Ethical fashion : the human stories driving a fashion movement

This paper examines and compares two stories, the novel Helen Fleetwood (Elizabeth, 1841) and the film China Blue (Teddy Bear Films, 2005), in relation to the Ethical Fashion movement. In 2005, more than 50 designers from around the world took part in The Ethical Fashion Show in Paris. This movement dictates that designers ensure that their garments are produced in an ethical manner, rather than support the ‘sweatshop’ environments of some industrialists determined to make a profit at the expense of workers rights. The momentum of the Ethical Fashion movement suggests that it is possible for fashion to be ethical, desirable and profitable in the 21st century. In 1841, after extensive research, Charlotte Elizabeth Tonna (using the pseudonym Charlotte Elizabeth) began to write about the atrocities of the factory system in industrialised England. Her novel, Helen Fleetwood, is one of the earliest examples of this kind of work, providing the reader with an extensive insight into the life of English factory workers in the mid-19th century. The story is about the Widow Green and her orphan dependents who are led, through circumstance, to leave their rural home and take up employment in the cotton mills of Manchester, with the hope of having an independent existence. Instead they discover the realities of factory life – extremely long hours, unsafe conditions, poor wages and a steady decline into extreme poverty. In his film China Blue (Teddy Bear Films, 2005), director Micha X. Peled tells an alarmingly similar tale set in 21st century China. This ‘docu-drama’ (a recreation from actual interviews and diary entries) tells the story of ‘Little Jasmine’ who leaves her family’s farm to pursue an independent life in Southern China’s manufacturing district. It is not long before the realities of modern factory life are revealed to the teenage ‘heroine’ – crowded dormitories, long working hours, arbitrary fines and wages that do not compare with those of workers in the Western world. While much of the human story remains unchanged, there have been significant improvements in technology and safety in the last 165 years that result in the reality that not all clothing manufacture is performed in ‘sweatshop’ conditions. After a recent visit to a manufacturing plant in China, consultation with peers in the industry and having worked in the Australian fashion industry for many years, the author compares these stories with her own experiences.

A hybrid Chinese information retrieval model

A distinctive feature of Chinese test is that a Chinese document is a sequence of Chinese with no space or boundary between Chinese words. This feature makes Chinese information retrieval more difficult since a retrieved document which contains the query term as a sequence of Chinese characters may not be really relevant to the query since the query term (as a sequence Chinese characters) may not be a valid Chinese word in that documents. On the other hand, a document that is actually relevant may not be retrieved because it does not contain the query sequence but contains other relevant words. In this research, we propose a hybrid Chinese information retrieval model by incorporating word-based techniques with the traditional character-based techniques. The aim of this approach is to investigate the influence of Chinese segmentation on the performance of Chinese information retrieval. Two ranking methods are proposed to rank retrieved documents based on the relevancy to the query calculated by combining character-based ranking and word-based ranking. Our experimental results show that Chinese segmentation can improve the performance of Chinese information retrieval, but the improvement is not significant if it incorporates only Chinese segmentation with the traditional character-based approach.

Waist circumference cut-off values for the prediction of cardiovascular risk factors clustering in Chinese school-aged children : a cross-sectional study

Background: Waist circumference has been identified as a valuable predictor of cardiovascular risk in children. The development of waist circumference percentiles and cut-offs for various ethnic groups are necessary because of differences in body composition. The purpose of this study was to develop waist circumference percentiles for Chinese children and to explore optimal waist circumference cut-off values for predicting cardiovascular risk factors clustering in this population.----- ----- Methods: Height, weight, and waist circumference were measured in 5529 children (2830 boys and 2699 girls) aged 6-12 years randomly selected from southern and northern China. Blood pressure, fasting triglycerides, low-density lipoprotein cholesterol, high-density lipoprotein cholesterol, and glucose were obtained in a subsample (n = 1845). Smoothed percentile curves were produced using the LMS method. Receiver-operating characteristic analysis was used to derive the optimal age- and gender-specific waist circumference thresholds for predicting the clustering of cardiovascular risk factors.----- ----- Results: Gender-specific waist circumference percentiles were constructed. The waist circumference thresholds were at the 90th and 84th percentiles for Chinese boys and girls respectively, with sensitivity and specificity ranging from 67% to 83%. The odds ratio of a clustering of cardiovascular risk factors among boys and girls with a higher value than cut-off points was 10.349 (95% confidence interval 4.466 to 23.979) and 8.084 (95% confidence interval 3.147 to 20.767) compared with their counterparts.----- ----- Conclusions: Percentile curves for waist circumference of Chinese children are provided. The cut-off point for waist circumference to predict cardiovascular risk factors clustering is at the 90th and 84th percentiles for Chinese boys and girls, respectively.

