Tracking the attenuation and nonbreaking dissipation of swells using altimeters

A method for systematically tracking swells across oceanic basins is developed by taking advantage of high-quality data from space-borne altimeters and wave model output. The evolution of swells is observed over large distances based on 202 swell events with periods ranging from 12 to 18 s. An empirical attenuation rate of swell energy of about 4 × 10−7 m−1 is estimated using these observations, and the nonbreaking energy dissipation rates of swells far away from their generating areas are also estimated using a point source model. The resulting acceptance range of nonbreaking dissipation rates is −2.5 to 5.0 × 10−7 m−1, which corresponds to a dissipation e-folding scales of at least 2000 km for steep swells, to almost infinite for small-amplitude swells. These resulting rates are consistent with previous studies using in-situ and synthetic aperture radar (SAR) observations. The frequency dispersion and angular spreading effects during swell propagation are discussed by comparing the results with other studies, demonstrating that they are the two dominant processes for swell height attenuation, especially in the near field. The resulting dissipation rates from these observations can be used as a reference for ocean engineering and wave modeling, and for related studies such as air-sea and wind-wave-turbulence interactions.

Formulation and analysis of a diffusion-velocity particle model for transport-dispersion equations

The modelling of diffusive terms in particle methods is a delicate matter and several models were proposed in the literature to take such terms into account. The diffusion velocity method (DVM), originally designed for the diffusion of passive scalars, turns diffusive terms into convective ones by expressing them as a divergence involving a so-called diffusion velocity. In this paper, DVM is extended to the diffusion of vectorial quantities in the three-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations, in their incompressible, velocity–vorticity formulation. The integration of a large eddy simulation (LES) turbulence model is investigated and a DVM general formulation is proposed. Either with or without LES, a novel expression of the diffusion velocity is derived, which makes it easier to approximate and which highlights the analogy with the original formulation for scalar transport. From this statement, DVM is then analysed in one dimension, both analytically and numerically on test cases to point out its good behaviour.