Wind wave prediction in the Caspian Sea

In this thesis, wind wave prediction and analysis in the Southern Caspian Sea are surveyed. Because of very much importance and application of this matter in reducing vital and financial damages or marine activities, such as monitoring marine pollution, designing marine structure, shipping, fishing, offshore industry, tourism and etc, gave attention by some marine activities. In this study are used the Caspian Sea topography data that are extracted from the Caspian Sea Hydrography map of Iran Armed Forces Geographical Organization and the I 0 meter wind field data that are extracted from the transmitted GTS synoptic data of regional centers to Forecasting Center of Iran Meteorological Organization for wave prediction and is used the 20012 wave are recorded by the oil company's buoy that was located at distance 28 Kilometers from Neka shore for wave analysis. The results of this research are as follows: - Because of disagreement between the prediction results of SMB method in the Caspian sea and wave data of the Anzali and Neka buoys. The SMB method isn't able to Predict wave characteristics in the Southern Caspian Sea. - Because of good relativity agreement between the WAM model output in the Caspian Sea and wave data of the Anzali buoy. The WAM model is able to predict wave characteristics in the southern Caspian Sea with high relativity accuracy. The extreme wave height distribution function for fitting to the Southern Caspian Sea wave data is obtained by determining free parameters of Poisson-Gumbel function through moment method. These parameters are as below: A=2.41, B=0.33. The maximum relative error between the estimated 4-year return value of the Southern Caspian Sea significant wave height by above function with the wave data of Neka buoy is about %35. The 100-year return value of the Southern Caspian Sea significant height wave is about 4.97 meter. The maximum relative error between the estimated 4-year return value of the Southern Caspian Sea significant wave height by statistical model of peak over threshold with the wave data of Neka buoy is about %2.28. The parametric relation for fitting to the Southern Caspian Sea frequency spectra is obtained by determining free parameters of the Strekalov, Massel and Krylov etal_ multipeak spectra through mathematical method. These parameters are as below: A = 2.9 B=26.26, C=0.0016 m=0.19 and n=3.69. The maximum relative error between calculated free parameters of the Southern Caspian Sea multipeak spectrum with the proposed free parameters of double-peaked spectrum by Massel and Strekalov on the experimental data from the Caspian Sea is about 36.1 % in spectrum energetic part and is about 74M% in spectrum high frequency part. The peak over threshold waverose of the Southern Caspian Sea shows that maximum occurrence probability of wave height is relevant to waves with 2-2.5 meters wave fhe error sources in the statistical analysis are mainly due to: l) the missing wave data in 2 years duration through battery discharge of Neka buoy. 2) the deportation %15 of significant height annual mean in single year than long period average value that is caused by lack of adequate measurement on oceanic waves, and the error sources in the spectral analysis are mainly due to above- mentioned items and low accurate of the proposed free parameters of double-peaked spectrum on the experimental data from the Caspian Sea.

Ecology and growth of juvenile California spiny lobster, Panulirus interruptus (Randall)