Short-term retention of labeled chondrocyte subpopulations in stratified tissue-engineered cartilaginous constructs implanted in vivo in mini-pigs

It is likely that effective application of cell-laden implants for cartilage defects depends on retention of implanted cells and interaction between implanted and host cells. The objectives of this study were to characterize stratified cartilaginous constructs seeded sequentially with superficial (S) and middle (M) chondrocyte subpopulations labelled with fluorescent cell tracking dye PKH26 (*) and determine the degree to which these stratified cartilaginous constructs maintain their architecture in vivo after implantation in mini-pigs for 1 week. Alginate-recovered cells were seeded sequentially to form stratified S*/M (only S cells labelled) and S*/M* (both S and M cells labelled) constructs. Full-thickness defects (4 mm diameter) were created in the patellofemoral groove of adult Yucatan mini-pigs and filled with portions of constructs or left empty. Constructs were characterized biochemically, histologically, and biomechanically, and stratification visualized and quantified, before and after implant. After 1 week, animals were sacrificed and implants retrieved. After 1 week in vivo, glycosaminoglycan and collagen content of constructs remained similar to that at implant, whereas DNA content increased. Histological analyses revealed features of an early repair response, with defects filled with tissues containing little matrix and abundant cells. Some implanted (PKH26-labeled) cells persisted in the defects, although constructs did not maintain a stratified organization. Of the labelled cells, 126 +/- 38% and 32 +/- 8% in S*/M and S*/M* constructs, respectively, were recovered. Distribution of labelled cells indicated interactions between implanted and host cells. Longer-term in vivo studies will be useful in determining whether implanted cells are sufficient to have a positive effect in repair.

Influence of parameters on the heterogeneous photocatalytic degradation of pesticides and phenolic contaminants in wastewater : a short review

In recent years, the application of heterogeneous photocatalytic water purification process has gained wide attention due to its effectiveness in degrading and mineralizing the recalcitrant organic compounds as well as the possibility of utilizing the solar UV and visible light spectrum. This paper aims to review and summarize the recently published works on the titanium dioxide (TiO2) photocatalytic oxidation of pesticides and phenolic compounds, predominant in storm and waste water effluents. The effect of various operating parameters on the photocatalytic degradation of pesticides and phenols are discussed. Results reported here suggested that the photocatalytic degradation of organic compounds depends on the type of photocatalyst and composition, light intensity, initial substrate concentration, amount of catalyst, pH of the reaction medium, ionic components in water, solvent types, oxidizing agents/electron acceptors, catalyst application mode, and calcinations temperature in water environment. A substantial amount of research has focused on the enhancement of TiO2 photocatalysis by modification with metal, non-metal and ion doping. Recent developments in TiO2 photocatalysis for the degradation of various pesticides and phenols are also highlighted in this review. It is evident from the literature survey that photocatalysis has shown good potential for the removal of various organic pollutants. However, still there is a need to find out the practical utility of this technique on commercial scale.

Crystal growth from undercooling melts under strong gradients of temperatures generating in short-duration microgravity

Crystal growth of bulk CdTe in short-duration microgravity is performed by the unidirectional cooling method. The largest growth grains in microgravity samples are 4X2mm. The cooling profiles indicate undercooling melts in microgravity. Cooling melt samples in microgravity generate strong gradient of temperature due to stop thermal convections. Temperature distribution in the melt is calculated by the one-dimensional equation of heat conduction, and about 100 K-undercooling is considered to occur at the cooling surface.

