Wave Sensor Technologies, St Petersburg, Florida, March 7-9, 2007: workshop proceedings

The Alliance for Coastal Technologies (ACT) convened a workshop on "Wave Sensor Technologies" in St. Petersburg, Florida on March 7-9, 2007, hosted by the University of South Florida (USF) College of Marine Science, an ACT partner institution. The primary objectives of this workshop were to: 1) define the present state of wave measurement technologies, 2) identify the major impediments to their advancement, and 3) make strategic recommendations for future development and on the necessary steps to integrate wave measurement sensors into operational coastal ocean observing systems. The participants were from various sectors, including research scientists, technology developers and industry providers, and technology users, such as operational coastal managers and coastal decision makers. Waves consistently are ranked as a critical variable for numerous coastal issues, from maritime transportation to beach erosion to habitat restoration. For the purposes of this workshop, the participants focused on measuring "wind waves" (i.e., waves on the water surface, generated by the wind, restored by gravity and existing between approximately 3 and 30-second periods), although it was recognized that a wide range of both forced and free waves exist on and in the oceans. Also, whereas the workshop put emphasis on the nearshore coastal component of wave measurements, the participants also stressed the importance of open ocean surface waves measurement. Wave sensor technologies that are presently available for both environments include bottom-mounted pressure gauges, surface following buoys, wave staffs, acoustic Doppler current profilers, and shore-based remote sensing radar instruments. One of the recurring themes of workshop discussions was the dichotomous nature of wave data users. The two separate groups, open ocean wave data users and the nearshore/coastal wave data users, have different requirements. Generally, the user requirements increase both in spatial/temporal resolution and precision as one moves closer to shore. Most ocean going mariners are adequately satisfied with measurements of wave period and height and a wave general direction. However, most coastal and nearshore users require at least the first five Fourier parameters ("First 5"): wave energy and the first four directional Fourier coefficients. Furthermore, wave research scientists would like sensors capable of providing measurements beyond the first four Fourier coefficients. It was debated whether or not high precision wave observations in one location can take the place of a less precise measurement at a different location. This could be accomplished by advancing wave models and using wave models to extend data to nearby areas. However, the consensus was that models are no substitution for in situ wave data.[PDF contains 26 pages]

The study of correlation between sea surface temperature (SST) by using the NOAA-AVHRR data and compare this data with temperature measurement in the Caspian Sea

The changes in time and location of surface temperature from a water body has an important effect on climate activities, marine biology, sea currents, salinity and other characteristics of the seas and lakes water. Traditional measurement of temperature is costly and time consumer due to its dispersion and instability. In recent years the use of satellite technology and remote sensing sciences for data acquiring and parameter and lysis of climatology and oceanography is well developed. In this research we used the NOAA’s Satellite images from its AVHRR system to compare the field surface temperature data with the satellite images information. Ten satellite images were used in this project. These images were calibrated with the field data at the exact time of satellite pass above the area. The result was a significant relation between surface temperatures from satellite data with the field work. As the relative error less than %40 between these two data is acceptable, therefore in our observation the maximum error is %21.2 that can be considered it as acceptable. In all stations the result of satellite measurements is usually less than field data that cores ponds with the global result too. As this sea has a vast latitude, therefore the different in the temperature is natural. But we know this factor is not the only cause for surface currents. The information of all satellites were images extracted by ERDAS software, and the “Surfer” software is used to plot the isotherm lines.

Some considerations on coastal processes relevant to sea level rise

The effects of potential sea level rise on the shoreline and shore environment have been briefly examined by considering the interactions between sea level rise and relevant coastal processes. These interactions have been reviewed beginning with a discussion of the need to reanalyze previous estimates of eustatic sea level rise and compaction effects in water level measurement. This is followed by considerations on sea level effects on coastal and estuarine tidal ranges, storm surge and water level response, and interaction with natural and constructed shoreline features. The desirability to reevaluate the well known Bruun Rule for estimating shoreline recession has been noted. The mechanics of ground and surface water intrusion with reference to sea level rise are then reviewed. This is followed by sedimentary processes in the estuaries including wetland response. Finally comments are included on some probable effects of sea level rise on coastal ecosystems. These interactions are complex and lead to shoreline evolution (under a sea level rise) which is highly site-specific. Models which determine shoreline change on the basis of inundation of terrestrial topography without considering relevant coastal processes are likely to lead to erroneous shoreline scenarios, particularly where the shoreline is composed of erodible sedimentary material. With some exceptions, present day knowledge of shoreline response to hydrodynamic forcing is inadequate for long-term quantitative predictions. A series of interrelated basic and applied research issues must be addressed in the coming decades to determine shoreline response to sea level change with an acceptable degree of confidence. (PDF contains 189 pages.)

Thermocline topography, horizontal currents and “ridging” in the Eastern Tropical Pacific

ENGLISH: A primary objective of the Inter-American Tropical Tuna Commission is a knowledge of the ecology of tunas which inhabit the Eastern Tropical Pacific. This paper presents some results of the work in physical oceanography, which, it is hoped, will be useful to the biological work and at the same time of interest to physical oceanographers. The work presented here was begun in connection with simple observable facts; the thermocline is very close to the sea surface in a region off Costa Rica (Wooster and Cromwell, 1958), and this region is biologically productive (Holmes, et al. 1957; Brandhorst, 1958). It is the main object of this study to describe and explain these facts, insofar as possible. SPANISH: Uno de los principales objetivos de la Comisión Interamericana del Atún Tropical es el conocimiento de la ecología de los atunes que viven en el Pacífico Oriental Tropical. Este informe presenta algunos de los resultados del estudio en oceanografía física, los cuales se espera que serán útiles en la investigación biológica y, al mismo tiempo, de interés para los oceanógrafos físicos. El trabajo presentado aquí se inició en conexión con sencillos hechos observables; mar afuera de Costa Rica, la termoclina queda muy cerca de la superficie del mar (Wooster y Cromwell, 1958) y esta región es biológicamente productiva (Holmes, el al., 1957; Brandhorst, 1958). El objeto principal de este estudio es describir y explicar estos hechos, hasta donde sea posible. (PDF contains 32 pages.)