SURFACE FRACTALS IN BLOCK-COPOLYMERS

A surface fractal model was presented to describe the interface in block copolymers. It gives a simple power-law relationship between the scattering intensity I(q) and the wave vector q in a relatively wide range as qxi >> 1, I(q) is-proportional-to q(D-6

Effect of low-frequency Rossby wave on thermal structure of the upper southwestern tropical Indian Ocean

We investigate the influence of low-frequency Rossby waves on the thermal structure of the upper southwestern tropical Indian Ocean (SWTIO) using Argo profiles, satellite altimetric data, sea surface temperature, wind field data and the theory of linear vertical normal mode decomposition. Our results show that the SWTIO is generally dominated by the first baroclinic mode motion. As strong downwelling Rossby waves reach the SWTIO, the contribution of the second baroclinic mode motion in this region can be increased mainly because of the reduction in the vertical stratification of the upper layer above thermocline, and the enhancement in the vertical stratification of the lower layer under thermocline also contributes to it. The vertical displacement of each isothermal is enlarged and the thermal structure of the upper level is modulated, which is indicative of strong vertical mixing. However, the cold Rossby waves increase the vertical stratification of the upper level, restricting the variability related to the second baroclinic mode. On the other hand, during decaying phase of warm Rossby waves, Ekman upwelling and advection processes associated with the surface cyclonic wind circulation can restrain the downwelling processes, carrying the relatively colder water to the near-surface, which results in an out-of-phase phenomenon between sea surface temperature anomaly (SSTA) and sea surface height anomaly (SSHA) in the SWTIO.

Responses of summertime extreme wave heights to local climate variations in the East China Sea

We detected the responses of summertime extreme wave heights (H-top10, average of the highest 10% of significant wave heights in June, July and August) to local climate variations in the East China Sea by applying an empirical orthogonal function analysis to Htop10 derived from the WAVEWATCH- III wave model driven by 6 hourly sea surface wind fields from ERA-40 reanalysis over the period 1958-2002. Decreases in H-top10 in the northern East China Sea ( Yellow Sea) correspond to attenuation of the East Asian Summer Monsoon, while increases in the south are primarily due to enhancement of tropical cyclone activities in the western North Pacific.

Long-Wave Dynamics of Sea Level Variations during Indian Ocean Dipole Events

Long-wave dynamics of the interannual variations of the equatorial Indian Ocean circulation are studied using an ocean general circulation model forced by the assimilated surface winds and heat flux of the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts. The simulation has reproduced the sea level anomalies of the Ocean Topography Experiment (TOPEX)/Poseidon altimeter observations well. The equatorial Kelvin and Rossby waves decomposed from the model simulation show that western boundary reflections provide important negative feedbacks to the evolution of the upwelling currents off the Java coast during Indian Ocean dipole (IOD) events. Two downwelling Kelvin wave pulses are generated at the western boundary during IOD events: the first is reflected from the equatorial Rossby waves and the second from the off-equatorial Rossby waves in the southern Indian Ocean. The upwelling in the eastern basin during the 1997-98 IOD event is weakened by the first Kelvin wave pulse and terminated by the second. In comparison, the upwelling during the 1994 IOD event is terminated by the first Kelvin wave pulse because the southeasterly winds off the Java coast are weak at the end of 1994. The atmospheric intraseasonal forcing, which plays an important role in inducing Java upwelling during the early stage of an IOD event, is found to play a minor role in terminating the upwelling off the Java coast because the intraseasonal winds are either weak or absent during the IOD mature phase. The equatorial wave analyses suggest that the upwelling off the Java coast during IOD events is terminated primarily by western boundary reflections.

