The effects of solvent composition on the affinity of a peptide towards hair keratin: experimental and molecular dynamics data

The study of the interaction between hair filaments and formulations or peptides is of utmost importance in fields like cosmetic research. Keratin intermediate filaments structure is not fully described, limiting the molecular dynamics (MD) studies in this field although its high potential to improve the area. We developed a computational model of a truncated protofibril, simulated its behavior in alcoholic based formulations and with one peptide. The simulations showed a strong interaction between the benzyl alcohol molecules of the formulations and the model, leading to the disorganization of the keratin chains, which regress with the removal of the alcohol molecules. This behavior can explain the increase of peptide uptake in hair shafts evidenced in fluorescence microscopy pictures. The model developed is valid to computationally reproduce the interaction between hair and alcoholic formulations and provide a robust base for new MD studies about hair properties. It is shown that the MD simulations can improve hair cosmetic research, improving the uptake of a compound of interest.

Enzymatic phosphorylation of hair keratin enhances fast adsorption of cationic moieties

The current study describes the in vitro phosphorylation of a human hair keratin, using protein kinase for the first time. Phosphorylation of keratin was demonstrated by 31P NMR (Nuclear Magnetic Resonance) and Diffuse Reflectance Infrared Fourier Transform (DRIFT) techniques. Phosphorylation induced a 2.5 fold increase of adsorption capacity in the first 10 minutes for cationic moiety like Methylene Blue (MB). Thorough description of MB adsorption process was performed by several isothermal models. Reconstructed fluorescent microscopy images depict distinct amounts of dye bound to the differently treated hair. The results of this work suggest that the enzymatic phosphorylation of keratins might have significant implications in hair shampooing and conditioning, where short application times of cationic components are of prime importance.

In vitro phosphorylation as tool for modification of silk and keratin fibrous materials

An overview is given of the recent work on in vitro enzymatic phosphorylation of silk fibroin and human hair keratin. Opposing to many chemical "conventional" approaches, enzymatic phosphorylation is in fact a mild reaction and the treatment falls within "green chemistry" approach. Silk and keratin are not phosphorylated in vivo, but in vitro. This enzyme-driven modification is a major technological breakthrough. Harsh chemical chemicals are avoided, and mild conditions make enzymatic phosphorylation a real "green chemistry" approach. The current communication presents a novel approach stating that enzyme phosphorylation may be used as a tool to modify the surface charge of biocompatible materials such as keratin and silk.

Insights on the mechanical behavior of keratin fibrils

Supplementary data associated with this article can be found,in the online version, at http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2016.05.018.