Independent cinema in the Chinese film industry

Chinese independent cinema has developed for more than twenty years. Two sorts of independent cinema exist in China. One is underground cinema, which is produced without official approvals and cannot be circulated in China, and the other are the films which are legally produced by small private film companies and circulated in the domestic film market. This sort of ‘within-system’ independent cinema has played a significant role in the development of Chinese cinema in terms of culture, economics and ideology. In contrast to the amount of comment on underground filmmaking in China, the significance of ‘within-system’ independent cinema has been underestimated by most scholars. This thesis is a study of how political management has determined the development of Chinese independent cinema and how Chinese independent cinema has developed during its various historical trajectories. This study takes media economics as the research approach, and its major methods utilise archive analysis and interviews. The thesis begins with a general review of the definition and business of American independent cinema. Then, after a literature review of Chinese independent cinema, it identifies significant gaps in previous studies and reviews issues of traditional definition and suggests a new definition. After several case studies on the changes in the most famous Chinese directors’ careers, the thesis shows that state studios and private film companies are two essential domestic backers for filmmaking in China. After that, the body of the thesis provides an examination of the development of ‘within-system’ independent cinema. Specifically, three factors: government intervention, the majors’ performance (state studios and, later, the conglomerates) and the market conduct of independent cinema at various points in their trajectories are studied. The key findings of the study are as follows: First, most scholars have overlooked the existence and the significance of within-system Chinese independent cinema. Drawing on an American definition of the independent sector, this thesis proposes a definition of the sector in China: namely, any film that has not been financed, produced, and/or distributed by majors. The thesis also notes important contradictions in applying this definition: i.e. film-making is still dependent on policies that frame industry development. The thesis recognises that major tensions apply to filmmaking in China, which significantly differentiates the Chinese independents from those in the US. Second, the development of Chinese independent cinema is the result the rise of the private sector and the decline of the state studio system. As state studios encountered difficulties the private sector moved forward; consequently the environment improved for independent cinema. Third, before 2003, the film industry in China had little commercialisation. The government controlled independent cinema by means of license and censorship. State studios produced main melody films and Hollywood attracted most of the audiences. Many independent filmmakers focused on commercial films, thus contributing to film commercialisation. Fourth, after 2003, the film industry became increasingly fragmented. The government created distribution and exhibition opportunities for main melody films; conglomerates collaborated with Hong Kong players; Hong Kong co-productions and Hollywood occupied the film market; and small private film companies produced main melody films in order to earn meagre profits. The original contribution of the thesis is to advance the study of Chinese independent cinema. The study suggests a reasonable and practical definition of Chinese independent cinema. It shows how the Chinese government authorities have implemented economic measures to gain ideological control in the film industry. Finally, this the first study on Chinese independent cinema applying a synthesis of economic, political and historical perspectives.

Categorisation of activities of daily living of lower limb amputees during short-term use of a portable kinetic recording system : a preliminary study

The purpose of this preliminary study was to determine the relevance of the categorization of the load regime data to assess the functional output and usage of the prosthesis of lower limb amputees. The objectives were a) to introduce a categorization of load regime, b) to present some descriptors of each activity, and c) to report the results for a case. The load applied on the osseointegrated fixation of one transfemoral amputee was recorded using a portable kinetic system for 5 hours. The periods of directional locomotion, localized locomotion, and stationary loading occurred 44%, 34%, and 22% of recording time and each accounted for 51%, 38%, and 12% of the duration of the periods of activity, respectively. The absolute maximum force during directional locomotion, localized locomotion, and stationary loading was 19%, 15%, and 8% of the body weight on the anteroposterior axis, 20%, 19%, and 12% on the mediolateral axis, and 121%, 106%, and 99% on the long axis. A total of 2,783 gait cycles were recorded. Approximately 10% more gait cycles and 50% more of the total impulse than conventional analyses were identified. The proposed categorization and apparatus have the potential to complement conventional instruments, particularly for difficult cases.

Self-management of cancer treatment-related fatigue, nausea, vomiting and oral mucositis in Chinese cancer patients

