal stem cells

Stem cells are unprogrammed cells which possess plasticity and self renewal capability. The term of stem cell was first used to describe cells committed to give rise to germline cells, and to describe proposed progenitor cells of the blood system [1]. A unique feature of stem cell is to remain quiescent in vivo in an uncommitted state. They serve as reservoir or natural support system to replenish cells lost due to disease, injury or aging. When triggered by appropriate signals these cells divide and may become specialized, committed cells; however being able to control this differentiation process still remains one of the biggest challenge in stem cell research [2]. The cell division of stem cells is a distinct aspect of their biology, since this division may be either symmetric or asymmetric. Symmetric division takes place when the stem cells divides and forms two new daughter cells. Asymmetric division is thought to take place only under certain conditions where stem cells divides and gives rise to a daughter cell which remains primitive and does not proliferate, and one committed progenitor cell, which heads down a path of differentiation. Asymmetric division of stem cells helps reparative process, and also ensures that the stem cells pool does not decrease, whereas symmetric division is responsible for stem cells undergoing self renewal and proliferation. The factors which prompt the stem cells to undergo asymmetric division are, however, not well understood, but it is clear that the delicate balance between the self renewal and differentiation is what maintains tissue homeostasis.

Technical report : acoustic analysis of the natural environment

This technical report is concerned with one aspect of environmental monitoring—the detection and analysis of acoustic events in sound recordings of the environment. Sound recordings offer ecologists the advantage of cheaper and increased sampling but make available so much data that automated analysis becomes essential. The report describes a number of tools for automated analysis of recordings, including noise removal from spectrograms, acoustic event detection, event pattern recognition, spectral peak tracking, syntactic pattern recognition applied to call syllables, and oscillation detection. These algorithms are applied to a number of animal call recognition tasks, chosen because they illustrate quite different modes of analysis: (1) the detection of diffuse events caused by wind and rain, which are frequent contaminants of recordings of the terrestrial environment; (2) the detection of bird and calls; and (3) the preparation of acoustic maps for whole ecosystem analysis. This last task utilises the temporal distribution of events over a daily, monthly or yearly cycle.

Shear tests of Litesteel beams with web openings

This paper presents the details of experimental studies on the shear strength of a recently developed, cold-formed steel beam known as LiteSteel Beam (LSB) with web openings. The innovative LSB sections have the beneficial characteristics of torsionally rigid closed rectangular flanges combined with economical fabrication processes from a single strip of high strength steel. They combine the stability of hot-rolled steel sections with the high strength to weight ratio of conventional cold-formed steel sections. The LSB sections are commonly used as flexural members in the building industry. Current practice in flooring systems is to include openings in the web element of floor joists or bearers so that building services can be located within them. Shear behaviour of LSBs with web openings is more complicated while their shear strengths are considerably reduced by the presence of web openings. However, limited research has been undertaken on the shear behaviour and strength of LSBs with web openings. Therefore a detailed experimental study involving 26 shear tests was undertaken to investigate the shear behaviour and strength of different LSB sections. Simply supported test specimens of LSBs with an aspect ratio of 1.5 were loaded at midspan until failure. This paper presents the details of this experimental study and the results. Experimental results showed that the current design rules in cold-formed steel structures design codes (AS/NZS 4600) [1] are very conservative for the shear design of LSBs with web openings. Improved design equations have been proposed for the shear strength of LSBs with web openings based on experimental results from this study.

Pressure, oxygen tension and temperature in the periosteal callus during bone healing - An in vivo study in sheep

