Neulemallien muodikkuus : Näkyvätkö kansainväliset muotitrendit suomalaisten käsityölehtien neulemalleissa?

The aim of this work was to study, whether international fashion trends show in knit designs in Finnish craft magazines and how trends are modified. Women s knitted clothes and accessories in autumn winter season 2005 2006 were analyzed. Future research, trends, fashion, designing and knitting provides theoretical basis for this study. The trend material of this study came from Carlin Women s knitwear winter 2005 2006, which is fashion forecast for Women s knitwear. In addition to the trend book, I selected two international fashion magazines to reinforce this study. Fashion magazines were L´Officiel, 1000 models, Milan New York winter 05/06, No 52, April 2005 and Collezioni Donna, Prêt-à-porter autumn-winter 2005 2006, No 107. Finnish craft magazines in this study were MODA s issues 4/2005, 5/2005, 6/2005 and Novita s issues autumn 2005, winter 2005 and Suuri Käsityölehti s issues 8/2005, 9/2005, 10/2005. For the base of the analyze I took themes from the trend book. From fashion magazines I searched knitwear designs and these designs were sorted out by themes of trend book. To this trend and fashion material I compared knit designs from craft magazines. I analyzed how fashion trends show in knit designs and how they are modified. I also studied what features of trends were shown and which did not appear in knit designs of the craft magazines. For analyzing trend pictures and knit designs in craft magazines I applied qualitative content analysis and image analysis. According to the results of this research, effects of trend can be recognized in knit designs of craft maga-zines, although the fashion trends have been applied very discreetly. Knit designs were very similar re-gardless of magazine. The craft magazine data included approximately as many designs from Novita and MODA. In Suuri Käsityölehti provided only fifth of the designs data. There were also designs in MODA and Suuri Käsityölehti, which were made of Novita s yarns. This research material includes yarns of 15 different yarn manufacturers. Although half of all knit designs were knitted from Novita s yarn. There were 10 different yarns from Novita. Nevertheless Novita s yarn called Aino was the most popular. Finnish craft magazines have not respond to popularity of knitting. Magazines do not provide any novelty designs for knitters. Knit designs in Finnish craft magazines are usually practical basic designs without any innovativeness.

Occupational chronic solvent encephalopathy in Finland 1995 - 2007 : incidence and diagnostic methods

The occurrence of occupational chronic solvent encephalopathy (CSE) seems to decrease, but still every year reveals new cases. To prevent CSE and early retirement of solvent-exposed workers, actions should focus on early CSE detection and diagnosis. Identifying the work tasks and solvent exposure associated with high risk for CSE is crucial. Clinical and exposure data of all the 128 cases diagnosed with CSE as an occupational disease in Finland during 1995-2007 was collected from the patient records at the Finnish Institute of Occupational Health (FIOH) in Helsinki. The data on the number of exposed workers in Finland were gathered from the Finnish Job-exposure Matrix (FINJEM) and the number of employed from the national workforce survey. We analyzed the work tasks and solvent exposure of CSE patients and the findings in brain magnetic resonance imaging (MRI), quantitative electroencephalography (QEEG), and event-related potentials (ERP). The annual number of new cases diminished from 18 to 3, and the incidence of CSE decreased from 8.6 to 1.2 / million employed per year. The highest incidence of CSE was in workers with their main exposure to aromatic hydrocarbons; during 1995-2006 the incidence decreased from 1.2 to 0.3 / 1 000 exposed workers per year. The work tasks with the highest incidence of CSE were floor layers and lacquerers, wooden surface finishers, and industrial, metal, or car painters. Among 71 CSE patients, brain MRI revealed atrophy or white matter hyperintensities or both in 38% of the cases. Atrophy which was associated with duration of exposure was most frequently located in the cerebellum and in the frontal or parietal brain areas. QEEG in a group of 47 patients revealed increased power of the theta band in the frontal brain area. In a group of 86 patients, the P300 amplitude of auditory ERP was decreased, but at individual level, all the amplitude values were classified as normal. In 11 CSE patients and 13 age-matched controls, ERP elicited by a multimodal paradigm including an auditory, a visual detection, and a recognition memory task under single and dual-task conditions corroborated the decrease of auditory P300 amplitude in CSE patients in single-task condition. In dual-task conditions, the auditory P300 component was, more often in patients than in controls, unrecognizable. Due to the paucity and non-specificity of the findings, brain MRI serves mainly for differential diagnostics in CSE. QEEG and auditory P300 are insensitive at individual level and not useful in the clinical diagnostics of CSE. A multimodal ERP paradigm may, however, provide a more sensitive method to diagnose slight cognitive disturbances such as CSE.

Neurocognitive processing of inflected and derived words

The representation of morphologically complex words in the mental lexicon and their neurocognitive processing has been a vigorously debated topic in psycholinguistics and the cognitive neuroscience of language. This thesis investigates the effect of stimulus modality on morphological processing, the spatiotemporal dynamics of the neural processing of inflected (e.g., work+ed ) and derived (e.g., work+er ) words and their interaction, using the Finnish language. Overall, the results suggest that the constituent morphemes of isolated written and spoken inflected words are accessed separately, whereas spoken derived words activate both their full form and the constituent morphemes. The processing of both spoken and written inflected words elicited larger N400 responses than monomorphemic words (Study I), whereas the responses to spoken derived words did not differ from those to monomorphemic words (Study IV). Spoken inflected words elicited a larger left-lateralized negativity and greater source strengths in the left temporal cortices than derived words (Study IV). Thus, the results suggest different cortical processing for derived and inflected words. Moreover, the neural mechanisms underlying inflection and derivation seem to be not only different, but also independent as indexed by the linear summation of the responses to derived and inflected stimuli in a combined (derivation+inflection) condition (Study III). Furthermore, the processing of meaningless, spoken derived pseudowords was more difficult than for existing derived words, indexed by a larger N400-type effect for the pseudowords. However, no differences were observed between meaningful derived pseudowords and existing derived words (Study II). The results of Study II suggest that semantic compatibility between morphemes seems to have a crucial role in a successful morphological analysis. As a methodological note, time-locking the auditory event-related potentials/fields (ERP/ERF) to the suffix onset revealed the processes related to morphological analysis more precisely (Studies II and IV), which also enables comparison of the neural processes in different modalities (Study I).