The knock-on from the knock-off : recent shifts within Australian mass market fashion design practice

Australia’s mass market fashion labels have traditionally benefitted from their peripheral location to the world’s fashion centres. Operating a season behind, Australian mass market designers and buyers were well-placed to watch trends play out overseas before testing them in the Australian marketplace. For this reason, often a designer’s role was to source and oversee the manufacture of ‘knock-offs’, or close copies of Northern hemisphere mass market garments. Both Weller (2007) and Walsh (2009) have commented on this practice. The knock-on effect from this continues to be a cautious, derivative fashion sensibility within Australian mass market fashion design, where any new trend or product is first tested and proved overseas months earlier. However, there is evidence that this is changing. The rapid online dissemination of global fashion trends, coupled with the Australian consumer’s willingness to shop online, has meant that the ‘knock-off’ is less viable. For this reason, a number of mass market companies are moving away from the practice of direct sourcing and are developing product in-house under a Northern hemisphere model. This shift is also witnessed in the trend for mass market companies to develop collections in partnership with independent Australian designers. This paper explores the current and potential effects of these shifts within Australian mass market design practice, and discusses how they may impact on designers, consumers and on the wider culture of Australian fashion.

Evaluation of novel Streptococcus pyogenes vaccine candidates incorporating multiple conserved sequences from the C-repeat region of the M-protein

A major challenge for Streptococcus pyogenes vaccine development is the identification of epitopes that confer protection from infection by multiple S. pyogenes M-types. Here we have identified and characterised the distribution of common variant sequences from individual repeat units of the C-repeat region (CRR) of M-proteins representing 77 different M-types. Three polyvalent fusion vaccine candidates (SV1, SV2 and SV3) incorporating the most common variants were subsequently expressed and purified, and demonstrated to be alpha-helical by Circular Dichroism (CD), a secondary conformational characteristic of the CRR in the M-protein. Antibodies raised against each of these constructs recognise M-proteins that vary in their CRR, and bind to the surface of multiple S. pyogenes isolates. Antibodies raised against SV1, containing five variant sequences, also kill heterologous S. pyogenes isolates in in vitro bactericidal assays. Further structural characterisation of this construct demonstrated the conformation of SV1 was stable at different pHs, and thermal unfolding of SV1 a reversible process. Our findings demonstrate that linkage of multiple variant sequences into a single recombinant construct overcomes the need to embed the variant sequences in foreign helix promoting flanking sequences for conformational stability, and demonstrates the viability of the polyvalent candidates as global S. pyogenes vaccine candidates.

From the margin to the centre : towards an art strategy for the ethnic enclaves in the city

Sunnybank represents a distinctly Australian take on the classic ‘Chinatown’ – or indeed other ethic community enclaves such as ‘little Italy’, ‘little Bombay’, ‘little Athens’ and so on. In the Northern Hemisphere these tended to grow up in the dense working class neighbourhoods of industrial cities, especially in port cities like Liverpool, London, New York and San Francisco. The existing Chinatowns of Sydney and Melbourne, and to some extent Brisbane’s Fortitude Valley, are of this variety. In the late 1970s, with the growth of suburbanisation and the de-industrialisation and consequent dereliction of the ‘inner city’, these ethnic communities were one of the few signs of life in the city. Apart from the daily commute into the CBD, business with the city council or a trip to the big shopping streets these areas were one of the few reasons for visiting city centres stigmatised by urban decay and petty crime.

What our ICT graduates really need from us : a perspective from the workplace

A national Discipline-Based Initiative (DBI) project for Information and Communications Technology (ICT), funded by the Australian Learning and Teaching Council, has sought the opinions of recent graduates of ICT in the workplace to help inform the curriculum. An online survey was devised to question graduates on workplace requirements and university preparation for abilities categorized as: personal interpersonal; cognitive; business and technical. The graduates in employment have highlighted broad mismatches between the requirements of their professional work in these categories and the preparation for employment they received from university. A regression analysis was used to determine influences on graduates’ opinions of the preparation they received at university. The quantitative and qualitative results from this survey could have far reaching consequences for ICT education and this initiative will enable the development of curricula that ensures graduates are equipped with the skills required by the ICT industry.

Imagination for re-engagement from the margins of education

For marginalised secondary school students, mainstream education may no longer appear to be an inviting place. While proposed solutions to problems of disengagement and marginalisation appear to concentrate on finding ways to coerce students back to mainstream education through, for example, ‘learning or earning’ legislation, this article suggests that more effective solutions may be found by engaging with the students in the margins that they occupy. Following discussion of key influences on student disengagement and a theory of imaginations, a ‘students-as-researchers’ (SaR) model of working with young people is discussed to demonstrate that, through the scaffolded application of active imagination, it is possible for such students to identify and create their own connections to the mainstream. The SaR model is illustrated through reference to groups of disaffected high school students who participated in an action research project to investigate apparent low aspiration for tertiary education among their peers at schools serving low-income communities in Queensland, Australia.

