Study and analysis of the waves and currents interaction phenomena

Interaction of ocean waves, currents and sea bed roughness is a complicated phenomena in fluid dynamic. This paper will describe the governing equations of motions of this phenomena in viscous and nonviscous conditions as well as study and analysis the experimental results of sets of physical models on waves, currents and artificial roughness, and consists of three parts: First, by establishing some typical patterns of roughness, the effects of sea bed roughness on a uniform current has been studied, as well as the manning coefficient of each type is reviewed to find the critical situation due to different arrangement. Second, the effect of roughness on wave parameters changes, such as wave height, wave length, and wave dispersion equations have been studied, third, superimposing, the waves + current + roughness patterns established in a flume, equipped with waves + currents generator, in this stage different analysis has been done to find the governing dimensionless numbers, and present the numbers to define the contortions and formulations of this phenomena. First step of the model is verified by the so called Chinese method, and the Second step by the Kamphius (1975), and third step by the van Rijn (1990) , and Brevik and Ass ( 1980), and in all cases reasonable agreements have been obtained. Finally new dimensionless parameters presented for this complicated phenomena.

The effects of permeable bed on waves setup

Generally the flow properties of rivers, estuaries and coastal seas are highly dependent on the bed morphology. These include mainly three flow parameters, as bed shear stress, velocity profile and turbulent fluctuations. Here we investigate the effects of permeate of the bed on these flow properties We consider the effects of suction (W0) injection (W0) on these flow properties particularly the bottom stress. Four types of bottom permeability with different size of sand have been tested. The results indicate a substantial reduction and enhancement of the bed stress under respectively injection and suction as has been observed by others on wave motion in shallow seas. We consider 5 waves to shore with this rang of wave steepness ( 0/015 < so < 0/05 ) . Cr Calculated used of mansard method (1980). We search the stream line of current in bed with a video camera and looking this. Near the surface and the deep of bed and consider V=W (in or su)/ U(ru or rd) and bottom stress for 6 period of this study with Canly and Inman studies (1994). All these results are shown by curves with the effects of permeable bed.

Study and investigation of the various reactions of Mazandaran Province shoreline against wind waves

Determining of beach states and study of manner sediment transmission in beach profile, involves the evaluating the actions of hydrodynamic forces dominated over the beaches, in this research through determining the beach states by the help of Hanson and short method, different reactions of Mazandaran’s shoreline against wind waves was studied and investigated. For this reason, First, the kind of hydrodynamic forces dominated over the beaches of this province was studied and beaches of the this province was distinguished as wave–dominated beaches, afterwards eight stations are chosen throughout the shoreline and the waves qualities and the sediments regarding to different depth was evaluated in these stations by using software and laboratory actions. In this way the parameter of dimensionless fall velocity each station was calculated and the beach states and their changes according to time was studied. Finally, the gained information is located in the software area of Arc GIS, and the waves dynamics and the way of erosion and accretion was evaluated in each station. In this research by study of air photographs during a thirty years period we found that was no remarkable changes at shoreline in western and central parts and each type of change depends upon the delta, while eastern part of coast at the location of breakwaters in neighbouring of Farahabad Station, accretion features is quiet evident. In the main results of this research, it became obvious that the beach state in the stations Neca, Farahabad, Larim, Naftchal, Mazandaran university, Babolsar, Noor is dissipative and the beach in Nashtarood station is in intermediate (ridge and runnel) state to the extend that in the dissipation beaches from east to west, the degree of dissipation of the beaches is decreased continuously.