Influence of mean water depth and a subsurface sandbar on the onset and strength of wave breaking

Wave breaking in the open ocean and coastal zones remains an intriguing yet incompletely understood process, with a strong observed association with wave groups. Recent numerical study of the evolution of fully nonlinear, two-dimensional deep water wave groups identified a robust threshold of a diagnostic growth-rate parameter that separated nonlinear wave groups that evolved to breaking from those that evolved with recurrence. This paper investigates whether these deep water wave-breaking results apply more generally, particularly in finite-water-depth conditions. For unforced nonlinear wave groups in intermediate water depths over a flat bottom, it was found that the upper bound of the diagnostic growth-rate threshold parameter established for deep water wave groups is also applicable in intermediate water depths, given by k(0) h greater than or equal to 2, where k(0) is the mean carrier wavenumber and h is the mean depth. For breaking onset over an idealized circular arc sandbar located on an otherwise flat, intermediate-depth (k(0) h greater than or equal to 2) environment, the deep water breaking diagnostic growth rate was found to be applicable provided that the height of the sandbar is less than one-quarter of the ambient mean water depth. Thus, for this range of intermediate-depth conditions, these two classes of bottom topography modify only marginally the diagnostic growth rate found for deep water waves. However, when intermediate-depth wave groups ( k(0) h greater than or equal to 2) shoal over a sandbar whose height exceeds one-half of the ambient water depth, the waves can steepen significantly without breaking. In such cases, the breaking threshold level and the maximum of the diagnostic growth rate increase systematically with the height of the sandbar. Also, the dimensions and position of the sandbar influenced the evolution and breaking threshold of wave groups. For sufficiently high sandbars, the effects of bottom topography can induce additional nonlinearity into the wave field geometry and associated dynamics that modifies the otherwise robust deep water breaking-threshold results.

Joint statistical distribution of two-point sea surface elevations in finite water depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, a joint statistical distribution of two-point sea surface elevations is derived by using the characteristic function expansion method. It is found that the joint distribution depends on five parameters. These five parameters can all be determined by the water depth, the relative position of two points and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, for fully developed wind-generated sea, the parameters that appeared in the joint distribution are calculated for various wind speeds, water depths and relative positions of two points by using the Donelan and Pierson spectrum and the nonlinear effects of sea waves on the joint distribution are studied. (C) 2003 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Statistical distribution of depth-integrated local horizontal momentum for second-order random ocean waves in finite water depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, statistical distributions of the depth- integrated local horizontal momentum components are derived by use of the characteristic function expansion method. The parameters involved in the distributions can be all determined by the water depth and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, a fully developed wind-generated sea is considered and the parameters are calculated for typical wind speeds and water depths by means of the Donelan and Pierson spectrum. The effects of nonlinearity and water depth on the distributions are also investigated.

Statistical distribution of wave-surface elevation for second-order random directional ocean waves in finite water depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, a statistical distribution of the wave-surface elevation is derived by using the characteristic function expansion method. It is found that the distribution, after normalization of the wave-surface elevation, depends only on two parameters. One parameter describes the small mean bias of the surface produced by the second-order wave-wave interactions. Another one is approximately proportional to the skewness of the distribution. Both of these two parameters can be determined by the water depth and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, we consider a fully developed wind-generated sea and the parameters are calculated for various wind speeds and water depths by using Donelan and Pierson spectrum. It is also found that, for deep water, the dimensionless distribution reduces to the third-order Gram-Charlier series obtained by Longuet-Higgins [J. Fluid Mech. 17 (1963) 459]. The newly proposed distribution is compared with the data of Bitner [Appl. Ocean Res. 2 (1980) 63], Gaussian distribution and the fourth-order Gram-Charlier series, and found our distribution gives a more reasonable fit to the data. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

The optimization of high performance liquid chromatographic method for analysis of trace microcystins in natural water bodies

The ratio of methanol., water and trifluoroacetic acid ( TFA) was regulated to change the polarity and the pH of the rinse solution and the eluent, so as to improve the high performance liquid chromatography HPLC) detection method for trace microcystines (MCs) in natural water bodies. The results showed that 40 % similar to 45 % methanol-water solution containing 0. 1 % TFA could get good effects on the rinse of impurity, and 70% methanol-water solution containing 0. 1% TFA could elute all the MCs in solid phase extraction ( SPE) cartridge ( C-18), In this way. it is suggested that, in analysis of environmental samples with high concentration of impurity, impurity should be washed with 40% similar to 45% methanol-water solution containing 0. 1% TFA, and MCs should be eluted with 70% similar to 100% methanol-water solution containing 0. 1% TFA.

