Contribution to an efficient transmission of information to the textile fashion consumer and the influence in sustainable attitudes

The concepts involved in sustainable textile fashion, demanding good knowledge about raw materials, processes, end use properties and circuits amongst others, are able to determine the way the textile product is designed and the behavior of the consumer, regarding life style and buying decisions. The textile product`s life integrates raw materials, their processing, distribution, use by the consumer and destination of the product after useful lifetime, this is, his complete life cycle. It is very important to recognize the power of the consumer to influence parameters related to sustainability, namely when he decides how, when and why he buys and afterwards by the attitudes taken during and after use. The conscious act of consumption involves ethical, ecological and technical knowledge in which the concern is overall lifecycle of the fashion product and not exclusively aesthetic and symbolic values strongly related with its ephemeral nature. The present work proposes the classification of textile products by means of an innovative label aiming to establish a rating related to the Life of Fashion Products, by using parameters considered with especial impact in lifecycle, as textile fibers, processing conditions, generated wastes, commercialization circuits, durability and cleaning procedures. This label for sustainable fashion products aims to assist the stakeholders with informed attitudes and correct decisions in order to promote the objectives of sustainable fashion near designers, consumers and industrial experts.

Caracterização de materiais plásticos usados na indústria têxtil e de vestuário por FTIR

Dissertação de mestrado em Técnicas de Caracterização e Análises Químicas

Enzymatic processing of protein-based fibers

Wool and silk are major protein fiber materials used by the textile industry. Fiber protein structure-function relationships are briefly described here, and the major enzymatic processing routes for textiles and other novel applications are deeply reviewed. Fiber biomodification is described here with various classes of enzymes such as protease, transglutaminase, tyrosinase, and laccase. It is expected that the reader will get a perspective on the research done as a basis for new applications in other areas such as cosmetics and pharma.

Development of biomimetic microengineered hydrogel fibers for tendon regeneration

Musculoskeletal diseases are one of the leading causes of disability worldwide. Tendon injuries are responsible for substantial morbidity, pain and disability. Tissue engineering strategies aim at translating tendon structure into biomimetic materials. The main goal of the present study is to develop microengineered hydrogel fibers through the combination of microfabrication and chemical interactions between oppositely charged polyelectrolytes. For this, methacrylated hyaluronic acid (MeHA) and chondroitin sulfate (MeCS) were combined with chitosan (CHT). Hydrogel fibers were obtained by injecting polymer solutions (either MeHA or MeHA/MeCS and CHT) in separate microchannels that join at a y-junction, with the materials interacting upon contact at the interface. To evaluate cell behavior, human tendon derived cells (hTDCs) were isolated from tendon surplus samples during orthopedic surgeries and seeded on top of the fibers. hTDCs adhered to the surface of the fibers, remaining viable, and were found to be expressing CD44, the receptor for hyaluronic acid. The synthesis of hydrogel fibers crosslinkable through both physical and chemical mechanisms combined with microfabrication technology allows the development of biomimetic structures with parallel fibers being formed towards the replication of tendon tissue architecture.

Tensile and bond characterization of natural fibers embeeded in inorganic matrices

Innovative composite materials made of continuous fibers embedded in mortar matrices have been recently received attention for externally bonded reinforcement of masonry structures. In this regards, application of natural fibers for strengthening of the repair mortars is attractive due to their low specific weight, sustainability and recycability. This paper presents experimental characterization of tensile and pull-out behavior of natural fibers embedded in two different mortar-based matrices. A lime-based and a geopolymeric-based mortar are used as sustainable and innovative matrices. The obtained experimental results and observations are presented and discussed.

