Sediment budget: principals and applications

The framework of sediment budget concepts provides a formalized procedure to account for the various components of sediment flux and the changes of volume that occur within a given region. Sediment budget methodology can be useful in a number of coastal engineering and research applications, including: inferring the amount of onshore sediment transport for a nearshore system that contains an "excess of sediment", determining sediment deficits to downdrift beaches as a result of engineering works at navigational entrances, evaluating the performance of a beach nourishment project, inferring the distribution of longshore sediment transport across the surf zone, etc. This chapter reviews briefly the governing equations for sediment budget calculations, considers various measurement and other bases for determining the sediment flux components necessary to apply the sediment budget concept and finally for illustration purposes, applies the sediment budget concept to several examples. (PDF contains 52 pages.)

Comments on hydrographic and topographic LIDAR acquisition and merging with multibeam sounding data acquired in the Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary

In April 2005, a SHOALS 1000T LIDAR system was used as an efficient alternative for safely acquiring data to describe the existing conditions of nearshore bathymetry and the intertidal zone over an approximately 40.7 km2 (11.8 nm2) portion of hazardous coastline within the Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary (OCNMS). Data were logged from 1,593 km (860 nm) of track lines in just over 21 hours of flight time. Several islands and offshore rocks were also surveyed, and over 24,000 geo-referenced digital still photos were captured to assist with data cleaning and QA/QC. The 1 kHz bathymetry laser obtained a maximum water depth of 22.2 meters. Floating kelp beds, breaking surf lines and turbid water were all challenges to the survey. Although sea state was favorable for this time of the year, recent heavy rainfall and a persistent low-lying layer of fog reduced acquisition productivity. The existence of a completed VDatum model covering this same geographic region permitted the LIDAR data to be vertically transformed and merged with existing shallow water multibeam data and referenced to the mean lower low water (MLLW) tidal datum. Analysis of a multibeam bathymetry-LIDAR difference surface containing over 44,000 samples indicated surface deviations from –24.3 to 8.48 meters, with a mean difference of –0.967 meters, and standard deviation of 1.762 meters. Errors in data cleaning and false detections due to interference from surf, kelp, and turbidity likely account for the larger surface separations, while the remaining general surface difference trend could partially be attributed to a more dense data set, and shoal-biased cleaning, binning and gridding associated with the multibeam data for maintaining conservative least depths important for charting dangers to navigation. (PDF contains 27 pages.)

Age determination methods for northwest Atlantic species

The successful application of techniques to enhance detection of age marks in biological specimens is of vital importance in fisheries research. This manual documents age determination techniques used by staff at the Woods Hole Laboratory, National Marine Fisheries Service. General information on procedures for preparing anatomical structures is described, together with criteria used to interpret growth patterns and assign ages. Annotated photographs of age structures are provided to illustrate criteria. Detailed procedures are given for the following species: Atlantic herring (Clupea harengus), haddock (Melanogrammus aeglefinus), Atlantic cod (Gadus morhua), pollock (Pollachius virens), silver hake (Merluccius bilinearis), red hake (Urophycis chuss), black sea bass (Centropristis striata), weakfish (Cynoscion regalis), Atlantic mackerel (Scomber scombrus), butterfish (Peprilus triacanthus), redfish (Sebastes fasciatus), summer flounder (Paralichthys dentatus), winter flounder (Pseudopleuronectes americanus), witch flounder (Glyptocephalus cynoglossus), American plaice (Hippoglossoides platessoides), yellowtail flounder (Limanda ferruginea), surf clam (Spisula solidissima), and ocean quahog (Arctica islandica). (PDF file contains 142 pages.)

Food habits and dietary variability of pelagic nekton off Oregon and Washington, 1979-1984

The food habits of 20 species of pelagic nekton were investigated from collections made with small-mesh purse seines from 1979-84 off Washington and Oregon. Four species (spiny dogfish, Squalus acanthias; soupfin shark, Galeorhinus zyopterus; blue shark, Prionace glauca; and cutthroat trout, Salmo clarki) were mainly piscivorous. Six species (coho salmon, Oncorhynchus kisutch; chinook salmon, O. tshawytscha; black rockfish, Sebastes melanops; yellowtail rockfish, S. f1avidus; sablefish, Anoplopoma fimbria; and jack mackerel, Trachurus symmetricus) consumed both nektonic and planktonic organisms. The remaining species (market squid, Loligo opalescens; American shad, Alosa sapidissima; Pacific herring, Clupea harengus pallasi; northern anchovy, Engraulis mordax; pink salmon, O. gorbuscha; surf smelt, Hypomesus pretiosus; Pacific hake, Merluccius productus; Pacific saury, Cololabis saira; Pacific mackerel, Scomber japonicus; and medusafish, Icichthys lockingtom) were primarily planktonic feeders. There were substantial interannual, seasonal, and geographic variations in the diets of several species due primarily to changes in prey availability. Juvenile salmonids were not commonly consumed by this assemblage of fishes (PDF file contains 36 pages.)