Stratigraphic Model Predictions of Geoacoustic Properties

Geoacoustic properties of the seabed have a controlling role in the propagation and reverberation of sound in shallow-water environments. Several techniques are available to quantify the important properties but are usually unable to adequately sample the region of interest. In this paper, we explore the potential for obtaining geotechnical properties from a process-based stratigraphic model. Grain-size predictions from the stratigraphic model are combined with two acoustic models to estimate sound speed with distance across the New Jersey continental shelf and with depth below the seabed. Model predictions are compared to two independent sets of data: 1) Surficial sound speeds obtained through direct measurement using in situ compressional wave probes, and 2) sound speed as a function of depth obtained through inversion of seabed reflection measurements. In water depths less than 100 m, the model predictions produce a trend of decreasing grain-size and sound speed with increasing water depth as similarly observed in the measured surficial data. In water depths between 100 and 130 m, the model predictions exhibit an increase in sound speed that was not observed in the measured surficial data. A closer comparison indicates that the grain-sizes predicted for the surficial sediments are generally too small producing sound speeds that are too slow. The predicted sound speeds also tend to be too slow for sediments 0.5-20 m below the seabed in water depths greater than 100 m. However, in water depths less than 100 m, the sound speeds between 0.5-20-m subbottom depth are generally too fast. There are several reasons for the discrepancies including the stratigraphic model was limited to two dimensions, the model was unable to simulate biologic processes responsible for the high sound-speed shell material common in the model area, and incomplete geological records necessary to accurately predict grain-size

Radiolarian distribution in surface sediments of the northern and central South China Sea

Radiolarian distribution in surface sediments of 104 stations from northern and central South China Sea show that the abundance and diversity of radiolarians increase with the water depth and are related to radiolarian concentrations from the water column, diminished terrigenous input, variability in calcareous shell content and the rate of silica and carbonate dissolution in the deep sea. According to the appearances of individual species in surface sediments at particular depths, seven faunal boundaries distribution are recognized at water depths of 100, 450, 650, 1000, 1200, 1400 and 2500 m. Four radiolarian assemblages in the sediments were identified by applying clustering procedures. Geographic distributions of these four assemblages coincide with present-day hydrologic features of the surface waters in this area.

Benthic foraminiferal distribution in surface sediments along continental slope of the southern Okinawa Trough: dependance on water masses and food supply

Benthic foraminiferal analysis of 29 samples in surface sediments from the southern Okinawa Trough is carried out. The results indicate that benthic foraminiferal abundance decreases rapidly with increasing water depth. Percentage frequencies of agglutinated foraminifera further confirm the modem shallow carbonate lysocline in the southern Okinawa Trough. From continental shelf edge to the bottom of Okinawa Trough, benthic foraminiferal fauna in the surface sediments can be divided into 5 assemblages: (1) Continental shelf break assemblage, dominated by Cibicides pseudoungerianus, corresponds to subsurface water mass of the Kuroshio Current; (2) upper continental slope assemblage, dominated by Cassidulina carinata, Globocassidulina subglobosa, corresponds to intermediate water mass of the Kuroshio Current; (3) intermediate continental slope assemblage, dominated by Uvigerina hispida, corresponds to the Okinawa Trough deep water mass above the carbonate lysocline; (4), lower continental slope - trough bottom assemblage, dominated by Pullenia bulloides, Epistominella exigua and Cibicidoides hyalinus, corresponds to deep water mass of the Okinawa Trough; and (5) trough bottom agglutinated assemblage, dominated by Rhabdammina spp., Bathysiphon flavidus, corresponds to I strongly dissolved environment of the trough bottom. The benthic foraminiferal fauna in the southern Okinawa Trough are controlled jointly by water masses and food supply. Water temperature, oxygen concentration and carbonate dissolution of the water masses are important controlling factors especially for the continental shelf break and trough bottom assemblages. The food supply also plays an important role in these benthic foraminiferal assemblages along the western slope. of the Okinawa Trough. Both the abundance and the 5 assemblages of benthic foraminifera correspond well to the organic matter supply along the continental slope and a lateral transport of TSM (total suspended matter) and POC (particulate organic carbon) from the shelf break to the deep water is also an important food supply for benthic fauna in this region.

