Beach monitoring project Sand Key Phase II Beach nourishment program (North Redington Beach and Redington Shores) Post-Nourishment Report Part II Offshore Profiles and Wave Data

This study presents the third post-nourishment survey (January 1989) results for the Sand Key Phase II beach nourishment project carried out in June, 1988. The monitoring program to this beach nourishment project is a joint effort between the University of South Florida and University of Florida. The field surveys include a total of 26 profiles, encompassing approximately 3 miles of shoreline extending from DNR R-96 to R-1ll. The total calculated volume loss of sand in the nourished segment (from R-99G to R-107) between the July 88 and January 89 surveys is 51,113 cubic yards, which is a loss about 9.7 percent of 529,150 cubic yards actually placed in the nourishment project. The total loss of sand computed in the entire survey area is 26,796 cubic yards, which is only 5.1 percent of the sand placed in the nourishment project. It is stressed that a part of these net volume reductions is due to the background erosion and not due to spreading losses induced by the nourishment project. (PDF contains 168 pages.)

Potential use of remote sensing to assess effects of wave action on plant re-establishment

Evaluation of the potential for remote sensing to detect a relationship between wave action factors and plant re-establishment after a habitat enhancement at Lake Kissimmee, Florida. Using Geographic Information Systems (GIS) and remote sensing, wave action factors were found to be inversely related to the probability of plant re-establishment. However, correlation of wave action factors with areal coverage of aquatic plants based on field measurements, were unable to detect a significant relationship. Other factors aside from wave action, including littoral slope and the presence of offshore vegetation, may have influenced plant re-establishment in these sites. Remote sensing techniques may be useful to detect large changes in plants communities, however small changes in plant coverages may not be detectable using this technique.

WEMo (Wave Exposure Model): Formulation, Procedures and Validation

This report describes the working of National Centers for Coastal Ocean Service (NCCOS) Wave Exposure Model (WEMo) capable of predicting the exposure of a site in estuarine and closed water to local wind generated waves. WEMo works in two different modes: the Representative Wave Energy (RWE) mode calculates the exposure using physical parameters like wave energy and wave height, while the Relative Exposure Index (REI) empirically calculates exposure as a unitless index. Detailed working of the model in both modes and their procedures are described along with a few sample runs. WEMo model output in RWE mode (wave height and wave energy) is compared against data collected from wave sensors near Harkers Island, North Carolina for validation purposes. Computed results agreed well with the wave sensors data indicating that WEMo can be an effective tool in predicting local wave energy in closed estuarine environments. (PDF contains 31 pages)

M/V WAVE WALKER Coral reef restoration baseline monitoring report – 2004 Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, Monroe County, Florida

This document presents the results of baseline monitoring of a repaired coral reef injured by the M/V Wave Walker vessel grounding incident of January 19, 2001. This grounding occurred in Florida state waters within the boundaries of the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary (FKNMS). The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) and the Board of Trustees of the Internal Improvement Trust Fund of the State of Florida, (“State of Florida” or “state”) are the co-trustees for the natural resources within the FKNMS. This report documents the efficacy of the restoration effort, the condition of the restored reef area two year and four months post-effort, and provides a picture of surrounding reference areas, so as to provide a basis for future comparisons by which to evaluate the long-term success of the restoration. (PDF contains 25 pages.)

Wave Sensor Technologies, St Petersburg, Florida, March 7-9, 2007: workshop proceedings

The Alliance for Coastal Technologies (ACT) convened a workshop on "Wave Sensor Technologies" in St. Petersburg, Florida on March 7-9, 2007, hosted by the University of South Florida (USF) College of Marine Science, an ACT partner institution. The primary objectives of this workshop were to: 1) define the present state of wave measurement technologies, 2) identify the major impediments to their advancement, and 3) make strategic recommendations for future development and on the necessary steps to integrate wave measurement sensors into operational coastal ocean observing systems. The participants were from various sectors, including research scientists, technology developers and industry providers, and technology users, such as operational coastal managers and coastal decision makers. Waves consistently are ranked as a critical variable for numerous coastal issues, from maritime transportation to beach erosion to habitat restoration. For the purposes of this workshop, the participants focused on measuring "wind waves" (i.e., waves on the water surface, generated by the wind, restored by gravity and existing between approximately 3 and 30-second periods), although it was recognized that a wide range of both forced and free waves exist on and in the oceans. Also, whereas the workshop put emphasis on the nearshore coastal component of wave measurements, the participants also stressed the importance of open ocean surface waves measurement. Wave sensor technologies that are presently available for both environments include bottom-mounted pressure gauges, surface following buoys, wave staffs, acoustic Doppler current profilers, and shore-based remote sensing radar instruments. One of the recurring themes of workshop discussions was the dichotomous nature of wave data users. The two separate groups, open ocean wave data users and the nearshore/coastal wave data users, have different requirements. Generally, the user requirements increase both in spatial/temporal resolution and precision as one moves closer to shore. Most ocean going mariners are adequately satisfied with measurements of wave period and height and a wave general direction. However, most coastal and nearshore users require at least the first five Fourier parameters ("First 5"): wave energy and the first four directional Fourier coefficients. Furthermore, wave research scientists would like sensors capable of providing measurements beyond the first four Fourier coefficients. It was debated whether or not high precision wave observations in one location can take the place of a less precise measurement at a different location. This could be accomplished by advancing wave models and using wave models to extend data to nearby areas. However, the consensus was that models are no substitution for in situ wave data.[PDF contains 26 pages]

