Neulemallien muodikkuus : Näkyvätkö kansainväliset muotitrendit suomalaisten käsityölehtien neulemalleissa?

The aim of this work was to study, whether international fashion trends show in knit designs in Finnish craft magazines and how trends are modified. Women s knitted clothes and accessories in autumn winter season 2005 2006 were analyzed. Future research, trends, fashion, designing and knitting provides theoretical basis for this study. The trend material of this study came from Carlin Women s knitwear winter 2005 2006, which is fashion forecast for Women s knitwear. In addition to the trend book, I selected two international fashion magazines to reinforce this study. Fashion magazines were L´Officiel, 1000 models, Milan New York winter 05/06, No 52, April 2005 and Collezioni Donna, Prêt-à-porter autumn-winter 2005 2006, No 107. Finnish craft magazines in this study were MODA s issues 4/2005, 5/2005, 6/2005 and Novita s issues autumn 2005, winter 2005 and Suuri Käsityölehti s issues 8/2005, 9/2005, 10/2005. For the base of the analyze I took themes from the trend book. From fashion magazines I searched knitwear designs and these designs were sorted out by themes of trend book. To this trend and fashion material I compared knit designs from craft magazines. I analyzed how fashion trends show in knit designs and how they are modified. I also studied what features of trends were shown and which did not appear in knit designs of the craft magazines. For analyzing trend pictures and knit designs in craft magazines I applied qualitative content analysis and image analysis. According to the results of this research, effects of trend can be recognized in knit designs of craft maga-zines, although the fashion trends have been applied very discreetly. Knit designs were very similar re-gardless of magazine. The craft magazine data included approximately as many designs from Novita and MODA. In Suuri Käsityölehti provided only fifth of the designs data. There were also designs in MODA and Suuri Käsityölehti, which were made of Novita s yarns. This research material includes yarns of 15 different yarn manufacturers. Although half of all knit designs were knitted from Novita s yarn. There were 10 different yarns from Novita. Nevertheless Novita s yarn called Aino was the most popular. Finnish craft magazines have not respond to popularity of knitting. Magazines do not provide any novelty designs for knitters. Knit designs in Finnish craft magazines are usually practical basic designs without any innovativeness.

Weakening of the Gram-negative bacterial outer membrane - A tool for increasing microbiological safety

Gram-negative bacteria are harmful in various surroundings. In the food industy their metabolites are potential cause of spoilage and this group also includes many severe or potential pathogens, such as Salmonella. Due to their ability to produce biofilms Gram-negative bacteria also cause problems in many industrial processes as well as in clinical surroundings. Control of Gram-negative bacteria is hampered by the outer membrane (OM) in the outermost layer of the cells. This layer is an intrinsic barrier for many hydrophobic agents and macromolecules. Permeabilizers are compounds that weaken OM and can thus increase the activity of antimicrobials by facililating entry of hydrophobic compounds and macromolecules into the cell where they can reach their target sites and inhibit or destroy cellular functions. The work described in this thesis shows that lactic acid acts as a permeabilizer and destabilizes the OM of Gram-negative bacteria. In addition, organic acids present in berriers, i.e. malic, sorbic and benzoic acid, were shown to weaken the OM of Gram-negative bacteria. Organic acids can poteniate the antimicrobial activity of other compounds. Microbial colonic degradation products of plant-derived phenolic compounds (3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetic acid, 3-hydroxyphenylacetic acid, 3,4-dihydroxyphenylpropionic acid, 4-hydroxyphenylpropionic acid, 3-phenylpropionic acid and 3-hydroxyphenylpropionic acid) efficiently destabilized OM of Salmonella. The studies increase our understanding of the mechanism of action of the classical chelator, ethylenediaminetetra-acetic acid (EDTA). In addition, the results indicate that the biocidic activity of benzalkonium chloride against Pseudomonas can be increased by combined use with polyethylenimine (PEI). In addition to PEI, several other potential permeabilizers, such as succimer, were shown to destabilize the OM of Gram-negative bacteria. Furthermore, combination of the results obtained from various permeability assays (e.g. uptake of a hydrophobic probe, sensitization to hydrophobic antibiotics and detergents, release of lipopolysaccharide (LPS) and LPS-specific fatty acids) with atomic force microscopy (AFM) image results increases our knowledge of the action of permeabilizers.