Flux and fate of Yangtze river sediment delivered to the East China Sea

Numerous cores and dating show the Yangtze River has accumulated about 1.16 x 10(12) t sediment in its delta plain and proximal subaqueous delta during Holocene. High-resolution seismic profiling and coring in the southern East China Sea during 2003 and 2004 cruises has revealed an elongated (similar to 800 km) distal subaqueous mud wedge extending from the Yangtze River mouth southward off the Zhejiang and Fujian coasts into the Taiwan Strait. Overlying what appears to be a transgressive sand layer, this distal clinoform thins offshore, from similar to 40 in thickness between the 20 and 30 m water depth to < 1-2 in between 60 and 90 m water depth, corresponding to an across shelf distance of less than 100 km. Total volume of this distal mud wedge is about 4.5 x 10(11) m(3), equivalent to similar to 5.4 x 10(11) t of sediment. Most of the sediment in this mud wedge comes from the Yangtze River, with some input presumably coming from local smaller rivers. Thus, the total Yangtze-derived sediments accumulated in its deltaic system and East China Sea inner shelf have amounted to about 1.7 x 10(12) t. Preliminary analyses suggest this longshore and across-shelf transported clinoform mainly formed in the past 7000 yrs after postglacial sea level reached its mid-Holocene highstand, and after re-intensification of the Chinese longshore current system. Sedimentation accumulation apparently increased around 2000 yrs BP, reflecting the evolution of the Yangtze estuary and increased land erosion due to human activities, such as fanning and deforestation. The southward-flowing China Coastal Current, the northward-flowing Taiwan Warm Current, and the Kuroshio Current appear to have played critical roles in transporting and trapping most of Yangtze-derived materials in the inner shelf, and hence preventing the sediment escape into the deep ocean. (c) 2006 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

A SINGULAR EXACT SOLUTION FOR NONLINEAR SHALLOW-WATER ON A ROTATING EARTH

In this paper, we present an exact solution for nonlinear shallow water on a rotating planet. It is a kind of solitary waves with always negative wave height and a celerity smaller than linear shallow water propagation speed square-root gh. In fact, it propagates with a speed equal to (1 + a/h) square-root gh(1 + a/h) where a is the negative wave height. The lowest point of the water surface is a singular point where the first order derivative has a discontinuity of the first kind. The horizontal scale of the wave has actually no connection with the water depth.

Applications of improved 2-D numerical wave tanks in wave breaking

Song and Banner (2002, henceforth referred to as SB02) used a numerical wave tank (developed by Drimer and Agnon, and further refined by Segre, henceforth referred to as DAS) to study the wave breaking in the deep water, and proposed a dimensionless breaking threshold that based on the behaviour of the wave energy modulation and focusing during the evolution of the wave group. In this paper, two modified DAS models are used to further test the SB02's results, the first one (referred to MDAS1) corrected many integral calculation errors appeared in the DAS code, and the second one (referred to MDAS2) replaced the linear boundary element approximation of DAS into the cubic element on the free surface. Researches show that the results of MDAS1 are the same with those of DAS for the simulations of deep water wave breaking, but, the different values of the wavemaker amplitude, the breaking time and the maximum local average energy growth rate delta(max) for the marginal breaking cases are founded by MDAS2 and MDAS1. However, MDAS2 still satisfies the SB02' s breaking threshold. Furthermore, MDAS1 is utilized to study the marginal breaking case in the intermediate water depth when wave passes over a submerged slope, where the slope is given by 1 : 500, 1 : 300, 1 : 150 or 1 : 100. It is found that the maximum local energy density U increases significantly if the slope becomes steeper, and the delta(max) decreases weakly and increases intensively for the marginal recurrence case and marginal breaking case respectively. SB02's breaking threshold is still valid for the wave passing over a submerged slope gentler than 1 : 100 in the intermediate water depth.

