132 resultados para breaking waves


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Rossby waves are the most important waves in the atmosphere and ocean, and are parts of a large-scale system in fluid. The theory and observation show that, they satisfy quasi-geostrophic and quasi-static equilibrium approximations. In this paper, solitary Rossby waves induced by linear topography in barotropic fluids with a shear flow are studied. In order to simplify the problem, the topography is taken as a linear function of latitude variable y, then employing a weakly nonlinear method and a perturbation method, a KdV (Korteweg-de Vries) equation describing evolution of the amplitude of solitary Rossby waves induced by linear topography is derived. The results show that the variation of linear topography can induce the solitary Rossby waves in barotropic fluids with a shear flow, and extend the classical geophysical theory of fluid dynamics.

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A fully nonlinear and dispersive model within the framework of potential theory is developed for interfacial (2-layer) waves. To circumvent the difficulties arisen from the moving boundary problem a viable technique based on the mixed Eulerian and Lagrangian concept is proposed: the computing area is partitioned by a moving mesh system which adjusts its location vertically to conform to the shape of the moving boundaries but keeps frozen in the horizontal direction. Accordingly, a modified dynamic condition is required to properly compute the boundary potentials. To demonstrate the effectiveness of the current method, two important problems for the interfacial wave dynamics, the generation and evolution processes, are investigated. Firstly, analytical solutions for the interfacial wave generations by the interaction between the barotropic tide and topography are derived and compared favorably with the numerical results. Furthermore simulations are performed for the nonlinear interfacial wave evolutions at various water depth ratios and satisfactory agreement is achieved with the existing asymptotical theories. (c) 2008 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

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The hydrodynamic interaction between two vertical cylinders in water waves is investigated based on the linearized potential flow theory. One of the two cylinders is fixed at the bottom while the other is articulated at the bottom and oscillates with small amplitudes in the direction of the incident wave. Both the diffracted wave and the radiation wave are studied in the present paper. A simple analytical expression for the velocity potential on the surface of each cylinder is obtained by means of Graf's addition theorem. The wave-excited forces and moments on the cylinders, the added masses and the radiation damping coefficients of the oscillating cylinder are all expressed explicitly in series form. The coefficients of the series are determined by solving algebraic equations. Several numerical examples are given to illustrate the effects of various parameters, such as the separation distance, the relative size of the cylinders, and the incident angle, on the first-order and steady second-order forces, the added masses and radiation-damping coefficients as well as the response of the oscillating cylinder.

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Singular perturbation theory of two-time-scale expansions was developed in inviscid fluids to investigate patternforming, structure of the single surface standing wave, and its evolution with time in a circular cylindrical vessel subject to a vertical oscillation. A nonlinear slowly varying complex amplitude equation, which involves a cubic nonlinear term, an external excitation and the influence of surface tension, was derived from the potential flow equation. Surface tension was introduced by the boundary condition of the free surface in an ideal and incompressible fluid. The results show that when forced frequency is low, the effect of surface tension on the mode selection of surface waves is not important. However, when the forced frequency is high, the surface tension cannot be neglected. This manifests that the function of surface tension is to cause the free surface to return to its equilibrium configuration. In addition, the effect of surface tension seems to make the theoretical results much closer to experimental results.

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The nonlinear free surface amplitude equation, which has been derived from the inviscid fluid by solving the potential equation of water waves with a singular perturbation theory in a vertically oscillating rigid circular cylinder, is investigated successively in the fourth-order Runge-Kutta approach with an equivalent time-step. Computational results include the evolution of the amplitude with time, the characteristics of phase plane determined by the real and imaginary parts of the amplitude, the single-mode selection rules of the surface waves in different forced frequencies, contours of free surface displacement and corresponding three-dimensional evolution of surface waves, etc. In addition, the comparison of the surface wave modes is made between theoretical calculations and experimental measurements, and the results are reasonable although there are some differences in the forced frequency.

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In the present paper, we endeavor to accomplish a diagram, which demarcates the validity ranges for interfacial wave theories in a two-layer system, to meet the needs of design in ocean engineering. On the basis of the available solutions of periodic and solitary waves, we propose a guideline as principle to identify the validity regions of the interfacial wave theories in terms of wave period T, wave height H, upper layer thickness d(1), and lower layer thickness d(2), instead of only one parameter-water depth d as in the water surface wave circumstance. The diagram proposed here happens to be Le Mehautes plot for free surface waves if water depth ratio r = d(1)/d(2) approaches to infinity and the upper layer water density rho(1) to zero. On the contrary, the diagram for water surface waves can be used for two-layer interfacial waves if gravity acceleration g in it is replaced by the reduced gravity defined in this study under the condition of sigma = (rho(2) - rho(1))/rho(2) -> 1.0 and r > 1.0. In the end, several figures of the validity ranges for various interfacial wave theories in the two-layer fluid are given and compared with the results for surface waves.

