Features of wave field, its effect to erosion - deposition processes in the Cua Dai (Hoi An), Cai river mouth (Nha Trang) and Phan Thiet Bay in typical local wind conditions

Based on the hydrodynamic model and Shore Protection Manual (CERC - USA) we have calculated wave field characteristics in the typical wind conditions (wind velocity equal to 13m/s in the high frequency direction of the wind regime). Comparison between measured and calculated wave parameters was presented and these results were corresponded to each other. The following main wave characteristics were calculated: -Pattern of the refraction wave field. -Average wave height field. -Longshore current velocity field in surf zone. From distribution features of wave field characteristics in research areas, it could be summarized as following: - The formation of wave fields in the research areas was unequal because of their local difference of hydrometeorological conditions, river discharge, bottom relief… - At Cuadai (Dai mouth, Hoian) area in the N direction of incident wave field, wave has caused serious variation of the coastline. The coastline in the whole region, especially, at the south of the mouth was eroded and the foreland in the north of the mouth was deposited. - At Cai river mouth (Nhatrang) area in the E direction of incident wave field, wave has effected strongly and directly to the inshore and channel structure. - At Phanthiet bay area in the SW direction of incident wave field, wave has effected strongly to the whole shoreline from Da point to Ne point and caused serious erosion.

Three dimensional circulation of water with variable wind in the Caspian Sea

This research is based on a numerical model for forecasting the three-dimensional behavior of (sea) water motion due to the effect of a variable wind velocity. The results obtained are then analyzed and compared with observation. This model is based on the equations that overcome the current and distribution of temperature by applying the method of finite difference with assuming Δx, Δy as constant and Δz, variable. The model is based on the momentum equation, continuity equation and thermodynamic energy equation and tension at the surface and middle layers and bottom stress. The horizontal and vertical eddy viscosity and thermal diffusivity coefficients we used in accordance with that of the Bennet on Outario Lake (1977). Considering the Caspian Sea dimension in numerical model the Coriolis parameter used with β effects and the approximation Boussines have been used. For the program controlling some simple experiment with boundary condition similar to that of the Caspian Sea have been done. For modeling the Caspian Sea the grid of the field was done as follows: At horizontal surface grid size is 10×10km extension and at vertical in 10 layers with varying thickness from surface to bed respectively as: 5, 10, 20, 3, 50, 100, 150, 200, 25, 500 and higher. The data of wind as velocity، direction and temperature of water related to 15th September 1995 at 6،12 and 18 o’clock were obtained from synoptic station at the Caspian Sea shore and the research marine of Haji Alief. The information concerning shore wind was measured and by the method of SPM (shore protection manual) was transferred to far shore winds through interpolation and by use of inverse square distance of position distribution of the wind velocity at the Caspian surface field was obtained. The model has been evaluated according to the reports and observations. Through studying the position of the current in different layers، the velocity in the cross section in the northern، southern and the middle layers، will be discussed. The results reveal the presence of the circulation cells in the three above mentioned areas. The circulation with depth is reduced too. The results obtained through the numerical solution of the temperature equation have been compared with the observation. The temperature change in different layers in cross section illustrates the relative accordance of the model mentioned.

A Drift Card Study in Monterey Bay, California, September 1971 to April 1973: Annual Report, Part 4, 1973

Drift cards were released in Monterey Bay, California, to detect seasonal variations in the California Current system, and seasonal and diurnal wind variations in the immediate vicinity of the bay. About 23% of the cards were recovered, although the recovery rate varied from about 5% in the winter to about 60% in the late summer. Drift card speeds ranged from 1 to 8 km/day, in the winter and summer months respectively. Good agreement was observed between geostrophic current, wind, drogue, and drift card data, although drift cards were observed to be primarily wind driven. A weekend bias in drift card recoveries was observed for the entire period of study; however, it was less pronounced for those cards released during the summer months. Two bogus releases were used to estimate the discovery lag time, reported position accuracy, and longshore drift currents. Diurnal winds were observed during a 24-hour study, and indicated daily variations in the wind field may be as important as seasonal changes in moving surface water. The drift card speed was observed to be about 3% of the wind velocity, and 1 m/sec was estimated as the minimum effective wind. The wind factor, ranging from 2.2% to 4.0%, was used to estimate the actual paths of drift cards and to examine the role of diurnal winds in affecting surface water movement. (PDF contains 79 pages)

Seasonal Climatologies and Variability of Eastern Tropical Pacific Surface Waters

