Distribution of wave heights in Phitti Creek during southwest monsoon

A waverider buoy was deployed in Phitti Creek (24°33'N; 67°03'E) for wave measurements during April-July 1986. Using Tucker's method wave records were calculated in terms of significant wave height (Hs) and Maximum Wave Height (Hmax). For each parameter weekly mean and standard deviation values were also computed for statistical analysis. For Hs the lowest mean value of 0.8m and for Hmax the lowest mean value of 1.51m were observed in the fourth week of April whereas the highest mean value observed for Hs was 3.02m and for Hmax was 4.94m in the fourth week of June, 1986.

Wind wave prediction in the Caspian Sea

In this thesis, wind wave prediction and analysis in the Southern Caspian Sea are surveyed. Because of very much importance and application of this matter in reducing vital and financial damages or marine activities, such as monitoring marine pollution, designing marine structure, shipping, fishing, offshore industry, tourism and etc, gave attention by some marine activities. In this study are used the Caspian Sea topography data that are extracted from the Caspian Sea Hydrography map of Iran Armed Forces Geographical Organization and the I 0 meter wind field data that are extracted from the transmitted GTS synoptic data of regional centers to Forecasting Center of Iran Meteorological Organization for wave prediction and is used the 20012 wave are recorded by the oil company's buoy that was located at distance 28 Kilometers from Neka shore for wave analysis. The results of this research are as follows: - Because of disagreement between the prediction results of SMB method in the Caspian sea and wave data of the Anzali and Neka buoys. The SMB method isn't able to Predict wave characteristics in the Southern Caspian Sea. - Because of good relativity agreement between the WAM model output in the Caspian Sea and wave data of the Anzali buoy. The WAM model is able to predict wave characteristics in the southern Caspian Sea with high relativity accuracy. The extreme wave height distribution function for fitting to the Southern Caspian Sea wave data is obtained by determining free parameters of Poisson-Gumbel function through moment method. These parameters are as below: A=2.41, B=0.33. The maximum relative error between the estimated 4-year return value of the Southern Caspian Sea significant wave height by above function with the wave data of Neka buoy is about %35. The 100-year return value of the Southern Caspian Sea significant height wave is about 4.97 meter. The maximum relative error between the estimated 4-year return value of the Southern Caspian Sea significant wave height by statistical model of peak over threshold with the wave data of Neka buoy is about %2.28. The parametric relation for fitting to the Southern Caspian Sea frequency spectra is obtained by determining free parameters of the Strekalov, Massel and Krylov etal_ multipeak spectra through mathematical method. These parameters are as below: A = 2.9 B=26.26, C=0.0016 m=0.19 and n=3.69. The maximum relative error between calculated free parameters of the Southern Caspian Sea multipeak spectrum with the proposed free parameters of double-peaked spectrum by Massel and Strekalov on the experimental data from the Caspian Sea is about 36.1 % in spectrum energetic part and is about 74M% in spectrum high frequency part. The peak over threshold waverose of the Southern Caspian Sea shows that maximum occurrence probability of wave height is relevant to waves with 2-2.5 meters wave fhe error sources in the statistical analysis are mainly due to: l) the missing wave data in 2 years duration through battery discharge of Neka buoy. 2) the deportation %15 of significant height annual mean in single year than long period average value that is caused by lack of adequate measurement on oceanic waves, and the error sources in the spectral analysis are mainly due to above- mentioned items and low accurate of the proposed free parameters of double-peaked spectrum on the experimental data from the Caspian Sea.

WEMo (Wave Exposure Model): Formulation, Procedures and Validation

This report describes the working of National Centers for Coastal Ocean Service (NCCOS) Wave Exposure Model (WEMo) capable of predicting the exposure of a site in estuarine and closed water to local wind generated waves. WEMo works in two different modes: the Representative Wave Energy (RWE) mode calculates the exposure using physical parameters like wave energy and wave height, while the Relative Exposure Index (REI) empirically calculates exposure as a unitless index. Detailed working of the model in both modes and their procedures are described along with a few sample runs. WEMo model output in RWE mode (wave height and wave energy) is compared against data collected from wave sensors near Harkers Island, North Carolina for validation purposes. Computed results agreed well with the wave sensors data indicating that WEMo can be an effective tool in predicting local wave energy in closed estuarine environments. (PDF contains 31 pages)

