5 resultados para Waves and tides

em Archimer: Archive de l'Institut francais de recherche pour l'exploitation de la mer


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Interactions between surface waves and sea ice are thought to be an important, but poorly understood, physical process in the atmosphere-ice-ocean system. In this work, airborne scanning lidar was used to observe ocean waves propagating into the marginal ice zone (MIZ). These represent the first direct spatial measurements of the surface wave field in the polar MIZ. Data were compared against two attenuation models, one based on viscous dissipation and one based on scattering. Both models were capable of reproducing the measured wave energy. The observed wavenumber dependence of attenuation was found to be consistent with viscous processes, while the spectral spreading of higher wavenumbers suggested a scattering mechanism. Both models reproduced a change in peak direction due to preferential directional filtering. Floe sizes were recorded using co-located visible imagery, and their distribution was found to be consistent with ice breakup by the wave field.

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Theoretical ecology predicts that heterogeneous habitats allow more species to co-exist in a given area. In the deep sea, biodiversity is positively linked with ecosystem functioning, suggesting that deep-seabed heterogeneity could influence ecosystem functions and the relationships between biodiversity and ecosystem functioning (BEF). To shed light on the BEF relationships in a heterogeneous deep seabed, we investigated variations in meiofaunal biodiversity, biomass and ecosystem efficiency within and among different seabed morphologies (e.g., furrows, erosional troughs, sediment waves and other depositional structures, landslide scars and deposits) in a narrow geo-morphologically articulated sector of the Adriatic Sea. We show that distinct seafloor morphologies are characterized by highly diverse nematode assemblages, whereas areas sharing similar seabed morphologies host similar nematode assemblages. BEF relationships are consistently positive across the entire region, but different seabed morphologies are characterised by different slope coefficients of the relationship. Our results suggest that seafloor heterogeneity, allowing diversified assemblages across different habitats, increases diversity and influence ecosystem processes at the regional scale, and BEF relationships at smaller spatial scales. We conclude that high-resolution seabed mapping and a detailed analysis of the species distribution at the habitat scale are crucial for improving management of goods and services delivered by deep-sea ecosystems.

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Numerous ecological problems of continental shelf ecosystems require a refined knowledge of the evolution of suspended sediment concentrations (SSC). The present investigation focuses on the spatial and temporal variabilities of near-surface SSC in coastal waters of the English Channel (western Europe) by exploiting numerical predictions from the Regional Ocean Modeling System ROMS. Extending previous investigations of ROMS performances in the Channel, this analysis refines, with increased spatial and temporal resolutions, the characterization of near-surface SSC patterns revealing areas where concentrations are highly correlated with evolutions of tides and waves. Significant tidal modulations of near-surface concentrations are thus found in the eastern English Channel and the French Dover Strait while a pronounced influence of waves is exhibited in the Channel Islands Gulf. Coastal waters present furthermore strong SSC temporal variations, particularly noticeable during storm events of autumn and winter, with maximum near-surface concentrations exceeding 40 mg l−1 and increase by a factor from 10 to 18 in comparison with time-averaged concentrations. This temporal variability strongly depends on the granulometric distribution of suspended sediments characterized by local bi-modal contributions of silts and sands off coastal irregularities of the Isle of Wight, the Cotentin Peninsula and the southern Dover Strait.

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Wind-generated waves in the Kara, Laptev, and East-Siberian Seas are investigated using altimeter data from Envisat RA-2 and SARAL-AltiKa. Only isolated ice-free zones had been selected for analysis. Wind seas can be treated as pure wind-generated waves without any contamination by ambient swell. Such zones were identified using ice concentration data from microwave radiometers. Altimeter data, both significant wave height (SWH) and wind speed, for these areas were further obtained for the period 2002-2012 using Envisat RA-2 measurements, and for 2013 using SARAL-AltiKa. Dependencies of dimensionless SWH and wavelength on dimensionless wave generation spatial scale are compared to known empirical dependencies for fetch-limited wind wave development. We further check sensitivity of Ka- and Ku-band and discuss new possibilities that AltiKa's higher resolution can open.

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The ocean bottom pressure records from eight stations of the Cascadia array are used to investigate the properties of short surface gravity waves with frequencies ranging from 0.2 to 5 Hz. It is found that the pressure spectrum at all sites is a well-defined function of the wind speed U10 and frequency f, with only a minor shift of a few dB from one site to another that can be attributed to variations in bottom properties. This observation can be combined with the theoretical prediction that the ocean bottom pressure spectrum is proportional to the surface gravity wave spectrum E(f) squared, times the overlap integral I(f) which is given by the directional wave spectrum at each frequency. This combination, using E(f) estimated from modeled spectra or parametric spectra, yields an overlap integral I(f) that is a function of the local wave age inline image. This function is maximum for f∕fPM = 8 and decreases by 10 dB for f∕fPM = 2 and f∕fPM = 30. This shape of I(f) can be interpreted as a maximum width of the directional wave spectrum at f∕fPM = 8, possibly equivalent to an isotropic directional spectrum, and a narrower directional distribution toward both the dominant low frequencies and the higher capillary-gravity wave frequencies.