Interannual variability caused by the El Nino-Southern Oscillation in the eastern tropical Pacific Ocean (ETP) is analogous to seasonal variability of comparable magnitude. Climatological spatial patterns and seasonal variability of physical variables that may affect the ETP ecosystem are presented and discussed. Surface temperature, surface salinity, mixed layer depth, thermocline depth, thermocline strength, and surface dynamic height were derived from bathythermograph, hydrocast, and CTD data. Surface current velocity, divergence, and upwelling velocity were derived from ship drift reports. Surface wind velocity, wind stress, wind divergence, wind stress curl, and Ekman pumping velocity were derived from gridded pseudostress data obtained from Florida State University. Seasonal maps of these variables, and their deviations from the annual mean, show different patterns of variation in Equatorial (S°S-SON) and Tropical Surface Water (SOlS0N). Seasonal shifts in the trade winds, which affect the strength of equatorial upwelling and the North Equatorial Countercurrent, cause seasonal variations in most variables. Seasonal and interannual variability of surface temperature, mixed layer depth, thermocline depth and wind stress were quantified. Surface temperature, mixed layer depth and thermocline depth, but not local wind stress, are less variable in Tropical Surface Water than in Equatorial Surface Water. Seasonal and interannual variability are close to equal in most of the ETP, within factors of 2 or less. (PDF file contains 70 pages.)

Climatic factors associated with phytoplankton community succession during and after the 1977 drought for the San Francisco Bay-Delta Estuary [abstract]

Principal coordinates analysis and multiple regression analysis were used to determine the environmental factors associated with the decline in phytoplankton production during and after the 1977 drought for the San Francisco Bay-Delta Estuary. Physical, chemical and biological data were collected semimonthly or monthly during the spring-summer between 1973 and 1982 from 15 sampling sites located throughout the Bay-Delta. A decline in phytoplankton community diversity and density during the 1977 drought and subsequent years (1978 through 1981) was described using principal coordinates analysis. The best multiple regression which described the changes in phytoplankton community succession contained the variables water temperature, wind velocity and ortho-phosphate concentration. Together these variables accounted for 61 percent of the variation in the phytoplankton community among years described by principal coordinates analysis. An increase in water temperature, wind velocity and ortho-phosphate concentration within the Bay-Delta, beginning in June 1976 and continuing through 1981, was demonstrated using weighted moving averages. From the strong association between phytoplankton community succession and climatic variables it was hypothesized that the decline in phytoplankton production during and after the 1977 drought was associated with climatic changes within the northeast Pacific.

Associations among chlorophyll concentration and climatic variables for Suisun Bay and the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta [abstract]

EXTRACT (SEE PDF FOR FULL ABSTRACT): The recent changes in phytoplankton production and community composition within the Suisun Bay and Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta may be related to climate. Chlorophyll a concentration, decreased by 42% (spring-summer) and 29% (fall) between 1972 through 1976 and 1977 through 1981. The decrease in biomass was characterized by a shift in phytoplankton community dominance from Skeletonema spp., Cyclotella spp. and Coscinodiscus spp. to Melosira granulata. The possible influence of climate on phytoplankton abundance was suggested by multivariate statistical analyses that demonstrated an association between changes in phytoplankton community composition and abundance between 1975 and 1982 and the climate related variables wind velocity, precipitation, river flow and water temperature.

Study and investigation of the various reactions of Mazandaran Province shoreline against wind waves

Determining of beach states and study of manner sediment transmission in beach profile, involves the evaluating the actions of hydrodynamic forces dominated over the beaches, in this research through determining the beach states by the help of Hanson and short method, different reactions of Mazandaran’s shoreline against wind waves was studied and investigated. For this reason, First, the kind of hydrodynamic forces dominated over the beaches of this province was studied and beaches of the this province was distinguished as wave–dominated beaches, afterwards eight stations are chosen throughout the shoreline and the waves qualities and the sediments regarding to different depth was evaluated in these stations by using software and laboratory actions. In this way the parameter of dimensionless fall velocity each station was calculated and the beach states and their changes according to time was studied. Finally, the gained information is located in the software area of Arc GIS, and the waves dynamics and the way of erosion and accretion was evaluated in each station. In this research by study of air photographs during a thirty years period we found that was no remarkable changes at shoreline in western and central parts and each type of change depends upon the delta, while eastern part of coast at the location of breakwaters in neighbouring of Farahabad Station, accretion features is quiet evident. In the main results of this research, it became obvious that the beach state in the stations Neca, Farahabad, Larim, Naftchal, Mazandaran university, Babolsar, Noor is dissipative and the beach in Nashtarood station is in intermediate (ridge and runnel) state to the extend that in the dissipation beaches from east to west, the degree of dissipation of the beaches is decreased continuously.

