Anthraquinones from the Fungus Dermocybe sanguinea as Textile Dyes

This study is based on the multidiciplinary approach of using natural colorants as textile dyes. The author was interested in both the historical and traditional aspects of natural dyeing as well as the modern industrial applications of the pure natural compounds. In the study, the anthraquinone compounds were isolated as aglycones from the ectomycorrhizal fungus Dermocybe sanguinea. The endogenous beta-glucosidase of the fungus was used to catalyse the hydrolysis of the O-glycosyl linkage in emodin- and dermocybin-1-beta-D-glucopyranosides. The method, in which 10.45 kg of fresh fungi was starting material, yielded two fractions: 56.0 g of Fraction 1 (94% of the total amount of pigment,) consisting almost exclusively of the main pigments emodin and dermocybin, and 3.3 g of Fraction 2 (6%) consisting mainly of the anthraquinone carboxylic acids. The anthraquinone compounds in Fractions 1 and 2 were separated by one- and two-dimensional thin-layer-chromatography (TLC) using silica plates. 1D TLC showed that neither an acidic nor a basic solvent system alone separated completely all the anthraquinones isolated from D. sanguinea, in spite of the variation of the rations of the solvent components in the systems. Thus, a new 2D TLC technique was developed, applying n-pentanol-pyridine-methanol (6:4:3, v/v/v) and toluene-ethyl acetate-ethanol-formic acid (10:8:1:2, v/v/v/v) as eluents. Fifteen different anthraquinone derivatives were completely separated from one another. Emodin, physcion, endocrocin, dermolutein, dermorubin, 5-chlorodermorubin, emodin-1-beta-D-glucopyranoside, dermocybin-1-beta-D-glucopyranoside and dermocybin, and five new compounds, not earlier identified in D. sanguinea, 7-chloroemodin, 5,7-dichloroemodin, 5,7-dichloroendocrocin, 4-hydroxyaustrocorticone and austrocorticone, were separated and identified on the basis of their Rf-values, UV/Vis spectra and mass spectra. One substance remained unidentified, because of its very low concentration. The anthraquinones in Fractions 1 and 2 were preparatively separeted by liquid-liquid partition, with isopropylmethyl ketone and aqueous phosphate buffer as the solvent system. Advantage was taken of the principle of stepwise pH-gradient elution. The multiple liquid-liquid partition (MLLP) offered an excellent method for the preparative separation of compounds, which contain acidic groups such as the phenolic OH and COOH groups. Due to their strong aggregation properties, these compounds are, without derivatization, very difficult to separate on a preparative scale by chromatographic methods. By the MLLP method remarkable separations were achieved for the components in each mixture. Emodin and dermocybin were both obtained from Fraction 1 in a purity of at least 99%. Pure emodin and dermocybin were applied as mordant dyes to wool and polyamide and as disperse dyes to polyester and polyamide, using the high temperature (HT) technique. A mixture of dermorubin and 5-chlorodermorubin was applied as an acid dye to wool. In these experiments, synthetic dyes were used as references. Experiments were also performed using water extract of the air-dried fungi as dye liquor for wool and silk. The main colouring compounds in the crude water extract were emodin and dermocybin, which indicated that the O-glycosyl linkages in emodin- and dermocybin-1-beta-D-glucopyranosides were broken by the beta-glucosidase enzyme. Apparently, the hydrolysis occurred during the drying of the fungi and during the soaking of the dried fruit bodies overnight when preparing the dyebath. The colour of each dyed material was investigated in terms of the CIELAB L*, a* and b* values, and the colour fastness to light, washing and rubbing was tested according to the ISO standards. In the mordant dyeing experiments, emodin dyed wool and polyamide yellow and red, depending on the pH of the dyebath. Dermocybin gave purple and violet colours. The colour fastness of the mordant-dyed fabrics varied from good to moderate. The fastness properties of the natural anthraquinone carboxylic acids on wool were good, indicating the strength of the ionic bonds between the COO- groups of the dyes and the NH3+ groups of the fibres. In the disperse dyeing experiments, emodin dyed polyester bright yellow and dermocybin bright reddish-orange, and the fabrics showed excellent colour fastness. In contrast, emodin and dermocybin successfully dyed polyamide brownish-orange and wine-red, respectively, but with only moderate fastness. In industrial dyeing processes, natural anthraquinone aglycone mixtures dyed wool and silk well even at low concentrations of mordants, i.e. with 10% of the weight of the fibre (owf) of KAl(SO4)2 and 1 or 0.5% owf of other mordants. This study showed that purified natural anthraquinone compounds can produce bright hues with good colour-fastness properties in different textile materials. Natural anthraquinones have a significant potential for new dyeing techniques and will provide useful alternatives to synthetic dyes.