Validation of RADARSAT-2 fully polarimetric SAR measurements of ocean surface waves

C band RADARSAT-2 fully polarimetric (fine quad-polarization mode, HH+VV+HV+VH) synthetic aperture radar (SAR) images are used to validate ocean surface waves measurements using the polarimetric SAR wave retrieval algorithm, without estimating the complex hydrodynamic modulation transfer function, even under large radar incidence angles. The linearly polarized radar backscatter cross sections (RBCS) are first calculated with the copolarization (HH, VV) and cross-polarization (HV, VH) RBCS and the polarization orientation angle. Subsequently, in the azimuth direction, the vertically and linearly polarized RBCS are used to measure the wave slopes. In the range direction, we combine horizontally and vertically polarized RBCS to estimate wave slopes. Taken together, wave slope spectra can be derived using estimated wave slopes in azimuth and range directions. Wave parameters extracted from the resultant wave slope spectra are validated with colocated National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) buoy measurements (wave periods, wavelengths, wave directions, and significant wave heights) and are shown to be in good agreement.

Wave generation by the falling rock in the two-dimensional wave tank

Wave generation by the falling rock in the two-dimensional wave tank is experimentally and numerically studied, where the numerical model utilizes the boundary element method to solve the fully nonlinear potential flow theory. The wave profiles at different times are measured in the laboratory, which are also used to test the numerical model. Comparisons show that the experimental and numerical results are in good agreement, and the numerical model can be used to simulate the wave generation due to the submarine rock falling. Further numerical tests on the influences of the rock size, density, initial position and the falling angle on the wave elevation of the generated waves are performed, respectively. The results show that the size and density of the rock have strong effects on the maximum elevation of the generated wave, while the effects of the initial position and the falling angle of the rock are also significant. When the size or the density of the rock increases, the maximum elevation of the generated wave increases. The same effect on the generated wave would be produced if the initial position of the rock becomes closer to the surface, or the falling angle between the falling route and the vertical direction turns larger. In addition, the present numerical tests reveal that the submarine rock falling provides a new generation method for the breaking wave in the wave tank.

Distribution of the nonlinear random ocean wave period

Because of the intrinsic difficulty in determining distributions for wave periods, previous studies on wave period distribution models have not taken nonlinearity into account and have not performed well in terms of describing and statistically analyzing the probability density distribution of ocean waves. In this study, a statistical model of random waves is developed using Stokes wave theory of water wave dynamics. In addition, a new nonlinear probability distribution function for the wave period is presented with the parameters of spectral density width and nonlinear wave steepness, which is more reasonable as a physical mechanism. The magnitude of wave steepness determines the intensity of the nonlinear effect, while the spectral width only changes the energy distribution. The wave steepness is found to be an important parameter in terms of not only dynamics but also statistics. The value of wave steepness reflects the degree that the wave period distribution skews from the Cauchy distribution, and it also describes the variation in the distribution function, which resembles that of the wave surface elevation distribution and wave height distribution. We found that the distribution curves skew leftward and upward as the wave steepness increases. The wave period observations for the SZFII-1 buoy, made off the coast of Weihai (37A degrees 27.6' N, 122A degrees 15.1' E), China, are used to verify the new distribution. The coefficient of the correlation between the new distribution and the buoy data at different spectral widths (nu=0.3-0.5) is within the range of 0.968 6 to 0.991 7. In addition, the Longuet-Higgins (1975) and Sun (1988) distributions and the new distribution presented in this work are compared. The validations and comparisons indicate that the new nonlinear probability density distribution fits the buoy measurements better than the Longuet-Higgins and Sun distributions do. We believe that adoption of the new wave period distribution would improve traditional statistical wave theory.

Generation of internal and surface waves by seafloor movement in a two layer fluid system

Internal and surface waves generated by the deformations of the solid bed in a two layer fluid system of infinite lateral extent and uniform depth are investigated. An integral solution is developed for an arbitrary bed displacement on the basis of a linear approximation of the complete description of wave motion using a transform method (Laplace in time and Fourier in space) analogous to that used to study the generation of tsunamis by many researchers. The theoretical solutions are presented for three interesting specific deformations of the seafloor; the spatial variation of each seafloor displacement consists of a block section of the seafloor moving vertically either up or down while the time-displacement history of the block section is varied. The generation process and the profiles of the internal and surface waves for the case of the exponential bed movement are numerically illustrated, and the effects of the deformation parameters, densities and depths of the two layers on the solutions are discussed. As expected, the solutions derived from the present work include as special cases that obtained by Kervella et al. [Theor Comput Fluid Dyn 21:245-269, 2007] for tsunamis cased by an instantaneous seabed deformation and those presented by Hammack [J Fluid Mech 60:769-799, 1973] for the exponential and the half-sine bed displacements when the density of the upper fluid is taken as zero.