Net phytoplankton and zooplankton in the New York Bight, January 1976 to February 1978, with comments on the effects of wind, Gulf Stream eddies, and slope water intrusions

Results are given of monthly net phytoplankton and zooplankton sampling from a 10 m depth in shelf, slope, and Gulf Stream eddy water along a transect running southeastward from Ambrose Light, New York, in 1976, 1977, and early 1978. Plankton abundance and temperature at 10 m and sea surface salinity at each station are listed. The effects of atmospheric forcing and Gulf Stream eddies on plankton distribution and abundance arc discussed. The frequency of Gulf Stream eddy passage through the New York Bight corresponded with the frequency of tropical-subtropical net phytoplankton in the samples. Gulf Stream eddies injected tropical-subtropical zooplankton onto the shelf and removed shelfwater and its entrained zooplankton. Wind-induced offshore Ekman transport corresponded generally with the unusual timing of two net phytoplankton maxima. Midsummer net phytoplankton maxima were recorded following the passage of Hurricane Belle (August 1976) and a cold front (July 1977). Tropical-subtropical zooplankton which had been injected onto the outer shelf by Gulf Stream eddies were moved to the inner shelf by a wind-induced current moving up the Hudson Shelf Valley. (PDF file contains 47 pages.)

Influence of the Azores high on sea level pressure and wind, and on precipitation, in the Eastern Tropical Pacific Ocean

ENGLISH: Intensification of the Azores high pressure cell in mid-year, with concomitant air flow from the Caribbean into the Pacific, is shown to be responsible for a secondary minimum of precipitation observed along the tropical Pacific coast of the Americas, and to have a measurable effect on wind and precipitation several hundred kilometers offshore. SPANISH: La intensificación de la célula de alta presión de las Azores a mediados del año, y la corriente de aire concomitante que entra al Pacífico procedente del Caribe, se demuestra que es la causante de un mínimo secundario de precipitación observado a lo largo de la costa tropical de las Américas en el Pacífico y que tiene un efecto mensurable sobre el viento y la precipitación varios cientos de kilómetros mar afuera. (PDF contains 23 pages.)

Current velocity and catch efficiency in sampling settlement-stage larvae of coral-reef fishes

Light traps and channel nets are fixed-position devices that involve active and passive sampling, respectively, in the collection of settlement-stage larvae of coral-reef fishes. We compared the abundance, taxonomic composition, and size of such larvae caught by each device deployed simultaneously near two sites that differed substantially in current velocity. Light traps were more selective taxonomically, and the two sampling devices differed significantly in the abundance but not size of taxa caught. Most importantly, light traps and channel nets differed greatly in their catch efficiency between sites: light traps were ineffective in collecting larvae at the relatively high-current site, and channel nets were less efficient in collecting larvae at the low-current site. Use of only one of these sampling methods would clearly result in biased and inaccurate estimates of the spatial variation in larval abundance among locations that differ in current velocity. When selecting a larval sampling device, one must consider not only how well a particular taxon may be represented, but also the environmental conditions under which the device will be deployed.

Wind climate trends in the Pacific Northwest and the implications to renewable energy supply

EXTRACT (SEE PDF FOR FULL ABSTRACT): This paper examines the influence of wind climate variations on new Pacific Northwest renewable energy sources. Wind represents a potentially valuable supplemental source of energy in the region. ... The recent period of weaker winds may be associated with a stronger North Pacific Low in the last decade. This would result in winter storms more often being deflected farther north, to Canada. Also, in the last dozen years, lower SOI values were common. Other investigators have found low SOI to be associated with drier conditions in the Pacific Northwest.

Interdecadal variability in the spatial structure of wind and SST in the California Current system

The physical environment of eastern boundary current systems is rarely uniform in time. ENSO and other perturbations produce profound anomalies in the atmosphere and ocean on interannual to decadal and century time scales. ... The objective of this paper is to describe the temporal variability in the spatial texture of the California Current system, a major eastern boundary current system off the west coast of North America, to provide a base from which to evaluate the effect of climate change - in the recent past, at present, and for the future.

Application of a wind-driven barotropic model to simulate the seasonal circulation of the northern Arabian Sea

A two dimensional numerical barotropic model based on the depth-integrated equations is presented here. Sensitivity of the model is analyzed by using wind stresses of different months. Real wind data and actual bathymetry are used as an input to obtain the circulation patterns of the northern Arabian Sea during specific seasons. However, the model is also tested with constant depth for comparison. A number of numerical simulations are performed to study the combined effects of wind stress, bathymetry and basin geometry. Since the goal of this study is to simulate the circulation of the northern Arabian sea in accordance with the observed wind stress, therefore, wind stresses of different months like July (the peak os SW monsoon), October (the transition period from SW to NE monsoon), January (the peack of NE monsoon) and April (the transition period from NE to SW monsoon) are used to examine the circulation patterns. The results obtained are satisfactory in that they resemble known patterns.