The roughness and imaging characterisation of different pharmaceutical surfaces

The surface properties of solid state pharmaceutics are of critical importance. Processing modifies the surfaces and effects surface roughness, which influences the performance of the final dosage form in many different levels. Surface roughness has an effect on, e.g., the properties of powders, tablet compression and tablet coating. The overall goal of this research was to understand the surface structures of pharmaceutical surfaces. In this context the specific purpose was to compare four different analysing techniques (optical microscopy, scanning electron microscopy, laser profilometry and atomic force microscopy) in various pharmaceutical applications where the surfaces have quite different roughness scale. This was done by comparing the image and roughness analysing techniques using powder compacts, coated tablets and crystal surfaces as model surfaces. It was found that optical microscopy was still a very efficient technique, as it yielded information that SEM and AFM imaging are not able to provide. Roughness measurements complemented the image data and gave quantitative information about height differences. AFM roughness data represents the roughness of only a small part of the surface and therefore needs other methods like laser profilometer are needed to provide a larger scale description of the surface. The new developed roughness analysing method visualised surface roughness by giving detailed roughness maps, which showed local variations in surface roughness values. The method was able to provide a picture of the surface heterogeneity and the scale of the roughness. In the coating study, the laser profilometer results showed that the increase in surface roughness was largest during the first 30 minutes of coating when the surface was not yet fully covered with coating. The SEM images and the dispersive X-ray analysis results showed that the surface was fully covered with coating within 15 to 30 minutes. The combination of the different measurement techniques made it possible to follow the change of surface roughness and development of polymer coating. The optical imaging techniques gave a good overview of processes affecting the whole crystal surface, but they lacked the resolution to see small nanometer scale processes. AFM was used to visualize the nanoscale effects of cleaving and reveal the full surface heterogeneity, which underlies the optical imaging. Ethanol washing changed small (nanoscale) structure to some extent, but the effect of ethanol washing on the larger scale was small. Water washing caused total reformation of the surface structure at all levels.

Moderneja ryijyjä, metritavaraa ja käsityötä : Tekstiilitaide ja nykyaikaistuva taideteollisuus Suomessa maailmansotien välisenä aikana

Modern ryijys, fabric by the yard and handicrafts. Finnish textile art and modernizing applied art during the inter-war years Textile art was in the 1920s and 1930s in the front rank of Finnish applied art and design. Modern ryijys, tapestries and fabrics by the yard by contemporary textile artists were on show in Finland and abroad. Textile art had also become interesting commercially, especially in interior textiles of modern homes. The research uses sources of the Ornamo Association of Decorative Artists, for example the Ornamo year books published from 1927, the Finnish Society of Crafts and Design and the country s only school of applied arts, the Central School of Arts and Crafts and the Museum of Applied Arts maintained by the society and also the national specialist organisation the Friends of Finnish Handicraft. It also refers to the magazines Käsiteollisuus and Kotiliesi. The art historical dissertation studies the renaissance of weaving art of the inter-war years in Finland. It problematizes the relation of the succesfull and appreciated textile art to the concept of breakthrough of Modernism (Functionalism). With the material from textile artists activities it questions the prevailing idea of slow modernization of Finnish applied art and design and challenges the polarization of craft and industry in the discourses of Modernisms of design. The public discussions about modernization of design and applied art where textile art and especially the ryijy got sometimes into difficult positions are interpreted as power struggles. After taking independence in 1917 the Finnish tradition of ryijy rugs was set as a symbol of the original culture of the young nation. The research studies the development of the so called art ryijy and the notions and meanings of hand weaving in the national context and also in relation to contemporary events in international applied art and design. It highlights the continuity of hand crafted production of textiles and the strong position of textile artists working in this field. The research opens new perspectives to Finnish textile artists by showing their activities as entrepreneurs in their own weaving studios or design studios and referring to their many relations and functions as pattern designers and educators in the growing handicraft industries.