Background: Treatment-related symptoms continue to place a significant burden on many cancer patients. Many side effects require patients to engage in a range of self-management actions. While some studies have explored self-management of treatment-related side effects in Western settings, very few studies were identified that described the self-management practices of cancer patients in China. Objective: The purposes of this study are to: (1) Investigate Chinese cancer patients. self-management behaviours in dealing with the fatigue, nausea/vomiting and oral mucositis that result from treatment, as well as the perceived effectiveness of these behaviours and related self-efficacy in performing them. (2) Explore factors influencing symptom self-management behaviours using the Cancer Symptom Self-management Framework based on Grey, Knafl and McCorkle.s (2006) self-management framework as a guide. Methods: This study was divided into two phases. Phase One consisted of the translation and modification of two instruments. The adaptation of these instruments to ensure applicability in the Chinese context was achieved through semi-structured interviews with six cancer patients, and content evaluation with eight experienced oncology nurses. A pilot study was conducted with nine cancer patients to trial the questionnaire set in the Chinese context. Based on the results of Phase One, Phase Two involved a cross-sectional survey of Chinese cancer patients undergoing cancer treatment using these instruments. A total of 277 chemotherapy patients with fatigue and/or nausea and vomiting, and 100 radiotherapy patients with oral mucositis were surveyed. Results: Participants in this study reported a variety of self-management behaviours to cope with fatigue, nausea, vomiting and oral mucositis. There are some consistencies as well disparities between strategies that are frequently used and those rated as effective. For fatigue self-management, participants were more likely to use strategies related to rest and sleep, while activity enhancement strategies were rated as achieving higher relief. For nausea and vomiting self-management, dietary modification and taking medication were most frequently used and rated as moderately effective. Psychological strategies were used by more than a third of participants and were rated as mildly effective. Some other infrequently used strategies, such as distraction by keeping busy and acupressure, were rated as moderately effective. For oral mucositis self-management, having soft, bland food and keeping the mouth moisturised were most frequently reported and they were rated as achieving moderate relief. A prescribed mouthwash was used by most but not all participants and brought moderate relief. In general, patients had low-to-moderate self-efficacy in nausea and vomiting self-management behaviours, moderate self-efficacy in fatigue self-management behaviours, and low-to-moderate self-efficacy in oral mucositis self-management behaviours. In terms of the factors influencing symptom self-management, different predictors were identified affecting engagement in fatigue, nausea/vomiting and oral mucositis self-management behaviours. Self-efficacy scores of different behaviours were consistently found to be a positive predictor of the relief level from corresponding behaviours, after controlling for other variables. Perceived social support from health care professionals was identified as an important factor influencing nausea and vomiting self-management behaviours, while neighbourhood support was important for fatigue self-management. In addition, symptom distress was identified as an important factor influencing nausea and vomiting self-management. Conclusion: Similar to reports from overseas, Chinese cancer patients initiate a wide range of self-management behaviours in response to treatment-related side effects. While some behaviours were reported to provide relief, many did not. Given these results, this study has a number of practical implications for health care professionals, particularly in relation to developing tailored self-management programs for fatigue, nausea, vomiting and oral mucositis. Additionally, this study suggests a number of theoretical implications and directions for future research. It is envisaged that these recommendations may pave the way for further studies understanding and promoting cancer symptom self-management in Chinese people affected by cancer.

Malnutrition and clinical outcomes in elderly patients from a Singapore acute hospital

