Nourishing or polluting : redefining the role of waste in the fashion system

Waste is intrinsic to the fashion system. Fashion is predicated on built-in obsolescence, and as such outmoded garments are rapidly discarded to charity shops or landfill. However, the story of fashion is also one of abundance and extravagance in design ideas. Every season there are new design details – prints, embroidery, embellishments, shapes and textures. This excess of ideas is in itself another form of waste, albeit one that is culturally nourishing. The grave of a fashion garment may also be the grave of a season’s research and creativity. This paper compares the tangible waste of the industry with its intangible waste, namely fashion’s creativity and cultural excess. Fashion’s excess and abundance of trends and ideas makes any move to curb the environmental impact difficult. For all practitioners of fashion – whether designers or consumers – the waste and excess inherent in the fashion system is a difficult ethical terrain to negotiate. However, inverting the wasteful phases of the production cycle can help reframe waste from pollution to a source of nourishment for future practice. While creative excesses of designers may be ‘wasted’ after a season, fashion styles and tropes are recycled and reinvented, with the once passé styles and design ideas from previous years revalorized and returned into the fashion system. Similarly, material garments acquire new value through entering or re-entering the second hand or vintage markets. Design processes can utilise pre or post-consumer textile waste, or eliminate waste through design. In these processes, waste becomes the primary source of nourishment for future fashion cycles.

The grow-shrink-and-turncoat

This reversible garment, the grow-shrink-and-turncoat, is constructed in modules which allow it to be extended or tightened depending on the wearer. Later, it can be disassembled and then reassembled to form a new garment. The laser-cut holes allow for layers of cloth to be added or removed. The design was developed in part from a brainstorming activity with first and second year QUT students – their ideas included a garment which can be taken apart, a garment to fit many people, and most intriguingly, a garment that can open and ‘grow’ like a flower, swelling up in cold weather to warm the body. Taking these ideas, I developed a garment which can be disassembled, with layers added or subtracted by the wearer according to aesthetics and / or comfort. The shell is constructed from six squares of laser cut cloth, draped together with six smaller laser-cut rectangles, held in place with removable stitching. Additional squares and rectangles of cloth can be added / subtracted with ties knotted through the laser-cut holes. The laser cutting becomes a patterning device as well as integral to the construction of the garment. Conceptually, the garment is grounded in the notion of fabric as a precious resource – the pieces are designed to be disassembled at end-of-life, and then reconfigured into a fresh design.

Food consumption of Sri Lankan adults : an appraisal of serving characteristics

Objective The main aim of the present study was to identify food consumption in Sri Lankan adults based on serving characteristics. Design Cross-sectional study. Fruits, vegetables, starch, meat, pulses, dairy products and added sugars in the diet were assessed with portion sizes estimated using standard methods. Setting Twelve randomly selected clusters from the Sri Lanka Diabetes and Cardiovascular Study. Subjects Six hundred non-institutionalized adults. Results The daily intake of fruit (0·43), vegetable (1·73) and dairy (0·39) portions were well below national recommendations. Only 3·5 % of adults consumed the recommended 5 portions of fruits and vegetables/d; over a third of the population consumed no dairy products and fewer than 1 % of adults consumed 2 portions/d. In contrast, Sri Lankan adults consumed over 14 portions of starch and 3·5 portions of added sugars daily. Almost 70 % of those studied exceeded the upper limit of the recommendations for starch intake. The total daily number of meat and pulse portions was 2·78. Conclusions Dietary guidelines emphasize the importance of a balanced and varied diet; however, a substantial proportion of the Sri Lankan population studied failed to achieve such a recommendation. Nutrition-related diseases in the country may be closely correlated with unhealthy eating habits.