Evaluation of the performance of recycled textile fibres in the mechanical behaviour of a gypsum and cork composite material

Given the need for using more sustainable constructive solutions, an innovative composite material based on a combination of distinct industrial by-products is proposed aiming to reduce waste and energy consumption in the production of construction materials. The raw materials are thermal activated flue-gas desulphurization (FGD) gypsum, which acts as a binder, granulated cork as the aggregate and recycled textile fibres from used tyres intended to reinforce the material. This paper presents the results of the design of the composite mortar mixes, the characterization of the key physical properties (density, porosity and ultrasonic pulse velocity) and the mechanical validation based on uniaxial compressive tests and fracture energy tests. In the experimental campaign, the influence of the percentage of the raw materials in terms of gypsum mass, on the mechanical properties of the composite material was assessed. It was observed that the percentage of granulated cork decreases the compressive strength of the composite material but contributes to the increase in the compressive fracture energy. Besides, the recycled textile fibres play an important role in the mode I fracture process and in the fracture energy of the composite material, resulting in a considerable increase in the mode I fracture energy.

Step towards of a homemade business intelligence solution: A case study in textile industry

Nowadays, organizations are increasingly looking to invest in business intelligence solutions, mainly private companies in order to get advantage over its competitors, however they do not know what is necessary. Business intelligence allows an analysis of consolidated information in order to obtain more specific outlets and certain indications in order to support the decision making process. You can take the right decision based on the data collected from different information systems present in the organization and outside of them. The textile sector is a sector where concept of Business Intelligence it is not many explored yet. Actually there are few textile companies that have a BI platform. Thus, the article objective is present an architecture and show all the steps by which companies need to spend to implement a successful free homemade Business Intelligence system. As result the proposed approach it was validated using real data aiming assess the steps defined.

The role of ascorbate peroxidase, guaiacol peroxidase, and polysaccharides in cassava (Manihot esculenta Crantz) roots under postharvest physiological deterioration

Abstract This study aimed to investigate the role of ascorbate peroxidase (APX), guaiacol peroxidase (GPX), polysaccharides, and protein contents associated with the early events of postharvest physiological deterioration (PPD) in cassava roots. Increases in APX and GPX activity, as well as total protein contents occurred from 3 to 5 days of storage and were correlated with the delay of PPD. Cassava samples stained with periodic acid-Schiff (PAS) highlighted the presence of starch and cellulose. Degradation of starch granules during PPD was also detected. Slight metachromatic reaction with toluidine blue is indicative of increasing of acidic polysaccharides and may play an important role in PPD delay. Principal component analysis (PCA) classified samples according to their levels of enzymatic activity based on the decision tree model which showed GPX and total protein amounts to be correlated with PPD. The Oriental (ORI) cultivar was more susceptible to PPD.

Degradation of all-inkjet-printed organic thin-film transistors with TIPS-pentacene under processes applied in textile manufacturing

Printed electronics represent an alternative solution for the manufacturing of low-temperature and large area flexible electronics. The use of inkjet printing is showing major advantages when compared to other established printing technologies such as, gravure, screen or offset printing, allowing the reduction of manufacturing costs due to its efficient material usage and the direct-writing approach without requirement of any masks. However, several technological restrictions for printed electronics can hinder its application potential, e.g. the device stability under atmospheric or even more stringent conditions. Here, we study the influence of specific mechanical, chemical, and temperature treatments usually appearing in manufacturing processes for textiles on the electrical performance of all-inkjet-printed organic thin-film transistors (OTFTs). Therefore, OTFTs where manufactured with silver electrodes, a UV curable dielectric, and 6,13-bis(triisopropylsilylethynyl) pentance (TIPS-pentacene) as the active semiconductor layer. All the layers were deposited using inkjet printing. After electrical characterization of the printed OTFTs, a simple encapsulation method was applied followed by the degradation study allowing a comparison of the electrical performance of treated and not treated OTFTs. Industrial calendering, dyeing, washing and stentering were selected as typical textile processes and treatment methods for the printed OTFTs. It is shown that the all-inkjet-printed OTFTs fabricated in this work are functional after their submission to the textiles processes but with degradation in the electrical performance, exhibiting higher degradation in the OTFTs with shorter channel lengths (L=10 μm).