Older adults, especially those acutely ill, are vulnerable to developing malnutrition due to a range of risk factors. The high prevalence and extensive consequences of malnutrition in hospitalised older adults have been reported extensively. However, there are few well-designed longitudinal studies that report the independent relationship between malnutrition and clinical outcomes after adjustment for a wide range of covariates. Acutely ill older adults are exceptionally prone to nutritional decline during hospitalisation, but few reports have studied this change and impact on clinical outcomes. In the rapidly ageing Singapore population, all this evidence is lacking, and the characteristics associated with the risk of malnutrition are also not well-documented. Despite the evidence on malnutrition prevalence, it is often under-recognised and under-treated. It is therefore crucial that validated nutrition screening and assessment tools are used for early identification of malnutrition. Although many nutrition screening and assessment tools are available, there is no universally accepted method for defining malnutrition risk and nutritional status. Most existing tools have been validated amongst Caucasians using various approaches, but they are rarely reported in the Asian elderly and none has been validated in Singapore. Due to the multiethnicity, cultural, and language differences in Singapore older adults, the results from non-Asian validation studies may not be applicable. Therefore it is important to identify validated population and setting specific nutrition screening and assessment methods to accurately detect and diagnose malnutrition in Singapore. The aims of this study are therefore to: i) characterise hospitalised elderly in a Singapore acute hospital; ii) describe the extent and impact of admission malnutrition; iii) identify and evaluate suitable methods for nutritional screening and assessment; and iv) examine changes in nutritional status during admission and their impact on clinical outcomes. A total of 281 participants, with a mean (+SD) age of 81.3 (+7.6) years, were recruited from three geriatric wards in Tan Tock Seng Hospital over a period of eight months. They were predominantly Chinese (83%) and community-dwellers (97%). They were screened within 72 hours of admission by a single dietetic technician using four nutrition screening tools [Tan Tock Seng Hospital Nutrition Screening Tool (TTSH NST), Nutritional Risk Screening 2002 (NRS 2002), Mini Nutritional Assessment-Short Form (MNA-SF), and Short Nutritional Assessment Questionnaire (SNAQ©)] that were administered in no particular order. The total scores were not computed during the screening process so that the dietetic technician was blinded to the results of all the tools. Nutritional status was assessed by a single dietitian, who was blinded to the screening results, using four malnutrition assessment methods [Subjective Global Assessment (SGA), Mini Nutritional Assessment (MNA), body mass index (BMI), and corrected arm muscle area (CAMA)]. The SGA rating was completed prior to computation of the total MNA score to minimise bias. Participants were reassessed for weight, arm anthropometry (mid-arm circumference, triceps skinfold thickness), and SGA rating at discharge from the ward. The nutritional assessment tools and indices were validated against clinical outcomes (length of stay (LOS) >11days, discharge to higher level care, 3-month readmission, 6-month mortality, and 6-month Modified Barthel Index) using multivariate logistic regression. The covariates included age, gender, race, dementia (defined using DSM IV criteria), depression (defined using a single question “Do you often feel sad or depressed?”), severity of illness (defined using a modified version of the Severity of Illness Index), comorbidities (defined using Charlson Comorbidity Index, number of prescribed drugs and admission functional status (measured using Modified Barthel Index; MBI). The nutrition screening tools were validated against the SGA, which was found to be the most appropriate nutritional assessment tool from this study (refer section 5.6) Prevalence of malnutrition on admission was 35% (defined by SGA), and it was significantly associated with characteristics such as swallowing impairment (malnourished vs well-nourished: 20% vs 5%), poor appetite (77% vs 24%), dementia (44% vs 28%), depression (34% vs 22%), and poor functional status (MBI 48.3+29.8 vs 65.1+25.4). The SGA had the highest completion rate (100%) and was predictive of the highest number of clinical outcomes: LOS >11days (OR 2.11, 95% CI [1.17- 3.83]), 3-month readmission (OR 1.90, 95% CI [1.05-3.42]) and 6-month mortality (OR 3.04, 95% CI [1.28-7.18]), independent of a comprehensive range of covariates including functional status, disease severity and cognitive function. SGA is therefore the most appropriate nutritional assessment tool for defining malnutrition. The TTSH NST was identified as the most suitable nutritional screening tool with the best diagnostic performance against the SGA (AUC 0.865, sensitivity 84%, specificity 79%). Overall, 44% of participants experienced weight loss during hospitalisation, and 27% had weight loss >1% per week over median LOS 9 days (range 2-50). Wellnourished (45%) and malnourished (43%) participants were equally prone to experiencing decline in nutritional status (defined by weight loss >1% per week). Those with reduced nutritional status were more likely to be discharged to higher level care (adjusted OR 2.46, 95% CI [1.27-4.70]). This study is the first to characterise malnourished hospitalised older adults in Singapore. It is also one of the very few studies to (a) evaluate the association of admission malnutrition with clinical outcomes in a multivariate model; (b) determine the change in their nutritional status during admission; and (c) evaluate the validity of nutritional screening and assessment tools amongst hospitalised older adults in an Asian population. Results clearly highlight that admission malnutrition and deterioration in nutritional status are prevalent and are associated with adverse clinical outcomes in hospitalised older adults. With older adults being vulnerable to risks and consequences of malnutrition, it is important that they are systematically screened so timely and appropriate intervention can be provided. The findings highlighted in this thesis provide an evidence base for, and confirm the validity of the current nutrition screening and assessment tools used among hospitalised older adults in Singapore. As the older adults may have developed malnutrition prior to hospital admission, or experienced clinically significant weight loss of >1% per week of hospitalisation, screening of the elderly should be initiated in the community and continuous nutritional monitoring should extend beyond hospitalisation.