Between rocks and hard places

A travel article about the Aland Islands, Finland, that discusses the mix of Swedish, Finnish, and Russian cultural influences in the area. On the map, Finland seems to end in fragments. The gods have stomped their heels on the southwestern corner, and between the cities of Helsinki and Turku it is jagged, rocky islands that form the final landmarks...

The times, wines and tides of Tasmania’s Tamar Valley

A travel article about the Tamar Valley, Tasmania. FROM Launceston to Low Head and the Tamar River’s entry into Bass Strait, big tides bring with them an atmosphere of a beach community, but also of a community a little stranded in time. Half the day the locals live by the sea, and for the other half along wide flats. It’s an old rhythm in a place where much has gone unchanged...

Take a journey to saga country, Reykjavik, Iceland

A travel article about a journey to Reykholt in Western Iceland, once the farm of saga author Snorri Sturluson. A TRIP back into snowbound Iceland's past in search of a famed warrior-poet throws up some old memories and fresh revelations for Kari Gislason "The fish must sing." An odd idea, I know - one uttered by a merchant in a novel by Halldor Laxness. But it said no more than what every Icelander since the settlement had known. If you were going to live on the edge of the world, it paid to do something to remind the rest of the world you were still here...

Give way to great charms of Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

A travel article about Halifax, Nova Scotia. MOTORISTS in Nova Scotia are so polite it's almost a shame to leave, writes Kari Gislason. By the end of my second day in Halifax, I begin to develop deep concerns about the safety of the locals, or the Haligonians as they're known. I wonder how they ever leave their fair city or, perhaps more to the point, how they ever make it back...

Experience the sights & sounds of Cape Breton, Nova Scotia

A travel article about Nova Scotia, and the area's annual Celtic music festival. I ARRIVED in Cape Breton on the occasion of the Fibre Festival, run not only by the South Haven Guild of Weavers but also the Baddeck Quilters Guild. And yet I might not have noticed that it was on, had it not been for a car, shrouded entirely by a quilt cover, that was parked outside the Volunteer Fire Department Hall. I was on my way to the Alexander Graham Bell Museum a little further along Baddeck's main street. But I stopped, for who wouldn't stop to look at the various fibres of Cape Breton. The hall had been divided between weavers and quilters. Naturally, I left hoping that one day this ancient divide might be healed...

Losing yourself in the moment

A travel article about Thailand, following a journey from Bangkok to Khanom. DEPENDING on how you look at it, you're either hopelessly lost or about to enjoy some fascinating adventures off the usual tourist tracks, as Kari Gislason discovers. One of the great lessons of travel is that getting lost is usually better than getting found. There are various ways of achieving this. I, for one, seem to manage getting lost most easily when I have a map in my hands...

Experience indigenous culture in Arnhem Land, NT

A travel article about a journey to the Cobourg Peninsula, Arnhem Land. "NOW I know I'm back,'' says our guide David McMahon as the scent of wood smoke makes its way into the 4WD. For McMahon, being back means Kakadu and Arnhem Land, and ultimately our final destination in the Northern Territory's Cobourg Peninsula. In the north, one of the first things you need to adjust is your attitude to fire. The indigenous people have long worked with it. The rangers perform controlled burns. The animals have adapted and know how to escape the flames. The smoke trail leads us down the old Jim Jim Rd, our first stretch of dirt track since leaving Darwin. Our destination is the Venture North campsite at Garig Gunak Barlu National Park...

All the Flavours of Asia

A travel article about food and landscape in Thailand. Thick forest islands the first limestone karst that we see. In the cracks and ledges of these cliff faces, low trees make a steady ascent. From the road, it looks an impossible climb, but the forest has managed to find a line to the top and to form a platform of dense canopy. We’re coming into Krabi, an area of southern Thailand famous for these formations. Soon, the forest base will be replaced by ocean. Grottos, undercuts, and yellow beaches will add a skirt of luxury to the drama to the cliffs...

Food trail through Jasper, Lake Louise and Calgary in Canada

A travel article about food and landscape in Alberta. IN THE remote islands off Canada's east coast, I was given an old rule of survival: If you get lost in the forest, follow the bear tracks and eat what the bears eat, except skunk cabbage. There was no second rule for what to do about the bear, should he also appear. No matter. "Do this and you'll live," it says, "just as we did in the past."...

Eclectic blend somehow makes sense at Cable Beach Resort in Broome

A travel article about Cable Beach, Broome. A DAY of flights, confined spaces and queues comes to an end. I'm more tired than when my kids were infants. I've lost all sensation in my knees. And I'm thinking that perhaps I should have taken my wallet out my back pocket. In the course of a day's sitting, it seems to have indented a deep square into my right buttock...

Lessons from a Church Mural

A travel article about the Moselle Valley, Germany. There’s a school of thought that says you shouldn’t look back in life. This is not the received wisdom in Cochem, a village on the Moselle river known, like many others in the area, for its white wine and fairytale castle. Here, they say, it’s bad luck if you don’t turn around for one last look at a mural of St Christopher that graces the castle’s main tower...

Boat race festival in Samoa

A travel article about the Teuila Festival in Samoa. "IT isn't a festival without a boat race," Faumui Iese says. We stand together on one side of a spectator boat as it follows the Teuila Festival Fautasi Race. On the shoreline, a crowd clambers down a retaining wall. It seems his is a common sentiment. Each team represents a village...

Wilds of the Canadian Rockies

A travel article about touring in the Rockies, Alberta. MORAINE Lake, held up by a crown of mountains near the small town of Lake Louise, is opal blue. You'd need a precious stone to cut the surface. And even on a hot morning in August, there are plenty around: diamonds of snow decorate the mountain tops and, in their reflections, slice the lake with white triangles. We are at the start of a track that climbs from the lake to Mt Temple, the tallest mountain in the area and two or three hours' walk away. When the track zigzags back, we glimpse the lake through gaps in the conifer forest...

A cultural life in Samoa

A travel article about a tour of Samoa. I WAKE to the smell of smoke. Outside, a morning routine has begun - the burning of leaves that overnight settle in the backyards. Even in the capital, gardens are miniature farms. Chickens, bananas and coconuts. When the smoke haze lifts and the faint waves of a sea breeze come off Apia Harbour, the corrugated iron roofs shine through like headlights coming out of fog...

Moved by spirit of Canadian nature

A travel article about a visit to Klemtu and the Great Bear Rainforest, British Columbia. A LOW-TIDE mark of rocks coated in orange seaweed borders the islands of the Great Bear Rainforest. Our seaplane stays low under the clouds. As we approach the village of Klemtu, turning into Finlayson Channel, the trees beneath us thicken against the shoreline like a concert crowd being pushed from behind. There's no gap between the dark, still sea and the front row of soaring conifers, seemingly no entry point into one of the last great wilderness areas.