Influence of mean water depth and a subsurface sandbar on the onset and strength of wave breaking

Wave breaking in the open ocean and coastal zones remains an intriguing yet incompletely understood process, with a strong observed association with wave groups. Recent numerical study of the evolution of fully nonlinear, two-dimensional deep water wave groups identified a robust threshold of a diagnostic growth-rate parameter that separated nonlinear wave groups that evolved to breaking from those that evolved with recurrence. This paper investigates whether these deep water wave-breaking results apply more generally, particularly in finite-water-depth conditions. For unforced nonlinear wave groups in intermediate water depths over a flat bottom, it was found that the upper bound of the diagnostic growth-rate threshold parameter established for deep water wave groups is also applicable in intermediate water depths, given by k(0) h greater than or equal to 2, where k(0) is the mean carrier wavenumber and h is the mean depth. For breaking onset over an idealized circular arc sandbar located on an otherwise flat, intermediate-depth (k(0) h greater than or equal to 2) environment, the deep water breaking diagnostic growth rate was found to be applicable provided that the height of the sandbar is less than one-quarter of the ambient mean water depth. Thus, for this range of intermediate-depth conditions, these two classes of bottom topography modify only marginally the diagnostic growth rate found for deep water waves. However, when intermediate-depth wave groups ( k(0) h greater than or equal to 2) shoal over a sandbar whose height exceeds one-half of the ambient water depth, the waves can steepen significantly without breaking. In such cases, the breaking threshold level and the maximum of the diagnostic growth rate increase systematically with the height of the sandbar. Also, the dimensions and position of the sandbar influenced the evolution and breaking threshold of wave groups. For sufficiently high sandbars, the effects of bottom topography can induce additional nonlinearity into the wave field geometry and associated dynamics that modifies the otherwise robust deep water breaking-threshold results.

Mean sea surface heights of the South and East China Seas from ocean circulation model and geodetic leveling

The mean sea surface heights (sea surface topography) of the South China, East China, Yellow and Bohai Seas are derived from an ocean general circulation model and surface air pressure. The circulation model covers the global oceans, with fine grid (1/6degrees) covering the East Asian marginal seas and coarse grid (31) covering the rest part of the global oceans. The result shows that the China 1985 National Altitude Datum is 24.7 cm above the me-an sea surface height of the world oceans. The mean sea surface in the coastal ocean adjacent to China is higher in the south than in the north. Intercomparison of the model results with the geodetic leveling measurements at 28 coastal tidal stations shows a standard deviation of 4.8 cm and a fitting coefficient of 95.3%. After correction through linear regression, the standard deviation is reduced to 4.5 cm. This indicates that the accuracy of model results is sufficient for practical application. Based on the model results, the mean sea surface heights for the study area with a resolution of 1/6 degree are given. This result also links the mean sea levels at islands with those on the mainland coast and gives the mean sea surface heights at tidal stations in the Taiwan Island, the Dongsha Islands, the Yisha Islands and the Nansha Islands relative to the China 1985 National Altitude Datum.

微量样品钕-锶-铅同位素分析方法在黄河下游悬浮颗粒物及沉积物的应用

Aim in Rb-Sr-REE-Pb isotopic analysis of river material, a single-stage, highly efficient and rapid chemical separation method of Rb-Sr-REE-Pb has been established by a combination of the SR special resin and the RE resin. At the same time, Feasibility of high precision analysis on micro-size Nd samples，which were chemically separated by using the LN resin, were systematicly studied using the NdO+ technique in thermal ionization mass spectrometer (TIMS). Results show that high precision measurement of Nd isotopic ratios can be successfully achieved on micro-sample of 1 ng size lever, by systematic experiments on isobar interferences and optimizing separation and measurement conditions. This method will greatly extend the application prospect of the NdO+ technique. Sr-Nd-Pb isotopic composition of suspending particle material (SPM) and sediment and Sr isotopic composition of river water in the low reaches of the Yellow Rriver have been systematically analysed in this study. Results can indicate followings: (1) relative stable Sr isotopic ratios around 0.7112 of river water suggest great influcence from dissolution of carbonate component of loss material on Sr isotopic composition of river water; (2) Nd isotopic compositions of SPM and sediment of the Yellow river are is similar, mean εNd value of SPM around -11.5 and mean εNd value of sediment -12.7, slightly lower than that of SPM. Nd isotopic composition of the Yellow River material is simarlar to or slightly lower than loss material (-9.5); (3) evidence of Sr and Pb isotopic compositions of both SPM and sediment reveals a mixing trend of two endmembers. Sr isotopic ratios of SPM after leaching are significantly different that those without leaching, possibly suggesting strong alteration of river water. Pb isotopic ratios of SPM remain unchangable after leaching compared with unleached SPM; (4) Pb-contents of SPM are commonly higher than those of sediments, while Pb isotopic ratios of SPM are significantly lower. Pb isotopic composition of the Yellow River is relatively constant, which can be a useful provenance indicator between the Changjiang and Yellow Rivers.

