Luxury fashion: The role of innovation as a key contributing factor in the development of luxury fashion goods and sustainable fashion design

Luxury is a quality that is difficult to define as the historical concept of luxury appears to be both dynamic and culturally specific. The everyday definition explains a ‘luxury’ in relation to a necessity: a luxury (product or service) is defined as something that consumers want rather than need. However, the growth of global markets has seen a boom in what are now referred to as ‘luxury brands’. This branding of products as luxury has resulted in a change in the way consumers understand luxury goods and services. In their attempts to characterize a luxury brand, Fionda & Moore in their article “The anatomy of a Luxury Brand” summarize a range of critical conditions that are in addition to product branding “... including product and design attributes of quality, craftsmanship and innovative, creative and unique products” (Fionda & Moore, 2009). For the purposes of discussing fashion design however, quality and craftsmanship are inseparable while creativity and innovation exist under different conditions. The terms ‘creative’ and ‘innovative’ are often used inter-changeably and are connected with most descriptions of the design process, defining ‘design’ and ‘fashion’ in many cases. Christian Marxt and Fredrik Hacklin identify this condition in their paper “Design, product development, innovation: all the same in the end?”(Marxt & Hacklin, 2005) and suggest that design communities should be aware that the distinction between these terms, whilst once quite definitive, is becoming narrow to a point where they will mean the same thing. In relation to theory building in the discipline this could pose significant problems. Brett Richards (2003) identifies innovation as different from creativity in that innovation aims to transform and implement rather than simply explore and invent. Considering this distinction, in particular relation to luxury branding, may affect the way in which design can contribute to a change in the way luxury fashion goods might be perceived in a polarised fashion market, namely suggesting that ‘luxury’ is what consumers need rather than the ‘pile it high, sell it cheap’ fashion that the current market dynamic would indicate they want. This paper attempts to explore the role of innovation as a key contributing factor in luxury concepts, in particular the relationship between innovation and creativity, the conditions which enable innovation, the role of craftsmanship in innovation and design innovation in relation to luxury fashion products. An argument is presented that technological innovation can be demonstrated as a common factor in the development of luxury fashion product and that the connection between designer and maker will play an important role in the development of luxury fashion goods for a sustainable fashion industry.

Digital dawn : a revolution in movie distribution?

How will the digital technology revolution impact the movie business? Hollywood developed a highly successful industrial system that has functioned well for almost a century in the sense that it enabled the Major film studios to largely control and dominate the industry. However, the new digital technology may now be propelling Hollywood toward the biggest technological transition since the creation of the studio system almost a century ago. For example, Major Hollywood studios are already beginning to provide video-on-demand (VOD) digital distribution of movies over the Internet. This article examines what is happening, and why. It sets out the background and the incipient changes already occurring. It makes an argument regarding the fundamental strategic dynamics, that acetate film was the key to the control of the Hollywood system, and speculates about how a shift away from acetate film to digital video may transform that system. The focus is on the impact on how the Major studios release and market their movies, and how new market and marketing opportunities for the low-budget independent filmmaking sector may arise.

Introducing action research as a vehicle to bring about change to a psychiatric nursing curriculum in Taiwan

The focus of this study is on curriculum change within a School of Nursing in Taiwan where there is a growing demand for educational reform in order to meet the new accreditation standards and demands of the Taiwan Nursing Accreditation Council (TNAC). The aim of this study was to transform the Psychiatric Nursing curriculum in ways that are empowering, generative and sustainable. This study introduced Action Research as a vehicle to bring about curriculum transformation. I conceptualised a framework to guide the transformation process based on the notions of learner-centredness, conceptual change, pedagogical knowledge, reflection, collaboration, reculturing and empowerment. The Action Plan was developed in accordance with the conceptual framework, and was developed in five steps through which team members explored and became aware of our conceptions of teaching and learning, and then planned and implemented actions to change our curriculum, and examined and reflected on the curriculum transformation. The study demonstrated the value of working collaboratively to solve educational problems. This study also suggested that experiential knowledge, when shared and integrated with theoretical knowledge, can constructively contribute to all aspects of curriculum transformation. This study further supported the value of including clinical facilitators in the development and transformation of curricula. It confirmed that academics and clinical facilitators can work together to create new learning for students. This study is significant for both practical and political reasons. Its practical significance lies in its direct utility to the learners and teachers who were involved in the study. The political significance lies in the potential of the study to lead to further changes or improvements in other, similar contexts. The study is limited in that any interpretations cannot be generalised to other contexts. However, what emerged adds to the body of knowledge in such a way that it would constitute the basis for better informed educational practice.

