299 resultados para Wave pumping


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Based on the second-order solutions obtained for the three-dimensional weakly nonlinear random waves propagating over a steady uniform current in finite water depth, the joint statistical distribution of the velocity and acceleration of the fluid particle in the current direction is derived using the characteristic function expansion method. From the joint distribution and the Morison equation, the theoretical distributions of drag forces, inertia forces and total random forces caused by waves propagating over a steady uniform current are determined. The distribution of inertia forces is Gaussian as that derived using the linear wave model, whereas the distributions of drag forces and total random forces deviate slightly from those derived utilizing the linear wave model. The distributions presented can be determined by the wave number spectrum of ocean waves, current speed and the second order wave-wave and wave-current interactions. As an illustrative example, for fully developed deep ocean waves, the parameters appeared in the distributions near still water level are calculated for various wind speeds and current speeds by using Donelan-Pierson-Banner spectrum and the effects of the current and the nonlinearity of ocean waves on the distribution are studied. (c) 2006 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

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In this paper, interfacial waves in three-layer stratified fluid with background current are investigated using a perturbation method, and the second-order asymptotic solutions of the velocity potentials and the second-order Stokes wave solutions of the associated elevations of the interfacial waves are presented based on the small amplitude wave theory, and the Kelvin-Helmholtz instability of interfacial waves is studied. As expected, for three-layer stratified fluid with background current, the first-order asymptotic solutions (linear wave solutions), dispersion relation and the second-order asymptotic solutions derived depend on not only the depths and densities of the three-layer fluid but also the background current of the fluids, and the second-order Stokes wave solutions of the associated elevations of the interfacial waves describe not only the second-order nonlinear wave-wave interactions between the interfacial waves but also the second-order nonlinear interactions between the interfacial waves and currents. It is also noted that the solutions obtained from the present work include the theoretical results derived by Chen et al (2005) as a special case. It also shows that with the given wave number k (real number) the interfacial waves may show Kelvin-Helmholtz instability.

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This paper considers interfacial waves propagating along the interface between a two-dimensional two-fluid with a flat bottom and a rigid upper boundary. There is a light fluid layer overlying a heavier one in the system, and a small density difference exists between the two layers. It just focuses on the weakly non-linear small amplitude waves by introducing two small independent parameters: the nonlinearity ratio epsilon, represented by the ratio of amplitude to depth, and the dispersion ratio mu, represented by the square of the ratio of depth to wave length, which quantify the relative importance of nonlinearity and dispersion. It derives an extended KdV equation of the interfacial waves using the method adopted by Dullin et al in the study of the surface waves when considering the order up to O(mu(2)). As expected, the equation derived from the present work includes, as special cases, those obtained by Dullin et al for surface waves when the surface tension is neglected. The equation derived using an alternative method here is the same as the equation presented by Choi and Camassa. Also it solves the equation by borrowing the method presented by Marchant used for surface waves, and obtains its asymptotic solitary wave solutions when the weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive terms are balanced in the extended KdV equation.

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National Science Foundation of China (No. 10032040 and No. 49874013) and Joint Earthquake Science Foundation of China (No. 101119).