Adequate blood supply and sufficient mechanical stability are necessary for timely fracture healing. Damage to vessels impairs blood supply; hindering the transport of oxygen which is an essential metabolite for cells involved in repair. The degree of mechanical stability determines the mechanical conditions in the healing tissues. The mechanical conditions can influence tissue differentiation and may also inhibit revascularization. Knowledge of the actual conditions in a healing fracture in vivo is extremely limited. This study aimed to quantify the pressure, oxygen tension and temperature in the external callus during the early phase of bone healing. Six Merino-mix sheep underwent a tibial osteotomy. The tibia was stabilized with a standard mono-lateral external fixator. A multi-parameter catheter was placed adjacent to the osteotomy gap on the medial aspect of the tibia. Measurements of oxygen tension and temperature were performed for ten days post-op. Measurements of pressure were performed during gait on days three and seven. The ground reaction force and the interfragmentary movements were measured simultaneously. The maximum pressure during gait increased (p=0.028) from three (41.3 [29.2-44.1] mm Hg) to seven days (71.8 [61.8-84.8] mm Hg). During the same interval, there was no change (p=0.92) in the peak ground reaction force or in the interfragmentary movement (compression: p=0.59 and axial rotation: p=0.11). Oxygen tension in the haematoma (74.1 mm Hg [68.6-78.5]) was initially high post-op and decreased steadily over the first five days. The temperature increased over the first four days before reaching a plateau at approximately 38.5 degrees C on day four. This study is the first to report pressure, oxygen tension and temperature in the early callus tissues. The magnitude of pressure increased even though weight bearing and IFM remained unchanged. Oxygen tensions were initially high in the haematoma and fell gradually with a low oxygen environment first established after four to five days. This study illustrates that in bone healing the local environment for cells may not be considered constant with regard to oxygen tension, pressure and temperature.

Australian queer student activists' media representations of queer

Queer student activists are a visible aspect of Australian tertiary communities. Institutionally there are a number of organisations and tools representing and serving gay, lesbian, bisexual, transgender, intersex and ‘otherwise queer identifying’ (GLBTIQ) students. ‘Queer’ is a contentious term with meanings ranging from a complex deconstructive academic theory to a term for ‘gay’. Despite the institutional applications, the definition remains unclear and under debate. In this thesis I examine queer student activists’ production of print media, a previously under-researched area. In queer communities, print media provides crucial grounding for a model of queer. Central to identity formation and activism, this media is a site of textuality for the construction and circulation of discourses of queer student media. Thus, I investigate the various ways Australian queer student activists construct queer, queer identity, and queer activism in their print media. I use discourse analysis, participant observation and semi-structured interviews to enable a thorough investigation of both the process and the products of queer student media. My findings demonstrate that queer student activists’ politics are grounded in a range of ideologies drawing from Marxism, Feminism, Gay Liberation, Anti-assimilation and Queer Theory. Grounded in queer theoretical perspectives of performativity this research makes relatively new links between Queer Theory and Media Studies in its study of the production contexts of queer student media. In doing so, I show how the university context informs student articulations of queer, proving the necessity to locate research within its social-cultural setting. My research reveals that, much like Queer Theory, these representations of queer are rich with paradox. I argue that queer student activists are actually theorising queer. I call for a reconceptualisation of Queer Theory and question the current barriers between who is considered a ‘theorist’ of queer and who is an ‘activist’. If we can think about ‘theory’ as encompassing the work of activists, what implications might this have for politics and analysis?

Team role preference and online role play

Role play approaches have been used in online environments in an effort to create a mix of contested ideas and to promote participant engagement. While it is recognised that there is an aspect of ‘fun’ associated with role play there is a need to understand role assignment more rigorously than simply levels of reported participation and enjoyment. It is the contention of this paper that individuals are unlikely to be able to authentically play a role and, that in fact, there may be little purpose to contrived roles. Additionally, the literature has widely reported that personality factors, such as introversion and extroversion continue to be of significance in the way that individuals contribute in online contexts. The findings in the study reported in this paper confirm that introversion and extroversion do, indeed, play a role in the way individuals contribute in online environments. Thus, this paper argues that an active consideration needs to be given to individuals preferred (or natural) way of working even where use is made of online role play.

Identifying rural disadvantage using a multiday travel diary

This paper identifies transport disadvantage using a 7 day activity-travel diary data from two rural case study areas. A composite participation index (PI) measure was developed for this study based on six indices measuring elements of travel and activity participation. Using the index the paper then goes on to compare these results, with the results obtained from other more traditional indicators used to identify transport disadvantage. These indicators are related to the size of activity space such as unique network distance travelled, number of unique locations visited, activity space area, activity duration, and fullness (shape) of activity spaces. The weaknesses of these indicator based measures are that: firstly, they do not take into account the relativity of the measure between different areas i.e. travel distance in terms of the wider context of available activities within an area; and secondly, these indicators are multi-dimensional and each represents a different qualitative aspect of travel and activity participation. As a result, six individual indices were developed to overcome these problems. These include: participation count index, participation length index, participation area index, participation duration index, participation type index, and participation frequency index. These are then aggregated to assess the relative performance in terms of these different indices and identify the nature of transport disadvantage. GIS was used to visualise individual travel patterns and to derive scores for both the indicator based measures and the index based measures. Factor analysis was conducted to derive weights of the individual indices to form the composite index measure. From this analysis, two intermediate indices were also derived using the underlying factors of the data related to these indices. Using the scores of all these measures, multiple regression analyses were conducted to identify patterns of transport disadvantage.