The 'variety effect' is anticipated in meal planning

The 'variety effect' describes the greater consumption that is observed when multiple foods with different sensory characteristics are presented either simultaneously or sequentially. Variety increases the amount of food consumed in test of ad libitum intake. However, outside the laboratory, meals are often planned in advance and then consumed in their entirety. We sought to explore the extent to which the variety effect is anticipated in this pre-meal planning. Participants were shown two food images, each representing a first or a second course of a hypothetical meal. The two courses were either, i) exactly the same food, ii) different foods from the same sensory category (sweet or savoury) or, iii) different foods from a different sensory category. In Study 1 (N = 30) these courses comprised typical ‘main meal’ foods and in Study 2 (N = 30) they comprised snack foods. For each pair of images, participants rated their expected liking of the second course and selected ideal portion sizes, both for the second course and the first and second course, combined. In both studies, as the difference between the courses (from (i) same to (ii) similar to (iii) different) increased, the second course was selected in a larger portion and it was rated as more pleasant. To our knowledge, these are the first studies to show that the variety effect is evident in the energy content of self-selected meals. This work shows that effects of variety are learned and anticipated. This extends our characterisation beyond a passive process that develops towards the end of a meal.

NOS1AP is associated with increased severity of PTSD and depression in untreated combat veterans

Background Post traumatic stress disorder (PTSD) and depressive disorder are over represented in combat veterans. Veterans with both disorders have an increased risk of suicide. The nitric oxide synthase 1 adaptor protein (NOS1AP) gene, which modulates stress-evoked N-methyl-D-aspartate (NMDA) activity, was investigated in combat veterans. Methods A comprehensive genetic analysis of NOS1AP and its association with PTSD was investigated in Vietnam combat veterans with PTSD (n=121) and a group of healthy control individuals (n=237). PTSD patients were assessed for symptom severity and level of depression using the Mississippi Scale for Combat-Related PTSD and the Beck Depression Inventory-II (BDI). Results The G allele of NOS1AP SNP rs386231 was significantly associated with PTSD (p = 0.002). Analysis of variance revealed significant differences in BDI-II and Mississippi scores between genotypes for rs386231 with the GG genotype associated with increased severity of depression (p = 0.002 F = 6.839) and higher Mississippi Scale for Combat-Related PTSD scores (p = 0.033). Haplotype analysis revealed that the C/G haplotype (rs451275/rs386231) was significantly associated with PTSD (p = 0.001). Limitations The sample sizes in our study were not sufficient to detect SNP associations with very small effects. In addition the study was limited by its cross sectional design. Conclusions This is the first study reporting that a variant of the NOS1AP gene is associated with PTSD. Our data also suggest that a genetic variant in NOS1AP may increase the susceptibility to severe depression in patients with PTSD and increased risk for suicide.

Estimating the probability of an invalid match for matching using the rank transform

A fundamental problem faced by stereo matching algorithms is the matching or correspondence problem. A wide range of algorithms have been proposed for the correspondence problem. For all matching algorithms, it would be useful to be able to compute a measure of the probability of correctness, or reliability of a match. This paper focuses in particular on one class for matching algorithms, which are based on the rank transform. The interest in these algorithms for stereo matching stems from their invariance to radiometric distortion, and their amenability to fast hardware implementation. This work differs from previous work in that it derives, from first principles, an expression for the probability of a correct match. This method was based on an enumeration of all possible symbols for matching. The theoretical results for disparity error prediction, obtained using this method, were found to agree well with experimental results. However, disadvantages of the technique developed in this chapter are that it is not easily applicable to real images, and also that it is too computationally expensive for practical window sizes. Nevertheless, the exercise provides an interesting and novel analysis of match reliability.

