Modelling of submarine landslides and generated water waves

The slide of unstable sedimentary bodies and their hydraulic effects are studied by numerical means. A two-dimensional fluid mechanics model based on Navier-Stokes equations has been developed considering the sediments and water as a mixture. Viscoplastic and diffusion laws for the sediments have been introduced into the model. The numerical model is validated with an analytical solution for a Bingham flow. Laboratory experiments consisting in the slide of gravel mass have been carried out. The results of these experiments have shown the importance of the sediment rheology and the diffusion. The model parameters are adjusted by trial and error to match the observed “sandflow”.

On the radiation and diffraction of linear water waves by an infinitely long rectangular structure submerged in oblique seas

The radiation and diffraction of linear water waves by an infinitely long rectangular structure submerged in oblique seas of finite depth is investigated. The analytical expressions for the radiated and diffracted potentials are derived as infinite series by use of the method of separation of variables. The unknown coefficients in the series are determined by the eigenfunction expansion matching method. The expressions for wave forces, hydrodynamic coefficients and reflection and transmission coefficients are given and verified by the boundary element method. Using the present analytical solution, the hydrodynamic influences of the angle of incidence, the submergence, the width and the thickness of the structure on the wave forces, hydrodynamic coefficients, and reflection and transmission coefficients are discussed in detail.

Scattering of linear water waves by a fixed and infinitely long rectangular structure parallel to a vertical wall in oblique seas

The scattering of linear water waves by an infinitely long rectangular structure parallel to a vertical wall in oblique seas is investigated. Analytical expressions for the diffracted potentials are derived using the method of separation of variables. The unknown coefficients in the expressions are determined through the application of the eigenfunction expansion matching method. The expressions for wave forces on the structure are given. The calculated results are compared with those obtained by the boundary element method. In addition, the influences of the wall, the angle of wave incidence, the width of the structure, and the distance between the structure and the wall on wave forces are discussed. The method presented here can be easily extended to the study of the diffraction of obliquely incident waves by multiple rectangular structures.

Topological constraints on scroll and spiral waves in excitable media

A conservation equation for topological charges of phase singularities (scroll and spiral waves) in excitable media is given. It provides some topological properties of scroll (spiral) waves: for example, the topological charge of the generated or annihilated spiral pair must be opposite. Additionally, we obtain another equation on scroll waves, which shows that singular filaments of scroll waves occur on a set of one-dimensional curves which may be either closed loops or infinite lines.

Observation and theoretical analysis for the sand-waves migration in the North Gulf of South China Sea

According to the environmental characteristic of the north gulf of South China Sea, a quasi-3D mechanics model has been built for simulating the small scale sand-waves migration in the seas of southwest of Hainan Island. Based on the submarine micro-geomorphic data induced by multi-beam system and hydrographic survey record, the migrations of the sand-waves in the study area are predicted. The results show that calculation is consistent with the observation data in the groove of sand ridge, but not well in the crest of sand ridge. It is indicated that the mechanics model should be used to predict the migration of the small scale sand-waves which are dominated by bed load in the seas. This paper is very meaningful to project the route of submarine pipeline.

A unified criterion for initiation of sediment motion and inception of sheet flow under water waves

A unified criterion is developed for initiation of non-cohesive sediment motion and inception of sheet flow under water waves over a horizontal bed of sediment based on presently available experimental data. The unified threshold criterion is of the single form, U-o = 2 pi C[1 + 5(T-R/T)(2)](-1/4), where U-o is the onset velocity of sediment motion or sheet flow, T is wave period, and C and T-R are the coefficients. It is found that for a given sediment, U-o initially increases sharply with wave period, then gradually approaches the maximum onset velocity U-o = 2 pi C and becomes independent of T when T is larger. The unified criterion can also be extended to define sediment initial motion and sheet flow under irregular waves provided the significant wave orbital velocity and period of irregular waves are introduced in this unified criterion.

Generation of internal and surface waves by seafloor movement in a two layer fluid system

Internal and surface waves generated by the deformations of the solid bed in a two layer fluid system of infinite lateral extent and uniform depth are investigated. An integral solution is developed for an arbitrary bed displacement on the basis of a linear approximation of the complete description of wave motion using a transform method (Laplace in time and Fourier in space) analogous to that used to study the generation of tsunamis by many researchers. The theoretical solutions are presented for three interesting specific deformations of the seafloor; the spatial variation of each seafloor displacement consists of a block section of the seafloor moving vertically either up or down while the time-displacement history of the block section is varied. The generation process and the profiles of the internal and surface waves for the case of the exponential bed movement are numerically illustrated, and the effects of the deformation parameters, densities and depths of the two layers on the solutions are discussed. As expected, the solutions derived from the present work include as special cases that obtained by Kervella et al. [Theor Comput Fluid Dyn 21:245-269, 2007] for tsunamis cased by an instantaneous seabed deformation and those presented by Hammack [J Fluid Mech 60:769-799, 1973] for the exponential and the half-sine bed displacements when the density of the upper fluid is taken as zero.