Sloshing motion of water in a moonpool

This thesis is concerned with the sloshing motion of water in a moonpool. It is a relatively new problem, that is particularly predominant in moonpools with relatively large dimensions. The problem is further complicated by the additional behaviour of vertical oscillation. It is inevitable that large moonpools will be needed as offshore technology advances, therefore making a problem an important one. The research involves two parts, the theoretical and experimental study. The theoretical study consists of idealising the moonpool to a two dimensional system, represented by two surface piercing parallel barriers at a distance 2a apart. The barriers are forced to undergo roll motion which in turn generates waves. These travelling waves are travelling in opposite directions to each other and have the same amplitude and period, and thus can be expressed in terms of a standing wave. This is mathematically achieved by applying the theory of wavemaking, and therefore the wave amplitude at the side wall can be evaluated at near resonant conditions. The experimental study comprises of comparing the results obtained from the tank and moonpool experiments. The rolling motion creates the sloshing waves in both cases, in addition the vertical oscillation in the moonpool is produced by generating waves at one end of the towing tank. Apart from highlighting influencing parameters, the resonant frequencies obtained from these experiments are then compared with the theoretical values. Experiments in demonstrating the effect of increasing damping with the aid of baffles are also conducted. This is an important aspect which is very necessary if operations in launching and retrieving are to be carried out efficiently and safely.

Encryption schemes and key exchange protocols in the certificateless setting

The contributions of this thesis fall into three areas of certificateless cryptography. The first area is encryption, where we propose new constructions for both identity-based and certificateless cryptography. We construct an n-out-of- n group encryption scheme for identity-based cryptography that does not require any special means to generate the keys of the trusted authorities that are participating. We also introduce a new security definition for chosen ciphertext secure multi-key encryption. We prove that our construction is secure as long as at least one authority is uncompromised, and show that the existing constructions for chosen ciphertext security from identity-based encryption also hold in the group encryption case. We then consider certificateless encryption as the special case of 2-out-of-2 group encryption and give constructions for highly efficient certificateless schemes in the standard model. Among these is the first construction of a lattice-based certificateless encryption scheme. Our next contribution is a highly efficient certificateless key encapsulation mechanism (KEM), that we prove secure in the standard model. We introduce a new way of proving the security of certificateless schemes based that are based on identity-based schemes. We leave the identity-based part of the proof intact, and just extend it to cover the part that is introduced by the certificateless scheme. We show that our construction is more efficient than any instanciation of generic constructions for certificateless key encapsulation in the standard model. The third area where the thesis contributes to the advancement of certificateless cryptography is key agreement. Swanson showed that many certificateless key agreement schemes are insecure if considered in a reasonable security model. We propose the first provably secure certificateless key agreement schemes in the strongest model for certificateless key agreement. We extend Swanson's definition for certificateless key agreement and give more power to the adversary. Our new schemes are secure as long as each party has at least one uncompromised secret. Our first construction is in the random oracle model and gives the adversary slightly more capabilities than our second construction in the standard model. Interestingly, our standard model construction is as efficient as the random oracle model construction.

Intrusion detection framework for encrypted networks

Network-based Intrusion Detection Systems (NIDSs) monitor network traffic for signs of malicious activities that have the potential to disrupt entire network infrastructures and services. NIDS can only operate when the network traffic is available and can be extracted for analysis. However, with the growing use of encrypted networks such as Virtual Private Networks (VPNs) that encrypt and conceal network traffic, a traditional NIDS can no longer access network traffic for analysis. The goal of this research is to address this problem by proposing a detection framework that allows a commercial off-the-shelf NIDS to function normally in a VPN without any modification. One of the features of the proposed framework is that it does not compromise on the confidentiality afforded by the VPN. Our work uses a combination of Shamir’s secret-sharing scheme and randomised network proxies to securely route network traffic to the NIDS for analysis. The detection framework is effective against two general classes of attacks – attacks targeted at the network hosts or attacks targeted at framework itself. We implement the detection framework as a prototype program and evaluate it. Our evaluation shows that the framework does indeed detect these classes of attacks and does not introduce any additional false positives. Despite the increase in network overhead in doing so, the proposed detection framework is able to consistently detect intrusions through encrypted networks.