Community structure of macrobenthos in coastal water off Rushan, southern Shandong Peninsula, and the relationships with environmental factors

To understand the present actuality of the marine ecosystem in the southern coastal water region of the Shandong Peninsula and the impact of the global change and the human activities to the marine ecosystem of the region, the macrobenthic community structure was researched based on data from 26 sampling stations carried out on four seasonal cruises from December 2006 to November 2007. The data was analyzed using PRIMER 6.0 and SPSS 15.0 software packages. The results showed that 236 macrobenthic species in total were collected from the research region by the field works. Most of the species belong to Polychaeta (76 species), Mollusca (75) and Crustacea (60). Of which, 33 species were common species by the four cruises. The dominant species were different among the four seasons, however, the polychaete species Nephtys oligobranchia and Sternaspis scutata were always dominant in the four seasons. The abundances and biomasses of the macrobenthos from the research region were variable in tire four seasons. The results of CLUSTER and MDS analysis showed that the similarities of macrobenthic structures among the stations were low, most of the similarities were at about 40% of similarity values, only that of two stations were up to 60%. In accordance with the similarity values of the macrobenthic structures, the 26 stations were clustered as six groups at arbitrary similarity level of 30%. The ABC curve indicated that the marcofauna communities in the research region had riot been disturbed distinctly. The results of BIOENV and BVSTEP (Spearman) analysis implied that the concentrations of organic matter in bottom water and heavy metal copper in sediment, water depth and temperature of bottom were the most significant environmental factors to affect the macrobentic community.

Net primary productivity and spatial distribution of vegetation in an alpine wetland, Qinghai-Tibetan Plateau

To initially describe vegetation structure and spatial variation in plant biomass in a typical alpine wetland of the Qinghai-Tibetan Plateau, net primary productivity and vegetation in relationship to environmental factors were investigated. In 2002, the wetland remained flooded to an average water depth of 25 cm during the growing season, from July to mid-September. We mapped the floodline and vegetation distribution using GPS (global positioning system). Coverage of vegetation in the wetland was 100%, and the vegetation was zonally distributed along a water depth gradient, with three emergent plant zones (Hippuris vulgaris-dominated zone, Scirpus distigmaticus-dominated zone, and Carex allivescers-dominated zone) and one submerged plant zone (Potamogeton pectinatus-dominated zone). Both aboveground and belowground biomass varied temporally within and among the vegetation zones. Further, net primary productivity (NPP) as estimated by peak biomass also differed among the vegetation zones; aboveground NPP was highest in the Carex-dominated zone with shallowest water and lowest in the Potamogeton zone with deepest water. The area occupied by each zone was 73.5% for P. pectinatus, 2.6% for H. vulgaris, 20.5% for S. distigmaticus, and 3.4% for C. allivescers. Morphological features in relationship to gas-transport efficiency of the aerial part differed among the emergent plants. Of the three emergent plants, H. vulgaris, which dominated in the deeper water, showed greater morphological adaptability to deep water than the other two emergent plants.

Carbon dioxide dynamics and controls in a deep-water wetland on the Qinghai-Tibetan Plateau

To initially characterize the dynamics and environmental controls of CO2, ecosystem CO2 fluxes were measured for different vegetation zones in a deep-water wetland on the Qinghai-Tibetan Plateau during the growing season of 2002. Four zones of vegetation along a gradient from shallow to deep water were dominated, respectively by the emergent species Carex allivescens V. Krez., Scirpus distigmaticus L., Hippuris vulgaris L., and the submerged species Potamogeton pectinatus L. Gross primary production (GPP), ecosystem respiration (Re), and net ecosystem production (NEP) were markedly different among the vegetation zones, with lower Re and GPP in deeper water. NEP was highest in the Scirpus-dominated zone with moderate water depth, but lowest in the Potamogeton-zone that occupied approximately 75% of the total wetland area. Diurnal variation in CO2 flux was highly correlated with variation in light intensity and soil temperature. The relationship between CO2 flux and these environmental variables varied among the vegetation zones. Seasonal CO2 fluxes, including GPP, Re, and NEP, were strongly correlated with aboveground biomass, which was in turn determined by water depth. In the early growing season, temperature sensitivity (Q(10)) for Re varied from 6.0 to 8.9 depending on vegetation zone. Q(10) decreased in the late growing season. Estimated NEP for the whole deep-water wetland over the growing season was 24 g C m(-2). Our results suggest that water depth is the major environmental control of seasonal variation in CO2 flux, whereas photosynthetic photon flux density (PPFD) controls diurnal dynamics.

Comparison of the Dynamic Response of a Saturated Soil Between Two Models

By comparing the dynamic responses of saturated soil to Biot's and Yamamoto's models, the properties of the two models have be pointed out. First of all, an analysis has been made for energy loss of each model from the basic equations. Then the damping of elastic waves in coarse sand and fine sand with loading frequency and soil's parameters have been calculated and the representation of viscous friction and Coulomb friction in the two models has been concluded. Finally, the variations of loading wave damping and stress phase angles with water depth and soil's parameters have been obtained as loading waves range in ocean waves.