Fashion communication: a way to change comsumption behaviour towards ethical fashion

In view of the major social and environmental problems, with which we are faced nowadays, we noticed a certain absence of values in society, where man draws many more resources than nature can replace in the short or medium term. Within the framework of fashion emerges the ethical fashion as a movement in this direction, intending to change this current paradigm. Ethical fashion encompasses different concepts such as fair trade, sustainability, working conditions, raw materials, social responsibility and the protection of animals. This study aims to determine which type of communication are fashion brands using in this context, and if this communication aims at educating the consumer for a more ethical consumer behavior. For this study were selected 44 fashion brands associated with the Ethical Trade Initiative. The method used for the research development was content analysis for which first was made a data collection of the information provided on the websites and social networks of the selected fashion brands. The data was analyzed taking into account the quality and type of information published related to ethical fashion, for which an ordinal scale was created as a way of measuring and comparing results.

Thermal–mechanical behaviour of chitosan–cellulose derivative thermoreversible hydrogel films

CH, Chitosan; HPMC, (Hydroxypropyl)methyl cellulose; FT, Freeze-thaw; SC, Solvent casting; CH:HPMC (X:Y), pH Z, FT/SC, Chitosan and (hydroxypropyl)methyl cellulose hydrogel, at X and Y proportion (0-100), at Z pH (3.0-4.0) and prepared by freeze-thaw or solvent casting techniques; DSC, Differential scanning calorimetry; MDSC, Temperature modulated Differential scanning calorimetry; Tg, glass transition temperature; ΔH, enthalpy change; TGA, Thermogravimetric Analysis; TG, Thermogravimetry; DTG, Derivative or Differential thermogravimetry; σ, Tensile strength; ε, elongation at break; DMA, Dynamic mechanical analysis; X-Ray, X-radiation, FTIR-ATR, Attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy; SEM, Scanning electron microscopy.

Erratum to: Thermal–mechanical behaviour of chitosan–cellulose derivative thermoreversible hydrogel films

CH, Chitosan; HPMC, (Hydroxypropyl)methyl cellulose; FT, Freeze-thaw; SC, Solvent casting; CH:HPMC (X:Y), pH Z, FT/SC, Chitosan and (hydroxypropyl)methyl cellulose hydrogel, at X and Y proportion (0-100), at Z pH (3.0-4.0) and prepared by freeze-thaw or solvent casting techniques; DSC, Differential scanning calorimetry; MDSC, Temperature modulated Differential scanning calorimetry; Tg, glass transition temperature; ΔH, enthalpy change; TGA, Thermogravimetric Analysis; TG, Thermogravimetry; DTG, Derivative or Differential thermogravimetry; σ, Tensile strength; ε, elongation at break; DMA, Dynamic mechanical analysis; X-Ray, X-radiation, FTIR-ATR, Attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy; SEM, Scanning electron microscopy.

Biological behaviour of thin films consisting of Au nanoparticles dispersed in a TiO2 dielectric matrix

In this work it was studied the possible use of thin films, composed of Au nanoparticles (NPs) embedded in a TiO2 matrix, in biological applications, by evaluating their interaction with a well-known protein, Bovine Serum Albumin (BSA), as well as with microbial cells (Candida albicans). The films were produced by one-step reactive DC magnetron sputtering followed by heat-treatment. The samples revealed a composition of 8.3 at.% of Au and a stoichiometric TiO2 matrix. The annealing promoted grain size increase of the Au NPs from 3 nm (at 300 °C) to 7 nm (at 500 °C) and a progressive crystallization of the TiO2 matrix to anatase. A broad localized surface plasmon resonance (LSPR) absorption band (λ = 580–720 nm) was clearly observed in the sample annealed at 500 °C, being less intense at 300 °C. The biological tests indicated that the BSA adhesion is dependent on surface nanostructure morphology, which in turn depends on the annealing temperature that changed the roughness and wettability of the films. The Au:TiO2 thin films also induced a significant change of the microbial cell membrane integrity, and ultimately the cell viability, which in turn affected the adhesion on its surface. The microstructural changes (structure, grain size and surface morphology) of the Au:TiO2 films promoted by heat-treatment shaped the amount of BSA adhered and affected cell viability.

