Kestävästi vaihtuva muoti : Kestävän muodin mahdollisuudet ja haasteet vaatesuunnittelijan näkökulmasta

The concept of sustainable fashion covers not only the ecological and ethical matters in fashion and textile industries but also the cultural and social affairs, which are equally intertwined in this complex network. Sustainable fashion does not have one explicit or well-established definition; however, many researchers have discussed it from different perspectives. This study provides an overview of the principals, practices, possibilities, and challenges concerning sustainable fashion. It focuses particularly on the practical questions a designer faces. The aim of this study was to answer the following questions: What kind of outlooks and practices are included in sustainable fashion? How could the principles of sustainable fashion be integrated into designing and making clothes? The qualitative study was carried out by using the Grounded Theory method. Data consisted mainly of academic literature and communication with designers who practice sustainable fashion. In addition to these, several websites and journalistic articles were used. The data was analyzed by identifying and categorizing relevant concepts using the constant comparative method, i.e. examining the internal consistency of each category. The study established a core category, around which all other categories are integrated. The emerged concepts were organized into a model that pieces together different ideas about sustainable fashion, namely, when the principles of sustainable development are applied to fashion practices. The category named Considered Take and Return is the core of the model. It consists of various design philosophies that form the basis of design practice, and thus it relates to all other categories. It is framed by the category of Attachment and Appreciation, which reflects the importance of sentiment in design practice, for example the significance of aesthetics. The categories especially linked to fashion are Materials, Treatments of Fabrics and Production Methods. The categories closely connected with sustainable development are Saving Resources, Societal Implications, and Information Transparency. While the model depicts separate categories, the different segments are in close interaction. The objective of sustainable fashion is holistic and requires all of its sections to be taken into account.

Tavallisuudesta tyylikkyyteen? : Sukupuoli ja maku kodinmuutosohjelmissa

The study focuses on the Finnish home makeover shows Inno (2004 , Nelonen) and Kodin kääntöpiiri (2001 2005; YLE TV2) and their episodes broadcast in spring 2004. The research material also includes the websites of both shows and messages concerning Inno from an online discussion forum. As people decorate their homes and reflect on them, they engage in negotiations of taste and in the construction of the ideal self. The main question of the study is: how are representations of the gendered self produced in home makeover shows? The broader theoretical and methodological context of the study is based on intersectionality, or simultaneous study of different identity categories. In this study, the main focus is on the intersections of gender, class and sexuality. Hence, the secondary research question is: how do ways of doing gender intersect with producing the ideas of class and sexuality in the representations of home makeover shows? The theoretical framework of the study combines Judith Butler s theory of gender performativity and Pierre Bourdieu s theory of taste. The analysis is founded upon a close reading focusing on the details and ambiguous meanings contained in the televisual representation. Home makeover shows are explored as a part of contemporary television culture, which is characterised by a significant increase in the number of both television channels and global television formats, as well as the hybridisation of programme types. Researchers on lifestyle television have paid attention to male designers and their ability to reconstruct meanings related to domesticity and home decoration as feminine spheres. The dissertation contributes to this discussion by analysing the representations of the male interior decorator in Inno and the four female interior decorators in Kodin kääntöpiiri. The focus is on the professional self and how it is both gendered and defined as an arbiter of taste. The programme concepts produce the impression that the makeover homes and their occupants are ordinary . The manufactured sense of ordinariness often conceals differences between the participants. One argument of the study is that the ordinariness of participants on lifestyle television should not be taken for granted without further reflection on the implications of labeling something as ordinary. Updating of interior decoration in home makeover shows can be interpreted as an area of doing gender that requires deliberation, effort, expert knowledge and a sufficient budget. The ideal lay decorator is portrayed as culturally omnivorous, brave and receptive to new ideas. The ability to reflect on ways of representing masculinity and femininity through decoration is also implied. In home makeover shows, greater self-awareness regarding the ways in which gender is produced does not lead to repeating gender differently. The idea of normative heterosexuality is in a hegemonic position in the representations of the participants. In Inno and Kodin kääntöpiiri questions of class are not made explicit. However, the idea of class is produced indirectly e.g. by describing the apartments and houses of the participants, by discussing their hobbies or interest in cultural products. In Inno, home decoration is primarily depicted as an individualistic consumer choice, while in Kodin kääntöpiiri it is often defined as a way to strengthen the ties of nuclear families. In Kodin kääntöpiiri, the ethos of familism is combined with pleasures gained from consumption and DIY activities. As a whole, the multidisciplinary study indicates a great number of differences between the two shows.

Interest in university studies : Its role and relation to other motivational variables

This dissertation empirically explored interest as a motivational force in university studies, including the role it currently plays and possible ways of enhancing this role as a student motivator. The general research questions were as follows: 1) What role does interest play in university studies? 2) What explains academic success if studying is not based on interest? 3) How do different learning environments support or impede interest-based studying? Four empirical studies addressed these questions. Study 1 (n=536) compared first-year students explanations of their disciplinary choices in three fields: veterinary medicine, humanities and law. Study 2 (n=28) focused on the role of individual interest in the humanities and veterinary medicine, fields which are very different from each other as regards their nature of studying. Study 3 (n=52) explored veterinary students motivation and study practices in relation to their study success. Study 4 (n=16) explored veterinary students interest experience in individual lectures on a daily basis. By comparing different fields and focusing on one study field in more detail, it was possible to obtain a many-sided picture of the role of interest in different learning environments. Questionnaires and quantitative methods have often been used to measure interest in academic learning. The present work is based mostly on qualitative data, and qualitative methods were applied to add to the previous research. Study 1 explored students open-ended answers, and these provided a basis for the interviews in Study 2. Study 3 explored veterinary students portfolios in a longitudinal setting. For Study 4, a diary including both qualitative and quantitative measures was designed to capture veterinary students interest experience. Qualitative content analysis was applied in all four studies, but quantitative analyses were also added. The thesis showed that university students often explain their disciplinary choices in terms of interest. Because interest is related to high-quality learning, the students seemed to have a good foundation for successful studies. However, the learning environments did not always support interest-based studying; Time-management and coping skills were found to be more important than interest in terms of study success. The results also indicated that interest is not the only motivational variable behind university studies. For example, future goals are needed in order to complete a degree. Even so, the results clearly indicated that it would be worth supporting interest-based studying both in professionally and generally oriented study fields. This support is important not only to promote high-quality learning but also meaningful studying, student well-being, and life-long learning.