Wave forecasts associated with hurricane landfalls in the vicinity of Cape Lookout, North Carolina

Hurricanes can cause extensive damage to the coastline and coastal communities due to wind-generated waves and storm surge. While extensive modeling efforts have been conducted regarding storm surge, there is far less information about the effects of waves on these communities and ecosystems as storms make landfall. This report describes a preliminary use of NCCOS’ WEMo (Wave Exposure Model; Fonseca and Malhotra 2010) to compute the wind wave exposure within an area of approximately 25 miles radius from Beaufort, North Carolina for estuarine waters encompassing Bogue Sound, Back Sound and Core Sound during three hurricane landfall scenarios. The wind wave heights and energy of a site was a computation based on wind speed, direction, fetch and local bathymetry. We used our local area (Beaufort, North Carolina) as a test bed for this product because it is frequently impacted by hurricanes and we had confidence in the bathymetry data. Our test bed conditions were based on two recent Hurricanes that strongly affected this area. First, we used hurricane Isabel which made landfall near Beaufort in September 2003. Two hurricane simulations were run first by passing hurricane Isabel along its actual path (east of Beaufort) and second by passing the same storm to the west of Beaufort to show the potential effect of the reversed wind field. We then simulated impacts by a hurricane (Ophelia) with a different landfall track, which occurred in September of 2005. The simulations produced a geographic description of wave heights revealing the changing wind and wave exposure of the region as a consequence of landfall location and storm intensity. This highly conservative simulation (water levels were that of low tide) revealed that many inhabited and developed shorelines would receive wind waves for prolonged periods of time at heights far above that found during even the top few percent of non-hurricane events. The simulations also provided a sense for how rapidly conditions could transition from moderate to highly threatening; wave heights were shown to far exceed normal conditions often long before the main body of the storm arrived and importantly, at many locations that could impede and endanger late-fleeing vessels seeking safe harbor. When joined with other factors, such as storm surge and event duration, we anticipate that the WEMo forecasting tool will have significant use by local emergency agencies and the public to anticipate the relative exposure of their property arising as a function of storm location and may also be used by resource managers to examine the effects of storms in a quantitative fashion on local living marine resources.

Distribution of wave heights in Phitti Creek during southwest monsoon

A waverider buoy was deployed in Phitti Creek (24°33'N; 67°03'E) for wave measurements during April-July 1986. Using Tucker's method wave records were calculated in terms of significant wave height (Hs) and Maximum Wave Height (Hmax). For each parameter weekly mean and standard deviation values were also computed for statistical analysis. For Hs the lowest mean value of 0.8m and for Hmax the lowest mean value of 1.51m were observed in the fourth week of April whereas the highest mean value observed for Hs was 3.02m and for Hmax was 4.94m in the fourth week of June, 1986.

Features of wave field, its effect to erosion - deposition processes in the Cua Dai (Hoi An), Cai river mouth (Nha Trang) and Phan Thiet Bay in typical local wind conditions

Based on the hydrodynamic model and Shore Protection Manual (CERC - USA) we have calculated wave field characteristics in the typical wind conditions (wind velocity equal to 13m/s in the high frequency direction of the wind regime). Comparison between measured and calculated wave parameters was presented and these results were corresponded to each other. The following main wave characteristics were calculated: -Pattern of the refraction wave field. -Average wave height field. -Longshore current velocity field in surf zone. From distribution features of wave field characteristics in research areas, it could be summarized as following: - The formation of wave fields in the research areas was unequal because of their local difference of hydrometeorological conditions, river discharge, bottom relief… - At Cuadai (Dai mouth, Hoian) area in the N direction of incident wave field, wave has caused serious variation of the coastline. The coastline in the whole region, especially, at the south of the mouth was eroded and the foreland in the north of the mouth was deposited. - At Cai river mouth (Nhatrang) area in the E direction of incident wave field, wave has effected strongly and directly to the inshore and channel structure. - At Phanthiet bay area in the SW direction of incident wave field, wave has effected strongly to the whole shoreline from Da point to Ne point and caused serious erosion.

Some behaviours of strongest short-term coastal change induced by cross-shore wave energy flow and corresponding theoretical consideration

There is a number of famous theoretical and experimental works that oriented themselves to solve actual problem of coastal change, including the change of coastline, under versatile influence of oceanic wind waves. In this paper the author would like to give supplementally a few new behaviours of that phenomena observed along the coasts of Vietnam, such as coastal collapse & primitive on-the-spot accumulation, material hurl, etc. Most simple theoretical explanation of them grounding on the Newton's second law has been presented and as results of that there appeared such notion as indicator and criterion which could be used for demarcation of different behaviours in initial stage of general coastal changing processes.

Studies on threshold current densities for convulsion of fish using a square wave stimulator

The threshold current densities and voltage tensions (body voltages) between the head and tail for bringing about distinct reactions in Salmo irideus, Cyprinus Carpio, Tinea tinca, Gasterosteus aculeatus and Salmo fario were studied. In C. carpio and T. tinca, absolute current densities required decreased with increase in length of fish. Threshold current densities for different reactions of fish increased with rise in water temperature and conductivity of surrounding medium except in case of T. tinca where low current densities were sufficient in higher conductivity of water. Impulse D.C. was superior to continuous D.C. Better effect was noticed in fishes in lower current densities when their bodies were parallel to the lines of current conduction.