Strongly nonlinear long interfacial waves in uniform basic flows and their dispersion relationship

In this paper, long interfacial waves of finite amplitude in uniform basic flows are considered with the assumption that the aspect ratio between wavelength and water depth is small. A new model is derived using the velocities at arbitrary distances from the still water level as the velocity variables instead of the commonly used depth-averaged velocities. This significantly improves the dispersion properties and makes them applicable to a wider range of water depths. Since its derivation requires no assumption on wave amplitude, the model thus can be used to describe waves with arbitrary amplitude.

Numerical simulation of tides and tidal currents in Liaodong Bay with POM

A three-dimensional ocean circulation model, called Princeton Ocean Model (POM), is employed to simulate tides and tidal currents in Liaodong Bay. The nested grid technique is adopted to improve the computation precision. Computed harmonic constants of M-1, M-2 tides at five tidal gauge stations and surface elevations at two oil platforms are compared with those observed, and show good agreements with them. Based on the calculated results, the co-amplitude and co-phase tag lines of nil and M-2 tidal constituents, the residual current field of M-2 constituent, tidal form, tidal Current ellipse and the moving style of tidal current are given. It is found that diurnal tidal constituents have no amphidromic point whereas semi-diurnal constituents have one in the region of interest. Meanwhile, some meaningful results are concluded and presented, which are conducive to a thorough knowledge of the characteristics of tides and tidal currents in the Liaodong Bay.

Simulation of barotropic and baroclinic tides in the South China Sea

The four leading tidal constituents M-2, S-2, K-1 and O-1 in the South China Sea are simulated by using POM. The model is forced with tide-generating potential and four leading tidal constituents at the open boundary. In order to simulate more exactly, TOPEX/Poseidon altimeter data are assimilated into the model and the open boundary is optimized. The computed co-tidal charts for M-2 and K-1 constituents are generally consistent with previous results in this region. The numerical simulation shows that energetic internal tides are generated over the bottom topography such as the Dongsha Islands, the Xisha Islands, the Zhongsha Islands, the Nansba Islands and the Luzon Strait.

Characteristics of nonlinear internal waves observed in the northern South China Sea

The South China Sea (SCS) is one of the most active areas of internal waves. We undertook a program of physical oceanography in the northern South China Sea from June to July of 2009, and conducted a 1-day observation from 15:40 of June 24 to 16:40 of June 25 using a chain of instruments, including temperature sensors, pressure sensors and temperature-pressure meters at a site (117.5A degrees E, 21A degrees N) northeast of the Dongsha Islands. We measured fluctuating tidal and subtidal properties with the thermistor-chain and a ship-mounted Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler, and observed a large-amplitude nonlinear internal wave passing the site followed by a number of small ones. To further investigate this phenomenon, we collected the tidal constituents from the TPXO7.1 dataset to evaluate the tidal characteristics at and around the recording site, from which we knew that the amplitude of the nonlinear internal wave was about 120 m and the period about 20 min. The horizontal and vertical velocities induced by the soliton were approximately 2 m/s and 0.5 m/s, respectively. This soliton occurred 2-3 days after a spring tide.

A study of internal solitary waves observed on the continental shelf in the northwestern South China Sea

Based on in-situ time series data from the acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) and thermistor chain in Wenchang area, a sequence of internal solitary wave (ISW) packets was observed in September 2005, propagating northwest on the continental shelf of the northwestern South China Sea (SCS). Corresponding to different stratification of the water column and tidal condition, both elevation and depression ISWs were observed at the same mooring location with amplitude of 35 m and 25 m respectively in different days. Regular arrival of the remarkable ISW packets at approximately the diurnal tidal period and the dominance of diurnal internal waves in the study area, strongly suggest that the main energy source of the waves is the diurnal tide. Notice that the wave packets were all riding on the troughs and shoulders of the internal tides, they were probably generated locally from the shelf break by the evolution of the internal tides due to nonlinear and dispersive effects.