边坡动力响应分析及应用研究

As a marginal subject, dynamic responses of slopes is not only an important problem of engineering geology (Geotechnical problem), but also of other subjects such as seismology, geophysics, seismic engineering and engineering seismic and so on. Owning to the gulf between different subjects, it is arduous to study dynamic responses of slopes and the study is far from ripeness. Studying on the dynamic responses of slopes is very important in theories as well as practices. Supported by hundreds of bibliographies, this paper systemically details the development process of this subject, introduces main means to analyze this subject, and then gives brief remarks to each means respectively. Engineering geology qualitative analysis is the base of slopes dynamic responses study. Because of complexity of geological conditions, engineering geology qualitative analysis is very important in slopes stability study, especially to rock slopes with complex engineering geology conditions. Based on research fruits of forerunners, this paper summarizes factors influencing slopes dynamic stability into five aspects as geology background, stratums, rock mass structure, and topography as well as hydrogeology condition. Based on rock mass structure controlling theory, engineering geology model of the slope is grouped into two typical classes, one is model with obvious controlling discontinuities, which includes horizontal bedded slope, bedding slope, anti-dip slope, slide as well as slope with base rock and weathered crust; the other is model without obvious controlling discontinuities, which includes homogeneous soil slope, joint rock mass slope. Study on slope failure mechanism under dynamic force, the paper concludes that there are two effects will appear in slope during strong earthquake, one is earthquake inertia force, the other is ultra pore pressure buildup. The two effects lead to failure of the slope. To different types of slope failure, the intensity of two effects acting on the slope is different too. To plastic flow failure, pore pressure buildup is dominant; to falling rock failure and toppling failure, earthquake inertia force is dominant in general. This paper briefly introduces the principle of Lagrangian element method. Through a lot of numerical simulations with FLAC3D, the paper comprehensively studies dynamic responses of slopes, and finds that: if the slope is low, displacement, velocity and acceleration are linear enlarging with elevation increasing in vertical direction; if the slope is high enough, displacement, velocity and acceleration are not linear with elevation any more, on the other hand, they fluctuate with certain rhythm. At the same time, the rhythm appears in the horizontal direction in the certain area near surface of the slope. The distribution form of isoline of displacement, velocity and acceleration in the section of the slope is remarkably affected by the slope angle. In the certain area near the slope surface, isoline of displacement, velocity and acceleration is parallel to the surface of the slope, in the mean time, the strike direction of the extreraum area is parallel to the surface of the slope too. Beyond this area, the isoline direction and the strike direction of the extremum area turn to horizontal with invariable distance. But the rhythm appearing or not has nothing to with the slope angle. The paper defines the high slope effect and the low slope effect of slopes dynamic responses, discusses the threshold height H^t of the dynamic high slope effect, and finds that AW is proportional to square root of the dynamic elastic moduli El P , at the same time, it is proportional to period Tof the dynamic input. Thus, the discriminant of H^t is achieved. The discriminant can tell us that to a slope, if its height is larger than one fifth of the wavelength, its response regular will be the dynamic high slope effect; on the other hand, its response regular will be the dynamic low slope effect. Based on these, the discriminant of different slopes taking on same response under the same dynamic input is put forward in this paper. At the same time, the paper studies distribution law of the rhythm extremum point of displacement, velocity and acceleration, and finds that there exists relationship of N = int among the slope height H, the number of the rhythm extremum VHlhro) point N and ffthre- Furthermore, the paper points out that if N^l, the response of the slope will be dynamic high slope effect; \fN