Wave Sensor Technologies, St Petersburg, Florida, March 7-9, 2007: workshop proceedings

The Alliance for Coastal Technologies (ACT) convened a workshop on "Wave Sensor Technologies" in St. Petersburg, Florida on March 7-9, 2007, hosted by the University of South Florida (USF) College of Marine Science, an ACT partner institution. The primary objectives of this workshop were to: 1) define the present state of wave measurement technologies, 2) identify the major impediments to their advancement, and 3) make strategic recommendations for future development and on the necessary steps to integrate wave measurement sensors into operational coastal ocean observing systems. The participants were from various sectors, including research scientists, technology developers and industry providers, and technology users, such as operational coastal managers and coastal decision makers. Waves consistently are ranked as a critical variable for numerous coastal issues, from maritime transportation to beach erosion to habitat restoration. For the purposes of this workshop, the participants focused on measuring "wind waves" (i.e., waves on the water surface, generated by the wind, restored by gravity and existing between approximately 3 and 30-second periods), although it was recognized that a wide range of both forced and free waves exist on and in the oceans. Also, whereas the workshop put emphasis on the nearshore coastal component of wave measurements, the participants also stressed the importance of open ocean surface waves measurement. Wave sensor technologies that are presently available for both environments include bottom-mounted pressure gauges, surface following buoys, wave staffs, acoustic Doppler current profilers, and shore-based remote sensing radar instruments. One of the recurring themes of workshop discussions was the dichotomous nature of wave data users. The two separate groups, open ocean wave data users and the nearshore/coastal wave data users, have different requirements. Generally, the user requirements increase both in spatial/temporal resolution and precision as one moves closer to shore. Most ocean going mariners are adequately satisfied with measurements of wave period and height and a wave general direction. However, most coastal and nearshore users require at least the first five Fourier parameters ("First 5"): wave energy and the first four directional Fourier coefficients. Furthermore, wave research scientists would like sensors capable of providing measurements beyond the first four Fourier coefficients. It was debated whether or not high precision wave observations in one location can take the place of a less precise measurement at a different location. This could be accomplished by advancing wave models and using wave models to extend data to nearby areas. However, the consensus was that models are no substitution for in situ wave data.[PDF contains 26 pages]

Some effects of Earth's surface on winter jet stream positions in the Northern Hemisphere and rainfall patterns in northern and central California

EXTRACT (SEE PDF FOR FULL ABSTRACT): This report shows that the mean wintertime polar-front jet stream structure consists of three long waves. Prominent ridges in the jet stream flow occur near the longitudes of India, eastern Pacific/west coast of North America, and eastern Atlantic/British Isles; prominent troughs occur near the longitudes of the Middle East, western Pacific, and western Atlantic/east coast of North America. ... One of the climatological ridges occurs along the west coast of North America ... just off the central Oregon coast. The position of the jet stream at this location appears to be the main reason most Pacific storms pass to the north of California. Sustained rainfall in northern and central California occurs only when the storm track is displaced southward of this climatological position.

The effects of permeable bed on waves setup

Generally the flow properties of rivers, estuaries and coastal seas are highly dependent on the bed morphology. These include mainly three flow parameters, as bed shear stress, velocity profile and turbulent fluctuations. Here we investigate the effects of permeate of the bed on these flow properties We consider the effects of suction (W0) injection (W0) on these flow properties particularly the bottom stress. Four types of bottom permeability with different size of sand have been tested. The results indicate a substantial reduction and enhancement of the bed stress under respectively injection and suction as has been observed by others on wave motion in shallow seas. We consider 5 waves to shore with this rang of wave steepness ( 0/015 < so < 0/05 ) . Cr Calculated used of mansard method (1980). We search the stream line of current in bed with a video camera and looking this. Near the surface and the deep of bed and consider V=W (in or su)/ U(ru or rd) and bottom stress for 6 period of this study with Canly and Inman studies (1994). All these results are shown by curves with the effects of permeable bed.