Observations of turbulence within the surf and swash zone of a field-scale sandy laboratory beach

Current coastal-evolution models generally lack the ability to accurately predict bed level change in shallow (<~2 m) water, which is, at least partly, due to the preclusion of the effect of surface-induced turbulence on sand suspension and transport. As a first step to remedy this situation, we investigated the vertical structure of turbulence in the surf and swash zone using measurements collected under random shoaling and plunging waves on a steep (initially 1:15) field-scale sandy laboratory beach. Seaward of the swash zone, turbulence was measured with a vertical array of three Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADVs), while in the swash zone two vertically spaced acoustic doppler velocimeter profilers (Vectrino profilers) were applied. The vertical turbulence structure evolves from bottom-dominated to approximately vertically uniform with an increase in the fraction of breaking waves to ~ 50%. In the swash zone, the turbulence is predominantly bottom-induced during the backwash and shows a homogeneous turbulence profile during uprush. We further find that the instantaneous turbulence kinetic energy is phase-coupled with the short-wave orbital motion under the plunging breakers, with higher levels shortly after the reversal from offshore to onshore motion (i.e. wavefront).

Swell dissipation from 10 years of Envisat ASAR in wave mode

Swells are found in all oceans and strongly influence the wave climate and air-sea processes. The poorly known swell dissipation is the largest source of error in wave forecasts and hindcasts. We use synthetic aperture radar data to identify swell sources and trajectories, allowing a statistically significant estimation of swell dissipation. We mined the entire Envisat mission 2003–2012 to find suitable storms with swells (13 < T < 18 s) that are observed several times along their propagation. This database of swell events provides a comprehensive view of swell extending previous efforts. The analysis reveals that swell dissipation weakly correlates with the wave steepness, wind speed, orbital wave velocity, and the relative direction of wind and waves. Although several negative dissipation rates are found, there are uncertainties in the synthetic aperture radar-derived swell heights and dissipation rates. An acceptable range of the swell dissipation rate is −0.1 to 6 × 10−7 m−1 with a median of 1 × 10−7 m−1.

Wave climate in the Arctic 1992-2014: seasonality and trends

Over the past decade, the diminishing Arctic sea ice has impacted the wave field, which depends on the ice-free ocean and wind. This study characterizes the wave climate in the Arctic spanning 1992–2014 from a merged altimeter data set and a wave hindcast that uses CFSR winds and ice concentrations from satellites as input. The model performs well, verified by the altimeters, and is relatively consistent for climate studies. The wave seasonality and extremes are linked to the ice coverage, wind strength, and wind direction, creating distinct features in the wind seas and swells. The altimeters and model show that the reduction of sea ice coverage causes increasing wave heights instead of the wind. However, trends are convoluted by interannual climate oscillations like the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) and Pacific Decadal Oscillation. In the Nordic Greenland Sea the NAO influences the decreasing wind speeds and wave heights. Swells are becoming more prevalent and wind-sea steepness is declining. The satellite data show the sea ice minimum occurs later in fall when the wind speeds increase. This creates more favorable conditions for wave development. Therefore we expect the ice freeze-up in fall to be the most critical season in the Arctic and small changes in ice cover, wind speeds, and wave heights can have large impacts to the evolution of the sea ice throughout the year. It is inconclusive how important wave–ice processes are within the climate system, but selected events suggest the importance of waves within the marginal ice zone.

CATARINA 2012-Leg 1 - CTD-O2 Data report

The CATARINA Leg1 cruise was carried out from June 22 to July 24 2012 on board the B/O Sarmiento de Gamboa, under the scientific supervision of Aida Rios (CSIC-IIM). It included the occurrence of the OVIDE hydrological section that was performed in June 2002, 2004, 2006, 2008 and 2010, as part of the CLIVAR program (name A25) ), and under the supervision of Herlé Mercier (CNRSLPO). This section begins near Lisbon (Portugal), runs through the West European Basin and the Iceland Basin, crosses the Reykjanes Ridge (300 miles north of Charlie-Gibbs Fracture Zone, and ends at Cape Hoppe (southeast tip of Greenland). The objective of this repeated hydrological section is to monitor the variability of water mass properties and main current transports in the basin, complementing the international observation array relevant for climate studies. In addition, the Labrador Sea was partly sampled (stations 101-108) between Greenland and Newfoundland, but heavy weather conditions prevented the achievement of the section south of 53°40’N. The quality of CTD data is essential to reach the first objective of the CATARINA project, i.e. to quantify the Meridional Overturning Circulation and water mass ventilation changes and their effect on the changes in the anthropogenic carbon ocean uptake and storage capacity. The CATARINA project was mainly funded by the Spanish Ministry of Sciences and Innovation and co-funded by the Fondo Europeo de Desarrollo Regional. The hydrological OVIDE section includes 95 surface-bottom stations from coast to coast, collecting profiles of temperature, salinity, oxygen and currents, spaced by 2 to 25 Nm depending on the steepness of the topography. The position of the stations closely follows that of OVIDE 2002. In addition, 8 stations were carried out in the Labrador Sea. From the 24 bottles closed at various depth at each stations, samples of sea water are used for salinity and oxygen calibration, and for measurements of biogeochemical components that are not reported here. The data were acquired with a Seabird CTD (SBE911+) and an SBE43 for the dissolved oxygen, belonging to the Spanish UTM group. The software SBE data processing was used after decoding and cleaning the raw data. Then, the LPO matlab toolbox was used to calibrate and bin the data as it was done for the previous OVIDE cruises, using on the one hand pre and post-cruise calibration results for the pressure and temperature sensors (done at Ifremer) and on the other hand the water samples of the 24 bottles of the rosette at each station for the salinity and dissolved oxygen data. A final accuracy of 0.002°C, 0.002 psu and 0.04 ml/l (2.3 umol/kg) was obtained on final profiles of temperature, salinity and dissolved oxygen, compatible with international requirements issued from the WOCE program.