Collaborative Design in a Virtual Learning Environment : Three Design Experiments in Textile Teacher Education

The aim of the study was to analyze and facilitate collaborative design in a virtual learning environment (VLE). Discussions of virtual design in design education have typically focused on technological or communication issues, not on pedagogical issues. Yet in order to facilitate collaborative design, it is also necessary to address the pedagogical issues related to the virtual design process. In this study, the progressive inquiry model of collaborative designing was used to give a structural level of facilitation to students working in the VLE. According to this model, all aspects of inquiry, such as creating the design context, constructing a design idea, evaluating the idea, and searching for new information, can be shared in a design community. The study consists of three design projects: 1) designing clothes for premature babies, 2) designing conference bags for an international conference, and 3) designing tactile books for visually impaired children. These design projects constituted a continuum of design experiments, each of which highlighted certain perspectives on collaborative designing. The design experiments were organized so that the participants worked in design teams, both face-to-face and virtually. The first design experiment focused on peer collaboration among textile teacher students in the VLE. The second design experiment took into consideration end-users needs by using a participatory design approach. The third design experiment intensified computer-supported collaboration between students and domain experts. The virtual learning environments, in these design experiments, were designed to support knowledge-building pedagogy and progressive inquiry learning. These environments enabled a detailed recording of all computer-mediated interactions and data related to virtual designing. The data analysis was based on qualitative content analysis of design statements in the VLE. This study indicated four crucial issues concerning collaborative design in the VLE in craft and design education. Firstly, using the collaborative design process in craft and design education gives rise to special challenges of building learning communities, creating appropriate design tasks for them, and providing tools for collaborative activities. Secondly, the progressive inquiry model of collaborative designing can be used as a scaffold support for design thinking and for reflection on the design process. Thirdly, participation and distributed expertise can be facilitated by considering the key stakeholders who are related to the design task or design context, and getting them to participate in virtual designing. Fourthly, in the collaborative design process, it is important that team members create and improve visual and technical ideas together, not just agree or disagree about proposed ideas. Therefore, viewing the VLE as a medium for collaborative construction of the design objects appears crucial in order to understand and facilitate the complex processes in collaborative designing.

Physical characterization of plastic surfaces in wearing and cleanability research

Plastic surfaces are a group of materials used for many purposes. The present study was focused on methods for investigation of surface topography, wearing and cleanability of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) model surfaces and industrial plastic surfaces. Contact profilometry, scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and atomic force microscopy (AFM) are powerful methods for studying the topography of plastic surfaces. Although they have their own limitations, they are together an effective tool providing useful information on surface topography, especially when studying laboratory-made PVC model surfaces with known chemical compositions and structures. All examined laboratory-made PVC plastic surfaces examined in this work could be considered as smooth according to both AFM and profilometer measurements because height differences are in the nanoscale on every surface. Industrial plastic surfaces are a complex group of materials because of their chemical and topographical heterogeneity, but they are nevertheless important reference materials when developing cleaning and wearing methods. According to the results of this study the Soiling and Wearing Drum and the Frick-Taber methods are very useful when simulating three-body wearing of plastic surfaces. Both the investigated wearing methods can be used to compare the wearing of different plastic materials using appropriate evaluation methods of wearing and industrial use. In this study, physical methods were developed and adapted from other fields of material research to cleanability studies. The thesis focuses on the methodology for investigating the cleanability of plastic surfaces under realistic conditions, where surface topography and the effect of wear cleanability were among the major topics. A colorimetric method proved to be suitable for examining the cleanability of the industrial plastic surfaces. The results were utilized to evaluate the relationship between cleanability and the surface properties of plastic surfaces. The devices and methods used in the work can be utilized both in material research and product development.