Study of the potential employment of Malvaceae Species in composites materials

The employ of vegetal fibers for textiles and composites represents a great potential in economic and social sustainable development. Some Malvaceae species are considered tropical cosmopolitans, such as from Sida genus. Several species of this genus provide excellent textile bast fibers, which are very similar in qualities to the jute textile fiber. The objective of the present study is present the physicochemical characterization of six Brazilian vegetal fibers: Sida rhombifolia L.; Sida carpinifolia L. f.; Sidastrum paniculatum (L.) Fryxell; Sida cordifolia L.; Malvastrum coromandelianum (L.) Gurck; Wissadula subpeltata (Kuntze) R.E.Fries. Respectively the two first species are from Brazilian Atlantic Forest biome and the four remaining from Brazilian Cerrado biome, despite of present in other regions of the planet. The stems of these species were retted in water at 37oC for 20 days. The fibers were tested in order to determine tensile rupture strength, tenacity, elongation, Young’s modulus, cross microscopic structure, Scanning Electronic Microscopy (SEM), regain, combustion, acid, alkali, organic solvent and cellulase effects, pH of the aqueous extract, Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) and Thermogravimetric Analysis (TGA). The obtained values were compared with those from fibers of recognized applicability in the textile industry including hemp. The results are promising in terms of their employment in thermoset and thermoplastic medium resistance composites.

Towards high performance and multi-functional structural membranes using advanced fibrous and textile materials

Scientific and technological advancements in the area of fibrous and textile materials have greatly enhanced their application potential in several high-end technical and industrial sectors including construction, transportation, medical, sports, aerospace engineering, electronics and so on. Excellent performance accompanied by light-weight, mechanical flexibility, tailor-ability, design flexibility, easy fabrication and relatively lower cost are the driving forces towards wide applications of these materials. Cost-effective fabrication of various advanced and functional materials for structural parts, medical devices, sensors, energy harvesting devices, capacitors, batteries, and many others has been possible using fibrous and textile materials. Structural membranes are one of the innovative applications of textile structures and these novel building skins are becoming very popular due to flexible design aesthetics, durability, lightweight and cost benefits. Current demand on high performance and multi-functional materials in structural applications has motivated to go beyond the basic textile structures used for structural membranes and to use innovative textile materials. Structural membranes with self-cleaning, thermoregulation and energy harvesting capability (using solar cells) are examples of such recently developed multi-functional membranes. Besides these, there exist enormous opportunities to develop wide varieties of multi-functional membranes using functional textile materials. Additionally, it is also possible to further enhance the performance and functionalities of structural membranes using advanced fibrous architectures such as 2D, 3D, hybrid, multi-layer and so on. In this context, the present paper gives an overview of various advanced and functional fibrous and textile materials which have enormous application potential in structural membranes.

Data supporting the role of enzymes and polysaccharides during cassava postharvest physiological deterioration

This data article is referred to the research article entitled The role of ascorbate peroxidase, guaiacol peroxidase, and polysaccharides in cassava (Manihot esculenta Crantz) roots under postharvest physiological deterioration by Uarrota et al. (2015). Food Chemistry 197, Part A, 737746. The stress duo to PPD of cassava roots leads to the formation of ROS which are extremely harmful and accelerates cassava spoiling. To prevent or alleviate injuries from ROS, plants have evolved antioxidant systems that include non-enzymatic and enzymatic defence systems such as ascorbate peroxidase, guaiacol peroxidase and polysaccharides. In this data article can be found a dataset called newdata, in RData format, with 60 observations and 06 variables. The first 02 variables (Samples and Cultivars) and the last 04, spectrophotometric data of ascorbate peroxidase, guaiacol peroxidase, tocopherol, total proteins and arcsined data of cassava PPD scoring. For further interpretation and analysis in R software, a report is also provided. Means of all variables and standard deviations are also provided in the Supplementary tables (data.long3.RData, data.long4.RData and meansEnzymes.RData), raw data of PPD scoring without transformation (PPDmeans.RData) and days of storage (days.RData) are also provided for data analysis reproducibility in R software.