Features of wave field, its effect to erosion - deposition processes in the Cua Dai (Hoi An), Cai river mouth (Nha Trang) and Phan Thiet Bay in typical local wind conditions

Based on the hydrodynamic model and Shore Protection Manual (CERC - USA) we have calculated wave field characteristics in the typical wind conditions (wind velocity equal to 13m/s in the high frequency direction of the wind regime). Comparison between measured and calculated wave parameters was presented and these results were corresponded to each other. The following main wave characteristics were calculated: -Pattern of the refraction wave field. -Average wave height field. -Longshore current velocity field in surf zone. From distribution features of wave field characteristics in research areas, it could be summarized as following: - The formation of wave fields in the research areas was unequal because of their local difference of hydrometeorological conditions, river discharge, bottom relief… - At Cuadai (Dai mouth, Hoian) area in the N direction of incident wave field, wave has caused serious variation of the coastline. The coastline in the whole region, especially, at the south of the mouth was eroded and the foreland in the north of the mouth was deposited. - At Cai river mouth (Nhatrang) area in the E direction of incident wave field, wave has effected strongly and directly to the inshore and channel structure. - At Phanthiet bay area in the SW direction of incident wave field, wave has effected strongly to the whole shoreline from Da point to Ne point and caused serious erosion.

Coastal engineering investigation at Jupiter Inlet, Florida

A fixed-bed hydraulic model of Jupiter Inlet, Florida, was constructed for the purpose of testing measures designed to remedy problems of sediment erosion and deposition in the inlet area. Both tide-induced flows as well as waves were simulated in the model which was built on an undistorted scale of 1:49. Model verification was based on prototype measurements of waves, tides and currents. Results have been interpreted in terms of the influence of various proposed remedial schemes on flow velocity magnitude, distribution and wave height at various locations within the study area. A stability parameter has been utilized for evaluating the degree of sediment erosion or deposition at a given location. Various structural solutions were examined in the model. It is proposed that, in the initial phase of solution implementation, sediment removal/nourishment methods be used primarily to mitigate the existing problems. New structures, as per model test results, should be installed under subsequent phases, only if sediment management procedures do not prove to be adequate. The currently followed procedure of periodic sand trap dredging may be extended to include the new dredging/nourishment requirements. (PDF contains 245 pages.)

A comparison between circle hook and J hook performance in the dolphinfish, yellowfish tuna, and wahoo troll fishery off the coast of North Carolina

We compared numbers of strikes, proportions of fish that hooked up after strikes, proportions of fish that stayed on hook (retained) after hook up, and numbers of fish caught between circle and J hooks rigged with dead natural fish bait (ballyhoo)and trolled for three oceanic predator species: dolphinfish (Coryphaena hippurus), yellowfin tuna (Thunnus albacares), and wahoo (Acanthocybium solandri). Interactions were compared between circle and J hooks fished on 75 trips by two user groups (charter and recreational fishermen). Hooks were affixed to three species-specific leader types most commonly fished in this region: monofilament (dolphinfish), fluorocarbon (tuna), and wire (wahoo). Numbers of fish caught per trip and three potential mechanisms that might inf luence numbers caught (i.e., number of strikes, proportion of fish hooked, and proportion retained) were modeled with generalized linear models that considered hook type, leader type, species, user (fishing) group, and wave height as main effects. Hook type was a main effect at the catch level; generally, more fish were caught on J hooks than on circle hooks. The effect of hook type on strike rates was equivocal. However, J hooks had a greater proportion of hook-ups than did circle hooks. Finally, the proportion of fish retained once hooked was generally equal between hook types. We found similar results when data from additional species were pooled as a “tuna” group and a “mackerel” group. We conclude that J hooks are more effective than circle hooks at the hook-up level and result in greater numbers of troll-caught dolphinfish, tunas

The study of the sea state data collected from Bay of Bengal during 1964-65

The wave data collected on board Ins Kistna from Bay of Bengal during July to August, 1964 and January, February and April, 1965 are presented. The wave parameters are analyzed and given in a form most suitable for model testing of ships. The variation of wave height with Beaufort number is remarkable. Wave periods from 2 to 10 seconds are observed with maximum frequency in the range of 2 to 5 seconds. The heights and period obtained are compared with those obtained by previous workers for the North Atlantic region and Bay of Bengal. The influence of the wave period 2 to 5 seconds on the rolling, pitching and heaving periods of medium size vessels is also discussed.