Benchmarking local E-Government

Increasingly, almost everything we do in our daily lives is being influenced by information and communications technologies (ICTs) including the Internet. The task of governance is no exception with an increasing number of national, state, and local governments utilizing ICTs to support government operations, engage citizens, and provide government services. As with other things, the process of governance is now being prefixed with an “e”. E-governance can range from simple Web sites that convey basic information to complex sites that transform the customary ways of delivering all sorts of government services. In this respect local e-government is the form of e-governance that specifically focuses on the online delivery of suitable local services by local authorities. In practice local e-government reflects four dimensions, each one dealing with the functions of government itself. The four are: (a) e-services, the electronic delivery of government information, programs, and services often over the Internet; (b) e-management, the use of information technology to improve the management of government. This might range from streamlining business processes to improving the flow of information within government departments; (c) e-democracy the use of electronic communication vehicles, such as e-mail and the Internet, to increase citizen participation in the public decision-making process; (d) e-commerce, the exchange of money for goods and services over the Internet which might include citizens paying taxes and utility bills, renewing vehicle registrations, and paying for recreation programs, or government buying office supplies and auctioning surplus equipment (Cook, LaVigne, Pagano, Dawes, & Pardo, 2002). Commensurate with the rapid increase in the process of developing e-governance tools, there has been an increased interest in benchmarking the process of local e-governance. This benchmarking, which includes the processes involved in e-governance as well as the extent of e-governance adoption or take-up is important as it allows for improved processes and enables government agencies to move towards world best practice. It is within this context that this article discusses benchmarking local e-government. It brings together a number of discussions regarding the significance of benchmarking, best practices and actions for local e-government, and key elements of a successful local e-government project.

Empirical analysis of freeway traffic oscillation : its safety impact and evolution

Traffic oscillations are typical features of congested traffic flow that are characterized by recurring decelerations followed by accelerations. However, people have limited knowledge on this complex topic. In this research, 1) the impact of traffic oscillations on freeway crash occurrences has been measured using the matched case-control design. The results consistently reveal that oscillations have a more significant impact on freeway safety than the average traffic states. 2) Wavelet Transform has been adopted to locate oscillations' origins and measure their characteristics along their propagation paths using vehicle trajectory data. 3) Lane changing maneuver's impact on the immediate follower is measured and modeled. The knowledge and the new models generated from this study could provide better understanding on fundamentals of congested traffic; enable improvements to existing traffic control strategies and freeway crash countermeasures; and instigate people to develop new operational strategies with the objective of reducing the negative effects of oscillatory driving.

Characterisation of organoclays and adsorption of p-nitrophenol : environmental application

Organoclays were synthesised through ion exchange of a single surfactant for sodium ions, and characterised by a range of method including X-ray diffraction (XRD), BET, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), and transmission electron microscopy (TEM). The change in surface properties of montmorillonite and organoclays intercalated with the surfactant, tetradecyltrimethylammonium bromide (TDTMA) were determined using XRD through the change in basal spacing and the expansion occurred by the adsorbed p-nitrophenol. The changes of interlayer spacing were observed in TEM. In addition, the surface measurement such as specific surface area and pore volume was measured and calculated using BET method, this suggested the loaded surfactant is highly important to determine the sorption mechanism onto organoclays. The collected results of XPS provided the chemical composition of montmorillonite and organoclays, and the high-resolution XPS spectra offered the chemical states of prepared organoclays with binding energy. Using TGA and FT-IR, the confirmation of intercalated surfactant was investigated. The collected data from various techniques enable an understanding of the changes in structure and surface properties. This study is of importance to provide mechanisms for the adsorption of organic molecules, especially in contaminated environmental sites and polluted waters.