Mineralogy of chondritic interplanetary dust particles

From a mineralogical survey of approximately 30 chondritic micrometeorites collected from the lower stratosphere and studied in detail using current electron microscopy techniques, it is concluded that these particles represent a unique group of extraterrestrial materials. These micrometeorites differ significantly in form and texture from components of carbonaceous chondrites and contain some mineral assemblages which do not occur in any meteorite class. Electron microscope investigations of chondritic micrometeorites have established that these materials (1) are extraterrestrial in origin, (2) existed in space as small objects, (3) endured minimal alteration by planetary processes since formation, and (4) can suffer minimal pulse heating (<600°C) on entering earth's atmosphere. The probable sources for chondritic interplanetary dust particles (IDPs) are cometary and asteroidal debris and, perhaps to a lesser extent, interstellar regions. These sources have not been conclusively linked to any specific mineralogical subset of IDP, although the chondritic porous (CP) aggregate is considered of likely cometary origin. Chondritic IDPs occur in two predominant mineral assemblages: (1) carbonaceous phases and phyllosilicates and (2) carbonaceous phases and nesosilicates or inosilicates, although particles with both types of silicate assemblages are observed. Olivines, pyroxenes, layer silicates, and carbon-rich phases are the most commonly occurring minerals in many chondritic IDPs. Other phases often observed in variable proportions include sulphides, spinels, metals, metal carbides, carbonates, and minor amounts of sulphates and phosphates. Individual mineral grain sizes range from micrometers (primarily pyroxenes and olivines) to nanometers, with the predominant size for all phases less than 100 nm. Specific mineral characteristics for particular chondritic IDPs provide an indication of processes which may have occurred prior to collection in the earth's stratosphere. For example, pyroxene mineralogy in some chondritic aggregates is consistent with condensation from a vapor phase and, we consider, with condensation in a turbulent solar nebula at relatively low temperatures (<1000°C). Carbonaceous phases present in other CP aggregates have been used to imply low-temperature formation processes such as Fischer-Tropsch synthesis (∼530°C) or carbonization and graphitization (∼315°C). Alteration processes have been implicated in the formation of some layer silicates in CP aggregates and may have involved hydrocryogenic alteration at <0°C. In general, interpretations of transformation processes on submicrometer-size minerals in chondritic IDPs are consistent with formation at a radius equivalent to the asteroid belt or greater during the later stages of solar nebula evolution using currently available models.

The clay-size fraction of CI chondrites Alais and Orgueil : an AEM study

CI chondrites are used pervasively in the meteorite literature as a cosmochemical reference point for bulk compositions[1], isotope analyses[2] and, within certain models of meteorite evolution, as an important component of an alteration sequence within the carbonaceous chondrite subset[3]. More recently, the chemical variablity of CI chondrite matrices (which comprise >80% of the meteorite), has been cited in discussions about the "chondritic" nature of spectroscopic data from P/comet Halley missions[4] and of chemical data from related materials such as interplanetary dust particles[5]. Most CI chondrites have been studied as bulk samples(e.g. major and trace element abundances)and considerable effort has also been focussed on accessory phases such as magnetites, olivine, sulphates and carbonates [6-8]. A number of early studies showed that the primary constituents of CI matrices are layer silicates and the most definitive structural study on powdered samples identified two minerals: montmorillonite and serpentine[9]. In many cases, as with the study by Bass[9],the relative scarcity of most CI chondrites restricts such bulk analyses to the Orgueil meteorite. The electron microprobe/SEM has been used on petrographic sections to more precisely define the "bulk" composition of at least four CI matrices[3], and as recently summarised by McSween[3], these data define a compositional trend quite different to that obtained for CM chondrite matrices. These "defocussed-beam" microprobe analyses average major element compositions over matrix regions ~lOOµm in diameter and provide only an approximation to silicate mineral composition(s) because their grain sizes are much less than the diameter of the beam. In order to (a) more precisely define the major element compositions of individual mineral grains within CI matrices, and (b)complement previous TEM studies [11,12], we have undertaken an analytical electron microscopy (AEM) study of Alais and Orgueil matrices.

Micrinite in Southern Hemisphere sub-bituminous and bituminous coals : redefined as fine grained kaolinite

A range of complementary analytical techniques including SEM/EDS, TEM/EDS and conventional optical microscopy has been rigorously applied to precisely defined areas of micrinite in polished coal samples from Australia and New Zealand. Elemental analyses of micrinite regions showed a high abundance of Al, Si and O and high resolution images of micrinite revealed a grain size < 1μm. Electron diffraction and elemental analyses from individual grains within the optically and electron-optically correlated micrinite regions are consistent with the occurence of fine-grained kaolinite. The optical properties of "dark clay" and "micrinite" (i.e. fine-grained kaolinite) can be understood in terms of the diffuse scattering of visible light from the surfaces of materials with different grain sizes in single-phase or multi-phase mixtures.