ABSTRACT TRANSCRIBED FROM ENGLE'S PH.D. ORAL DEFENSE PAMPHLET: The natural history of juvenile California spiny lobster, Panulirus interruptus (Randall), was investigated, with primary emphasis placed on ascertaining juvenile habitats, determining juvenile growth rates and component growth processes, and evaluating ecological and behavioral phenomena associated with juvenile survival and growth. Habitat surveys of island and mainland localities throughout southern and lower California revealed that small, greenish juveniles typically inhabit crevices or temporary burrows in 0-4m deep, wave-swept rocky habitats covered by dense beds of surf grass, Phyllospadix torreyi S. Watson. Phyllospadix beds were more abundant on gradually sloping rocky mainland beaches than on steeply sloping island shores. Phyllospadix abundance was positively correlated with P. interruptus abundance; however, at Santa Catalina Island, the Phyllospadix habitat was not extensive enough to be the sole lobster nursery. In laboratory tests, puerulus larvae and early juveniles chose Phyllospadix over rubble rocks or broad-bladed kelp, but did not consistently prefer Phyllospadix over reticulate algae. Ecology, growth, and behavior of juvenile P. interruptus inhabiting a discrete Phyllospadix habitat at Bird Rock, Santa Catalina Island, were investigated from October 1974 through December 1976 by means of frequent scuba surveys. Pueruli settled from June to November. Peak recruitment occurred from July to September, when seasonal temperatures were maximal. Settled larvae were approximately one year old. Juvenile growth was determined by size-frequency, single molt increment, mark-recapture, and laboratory culture studies. Carapace length vs. wet weight relationships fit standard power curve equations. Bird Rock juveniles grew from 7 to 32mm CL in 10-11 molts and from 32 to 56mm CL in 5-6 molts during their first and second benthic years, respectively. Growth rates were similar for males and females. Juveniles regenerating more than two limbs grew less per molt than intact lobsters. Long-term growth of laboratory-reared juveniles was 20% less than that of field lobsters. Growth component multiple regression analyses demonstrated that molt increment was directly proportional to premolt size and temperature for age 1+ lobsters. Molt frequency was inversely proportional to size and directly proportional to temperature. Temperature affected age 2+ lobsters similarly, but molt increment was independent of size, and molt frequency declined at a different rate. Juvenile growth rates more than doubled during warm water months compared to cold water months, primarily because of increased molt frequency. Based on results from this study and from previous investigations, it is estimated that P. interruptus males and females become sexually mature by ages 4 and 5 years, respectively, and that legai size is reached by 7 or 8 years of age. Juvenile P. interruptus activity patterns and foraging behavior were similar to those of adults, except that juvenile home ranges were proportionally smaller, and small juveniles were apparently not attracted to distant food. Small mollusks, abundant in Phyllospadix habitats, were the major food items. Size-dependent predation by fish and octopus apparently caused the considerable juvenile mortality observed at Bird Rock. Juveniles approaching 2 years of age gathered in mixed size-class aggregations by day and foraged beyond the grass beds at night. In autumn, these juveniles migrated to deeper habitats, coincident with new puerulus settlement in the Phyllospadix beds. Based on strong inferences from the results, it is proposed that size-dependent predation is the most important factor determining the !ife history strategy of juvenile P. interruptus. Life history tactics promoting rapid growth apparently function dually in reducing the period of high vulnerability to predation and decreasing the time required to reach sexual maturity. The Phyllospadix habitat is an excellent lobster nursery because it provides shelter from predators and possesses abundant food resources for sustaining optimum juvenile growth rates in shallow, warm water.

Wave forecasts associated with hurricane landfalls in the vicinity of Cape Lookout, North Carolina

Hurricanes can cause extensive damage to the coastline and coastal communities due to wind-generated waves and storm surge. While extensive modeling efforts have been conducted regarding storm surge, there is far less information about the effects of waves on these communities and ecosystems as storms make landfall. This report describes a preliminary use of NCCOS’ WEMo (Wave Exposure Model; Fonseca and Malhotra 2010) to compute the wind wave exposure within an area of approximately 25 miles radius from Beaufort, North Carolina for estuarine waters encompassing Bogue Sound, Back Sound and Core Sound during three hurricane landfall scenarios. The wind wave heights and energy of a site was a computation based on wind speed, direction, fetch and local bathymetry. We used our local area (Beaufort, North Carolina) as a test bed for this product because it is frequently impacted by hurricanes and we had confidence in the bathymetry data. Our test bed conditions were based on two recent Hurricanes that strongly affected this area. First, we used hurricane Isabel which made landfall near Beaufort in September 2003. Two hurricane simulations were run first by passing hurricane Isabel along its actual path (east of Beaufort) and second by passing the same storm to the west of Beaufort to show the potential effect of the reversed wind field. We then simulated impacts by a hurricane (Ophelia) with a different landfall track, which occurred in September of 2005. The simulations produced a geographic description of wave heights revealing the changing wind and wave exposure of the region as a consequence of landfall location and storm intensity. This highly conservative simulation (water levels were that of low tide) revealed that many inhabited and developed shorelines would receive wind waves for prolonged periods of time at heights far above that found during even the top few percent of non-hurricane events. The simulations also provided a sense for how rapidly conditions could transition from moderate to highly threatening; wave heights were shown to far exceed normal conditions often long before the main body of the storm arrived and importantly, at many locations that could impede and endanger late-fleeing vessels seeking safe harbor. When joined with other factors, such as storm surge and event duration, we anticipate that the WEMo forecasting tool will have significant use by local emergency agencies and the public to anticipate the relative exposure of their property arising as a function of storm location and may also be used by resource managers to examine the effects of storms in a quantitative fashion on local living marine resources.