Website customization : exploring a tag-based approach in the Australian banking context

Website customization can help to better fulfill the needs and wants of individual customers. It is an important aspect of customer satisfaction of online banking, especially among the younger generation. This dimension, however, is poorly addressed particularly in the Australian context. The proposed research aims to fulfill this gap by exploring the use of a popular Web 2.0 technology known as tags or user assigned metadata to facilitate customization at the interaction level. A prototype is proposed to demonstrate the various interaction-based customization types, evaluated through a series of experiments to assess the impact on customer satisfaction. The expected research outcome is a set of guidelines akin to interaction design patterns for aiding the design and implementation of the proposed tag-based approach.

Collaborative destination branding : planning for tourism development through design in the Waterfall Way, NSW, Australia

This thesis develops, applies and analyses a collaborative design methodology for branding a tourism destination. The area between the Northern Tablelands and the Mid-North Coast of New South Wales, Australia, was used as a case study for this research. The study applies theoretical concepts of systems thinking and complexity to the real world, and tests the use of design as a social tool to engage multiple stakeholders in planning. In this research I acknowledge that places (and destinations) are socially constructed through people's interactions with their physical and social environments. This study explores a methodology that is explicit about the uncertainties of the destination’s system, and that helps to elicit knowledge and system trends. The collective design process used the creation of brand concepts, elements and strategies as instruments to directly engage stakeholders in the process of reflecting about their places and the issues related to tourism activity in the region. The methods applied included individual conversations and collaborative design sessions to elicit knowledge from local stakeholders. Concept maps were used to register and interpret information released throughout the process. An important aspect of the methodology was to bring together different stakeholder groups and translate the information into a common language that was understandable by all participants. This work helped release significant information as to what kind of tourism activity local stakeholders are prepared to receive and support. It also helped the emergence of a more unified regional identity. The outcomes delivered by the project (brand, communication material and strategies) were of high quality and in line with the desires and expectation of the local hosts. The process also reinforced local sense of pride, belonging and conservation. Furthermore, interaction between participants from different parts of the region triggered some self organising activity around the brand they created together. A major contribution of the present work is the articulation of an inclusive methodology to facilitate the involvement of locals into the decision-making process related to tourism planning. Of particular significance is the focus on the social construction of meaning in and through design, showing that design exercises can have significant social impact – not only on the final product, but also on the realities of the people involved in the creative process.

Getting to know a stranger-rural nurses' experiences of mentoring : a grounded theory

Background: Mentoring is often proposed as a solution to the problem of successfully recruiting and retaining nursing staff. The aim of this constructivist grounded theory study was to explore Australian rural nurses' experiences of mentoring. Design: The research design used was reflexive in nature resulting in a substantive, constructivist grounded theory study. Participants: A national advertising campaign and snowball sampling were used to recruit nine participants from across Australia. Participants were rural nurses who had experience in mentoring others. Methods: Standard grounded theory methods of theoretical sampling, concurrent data collection and analysis using open, axial and theoretical coding and a story line technique to develop the core category and category saturation were used. To cultivate the reflexivity required of a constructivist study, we also incorporated reflective memoing, situational analysis mapping techniques and frame analysis. Data was generated through eleven interviews, email dialogue and shared situational mapping. Results: Cultivating and growing new or novice rural nurses using supportive relationships such as mentoring was found to be an existing, integral part of experienced rural nurses' practice, motivated by living and working in the same communities. Getting to know a stranger is the first part of the process of cultivating and growing another. New or novice rural nurses gain the attention of experienced rural nurses through showing potential or experiencing a critical incidence. Conclusions: The problem of retaining nurses is a global issue. Experienced nurses engaged in clinical practice have the potential to cultivate and grow new or novice nurses-many already do so. Recognising this role and providing opportunities for development will help grow a positive, supportive work environment that nurtures the experienced nurses of tomorrow.