Do thermal agents affect range of movement and mechanical properties in soft tissues? A systematic review

OBJECTIVES: To examine the effect of thermal agents on the range of movement (ROM) and mechanical properties in soft tissue and to discuss their clinical relevance. DATA SOURCES: Electronic databases (Cochrane Central Register of Controlled Trials, MEDLINE, and EMBASE) were searched from their earliest available record up to May 2011 using Medical Subjects Headings and key words. We also undertook related articles searches and read reference lists of all incoming articles. STUDY SELECTION: Studies involving human participants describing the effects of thermal interventions on ROM and/or mechanical properties in soft tissue. Two reviewers independently screened studies against eligibility criteria. DATA EXTRACTION: Data were extracted independently by 2 review authors using a customized form. Methodologic quality was also assessed by 2 authors independently, using the Cochrane risk of bias tool. DATA SYNTHESIS: Thirty-six studies, comprising a total of 1301 healthy participants, satisfied the inclusion criteria. There was a high risk of bias across all studies. Meta-analyses were not undertaken because of clinical heterogeneity; however, effect sizes were calculated. There were conflicting data on the effect of cold on joint ROM, accessory joint movement, and passive stiffness. There was limited evidence to determine whether acute cold applications enhance the effects of stretching, and further evidence is required. There was evidence that heat increases ROM, and a combination of heat and stretching is more effective than stretching alone. CONCLUSIONS: Heat is an effective adjunct to developmental and therapeutic stretching techniques and should be the treatment of choice for enhancing ROM in a clinical or sporting setting. The effects of heat or ice on other important mechanical properties (eg, passive stiffness) remain equivocal and should be the focus of future study.

Adaptive sizing of populations and number of islands in distributed genetic algorithms

Deciding the appropriate population size and number of is- lands for distributed island-model genetic algorithms is often critical to the algorithm’s success. This paper outlines a method that automatically searches for good combinations of island population sizes and the number of islands. The method is based on a race between competing parameter sets, and collaborative seeding of new parameter sets. This method is applicable to any problem, and makes distributed genetic algorithms easier to use by reducing the number of user-set parameters. The experimental results show that the proposed method robustly and reliably finds population and islands settings that are comparable to those found with traditional trial-and-error approaches.

Experimental studies of the shear behavior and strength of LiteSteel beams with stiffened web openings

Abstract: LiteSteel beam (LSB) is a new cold-formed steel hollow flange channel section produced using a patented manufacturing process. It is commonly used as flexural members in residential, industrial and commercial buildings. Current practice in flooring systems is to include openings in the web element of floor joists or bearers so that building services can be located within them. Test results have shown that the shear capacity of LSBs can be reduced considerably by the inclusion of web openings. A cost effective method of eliminating the detrimental effects of a large web opening is to attach suitable stiffeners around the web openings of LSBs. A detailed experimental study consisting of 17 shear tests was therefore undertaken to investigate the shear behaviour and strength of LSBs with stiffened circular web openings. Both plate and stud stiffeners with varying sizes and thicknesses were attached to the web elements of LSBs using a number of screw-fastening arrangements in order to develop a suitable stiffening arrangement for LSBs. Simply supported test specimens of LSBs with an aspect ratio of 1.5 were loaded at mid-span until failure. This paper presents the details of this experimental study of LSBs with stiffened web openings, and the results of their shear capacities and associated behavioural characteristics. Suitable screw-fastened plate stiffener arrangements have been recommended in order to restore the original shear capacity of LSBs.