From the “Little Aussie Bleeder” to Newstopia : (really) fake news in Australia

This paper offers an overview of the key characteristics of “fake” news in the Australian national context. Focusing on two television shows – The Norman Gunston Show and NEWStopia – it historicizes “fake” news within Australian television culture, situating it as part of a broader tradition of what Turner (1989) calls “Transgressive TV.” After analyzing the core comedic themes, styles, and intertextual relationships of both shows, the paper concludes that, although news parody in Australia has tended to be highly fictionalized, it may nevertheless play a vital role in helping viewers better understand generic devices that frame and govern “real” television news.

External orientation and business model adaptation in young and nascent firms : preliminary analysis from the CAUSSE project

Discovering factors that help or impede business model change is an important quest, both for researchers and practitioners. In this study we present preliminary findings based on the CAUSEE survey of young and nascent firms in Australia. In particular, we seek to determine an association between business model adaptation and external orientation among young and nascent firms within the random sample and amongst an oversample of high potential firms. The concept of external orientation is made operational by asking respondents whether, and to what extent, they rely on certain sources of advice and information. We find that high potential firms are more likely to have made at least some change to their business model, that greater use of external sources of advice is generally significantly associated with business model adaptation, but also that there appear to be different patterns of behaviour between the random sample and the over sample.

Thermal stability of crandallite CaAl3(PO4)2(OH)5•(H2O) – a ‘cave’ mineral from the Jenolan Caves

Thermogravimetry combined with evolved gas mass spectrometry has been used to characterise the mineral crandallite CaAl3(PO4)2(OH)5•(H2O) and to ascertain the thermal stability of this ‘cave’ mineral. X-ray diffraction proves the presence of the mineral and identifies the products after thermal decomposition. The mineral crandallite is formed through the reaction of calcite with bat guano. Thermal analysis shows that the mineral starts to decompose through dehydration at low temperatures at around 139°C while dehydroxylation occurs over the temperature range 200 to 700°C with loss of OH units. The critical temperature for OH loss is around 416°C and above this temperature the mineral structure is altered. Some minor loss of carbonate impurity occurs at 788°C. This study shows the mineral is unstable above 139°C. This temperature is well above the temperature in caves, which have a maximum temperature of 15°C. A chemical reaction for the synthesis of crandallite is offered and the mechanism for the thermal decomposition is given.

The incorporation of web 2.0 into learning design : an implementation model from the perspectives of teachers and students

This paper summarises some of the recent studies on various types of learning approaches that have utilised some form of Web 2.0 services in curriculum design to enhance learning. A generic implementation model of this integration will then be presented to illustrate the overall learning implementation process. Recently, the integration of Web 2.0 technologies into learning curriculum has begun to get a wide acceptance among teaching instructors across various higher learning institutions. This is evidenced by numerous studies which indicate the implementation of a range of Web 2.0 technologies into their learning design to improve learning delivery. Moreover, recent studies also have shown that the ability of current students to embrace Web 2.0 technologies is better than students using existing learning technology. Despite various attempts made by teachers in relation to the integration, researchers have noted a lack of integration standard to help in curriculum design. The absence of this standard will restrict the capacity of Web 2.0 adaptation into learning and adding more the complexity to provide meaningful learning. Therefore, this paper will attempt to draw a conceptual integration model which is being generated to reflect how learning activities with some facilitation of Web 2.0 is currently being implemented. The design of this model is based on shared experiences by many scholars as well as feedback gathered from two separate surveys conducted on teachers and a group of 180 students. Furthermore, this paper also recognizes some key components that generally engage in the design of a Web 2.0 teaching and learning which need to be addressed accordingly. Overall, the content of this paper will be organised as follows. The first part of the paper will introduce the importance of Web 2.0 implementation in teaching and learning from the perspective of higher education institutions and those challenges surrounding this area. The second part summarizes related works done in this field and brings forward the concept of designing learning with the incorporation of Web 2.0 technology. The next part presents the results of analysis derived from the two student and teachers surveys on using Web 2.0 during learning activities. This paper concludes by presenting a model that reflects several key entities that may be involved during the learning design.