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Transition waves and interactions between two kinds of instability-vortex shedding and transition wave in the near wake of a circular cylinder in the Reynolds number range 3 000-10 000 are studied by a domain decomposition hybrid numerical method. Based on high resolution power spectral analyses for velocity new results on the Reynolds-number dependence of the transition wave frequency, i.e. f(t)/f(s) similar to Re-0.87 are obtained. The new predictions are in good agreement with the experimental results of Wei and Smith but different from Braza's prediction and some early experimental results f(t)/f(s) similar to Re-0.5 given by Bloor et nl. The multi-interactions between two kinds of vortex are clearly visualized numerically. The strong nonlinear interactions between the two independent frequencies (f(t), f(s)) leading to spectra broadening to form the coupling mf(s) +/- nf(t) are predicted and analyzed numerically, and the characteristics of the transition are described. Longitudinal variations of the transition wave and its coupling are reported. Detailed mechanism of the flow transition in the near wake before occurrence of the three-dimensional evolution is provided.

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Free surface waves in a cylinder of liquid under vertical excitation with slowly modulated amplitude are investigated in the current paper. It is shown by both theoretical analysis and numerical simulation that chaos may occur even for a single mode with modulation which can be used to explain Gollub and Meyer's experiment. The implied resonant mechanism accounting for this phenomenon is further elucidated.

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The motion of a single spherical small bubble due to buoyancy in the ideal fluid with waves is investigated theoretically and experimentally in this article. Assuming that the bubble has no effect on the wave field, equations of a bubble motion are obtained and solved. It is found that the nonlinear effect increases with the increase of the bubble radius and the rising time. The rising time and the motion orbit are given by calculations and experiments. When the radius of a bubble is smaller than 0.5mm and the distance from the free surface is greater than the wave height, the results of the present theory are in close agreement with measurements.

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The interaction of water waves and seabed is studied by using Yamamoto's model, which takes into account the deformation of soil skeletal frame, compressibility of pore fluid flow as well as the Coulumb friction. When analyzing the propagation of three kinds of stress waves in seabed, a simplified dispersion relation and a specific damping formula are derived. The problem of seabed stability is further treated analytically based on the Mohr-Coulomb theory. The theory is finally applied to the coastal problems in the Lian-Yun Harbour and compared with observations and measurements in soil-wave tank with satisfactory results.

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In this paper, the effect of the surface tension is considered carefully in the study of non-propagating solitary waves. The parameter plane of the surface tension and the fluid depth is divided into three regions; in two of them a breather soliton can be produced. In literature the parameters of breather solitons are all in one of the parameter regions. The new region reported here has been confirmed by our experiments. In the third region, the theoretical solution is a kink soliton, but a kind of the non-propagating solitary wave similar to the breather soliton was found in our experiments besides the kink soliton.

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A study of the two-dimensional flow pattern of particles in consolidation process under explosive-implosive shock waves has been performed to further understand the mechanism of shock-wave consolidation of metal powder, in which bunched low-carbon steel wires were used instead of powder. Pressure in the compact ranges from 6 to 30 GPa. Some wires were electroplated with brass, some pickled. By this means, the flow pattern at particle surfaces was observed. The interparticle bonding and microstructure have been investigated systematically for the consolidated specimens by means of optical and electron microscopy, as well as by microhardness. The experimental results presented here are qualitatively consistent with Williamson's numerical simulation result when particle arrangement is close packed, but yield more extensive information. The effect of surface condition of particle on consolidation quality was also studied in order to explore ways of increasing the strength of the compacts. Based on these experiments, a physical model for metal powder shock consolidation has been established.

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The effect of variable currents on internal solitary waves is described within the context of a variable coefficient Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation, and the approximate slowly varying, solitary-wave solution of this equation. The general theory which leads to the variable coefficient KdV equation is described; a derivation for the special case when the solitary wave and the current are aligned in the same direction is given in the Appendix. Using further simplifications and approximations, a number of analytical expressions are obtained for the variation in the solitary wave amplitude resulting from variable shear in the basic current or from when the basic current is a depth-independent flow which is a simple representation of a geostrophic current, tidal flow or inertial wave.

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A new method for measuring the density, temperature and velocity of N2 gas flow by laser induced biacetyl phosphorescence is proposed. The characteristics of the laser induced phosphorescence of biacetyl mixed with N2 are investigated both in static gas and in one-dimensional flow along a pipe with constant cross section. The theoretical and experimental investigations show that the temperature and density of N2 gas flow could be measured by observing the phosphorescence lifetime and initial intensity of biacetyl triplet (3Au) respectively. The velocity could be measured by observing the time-of-flight of the phosphorescent gas after pulsed laser excitation. The prospect of this method is also discussed.

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displacement thickness is lower than in the pure-gas case alone. The results indicate