Experimental and numerical studies of hybrid PCM embedded in plastering mortar for enhanced thermal behaviour of buildings

This paper proposes a methodology for improvement of energy efficiency in buildings through the innovative simultaneous incorporation of three distinct phase change materials (here termed as hybrid PCM) in plastering mortars for façade walls. The thermal performance of a hybrid PCM mortar was experimentally evaluated by comparing the behaviour of a prototype test cell (including hybrid PCM plastering mortar) subjected to realistic daily temperature profiles, with the behaviour of a similar prototype test cell, in which no PCM was added. A numerical simulation model was employed (using ANSYS-FLUENT) to validate the capacity of simulating temperature evolution within the prototype containing hybrid PCM, as well as to understand the contribution of hybrid PCM to energy efficiency. Incorporation of hybrid PCM into plastering mortars was found to have the potential to significantly reduce heating/cooling temperature demands for maintaining the interior temperature within comfort levels when compared to normal mortars (without PCM), or even mortars comprising a single type of PCM.

Incorporation of hybrid phase change materials in plastering mortars for increased energy efficiency in buildings

Tese de Doutoramento em Engenharia Civil.

The influence of fibre orientation on the post-cracking tensile behaviour of steel fibre reinforced self-compacting concrete

Adding fibres to concrete provides several advantages, especially in terms of controlling the crack opening width and propagation after the cracking onset. However, distribution and orientation of the fibres toward the active crack plane are significantly important in order to maximize its benefits. Therefore, in this study, the effect of the fibre distribution and orientation on the post-cracking tensile behaviour of the steel fibre reinforced self-compacting concrete (SFRSCC) specimens is investigated. For this purpose, several cores were extracted from distinct locations of a panel and were subjected to indirect (splitting) and direct tensile tests. The local stress-crack opening relationship (σ-w) was obtained by modelling the splitting tensile test under the finite element framework and by performing an Inverse Analysis (IA) procedure. Afterwards the σ-w law obtained from IA is then compared with the one ascertained directly from the uniaxial tensile tests. Finally, the fibre distribution/orientation parameters were determined adopting an image analysis technique.

Sustainable mortars with incorporation of microencapsulated phase change materials

The construction industry is responsible for high energy and raw materials consumption. Thus, it is important to minimize the high energy consumption by taking advantage of renewable energy sources and reusing industrial waste, decreasing the extraction of natural materials. The mortars with incorporation of phase change materials (PCM) have the ability to regulate the temperature inside buildings, contributing to the thermal comfort and reduction of the use of heating and cooling equipment, using only the energy supplied by the sun. The simultaneous incorporation of PCM and fly ash (FA) can reduce the energy consumption and the amount of materials landfilled. However, the addition of these materials in mortars modifies its characteristics. The main purpose of this study was the production and characterization in the fresh and hardened state of mortars with incorporation of different contents of PCM and FA. The binders studied were aerial lime, hydraulic lime, gypsum and cement. The proportion of PCM studied was 0%, 20%, 40% and 60% of the mass of the sand. The content of fly ash added to the mortars was 0%, 20%, 40% and 60% of the mass of the binder. It was possible to observe that the incorporation of PCM and fly ash in mortars caused differences in properties such as workability, microstructure, water absorption, compressive strength, flexural strength and adhesion.

Assessing the feasibility of impregnating phase change materials in lightweight aggregate for development of thermal energy storage systems

This paper assesses the feasibility of impregnation/encasement of phase change materials (PCMs) in lightweight aggregates (LWAs). An impregnation process was adopted to carry out the encasement study of two different PCMs in four different LWAs. The leakage of the impregnated/encased PCMs was studied when they were submitted to freeze/thawing and oven drying tests, separately. The results confirmed that, the impregnation/encasement method is effective with respect to the large thermal energy storage density, and can be suitable for applications were PCMs cannot be incorporated directly such as asphalt road pavements.

A FEM-based model to study the behaviour of corroded RC beams shear repaired by NSM CFRP rods technique

This paper presents the main features of finite element FE numerical model developed using the computer code FEMIX to predict the near-surface mounted NSM carbon-fiber-reinforced polymer CFRP rods shear repair contribution to corroded reinforced concrete RC beams. In the RC beams shear repaired with NSM technique, the Carbon Fibre Reinforced Polymer (CFRP) rods are placed inside pre-cut grooves onto the concrete cover of the RC beam’s lateral faces and are bonded to the concrete with high epoxy adhesive. Experimental and 3D numerical modelling results are presented in this paper in terms of load-deflection curves, and failure modes for 4 short corroded beams: two corroded beams (A1CL3-B and A1CL3-SB) and two control beams (A1T-B and A1T-SB), the beams noted with B were let repaired in bending only with NSM CFRP rods while the ones noted with SB were repaired in both bending and shear with NSM technique. The corrosion of the tensile steel bars and its effect on the shear capacity of the RC beams was discussed. Results showed that the FE model was able to capture the main aspects of the experimental load-deflection curves of the RC beams, moreover it has presented the experimental failure modes and FE numerical modelling crack patterns and both gave similar results for non-shear repaired beams which failed in diagonal tension mode of failure and for shear-repaired beams which failed due to large flexural crack at the middle of the beams along with the concrete crushing, three dimensional crack patterns were produced for shear-repaired beams in order to investigate the splitting cracks occurred at the middle of the beams and near the support.