Bombyx mori Silk Fibers: An outstanding family of materials

Designing novel multifunctional materials from natural resources is a challenging goal that has increasingly attracted researchers. Recently, the great potential of silk fibers has been recognized. The target readers for this review are researchers from different backgrounds (i.e., non-specialists in silk research) with special interests on the physical–chemical characterization of silk fibers, since their knowledge is crucial for the improvement of existent silk-based biomaterials and the basis for the development of new products. Examples of usual applications of Bombyx mori silk fibers are given and some of the most recent and exciting progress in new technological fields, is presented.

Silk fibroin based multifunctional materials

Silk fibroin is a commonly available natural biopolymer produced in specialized glands of arthropods, such as silkworms or spiders, scorpions, mites, bees and flies. This biopolymer has a long history of use in textile production and also as sutures or treatment of skin wounds. Silk fibroin has been increasingly explored in other areas of biomedical science where we can find a higher morphological diversification of silk biomaterials like films, electrospun fibers, 3D porous scaffolds or nanoparticles. In recent years it has been demonstrated that fibroin is an excellent material for active components in optical devices. This new application opens the way towards the development of multifunctional optoelectronic devices, which in perspective can be made fully biocompatible and eventually bioresorbable. Moreover, fibroin can be added to other biocomponents in order to modify the biomaterial properties leading to optimized and total different functions. These improvements can go from higher cell adhesion in tissue engineering or enhanced optical transparency, smoothness or flexibility in optoelectronic devices. The tuning and completely understanding of silk fibers physicochemical properties and interaction with other elements are of crucial importance for the improvement of already existent silk-based materials and the basis for the development of new products.

Lithium-doped silk fibroin films for application in electrochromic devices

Silk fibroin (SF) is a commonly available natural biopolymer produced in specialized glands of arthropods, with a long history of use in textile production and also in health cares. The exceptional intrinsic properties of these fibers, such as self-assembly, machinability, biocompatibility, biodegradation or non-toxicity, offer a wide range of exciting opportunities [1]. It has long been recognized that silk can be a rich source of inspiration for designing new materials with tailored properties, enhanced performance and high added value for targeted applications, opening exciting new prospects in the domain of materials science and related technological fields, including bio-friendly integration, miniaturization and multifunctionalization. In recent years it has been demonstrated that fibroin is an excellent material for active components in optics and photonics devices. Progress in new technological fields such as optics, photonics and electronics are emerging [2,3]. The incorporation of polymer electrolytes as components of various devices (advanced batteries, smart windows, displays and supercapacitors) offers significant advantages with respect to traditional electrolytes, including enhanced reliability and improved safety. SF films are particularly attractive in this context. They have near-perfect transparency across the VIS range, surface flatness (together with outstanding mechanical robustness), ability to replicate patterned substrates and their thickness may be easily tailored from a few nanometers to hundreds of micrometers through spin-casting of a silk solution into subtract. Moreover, fibroin can be added to other biocomponents or salts in order to modify the biomaterial properties leading to optimized and total different functions. Preliminary tests performed with a prototype electrochromic device (ECD) incorporating SF films doped with lithium triflate and lithium tetrafluoroborate (LiTFSI and LiBF4, respectively) as electrolyte and WO3 as cathodic electrochromic layer, are extremely encouraging. Aiming to evaluate the performance of the ion conducting SF membranes doped with LiTFSI and LiBF4 (SF-Li), small ECDs with glass/ITO/WO3/SF-Li/CeO2-TiO2/ITO/glass configuration were assembled and characterized. The device exhibited, after 4500 cycles, the insertion of charge at -3.0 V reached –1.1 mC.cm-2 in 15 s. After 4500 cycles the window glass-staining, glass/ITO/WO3/Fibrin-Li salts electrolyte/CeO2-TiO2/ITO/glass configuration was reversible and featured a T  8 % at λ = 686 nm