Study and analysis of the waves and currents interaction phenomena

Interaction of ocean waves, currents and sea bed roughness is a complicated phenomena in fluid dynamic. This paper will describe the governing equations of motions of this phenomena in viscous and nonviscous conditions as well as study and analysis the experimental results of sets of physical models on waves, currents and artificial roughness, and consists of three parts: First, by establishing some typical patterns of roughness, the effects of sea bed roughness on a uniform current has been studied, as well as the manning coefficient of each type is reviewed to find the critical situation due to different arrangement. Second, the effect of roughness on wave parameters changes, such as wave height, wave length, and wave dispersion equations have been studied, third, superimposing, the waves + current + roughness patterns established in a flume, equipped with waves + currents generator, in this stage different analysis has been done to find the governing dimensionless numbers, and present the numbers to define the contortions and formulations of this phenomena. First step of the model is verified by the so called Chinese method, and the Second step by the Kamphius (1975), and third step by the van Rijn (1990) , and Brevik and Ass ( 1980), and in all cases reasonable agreements have been obtained. Finally new dimensionless parameters presented for this complicated phenomena.

Physical modeling of processes of sediment transport in inlets

During the transformation of the low tide to the high tide, an exactly inverse phenomenon is occurred and the high tidal delta is formed at the mouth upstream. Increasing the tidal range does not affect the nature of this phenomenon and just change its intensity. In this situation, the inlet will be balance over time. A new relationship between equilibrium cross section and tidal prism for different tidal levels as well as sediment grading has been provided which its results are corresponded with results of numerical modeling. In the combination state, the wave height significantly affects the current and sedimentary pattern such that the wave height dimensionless index (Hw/Ht) determines the dominant parameter (the short period wave or tide) in the inlet. It is notable that in this state, the inlet will be balanced over the time. In order to calculate sedimentary phenomena, each of which are individually determined under solely wave and only tide conditions and then they are added. Estimated values are similar to numerical modeling results of the combination state considering nonlinear terms. Also, it is clear that the wave and tide performance is of meaning in the direct relationship with the water level. The water level change causes variations of the position of the breaking line and sedimentary active area. It changes the current and sedimentary pattern coastward while does not change anything seaward. Based on modeling results of sediment transport due to the wave, tide and their combination, it could be said that the erosion at the mouth due to the wave is less than that due to the wave and tide combination. In these situations, tide and wave-tide combination increase the low tidal and high tidal delta volume, respectively. Hence, tide plays an effective role in changing sedimentary phenomena at the channel and mouth downstream. Whereas, short period and combined waves have a crucial role in varying the morphology and sediment transport coast ward.

Potential use of remote sensing to assess effects of wave action on plant re-establishment

Evaluation of the potential for remote sensing to detect a relationship between wave action factors and plant re-establishment after a habitat enhancement at Lake Kissimmee, Florida. Using Geographic Information Systems (GIS) and remote sensing, wave action factors were found to be inversely related to the probability of plant re-establishment. However, correlation of wave action factors with areal coverage of aquatic plants based on field measurements, were unable to detect a significant relationship. Other factors aside from wave action, including littoral slope and the presence of offshore vegetation, may have influenced plant re-establishment in these sites. Remote sensing techniques may be useful to detect large changes in plants communities, however small changes in plant coverages may not be detectable using this technique.