On the empirical eigenvalue distribution of slotted amplify-and-forward relaying protocol model

In this paper we consider the case of large cooperative communication systems where terminals use the protocol known as slotted amplify-and-forward protocol to aid the source in its transmission. Using the perturbation expansion methods of resolvents and large deviation techniques we obtain an expression for the Stieltjes transform of the asymptotic eigenvalue distribution of a sample covariance random matrix of the type HH† where H is the channel matrix of the transmission model for the transmission protocol we consider. We prove that the resulting expression is similar to the Stieltjes transform in its quadratic equation form for the Marcenko-Pastur distribution.

A hybrid approach for resolving the electromagnetic fields inside a waveguide loaded with a lossy medium

In this work a novel hybrid approach is presented that uses a combination of both time domain and frequency domain solution strategies to predict the power distribution within a lossy medium loaded within a waveguide. The problem of determining the electromagnetic fields evolving within the waveguide and the lossy medium is decoupled into two components, one for computing the fields in the waveguide including a coarse representation of the medium (the exterior problem) and one for a detailed resolution of the lossy medium (the interior problem). A previously documented cell-centred Maxwell’s equations numerical solver can be used to resolve the exterior problem accurately in the time domain. Thereafter the discrete Fourier transform can be applied to the computed field data around the interface of the medium to estimate the frequency domain boundary condition in-formation that is needed for closure of the interior problem. Since only the electric fields are required to compute the power distribution generated within the lossy medium, the interior problem can be resolved efficiently using the Helmholtz equation. A consistent cell-centred finite-volume method is then used to discretise this equation on a fine mesh and the underlying large, sparse, complex matrix system is solved for the required electric field using the iterative Krylov subspace based GMRES iterative solver. It will be shown that the hybrid solution methodology works well when a single frequency is considered in the evaluation of the Helmholtz equation in a single mode waveguide. A restriction of the scheme is that the material needs to be sufficiently lossy, so that any penetrating waves in the material are absorbed.

Inciting the social imagination to realising the dream : An unfolding story of reform in a low-socioeconomic school

This paper presentation addresses design-based research that became a catalyst for social change among a disadvantaged school community. The aim of the longitudinal research was to protoype an evidence-based model for whole school digital and print literacy pedagogy renewal among students from low socioeconomic, Indigenous, and migrant backgrounds. Applying Anthony Gidden’s principle of the “duality of structure”, the paper presentation interprets how the collective agency of researchers and the school community began to transform the structural properties of the institution in a two-way dynamism, so that the structural properties of the school were not outside of individual action, but were implicated in its reproduction and transformation.

High performance additive manufactured scaffolds for bone tissue engineering application

This study demonstrates the feasibility of additive manufactured poly(3-caprolactone)/silanized tricalcium phosphate (PCL/TCP(Si)) scaffolds coated with carbonated hydroxyapatite (CHA)-gelatin composite for bone tissue engineering. In order to reinforce PCL/TCP scaffolds to match the mechanical properties of cancellous bone, TCP has been modified with 3-glycidoxypropyl trimethoxysilane (GPTMS) and incorporated into PCL to synthesize a PCL/TCP(Si) composite. The successful modification is confirmed by X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) analysis. Additive manufactured PCL/TCP(Si) scaffolds have been fabricated using a screw extrusion system (SES). Compression testing demonstrates that both the compressive modulus and compressive yield strength of the developed PCL/TCP(Si) scaffolds fall within the lower ranges of mechanical properties for cancellous bone, with a compressive modulus and compressive yield strength of 6.0 times and 2.3 times of those of PCL/TCP scaffolds, respectively. To enhance the osteoconductive property of the developed PCL/TCP(Si) scaffolds, a CHA-gelatin composite has been coated onto the scaffolds via a biomimetic co-precipitation process, which is verified by using scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and XPS. Confocal laser microscopy and SEM images reveal a most uniform distribution of porcine bone marrow stromal cells (BMSCs) and cellsheet accumulation on the CHA-gelatin composite coated PCL/TCP(Si) scaffolds. The proliferation rate of BMSCs on the CHA-gelatin composite coated PCL/TCP(Si) scaffolds is 2.0 and 1.4 times higher compared to PCL/TCP(Si) and CHA coated PCL/TCP(Si) scaffolds, respectively, by day 10. Furthermore, the reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) and western blot analyses reveal that CHA-gelatin composite coated PCL/TCP(Si) scaffolds stimulate osteogenic differentiation of BMSCs the most compared to the other scaffolds. In vitro results of SEM, confocal microscopy and proliferation rate also show that there is no detrimental effect of GPTMS modification on biocompatibility of the scaffolds.