Multiangular Spectrometry and Optical Properties of Debris Covered Surfaces

Due to the recent development in CCD technology aerial photography is now slowly changing from film to digital cameras. This new aspect in remote sensing allows and requires also new automated analysis methods. Basic research on reflectance properties of natural targets is needed so that computerized processes could be fully utilized. For this reason an instrument was developed at Finnish Geodetic Institute for measurement of multiangular reflectance of small remote sensing targets e.g. forest understorey or asphalt. Finnish Geodetic Institute Field Goniospectrometer (FiGIFiGo) is a portable device that is operated by 1 or 2 persons. It can be reassembled to a new location in 15 minutes and after that a target's multiangular reflectance can be measured in 10 - 30 minutes (with one illumination angle). FiGIFiGo has effective spectral range approximately from 400 nm to 2000 nm. The measurements can be made either outside with sunlight or in laboratory with 1000 W QTH light source. In this thesis FiGIFiGo is introduced and the theoretical basis of such reflectance measurements are discussed. A new method is introduced for extraction of subcomponent proportions from reflectance of a mixture sample, e.g. for retrieving proportion of lingonberry's reflectance in observation of lingonberry-lichen sample. This method was tested by conducting a series of measurements on reflectance properties of artificial samples. The component separation method yielded sound results and brought up interesting aspects in targets' reflectances. The method and the results still need to be verified with further studies, but the preliminary results imply that this method could be a valuable tool in analysis of such mixture samples.

Schiff Base Complexes and their Assemblies on Surfaces

Schiff bases and their transition metal complexes are of significant current interest even though they have been prepared for decades. They have been used in various applications such as catalysis, corrosion protection, and molecular sensors. In this study, N-aryl Schiff base ketimine ligands as well as numerous new, differently substituted salen and salophen-type ligands and their cobalt(II), copper(II), iron(II), manganese(II), and nickel(II) complexes were synthesised. New solid state structures of the above compounds and the dioxygen coordination properties of cobalt(II) complexes and catalytic properties of three synthesised binuclear complexes were examined. The prepared complexes were applied in the formation of self-assembled layers on a polycrystalline gold surface and liquid-graphite interface. The effect of metal ion and ligand structure on the as-formed patterns was studied. When studying gold surfaces, a unique thiol-assisted dissolution of elemental gold was observed and a new thin gold foil preparation method was introduced. In the summary, synthesis, structures, and properties of Schiff base ligands and their transition metal complexes are described in detail and the applications of these reviewed. Assemblies of other complexes on a liquid-graphite interface and on a gold surface are also presented, and the surface characterisation methods and surfaces employed are described.

The effects of stall surfaces and milk yield on the lying behavior of dairy cow

The importance of lying behavior to dairy cows and the feasible definition of lying has attracted many studies on the subject. Cattle show both behavioral and physiological stress responses when subjected to thwarting of their lying behavior. If cows are unable to lie down they later compensate for lost lying time when possible. Environmental factors such as housing and bedding systems have been noted to affect the time spent lying, but there is usually large variation in lying time between individuals. Internal factors such as the reproductive stage, age and health of cows affect their lying time and can cause variation. However, the effect of higher milk production on behavior has not previously been illuminated. The objective of this study was to provide data applicable for the improvement of resting conditions of cows. The preference of stall surface material, differences in normal behavior per unit time and various health measures were observed. The aim was to evaluate lying behavior and cow comfort on different stall bedding materials. In addition, the effect of milk yield on behavior was examined in a tie stall experiment. The preferences for surface materials were investigated in 5 experiments using 3 surface materials with bedding manipulations. According to the results, the cows preferred abundant straw bedding and soft rubber mats. However, they showed an aversion to sand bedding. Some individuals even refused to use stalls with sand when no organic bedding material was present. However, this study was unable to determine the reason for the avoidance, as neither the sand particle size nor thermal properties appeared critical. However, previous exposure to particular surface materials increased the preference for them. The amount of straw bedding was found to be an important factor affecting the preferences for stalls, and the lying time in stalls increased when the flooring softness was improved by applying straw or by installing elastic mats. Despite sand being the least preferred flooring material in preference tests, the health of legs improved during exposure to sand-floored stalls. Moreover cows using sand were cleaner than those that used straw stalls. Thus, sand bedding entailed some health benefits despite the contradictory results of preference tests, which more strongly reflected the perceptions of individual animals. Milk yield was observed to affect behavior by reducing the lying time, possibly due to factors other than longer duration of eating. High yielding cows seemed to intensify their lying bouts, as they were observed to lie with the neck muscles relaxed sooner after lying down than lower yielding cows. In conclusion, cows were found to prefer softer stall surface materials and organic bedding material. In addition, the lying time was reduced by a high milk yield, although the lying time seemed to be important for resting. Cows might differ in the needs for their lying environment. The management of dairy cows should eliminate any unnecessary prevention of lying, as even in tie-stalls high yielding cows seem to be affected by time constraints. Adding fresh bedding material to stalls increases the comfort of any stall flooring material.