The effects of random surface waves on the steady Ekman current solutions

The response of near-surface current profiles to wind and random surface waves are studied based on the approach of Jenkins [1989. The use of a wave prediction model for driving a near surface current model. Dtsch. Hydrogr. Z. 42,134-149] and Tang et al. [2007. Observation and modeling of surface currents on the Grand Banks: a study of the wave effects on surface currents. J. Geophys. Res. 112, C10025, doi:10.1029/2006JC004028]. Analytic steady solutions are presented for wave-modified Ekman equations resulting from Stokes drift, wind input and wave dissipation for a depth-independent constant eddy viscosity coefficient and one that varies linearly with depth. The parameters involved in the solutions can be determined by the two-dimensional wavenumber spectrum of ocean waves, wind speed, the Coriolis parameter and the densities of air and water, and the solutions reduce to those of Lewis and Belcher [2004. Time-dependent, coupled, Ekman boundary layer solutions incorporating Stokes drift. Dyn. Atmos. Oceans. 37, 313-351] when only the effects of Stokes drift are included. As illustrative examples, for a fully developed wind-generated sea with different wind speeds, wave-modified current profiles are calculated and compared with the classical Ekman theory and Lewis and Belcher's [2004. Time-dependent, coupled, Ekman boundary layer solutions incorporating Stokes drift. Dyn. Atmos. Oceans 37, 313-351] modification by using the Donelan and Pierson [1987. Radar scattering and equilibrium ranges in wind-generated waves with application to scatterometry. J. Geophys. Res. 92, 4971-5029] wavenumber spectrum, the WAM wave model formulation for wind input energy to waves, and wave energy dissipation converted to currents. Illustrative examples for a fully developed sea and the comparisons between observations and the theoretical predictions demonstrate that the effects of the random surface waves on the classical Ekman current are important, as they change qualitatively the nature of the Ekman layer. But the effects of the wind input and wave dissipation on surface current are small, relative to the impact of the Stokes drift. (C) 2008 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Numerical modeling of water wave interaction with a soft mud bed

A vertical 2-D numerical model is presented for simulating the interaction between water waves and a soft mud bed. Taking into account nonlinear rheology, a semi-empirical rheological model is applied to this water-mud model, reflecting the combined visco-elasto-plastic properties of soft mud under such oscillatory external forces as water waves. In order to increase the resolution of the flow in the neighborhood of both sides of the inter-surface, a logarithmic grid in the vertical direction is employed for numerical treatment. Model verifications are given through comparisons between the calculated and the measured mud mass transport velocities as well as wave height changes.

Influence of mean water depth and a subsurface sandbar on the onset and strength of wave breaking

Wave breaking in the open ocean and coastal zones remains an intriguing yet incompletely understood process, with a strong observed association with wave groups. Recent numerical study of the evolution of fully nonlinear, two-dimensional deep water wave groups identified a robust threshold of a diagnostic growth-rate parameter that separated nonlinear wave groups that evolved to breaking from those that evolved with recurrence. This paper investigates whether these deep water wave-breaking results apply more generally, particularly in finite-water-depth conditions. For unforced nonlinear wave groups in intermediate water depths over a flat bottom, it was found that the upper bound of the diagnostic growth-rate threshold parameter established for deep water wave groups is also applicable in intermediate water depths, given by k(0) h greater than or equal to 2, where k(0) is the mean carrier wavenumber and h is the mean depth. For breaking onset over an idealized circular arc sandbar located on an otherwise flat, intermediate-depth (k(0) h greater than or equal to 2) environment, the deep water breaking diagnostic growth rate was found to be applicable provided that the height of the sandbar is less than one-quarter of the ambient mean water depth. Thus, for this range of intermediate-depth conditions, these two classes of bottom topography modify only marginally the diagnostic growth rate found for deep water waves. However, when intermediate-depth wave groups ( k(0) h greater than or equal to 2) shoal over a sandbar whose height exceeds one-half of the ambient water depth, the waves can steepen significantly without breaking. In such cases, the breaking threshold level and the maximum of the diagnostic growth rate increase systematically with the height of the sandbar. Also, the dimensions and position of the sandbar influenced the evolution and breaking threshold of wave groups. For sufficiently high sandbars, the effects of bottom topography can induce additional nonlinearity into the wave field geometry and associated dynamics that modifies the otherwise robust deep water breaking-threshold results.