Wave Sensor Technologies, St Petersburg, Florida, March 7-9, 2007: workshop proceedings

The Alliance for Coastal Technologies (ACT) convened a workshop on "Wave Sensor Technologies" in St. Petersburg, Florida on March 7-9, 2007, hosted by the University of South Florida (USF) College of Marine Science, an ACT partner institution. The primary objectives of this workshop were to: 1) define the present state of wave measurement technologies, 2) identify the major impediments to their advancement, and 3) make strategic recommendations for future development and on the necessary steps to integrate wave measurement sensors into operational coastal ocean observing systems. The participants were from various sectors, including research scientists, technology developers and industry providers, and technology users, such as operational coastal managers and coastal decision makers. Waves consistently are ranked as a critical variable for numerous coastal issues, from maritime transportation to beach erosion to habitat restoration. For the purposes of this workshop, the participants focused on measuring "wind waves" (i.e., waves on the water surface, generated by the wind, restored by gravity and existing between approximately 3 and 30-second periods), although it was recognized that a wide range of both forced and free waves exist on and in the oceans. Also, whereas the workshop put emphasis on the nearshore coastal component of wave measurements, the participants also stressed the importance of open ocean surface waves measurement. Wave sensor technologies that are presently available for both environments include bottom-mounted pressure gauges, surface following buoys, wave staffs, acoustic Doppler current profilers, and shore-based remote sensing radar instruments. One of the recurring themes of workshop discussions was the dichotomous nature of wave data users. The two separate groups, open ocean wave data users and the nearshore/coastal wave data users, have different requirements. Generally, the user requirements increase both in spatial/temporal resolution and precision as one moves closer to shore. Most ocean going mariners are adequately satisfied with measurements of wave period and height and a wave general direction. However, most coastal and nearshore users require at least the first five Fourier parameters ("First 5"): wave energy and the first four directional Fourier coefficients. Furthermore, wave research scientists would like sensors capable of providing measurements beyond the first four Fourier coefficients. It was debated whether or not high precision wave observations in one location can take the place of a less precise measurement at a different location. This could be accomplished by advancing wave models and using wave models to extend data to nearby areas. However, the consensus was that models are no substitution for in situ wave data.[PDF contains 26 pages]

Topic 1. Some steric-height features of the water off the Pacific coast of Canada; Topic 2. Possible warming of the water at station P in the northeast Pacific during 1956-1984 [abstract]

TOPIC 1: In terms of seasonal scale, temperature effect dominates the annual change of steric height in the open ocean whereas salinity effect controls it along the continental shelf. Large portion of the annual change of height relative to the 1000-db surface is contained in the upper 100m layer. However, in interannual scale large anomalies of steric height in the open ocean, are more often than not, caused by halosteric rather than thermosteric effect. At least in the open ocean the heights are almost totally determined by the behavior of deep water. Their interannual variability appears to be related to the cumulative effect of Eckman pumping. TOPIC 2: There is a "trend" that over the past 28 years the water at Station P has warmed. Least-square analysis indicates that this warming may be significant but shortening of the time-series data by approximately 10 years fails to show that this is the case. These "trends" have to be interpreted with care. The warming may be "apparent" in that it is not indicated clearly in the deep isopynal surfaces which, during the above period, have deepened. Thus warming at the isobaric surfaces may be the effect of the downward migration of the isopynal surfaces.

Boat wakes and their influence on erosion in the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway, North Carolina

Boat wakes in the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway (AIWW) of North Carolina occur in environments not normally subjected to (wind) wave events, making sections of AIWW potentially vulnerable to extreme wave events generated by boat wakes. The Snow’s Cut area that links the Cape Fear River to the AIWW is an area identified by the Wilmington District of the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers as having significant erosion issues; it was hypothesized that this erosion could be being exacerbated by boat wakes. We compared the boat wakes for six combinations of boat length and speed with the top 5% wind events. We also computed the benthic shear stress associated with boat wakes and whether sediment would move (erode) under those conditions. Finally, we compared the transit time across Snow’s Cut for each speed. We focused on two size classes of V-hulled boats (7 and 16m) representative of AIWW traffic and on three boat speeds (3, 10 and 20 knots). We found that at 10 knots when the boat was plowing and not yet on plane, boat wake height and potential erosion was greatest. Wakes and forecast erosion were slightly mitigated at higher, planing speeds. Vessel speeds greater than 7 knots were forecast to generate wakes and sediment movement zones greatly exceeding that arising from natural wind events. We posit that vessels larger than 7m in length transiting Snow’s Cut (and likely many other fetch-restricted areas of the AIWW) frequently generate wakes of heights that result in sediment movement over large extents of the AIWW nearshore area, substantially in exceedance of natural wind wave events. If the speed, particularly of large V-hulled vessels (here represented by the 16m length class), were reduced to pre-plowing levels (~ 7 knots down from 20), transit times for Snow’s Cut would be increased approximately 10 minutes but based on our simulations would likely substantially reduce the creation of erosion-generating boat wakes. It is likely that boat wakes significantly exceed wind wave background for much of the AIWW and similar analyses may be useful in identifying management options.

