Hydrodynamic interaction between two vertical cylinders in water waves

The hydrodynamic interaction between two vertical cylinders in water waves is investigated based on the linearized potential flow theory. One of the two cylinders is fixed at the bottom while the other is articulated at the bottom and oscillates with small amplitudes in the direction of the incident wave. Both the diffracted wave and the radiation wave are studied in the present paper. A simple analytical expression for the velocity potential on the surface of each cylinder is obtained by means of Graf's addition theorem. The wave-excited forces and moments on the cylinders, the added masses and the radiation damping coefficients of the oscillating cylinder are all expressed explicitly in series form. The coefficients of the series are determined by solving algebraic equations. Several numerical examples are given to illustrate the effects of various parameters, such as the separation distance, the relative size of the cylinders, and the incident angle, on the first-order and steady second-order forces, the added masses and radiation-damping coefficients as well as the response of the oscillating cylinder.

On the interaction of water waves and seabed by the porous medium model

The interaction of water waves and seabed is studied by using Yamamoto's model, which takes into account the deformation of soil skeletal frame, compressibility of pore fluid flow as well as the Coulumb friction. When analyzing the propagation of three kinds of stress waves in seabed, a simplified dispersion relation and a specific damping formula are derived. The problem of seabed stability is further treated analytically based on the Mohr-Coulomb theory. The theory is finally applied to the coastal problems in the Lian-Yun Harbour and compared with observations and measurements in soil-wave tank with satisfactory results.

Modelling of submarine landslides and generated water waves

The slide of unstable sedimentary bodies and their hydraulic effects are studied by numerical means. A two-dimensional fluid mechanics model based on Navier-Stokes equations has been developed considering the sediments and water as a mixture. Viscoplastic and diffusion laws for the sediments have been introduced into the model. The numerical model is validated with an analytical solution for a Bingham flow. Laboratory experiments consisting in the slide of gravel mass have been carried out. The results of these experiments have shown the importance of the sediment rheology and the diffusion. The model parameters are adjusted by trial and error to match the observed “sandflow”.

On the radiation and diffraction of linear water waves by an infinitely long rectangular structure submerged in oblique seas

The radiation and diffraction of linear water waves by an infinitely long rectangular structure submerged in oblique seas of finite depth is investigated. The analytical expressions for the radiated and diffracted potentials are derived as infinite series by use of the method of separation of variables. The unknown coefficients in the series are determined by the eigenfunction expansion matching method. The expressions for wave forces, hydrodynamic coefficients and reflection and transmission coefficients are given and verified by the boundary element method. Using the present analytical solution, the hydrodynamic influences of the angle of incidence, the submergence, the width and the thickness of the structure on the wave forces, hydrodynamic coefficients, and reflection and transmission coefficients are discussed in detail.

Scattering of linear water waves by a fixed and infinitely long rectangular structure parallel to a vertical wall in oblique seas

The scattering of linear water waves by an infinitely long rectangular structure parallel to a vertical wall in oblique seas is investigated. Analytical expressions for the diffracted potentials are derived using the method of separation of variables. The unknown coefficients in the expressions are determined through the application of the eigenfunction expansion matching method. The expressions for wave forces on the structure are given. The calculated results are compared with those obtained by the boundary element method. In addition, the influences of the wall, the angle of wave incidence, the width of the structure, and the distance between the structure and the wall on wave forces are discussed. The method presented here can be easily extended to the study of the diffraction of obliquely incident waves by multiple rectangular structures.

A unified criterion for initiation of sediment motion and inception of sheet flow under water waves

A unified criterion is developed for initiation of non-cohesive sediment motion and inception of sheet flow under water waves over a horizontal bed of sediment based on presently available experimental data. The unified threshold criterion is of the single form, U-o = 2 pi C[1 + 5(T-R/T)(2)](-1/4), where U-o is the onset velocity of sediment motion or sheet flow, T is wave period, and C and T-R are the coefficients. It is found that for a given sediment, U-o initially increases sharply with wave period, then gradually approaches the maximum onset velocity U-o = 2 pi C and becomes independent of T when T is larger. The unified criterion can also be extended to define sediment initial motion and sheet flow under irregular waves provided the significant wave orbital velocity and period of irregular waves are introduced in this unified criterion.

Simulations of oil spread on a water surface

Numerical simulation of an oil slick spreading on still and wavy surfaces is described in this paper. The so-called sigma transformation is used to transform the time-varying physical domain into a fixed calculation domain for the water wave motions and, at the same time, the continuity equation is changed into an advection equation of wave elevation. This evolution equation is discretized by the forward time and central space scheme, and the momentum equations by the projection method. A damping zone is set up in front of the outlet boundary coupled with a Sommerfeld-Orlanski condition at that boundary to minimize the wave reflection. The equations for the oil slick are depth-averaged and coupled with the water motions when solving numerically. As examples, sinusoidal and solitary water waves, the oil spread on a smooth plane and on still and wavy water surfaces are calculated to examine the accuracy of simulating water waves by Navier-Stokes equations, the effect of damping zone on wave reflection and the precise structures of oil spread on waves.