Methods to improve gene signal: Application to cDNA microarrays

Microarrays are high throughput biological assays that allow the screening of thousands of genes for their expression. The main idea behind microarrays is to compute for each gene a unique signal that is directly proportional to the quantity of mRNA that was hybridized on the chip. A large number of steps and errors associated with each step make the generated expression signal noisy. As a result, microarray data need to be carefully pre-processed before their analysis can be assumed to lead to reliable and biologically relevant conclusions. This thesis focuses on developing methods for improving gene signal and further utilizing this improved signal for higher level analysis. To achieve this, first, approaches for designing microarray experiments using various optimality criteria, considering both biological and technical replicates, are described. A carefully designed experiment leads to signal with low noise, as the effect of unwanted variations is minimized and the precision of the estimates of the parameters of interest are maximized. Second, a system for improving the gene signal by using three scans at varying scanner sensitivities is developed. A novel Bayesian latent intensity model is then applied on these three sets of expression values, corresponding to the three scans, to estimate the suitably calibrated true signal of genes. Third, a novel image segmentation approach that segregates the fluorescent signal from the undesired noise is developed using an additional dye, SYBR green RNA II. This technique helped in identifying signal only with respect to the hybridized DNA, and signal corresponding to dust, scratch, spilling of dye, and other noises, are avoided. Fourth, an integrated statistical model is developed, where signal correction, systematic array effects, dye effects, and differential expression, are modelled jointly as opposed to a sequential application of several methods of analysis. The methods described in here have been tested only for cDNA microarrays, but can also, with some modifications, be applied to other high-throughput technologies. Keywords: High-throughput technology, microarray, cDNA, multiple scans, Bayesian hierarchical models, image analysis, experimental design, MCMC, WinBUGS.

Introduction of high-content screening method for studying drug-induced mitochondrial dysfunction in hepatocytes

Drug induced liver injury is one of the frequent reasons for the drug removal from the market. During the recent years there has been a pressure to develop more cost efficient, faster and easier ways to investigate drug-induced toxicity in order to recognize hepatotoxic drugs in the earlier phases of drug development. High Content Screening (HCS) instrument is an automated microscope equipped with image analysis software. It makes the image analysis faster and decreases the risk for an error caused by a person by analyzing the images always in the same way. Because the amount of drug and time needed in the analysis are smaller and multiple parameters can be analyzed from the same cells, the method should be more sensitive, effective and cheaper than the conventional assays in cytotoxicity testing. Liver cells are rich in mitochondria and many drugs target their toxicity to hepatocyte mitochondria. Mitochondria produce the majority of the ATP in the cell through oxidative phosphorylation. They maintain biochemical homeostasis in the cell and participate in cell death. Mitochondria is divided into two compartments by inner and outer mitochondrial membranes. The oxidative phosphorylation happens in the inner mitochondrial membrane. A part of the respiratory chain, a protein called cytochrome c, activates caspase cascades when released. This leads to apoptosis. The aim of this study was to implement, optimize and compare mitochondrial toxicity HCS assays in live cells and fixed cells in two cellular models: human HepG2 hepatoma cell line and rat primary hepatocytes. Three different hepato- and mitochondriatoxic drugs (staurosporine, rotenone and tolcapone) were used. Cells were treated with the drugs, incubated with the fluorescent probes and then the images were analyzed using Cellomics ArrayScan VTI reader. Finally the results obtained after optimizing methods were compared to each other and to the results of the conventional cytotoxicity assays, ATP and LDH measurements. After optimization the live cell method and rat primary hepatocytes were selected to be used in the experiments. Staurosporine was the most toxic of the three drugs and caused most damage to the cells most quickly. Rotenone was not that toxic, but the results were more reproducible and thus it would serve as a good positive control in the screening. Tolcapone was the least toxic. So far the conventional analysis of cytotoxicity worked better than the HCS methods. More optimization needs to be done to get the HCS method more sensitive. This was not possible in this study due to time limit.

Change detection and controlling forest information using multi-temporal Landsat TM imagery.

A method was developed for relative radiometric calibration of single multitemporal Landsat TM image, several multitemporal images covering each others, and several multitemporal images covering different geographic locations. The radiometricly calibrated difference images were used for detecting rapid changes on forest stands. The nonparametric Kernel method was applied for change detection. The accuracy of the change detection was estimated by inspecting the image analysis results in field. The change classification was applied for controlling the quality of the continuously updated forest stand information. The aim was to ensure that all the manmade changes and any forest damages were correctly updated including the attribute and stand delineation information. The image analysis results were compared with the registered treatments and the stand information base. The stands with discrepancies between these two information sources were recommended to be field inspected.