Wave forecasts associated with hurricane landfalls in the vicinity of Cape Lookout, North Carolina

Hurricanes can cause extensive damage to the coastline and coastal communities due to wind-generated waves and storm surge. While extensive modeling efforts have been conducted regarding storm surge, there is far less information about the effects of waves on these communities and ecosystems as storms make landfall. This report describes a preliminary use of NCCOS’ WEMo (Wave Exposure Model; Fonseca and Malhotra 2010) to compute the wind wave exposure within an area of approximately 25 miles radius from Beaufort, North Carolina for estuarine waters encompassing Bogue Sound, Back Sound and Core Sound during three hurricane landfall scenarios. The wind wave heights and energy of a site was a computation based on wind speed, direction, fetch and local bathymetry. We used our local area (Beaufort, North Carolina) as a test bed for this product because it is frequently impacted by hurricanes and we had confidence in the bathymetry data. Our test bed conditions were based on two recent Hurricanes that strongly affected this area. First, we used hurricane Isabel which made landfall near Beaufort in September 2003. Two hurricane simulations were run first by passing hurricane Isabel along its actual path (east of Beaufort) and second by passing the same storm to the west of Beaufort to show the potential effect of the reversed wind field. We then simulated impacts by a hurricane (Ophelia) with a different landfall track, which occurred in September of 2005. The simulations produced a geographic description of wave heights revealing the changing wind and wave exposure of the region as a consequence of landfall location and storm intensity. This highly conservative simulation (water levels were that of low tide) revealed that many inhabited and developed shorelines would receive wind waves for prolonged periods of time at heights far above that found during even the top few percent of non-hurricane events. The simulations also provided a sense for how rapidly conditions could transition from moderate to highly threatening; wave heights were shown to far exceed normal conditions often long before the main body of the storm arrived and importantly, at many locations that could impede and endanger late-fleeing vessels seeking safe harbor. When joined with other factors, such as storm surge and event duration, we anticipate that the WEMo forecasting tool will have significant use by local emergency agencies and the public to anticipate the relative exposure of their property arising as a function of storm location and may also be used by resource managers to examine the effects of storms in a quantitative fashion on local living marine resources.

Design and construction of a two dimensional duct equipped with a wave generator and a variable coastal slope and an ocean wave energy conversion system (OWC)

The aims of this thesis were evaluation the type of wave channel, wave current, and effect of some parameters on them and identification and comparison between types of wave maker in laboratory situations. In this study, designing and making of two dimension channels (flume) and wave maker for experiment son the marine buoy, marine building and energy conversion systems were also investigated. In current research, the physical relation between pump and pumpage and the designing of current making in flume were evaluated. The related calculation for steel building, channels beside glasses and also equations of wave maker plate movement, power of motor and absorb wave(co astal slope) were calculated. In continue of this study, the servo motor was designed and applied for moving of wave maker’s plate. One Ball Screw Leaner was used for having better movement mechanisms of equipment and convert of the around movement to linear movement. The Programmable Logic Controller (PLC) was also used for control of wave maker system. The studies were explained type of ocean energies and energy conversion systems. In another part of this research, the systems of energy resistance in special way of Oscillating Water Column (OWC) were explained and one sample model was designed and applied in hydrolic channel at the Sheikh Bahaii building in Azad University, Science and Research Branch. The dimensions of designed flume was considered at 16 1.98 0. 57 m which had ability to provide regular waves as well as irregular waves with little changing on the control system. The ability of making waves was evaluated in our designed channel and the results were showed that all of the calculation in designed flume was correct. The mean of error between our results and theory calculation was conducted 7%, which was showed the well result in this situation. With evaluating of designed OWC model and considering of changes in the some part of system, one bigger sample of this model can be used for designing the energy conversion system model. The obtained results showed that the best form for chamber in exit position of system, were zero degree (0) in angle for moving below part, forty and five (45) degree in front wall of system and the moving forward of front wall keep in two times of height of wave.