Nonlinear Faraday Waves in a Parametrically Excited Circular Cylindrical Container

In the cylindrical coordinate system, a singular perturbation theory of multiple-scale asymptotic expansions was developed to study single standing water wave mode by solving potential equations of water waves in a rigid circular cylinder, which is subjec

Surface waves in a vertically excited circular cylindrical container

The nonlinear free surface amplitude equation, which has been derived from the inviscid fluid by solving the potential equation of water waves with a singular perturbation theory in a vertically oscillating rigid circular cylinder, is investigated successively in the fourth-order Runge-Kutta approach with an equivalent time-step. Computational results include the evolution of the amplitude with time, the characteristics of phase plane determined by the real and imaginary parts of the amplitude, the single-mode selection rules of the surface waves in different forced frequencies, contours of free surface displacement and corresponding three-dimensional evolution of surface waves, etc. In addition, the comparison of the surface wave modes is made between theoretical calculations and experimental measurements, and the results are reasonable although there are some differences in the forced frequency.

Interaction of linear waves with infinitely long horizontal cylinders studied by boundary element method

The two-dimensional problems concerning the interaction of linear water waves with cylinders of arbitrary shape in two-layer deep water are investigated by use of the Boundary Integral Equation method (BIEM). Simpler new expressions for the Green functions are derived, and verified by comparison of results obtained by BIEM with these by an analytical method. Examined are the radiation and scattering of linear waves by two typical configurations of cylinders in two-layer deep water. Hydrodynamic behaviors including hydrodynamic coefficients, wave forces, reflection and transmission coefficients and energies are analyzed in detail, and some interesting physical phenomena are observed.

Short and long waves over a muddy seabed

The available experimental results have shown that in time-periodic motion the rheology of fluid mud displays complex viscoelastic behaviour. Based on the measured rheology of fluid mud from two field sites, we study the interaction of water waves and fluid mud by a two-layered model in which the water above is assumed to be inviscid and the mud below is viscoelastic. As the fluid-mud layer in shallow seas is usually much thinner than the water layer above, the sharp contrast of scales enables an approximate analytical theory for the interaction between fluid mud and small-amplitude waves with a narrow frequency band. It is shown that at the leading order and within a short distance of a few wavelengths, wave pressure from above forces mud motion below. Over a Much longer distance, waves are modified by the accumulative dissipation in mud. At the next order, infragravity waves owing to convective inertia (or radiation stresses) are affected indirectly by mud motion through the slow modulation of the short waves. Quantitative predictions are made for mud samples of several concentrations and from two different field sites.

Strongly nonlinear long interfacial waves in uniform basic flows and their dispersion relationship

In this paper, long interfacial waves of finite amplitude in uniform basic flows are considered with the assumption that the aspect ratio between wavelength and water depth is small. A new model is derived using the velocities at arbitrary distances from the still water level as the velocity variables instead of the commonly used depth-averaged velocities. This significantly improves the dispersion properties and makes them applicable to a wider range of water depths. Since its derivation requires no assumption on wave amplitude, the model thus can be used to describe waves with arbitrary amplitude.

Numerical modeling of water wave interaction with a soft mud bed

A vertical 2-D numerical model is presented for simulating the interaction between water waves and a soft mud bed. Taking into account nonlinear rheology, a semi-empirical rheological model is applied to this water-mud model, reflecting the combined visco-elasto-plastic properties of soft mud under such oscillatory external forces as water waves. In order to increase the resolution of the flow in the neighborhood of both sides of the inter-surface, a logarithmic grid in the vertical direction is employed for numerical treatment. Model verifications are given through comparisons between the calculated and the measured mud mass transport velocities as well as wave height changes.

Influence of mean water depth and a subsurface sandbar on the onset and strength of wave breaking

Wave breaking in the open ocean and coastal zones remains an intriguing yet incompletely understood process, with a strong observed association with wave groups. Recent numerical study of the evolution of fully nonlinear, two-dimensional deep water wave groups identified a robust threshold of a diagnostic growth-rate parameter that separated nonlinear wave groups that evolved to breaking from those that evolved with recurrence. This paper investigates whether these deep water wave-breaking results apply more generally, particularly in finite-water-depth conditions. For unforced nonlinear wave groups in intermediate water depths over a flat bottom, it was found that the upper bound of the diagnostic growth-rate threshold parameter established for deep water wave groups is also applicable in intermediate water depths, given by k(0) h greater than or equal to 2, where k(0) is the mean carrier wavenumber and h is the mean depth. For breaking onset over an idealized circular arc sandbar located on an otherwise flat, intermediate-depth (k(0) h greater than or equal to 2) environment, the deep water breaking diagnostic growth rate was found to be applicable provided that the height of the sandbar is less than one-quarter of the ambient mean water depth. Thus, for this range of intermediate-depth conditions, these two classes of bottom topography modify only marginally the diagnostic growth rate found for deep water waves. However, when intermediate-depth wave groups ( k(0) h greater than or equal to 2) shoal over a sandbar whose height exceeds one-half of the ambient water depth, the waves can steepen significantly without breaking. In such cases, the breaking threshold level and the maximum of the diagnostic growth rate increase systematically with the height of the sandbar. Also, the dimensions and position of the sandbar influenced the evolution and breaking threshold of wave groups. For sufficiently high sandbars, the effects of bottom topography can induce additional nonlinearity into the wave field geometry and associated dynamics that modifies the otherwise robust deep water breaking-threshold results.

The nonlinear evolution equation on the shallow water wave

Based on the variation principle, the nonlinear evolution model for the shallow water waves is established. The research shows the Duffing equation can be introduced to the evolution model of water wave with time.