Suitable stiffening systems for LiteSteel beams with web openings subjected to shear

Abstract: LiteSteel beam (LSB) is a new cold-formed steel hollow flange channel section produced using a simultaneous cold-forming and dual electric resistance welding process. It is commonly used as floor joists and bearers with web openings in residential, industrial and commercial buildings. Their shear strengths are considerably reduced when web openings are included for the purpose of locating building services. A cost effective method of eliminating the detrimental effects of a large web opening is to attach suitable stiffeners around the web openings of LSBs. Experimental and numerical studies were undertaken to investigate the shear behaviour and strength of LSBs with circular web openings reinforced using plate, stud, transverse and sleeve stiffeners with varying sizes and thicknesses. Both welding and varying screw-fastening arrangements were used to attach these stiffeners to the web of LSBs. Finite element models of LSBs with stiffened web openings in shear were developed to simulate their shear behaviour and strength of LSBs. They were then validated by comparing the results with experimental test results and used in a detailed parametric study. These studies have shown that plate stiffeners were the most suitable, however, their use based on the current American standards was found to be inadequate. Suitable screw-fastened plate stiffener arrangements with optimum thicknesses have been proposed for LSBs with web openings to restore their original shear capacity. This paper presents the details of the numerical study and the results.

Comparison of PCR, nested PCR, and random amplified polymorphic DNA PCR for detection and typing of Ureaplasma urealyticum in specimens from pregnant women

A PCR assay, using three primer pairs, was developed for the detection of Ureaplasma urealyticum, parvo biovar, mba types 1, 3, and 6, in cultured clinical specimens. The primer pairs were designed by using the polymorphic base positions within a 310- to 311-bp fragment of the 5* end and upstream control region of the mba gene. The specificity of the assay was confirmed with reference serovars 1, 3, 6, and 14 and by the amplified-fragment sizes (81 bp for mba 1, 262 bp for mba 3, and 193 bp for mba 6). A more sensitive nested PCR was also developed. This involved a first-step PCR, using the primers UMS-125 and UMA226, followed by the nested mba-type PCR described above. This nested PCR enabled the detection and typing of small numbers of U. urealyticum cells, including mixtures, directly in original clinical specimens. By using random amplified polymorphic DNA (RAPD) PCR with seven arbitrary primers, we were also able to differentiate the two biovars of U. urealyticum and to identify 13 RAPD-PCR subtypes. By applying these subtyping techniques to clinical samples collected from pregnant women, we established that (i) U. urealyticum is often a persistent colonizer of the lower genital tract from early midtrimester until the third trimester of pregnancy, (ii) mba type 6 was isolated significantly more often (P 5 0.048) from women who delivered preterm than from women who delivered at term, (iii) no particular ureaplasma subtype(s) was associated with placental infections and/or adverse pregnancy outcomes, and (iv) the ureaplasma subtypes most frequently isolated from women were the same subtypes most often isolated from infected placentas.

Atmospheric deposition as a source of heavy metals in urban stormwater

Atmospheric deposition is one of the most important pathways of urban stormwater pollution. Atmospheric deposition which can be in the form of either wet or dry deposition have distinct characteristics in terms of associated particulate sizes, pollutant types and influential parameters. This paper discusses the outcomes of a comprehensive research study undertaken to identify important traffic characteristics and climate factors such as antecedent dry period and rainfall characteristics which influences the characteristics of wet and dry deposition of solids and heavy metals. The outcomes confirmed that Zinc (Zn) is correlated with traffic volume whereas Lead (Pb), Cadmium (Cd), Nickel (Ni), and Copper (Cu) are correlated with traffic congestion. Consequently, reducing traffic congestion will be more effective than reducing traffic volume for improving air quality particularly in relation to Pb, Cd, Ni, and Cu. Zn was found to have the highest atmospheric deposition rate compared to other heavy metals. Zn in dry deposition is associated with relatively larger particle size fractions (>10 µm), whereas Pb, Cd, Ni and Cu are associated with relatively smaller particle size fractions (<10 µm). The analysis further revealed that bulk (wet plus dry) deposition which is correlated with rainfall depth and contains a relatively higher percentage of smaller particles compared to dry deposition which is correlated with the antecedent dry period. As particles subjected to wet deposition are smaller, they disperse over a larger area from the source of origin compared to particles subjected to dry deposition as buoyancy forces become dominant for smaller particles compared to the influence of gravity. Furthermore, exhaust emission particles were found to be primarily associated with bulk deposition compared to dry deposition particles which mainly originate from vehicle component wear.