Functional Surfaces for Microfluidics in Proteomic Analysis

Microchips for use in biomolecular analysis show a lot of promise for medical diagnostics and biomedical basic research. Among the potential advantages are more sensitive and faster analyses as well as reduced cost and sample consumption. Due to scaling laws, the surface are to volume ratios of microfluidic chips is very high. Because of this, tailoring the surface properties and surface functionalization are very important technical issues for microchip development. This thesis studies two different types of functional surfaces, surfaces for open surface capillary microfluidics and surfaces for surface assisted laser desorption ionization mass spectrometry, and combinations thereof. Open surface capillary microfluidics can be used to transport and control liquid samples on easily accessible open surfaces simply based on surface forces, without any connections to pumps or electrical power sources. Capillary filling of open partially wetting grooves is shown to be possible with certain geometries, aspect ratios and contact angles, and a theoretical model is developed to identify complete channel filling domains, as well as partial filling domains. On the other hand, partially wetting surfaces with triangular microstructures can be used for achieving directional wetting, where the water droplets do not spread isotropically, but instead only spread to a predetermined sector. Furthermore, by patterning completely wetting and superhydrophobic areas on the same surface, complex droplet shapes are achieved, as the water stretches to make contact with the wetting surface, but does not enter into the superhydrophobic domains. Surfaces for surface assisted laser desorption ionization mass spectrometry are developed by applying various active thin film coatings on multiple substrates, in order to separate surface and bulk effects. Clear differences are observed between both surface and substrate layers. The best performance surfaces consisted of amorphous silicon coating and an inorganic-organic hybrid substrate, with nanopillars and nanopores. These surfaces are used for matrix-free ionization of drugs, peptides and proteins, and for some analytes, the detection limits were in the high attomoles. Microfluidics and laser desorption ionization surfaces are combined on a functionalized drying platforms, where the surface is used to control the shape of the deposited analyte droplet, and the shape of the initial analyte droplet affects the dried droplet solute deposition pattern. The deposited droplets can then directly detected by mass spectrometry. Utilizing this approach, results of analyte concentration, splitting and separation are demonstrated.

Kestävästi vaihtuva muoti : Kestävän muodin mahdollisuudet ja haasteet vaatesuunnittelijan näkökulmasta

The concept of sustainable fashion covers not only the ecological and ethical matters in fashion and textile industries but also the cultural and social affairs, which are equally intertwined in this complex network. Sustainable fashion does not have one explicit or well-established definition; however, many researchers have discussed it from different perspectives. This study provides an overview of the principals, practices, possibilities, and challenges concerning sustainable fashion. It focuses particularly on the practical questions a designer faces. The aim of this study was to answer the following questions: What kind of outlooks and practices are included in sustainable fashion? How could the principles of sustainable fashion be integrated into designing and making clothes? The qualitative study was carried out by using the Grounded Theory method. Data consisted mainly of academic literature and communication with designers who practice sustainable fashion. In addition to these, several websites and journalistic articles were used. The data was analyzed by identifying and categorizing relevant concepts using the constant comparative method, i.e. examining the internal consistency of each category. The study established a core category, around which all other categories are integrated. The emerged concepts were organized into a model that pieces together different ideas about sustainable fashion, namely, when the principles of sustainable development are applied to fashion practices. The category named Considered Take and Return is the core of the model. It consists of various design philosophies that form the basis of design practice, and thus it relates to all other categories. It is framed by the category of Attachment and Appreciation, which reflects the importance of sentiment in design practice, for example the significance of aesthetics. The categories especially linked to fashion are Materials, Treatments of Fabrics and Production Methods. The categories closely connected with sustainable development are Saving Resources, Societal Implications, and Information Transparency. While the model depicts separate categories, the different segments are in close interaction. The objective of sustainable fashion is holistic and requires all of its sections to be taken into account.