Synthesis and characterisation of hybrid gold/polymer nanoparticles for bioassay application

A bioassay technique, based on surface-enhanced Raman scattering (SERS) tagged gold nanoparticles encapsulated with a biotin functionalised polymer, has been demonstrated through the spectroscopic detection of a streptavidin binding event. A methodical series of steps preceded these results: synthesis of nanoparticles which were found to give a reproducible SERS signal; design and synthesis of polymers with RAFT-functional end groups able to encapsulate the gold nanoparticle. The polymer also enabled the attachment of a biotin molecule functionalised so that it could be attached to the hybrid nanoparticle through a modular process. Finally, the demonstrations of a positive bioassay for this model construct using streptavidin/biotin binding. The synthesis of silver and gold nanoparticles was performed by using tri-sodium citrate as the reducing agent. The shape of the silver nanoparticles was quite difficult to control. Gold nanoparticles were able to be prepared in more regular shapes (spherical) and therefore gave a more consistent and reproducible SERS signal. The synthesis of gold nanoparticles with a diameter of 30 nm was the most reproducible and these were also stable over the longest periods of time. From the SERS results the optimal size of gold nanoparticles was found to be approximately 30 nm. Obtaining a consistent SERS signal with nanoparticles smaller than this was particularly difficult. Nanoparticles more than 50 nm in diameter were too large to remain suspended for longer than a day or two and formed a precipitate, rendering the solutions useless for our desired application. Gold nanoparticles dispersed in water were able to be stabilised by the addition of as-synthesised polymers dissolved in a water miscible solvent. Polymer stabilised AuNPs could not be formed from polymers synthesised by conventional free radical polymerization, i.e. polymers that did not possess a sulphur containing end-group. This indicated that the sulphur-containing functionality present within the polymers was essential for the self assembly process to occur. Polymer stabilization of the gold colloid was evidenced by a range of techniques including, visible spectroscopy, transmission electron microscopy, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, thermogravimetric analysis and Raman spectroscopy. After treatment of the hybrid nanoparticles with a series of SERS tags, focussing on 2-quinolinethiol the SERS signals were found to have comparable signal intensity to the citrate stabilised gold nanoparticles. This finding illustrates that the stabilization process does not interfere with the ability of gold nanoparticles to act as substrates for the SERS effect. Incorporation of a biotin moiety into the hybrid nanoparticles was achieved through a =click‘ reaction between an alkyne-functionalised polymer and an azido-functionalised biotin analogue. This functionalized biotin was prepared through a 4-step synthesis from biotin. Upon exposure of the surface-bound streptavidin to biotin-functionalised polymer hybrid gold nanoparticles, then washing, a SERS signal was obtained from the 2-quinolinethiol which was attached to the gold nanoparticles (positive assay). After exposure to functionalised polymer hybrid gold nanoparticles without biotin present then washing a SERS signal was not obtained as the nanoparticles did not bind to the streptavidin (negative assay). These results illustrate the applicability of the use of SERS active functional-polymer encapsulated gold nanoparticles for bioassay application.

A restrike waveform predictive model for shunt capacitor bank switching with point-on-wave recommendation

Circuit-breakers (CBs) are subject to electrical stresses with restrikes during capacitor bank operation. Stresses are caused by the overvoltages across CBs, the interrupting currents and the rate of rise of recovery voltage (RRRV). Such electrical stresses also depend on the types of system grounding and the types of dielectric strength curves. The aim of this study is to demonstrate a restrike waveform predictive model for a SF6 CB that considered the types of system grounding: grounded and non-grounded and the computation accuracy comparison on the application of the cold withstand dielectric strength and the hot recovery dielectric strength curve including the POW (point-on-wave) recommendations to make an assessment of increasing the CB remaining life. The simulation of SF6 CB stresses in a typical 400 kV system was undertaken and the results in the applications are presented. The simulated restrike waveforms produced with the identified features using wavelet transform can be used for restrike diagnostic algorithm development with wavelet transform to locate a substation with breaker restrikes. This study found that the hot withstand dielectric strength curve has less magnitude than the cold withstand dielectric strength curve for restrike simulation results. Computation accuracy improved with the hot withstand dielectric strength and POW controlled switching can increase the life for a SF6 CB.