Joint statistical distribution of two-point sea surface elevations in finite water depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, a joint statistical distribution of two-point sea surface elevations is derived by using the characteristic function expansion method. It is found that the joint distribution depends on five parameters. These five parameters can all be determined by the water depth, the relative position of two points and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, for fully developed wind-generated sea, the parameters that appeared in the joint distribution are calculated for various wind speeds, water depths and relative positions of two points by using the Donelan and Pierson spectrum and the nonlinear effects of sea waves on the joint distribution are studied. (C) 2003 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

On the nonlinear integral transform of an ocean wave spectrum into an along-track interferometric synthetic aperture radar image spectrum

We present a new nonlinear integral transform relating the ocean wave spectrum to the along-track interferometric synthetic aperture radar (AT-INSAR) image spectrum. The AT-INSAR, which is a synthetic aperture radar (SAR) employing two antennas displaced along the platform's flight direction, is considered to be a better instrument for imaging ocean waves than the SAR. This is because the AT-INSAR yields the phase spectrum and not only the amplitude spectrum as with the conventional SAR. While the SAR and AT-INSAR amplitude spectra depend strongly on the modulation of the normalized radar cross section (NRCS) by the long ocean waves, which is poorly known, the phase spectrum depends only weakly on this modulation. By measuring the phase difference between the signals received by both antennas, AT-INSAR measures the radial component of the orbital velocity associated with the ocean waves, which is related to the ocean wave height field by a well-known transfer function. The nonlinear integral transform derived in this paper differs from the one previously derived by Bao et al. [1999] by an additional term containing the derivative of the radial component of the orbital velocity associated with the long ocean waves. By carrying out numerical simulations, we show that, in general, this additional term cannot be neglected. Furthermore, we present two new quasi-linear approximations to the nonlinear integral transform relating the ocean wave spectrum to the AT-INSAR phase spectrum.

Numerical wave flume study on wave motion around submerged plates

Nonlinear interaction between surface waves and a submerged horizontal plate is investigated in the absorbed numerical wave flume developed based on the volume of fluid (VOF) method. The governing equations of the numerical model are the continuity equation and the Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations with the k-epsilon turbulence equations. Incident waves are generated by an absorbing wave-maker that eliminates the waves reflected from structures. Results are obtained for a range of parameters, with consideration of the condition under which the reflection coefficient becomes maximal and the transmission coefficient minimal. Wave breaking over the plate, vortex shedding downwave, and pulsating flow below the plate are observed. Time-averaged hydrodynamic force reveals a negative drift force. All these characteristics provide a reference for construction of submerged plate breakwaters.

Ocean wave imaging mechanism by imaging radar

Analytical representations of the high frequency spectra of ocean wave and its variation due to the variation of ocean surface current are derived from the wave-number spectrum balance equation. The ocean surface imaging formulation of real aperture radar (RAR) is given using electromagnetic wave backscattering theory of ocean surface and the modulations of ocean surface winds, currents and their variations to RAR are described. A general representation of the phase modulation induced by the ocean surface motion is derived according to standard synthetic aperture radar (SAR) imaging theory. The detectability of ocean current and sea bottom topography by imaging radar is discussed. The results constitute the theoretical basis for detecting ocean wave fields, ocean surface winds, ocean surface current fields, sea bottom topography, internal wave and so on.