Behaviour of a dovetail joint solved using force analyses

Dovetail joints are one of the most cornrnonly used joints during Gothic and Baroque periods. Despite being coristructed in the sarne way during the ages, there is no analyticai solution available to help its analysis and design so required in reconstruction works of existing timber structures. An analytical solution based on the principie of virtual works under different types of loading is presented in this paper as weli as differences in bearing capacity of the joint for chosen types of loading, when different wood species are used. The accuracy of the presented solution is confirrned by data obtained from experimental tests of scaied modeis of a dovetail joint.

Numerical simulation of the punching shear behaviour of self-compacting fibre reinforced flat slabs

This paper presents the numerical simulations of the punching behaviour of centrally loaded steel fibre reinforced self-compacting concrete (SFRSCC) flat slabs. Eight half scaled slabs reinforced with different content of hooked-end steel fibres (0, 60, 75 and 90 kg/m3) and concrete strengths of 50 and 70 MPa were tested and numerically modelled. Moreover, a total of 54 three-point bending tests were carried out to assess the post-cracking flexural tensile strength. All the slabs had a relatively high conventional flexural reinforcement in order to promote the occurrence of punching failure mode. Neither of the slabs had any type of specific shear reinforcement rather than the contribution of the steel fibres. The numerical simulations were performed according to the Reissner-Mindlin theory under the finite element method framework. Regarding the classic formulation of the Reissner-Mindlin theory, in order to simulate the progressive damage induced by cracking, the shell element is discretized into layers, being assumed a plane stress state in each layer. The numerical results are, then, compared with the experimental ones and it is possible to notice that they accurately predict the experimental force-deflection relationship. The type of failure observed experimentally was also predicted in the numerical simulations.

Time-dependent flexural behaviour of cracked steel fibre reinforced self-compacting concrete panels

In the present work are described and discussed the results of an extensive experimental program that aims to study the long-term behaviour of cracked steel fibre reinforced self-compacting concrete, SFRSCC, applied in laminar structures. In a first stage, the influence of the initial crack opening level (wcr = 0.3 and 0.5 mm), applied stress level, fibre orientation/dispersion and distance from the casting point, on the flexural creep behaviour of SFRSCC was investigated. Moreover, in order to evaluate the effects of the creep phenomenon on the residual flexural strength, a series of monotonic tests were also executed. It was found that wcr = 0.5 mm series showed a higher creep coefficient comparing to the series with a lower initial crack opening. Furthermore, the creep performance of the SFRSCC was influenced by the orientation of the extracted prismatic specimens regarding the direction of the concrete flow within the cast panel.

A FEM-based model to study the behaviour of corroded RC beams shear repaired by NSM CFRP rods technique

This paper presents the main features of finite element FE numerical model developed using the computer code FEMIX to predict the near-surface mounted NSM carbon-fiber-reinforced polymer CFRP rods shear repair contribution to corroded reinforced concrete RC beams. In the RC beams shear repaired with NSM technique, the Carbon Fibre Reinforced Polymer (CFRP) rods are placed inside pre-cut grooves onto the concrete cover of the RC beam’s lateral faces and are bonded to the concrete with high epoxy adhesive. Experimental and 3D numerical modelling results are presented in this paper in terms of load-deflection curves, failure modes and slip information of the tensile steel bars for 4 short corroded beams: two corroded beams (A1CL3-B and A1CL3-SB) and two control beams (A1T-B and A1T-SB), the beams noted with B were let repaired in bending only with NSM CFRP rods while the ones noted with SB were repaired in both bending and shear with NSM technique. The corrosion of the tensile steel bars and its effect on the shear capacity of the RC beams was discussed. Results showed that the FE model was able to capture the main aspects of the experimental load-deflection curves of the RC beams, moreover it has presented the experimental failure modes and FE numerical modelling crack patterns and both gave similar results for non-shear repaired beams which failed in diagonal tension mode of failure and for shear-repaired beams which failed due to large flexural crack at the middle of the beams along with the concrete crushing, three dimensional crack patterns were produced for shear-repaired beams in order to investigate the splitting cracks occurred at the middle of the beams and near the support.