Observations of turbulence within the surf and swash zone of a field-scale sandy laboratory beach

Current coastal-evolution models generally lack the ability to accurately predict bed level change in shallow (<~2 m) water, which is, at least partly, due to the preclusion of the effect of surface-induced turbulence on sand suspension and transport. As a first step to remedy this situation, we investigated the vertical structure of turbulence in the surf and swash zone using measurements collected under random shoaling and plunging waves on a steep (initially 1:15) field-scale sandy laboratory beach. Seaward of the swash zone, turbulence was measured with a vertical array of three Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADVs), while in the swash zone two vertically spaced acoustic doppler velocimeter profilers (Vectrino profilers) were applied. The vertical turbulence structure evolves from bottom-dominated to approximately vertically uniform with an increase in the fraction of breaking waves to ~ 50%. In the swash zone, the turbulence is predominantly bottom-induced during the backwash and shows a homogeneous turbulence profile during uprush. We further find that the instantaneous turbulence kinetic energy is phase-coupled with the short-wave orbital motion under the plunging breakers, with higher levels shortly after the reversal from offshore to onshore motion (i.e. wavefront).

“Deep-Arvor”: A new profiling float to extend the Argo observations down to 4000m depth.

The international Argo program, consisting of a global array of more than 3000 free-drifting profiling floats, has now been monitoring the upper 2000 meters of the ocean for several years. One of its main proposed evolutions is to be able to reach the deeper ocean in order to better observe and understand the key role of the deep ocean in the climate system. For this purpose, Ifremer has designed the new “Deep-Arvor” profiling float: it extends the current operational depth down to 4000 meters, and measures temperature and salinity for up to 150 cycles with CTD pumping continuously and 200 cycles in spot sampling mode. High resolution profiles (up to 2000 points) can be transmitted and data are delivered in near real time according to Argo requirements. Deep-Arvor can be deployed everywhere at sea without any pre-ballasting operation and its light weight (~ 26kg) makes its launching easy. Its design was done to target a cost effective solution. Predefined spots have been allocated to add an optional oxygen sensor and a connector for an extra sensor. Extensive laboratory tests were successful. The results of the first at sea experiments showed that the expected performances of the operational prototypes had been reached (i.e. to perform up to 150 cycles). Meanwhile, the industrialization phase was completed in order to manufacture the Deep-Arvor float for the pilot experiment in 2015. In this paper, we detail all the steps of the development work and present the results from the at sea experiments.