3D anthropometry : from the ergonomist's perspective

Since the availability of 3D full body scanners and the associated software systems for operations with large point clouds, 3D anthropometry has been marketed as a breakthrough and milestone in ergonomic design. The assumptions made by the representatives of the 3D paradigm need to be critically reviewed though. 3D anthropometry has advantages as well as shortfalls, which need to be carefully considered. While it is apparent that the measurement of a full body point cloud allows for easier storage of raw data and improves quality control, the difficulties in calculation of standardized measurements from the point cloud are widely underestimated. Early studies that made use of 3D point clouds to derive anthropometric dimensions have shown unacceptable deviations from the standardized results measured manually. While 3D human point clouds provide a valuable tool to replicate specific single persons for further virtual studies, or personalize garment, their use in ergonomic design must be critically assessed. Ergonomic, volumetric problems are defined by their 2-dimensional boundary or one dimensional sections. A 1D/2D approach is therefore sufficient to solve an ergonomic design problem. As a consequence, all modern 3D human manikins are defined by the underlying anthropometric girths (2D) and lengths/widths (1D), which can be measured efficiently using manual techniques. Traditionally, Ergonomists have taken a statistical approach to design for generalized percentiles of the population rather than for a single user. The underlying method is based on the distribution function of meaningful single and two-dimensional anthropometric variables. Compared to these variables, the distribution of human volume has no ergonomic relevance. On the other hand, if volume is to be seen as a two-dimensional integral or distribution function of length and girth, the calculation of combined percentiles – a common ergonomic requirement - is undefined. Consequently, we suggest to critically review the cost and use of 3D anthropometry. We also recommend making proper use of widely available single and 2-dimensional anthropometric data in ergonomic design.

Phenotypic characterization of osteoarthritic osteocytes from the sclerotic zones : a possible pathological role in subchondral bone sclerosis

Subchondral bone sclerosis is a well-recognised manifestation of osteoarthritis (OA). The osteocyte cell network is now considered to be central to the regulation of bone homeo-stasis; however, it is not known whether the integrity of the osteocyte cell network is altered in OA patients. The aim of this study was to investigate OA osteocyte phenotypic changes and its potential role in OA subchondral bone pathogenesis. The morphological and phenotypic changes of osteocytes in OA samples were investigated by micro-CT, SEM, histology, im-munohistochemistry, TRAP staining, apoptosis assay and real-time PCR studies. We demonstrated that in OA subchondral bone, the osteocyte morphology was altered showing rough and rounded cell body with fewer and disorganized dendrites compared with the os-teocytes in control samples. OA osteocyte also showed dysregulated expression of osteocyte markers, apoptosis, and degradative enzymes, indicating that the phenotypical changes in OA osteocytes were accompanied with OA subchondral bone remodelling (increased osteoblast and osteoclast activity) and increased bone volume with altered mineral content. Significant alteration of osteocytes identified in OA samples indicates a potential regulatory role of osteocytes in subchondral bone remodelling and mineral metabolism during OA pathogene-sis.

The adoption of residential sustainability programs : lessons from the commercial sector

The article explains and compares sustainability programs available for use by residential and commercial premises; as well as the respective legal tenure frameworks of commercial and residential tenancies. It identifies that while the desire of commercial tenants drive the participation by landlords in these programs, residential tenants appear to be ignorant of sustainable measures. The article contends that the reason for this difference is rooted in the legal and social status of residential tenants. It explores the impact that secure tenure may have in promoting residential sustainability programs and concludes by observing that the lack of involvement of residential tenants in programs stems from the absence of tenure security, which prevents any long term cooperation between the parties.

Cyclic imides and an open-chain amide carboxylic acid from the facile reaction of cis-cyclohexane-1,2-dicarboxylic anhydride with the isomeric monofluoroanilines

The structures of the cyclic imides cis-2-(2-fluorophenyl)-3a,4,5,6,7,7a-hexahydroisoindole-1,3-dione, C14H14FNO2, (I), and cis-2-(4-fluorophenyl)-3a,4,5,6,7,7a-hexahydroisoindoline-1,3-dione, C14H14FNO2, (III), and the open-chain amide acid rac-cis-2-[(3-fluorophenyl)carbamoyl]cyclohexane-1-carboxylic acid, C14H16FNO3, (II), are reported. Cyclic imides (I) and (III) are conformationally similar, with comparable ring rotations about the imide N-Car bond [the dihedral angles between the benzene ring and the five-membered isoindole ring are 55.40 (8)° for (I) and 51.83 (7)° for (III)]. There are no formal intermolecular hydrogen bonds involved in the crystal packing of either (I) or (III). With the acid (II), in which the meta-related F-atom substituent is rotationally disordered (0.784:0.216), the amide group lies slightly out of the benzene plane [the interplanar dihedral angle is 39.7 (1)°]. Intermolecular amide-carboxyl N-HO hydrogen-bonding interactions between centrosymmetrically related molecules form stacks extending down b, and these are linked across c by carboxyl-amide O-HO hydrogen bonds, giving two-dimensional layered structures which lie in the (011) plane. The structures reported here represent examples of compounds analogous to the phthalimides or phthalanilic acids and have little precedence in the crystallographic literature.