Technological status and development prospects of small-scale fishing crafts in Nigerian coastal water

A study of fishing crafts was conducted in some coastal states of Nigeria to elucidate findings on the existing crafts as the baseline for further developments. Based on the technical designs, three types of fishing crafts were identified; planked, dug-out and half dug-out canoes. The planked canoes have the largest cubic number and dug-out canoes the least. At loadwater line, the ratio of freeboard to draft was 2 : 1 for planked canoes, indicating reserved buoyancy. Trim of planked canoe is by stern; the beam-length ratio for dug-out canoes showed high drag. Most of the sea-going canoes have U-shaped bottom hull profile capable of withstanding the rigours of surf landing and displayed good stability against longitudinal water wave. Gunwale and thwarts provided respectively the longitudinal and transverse strength of planked and half dug-out canoes. With its characteristics 'weight low down' construction, planked canoe represent the climax of small scale fishing crafts developments in Nigerian coastal waters. It's only draw back is durability. Further improvement in this canoe should be aimed at increasing the hull size and stiffness, water tightness of deck by coating, caulking, fastening, increasing level of motorization and installation of deck working equipments. Experimental design and use of fibre glass, aluminium and ferrocement hulls, together with improved planked canoe is highly advocated

Ecology and growth of juvenile California spiny lobster, Panulirus interruptus (Randall)

ABSTRACT TRANSCRIBED FROM ENGLE'S PH.D. ORAL DEFENSE PAMPHLET: The natural history of juvenile California spiny lobster, Panulirus interruptus (Randall), was investigated, with primary emphasis placed on ascertaining juvenile habitats, determining juvenile growth rates and component growth processes, and evaluating ecological and behavioral phenomena associated with juvenile survival and growth. Habitat surveys of island and mainland localities throughout southern and lower California revealed that small, greenish juveniles typically inhabit crevices or temporary burrows in 0-4m deep, wave-swept rocky habitats covered by dense beds of surf grass, Phyllospadix torreyi S. Watson. Phyllospadix beds were more abundant on gradually sloping rocky mainland beaches than on steeply sloping island shores. Phyllospadix abundance was positively correlated with P. interruptus abundance; however, at Santa Catalina Island, the Phyllospadix habitat was not extensive enough to be the sole lobster nursery. In laboratory tests, puerulus larvae and early juveniles chose Phyllospadix over rubble rocks or broad-bladed kelp, but did not consistently prefer Phyllospadix over reticulate algae. Ecology, growth, and behavior of juvenile P. interruptus inhabiting a discrete Phyllospadix habitat at Bird Rock, Santa Catalina Island, were investigated from October 1974 through December 1976 by means of frequent scuba surveys. Pueruli settled from June to November. Peak recruitment occurred from July to September, when seasonal temperatures were maximal. Settled larvae were approximately one year old. Juvenile growth was determined by size-frequency, single molt increment, mark-recapture, and laboratory culture studies. Carapace length vs. wet weight relationships fit standard power curve equations. Bird Rock juveniles grew from 7 to 32mm CL in 10-11 molts and from 32 to 56mm CL in 5-6 molts during their first and second benthic years, respectively. Growth rates were similar for males and females. Juveniles regenerating more than two limbs grew less per molt than intact lobsters. Long-term growth of laboratory-reared juveniles was 20% less than that of field lobsters. Growth component multiple regression analyses demonstrated that molt increment was directly proportional to premolt size and temperature for age 1+ lobsters. Molt frequency was inversely proportional to size and directly proportional to temperature. Temperature affected age 2+ lobsters similarly, but molt increment was independent of size, and molt frequency declined at a different rate. Juvenile growth rates more than doubled during warm water months compared to cold water months, primarily because of increased molt frequency. Based on results from this study and from previous investigations, it is estimated that P. interruptus males and females become sexually mature by ages 4 and 5 years, respectively, and that legai size is reached by 7 or 8 years of age. Juvenile P. interruptus activity patterns and foraging behavior were similar to those of adults, except that juvenile home ranges were proportionally smaller, and small juveniles were apparently not attracted to distant food. Small mollusks, abundant in Phyllospadix habitats, were the major food items. Size-dependent predation by fish and octopus apparently caused the considerable juvenile mortality observed at Bird Rock. Juveniles approaching 2 years of age gathered in mixed size-class aggregations by day and foraged beyond the grass beds at night. In autumn, these juveniles migrated to deeper habitats, coincident with new puerulus settlement in the Phyllospadix beds. Based on strong inferences from the results, it is proposed that size-dependent predation is the most important factor determining the !ife history strategy of juvenile P. interruptus. Life history tactics promoting rapid growth apparently function dually in reducing the period of high vulnerability to predation and decreasing the time required to reach sexual maturity. The Phyllospadix habitat is an excellent lobster nursery because it provides shelter from predators and possesses abundant food resources for sustaining optimum juvenile growth rates in shallow, warm water.

Juvenile salmonid distribution, growth, condition, origin, and environmental and species associations in the Northern California Current

Information is summarized on juvenile salmonid distribution, size, condition, growth, stock origin, and species and environmental associations from June and August 2000 GLOBEC cruises with particular emphasis on differences related to the regions north and south of Cape Blanco off Southern Oregon. Juvenile salmon were more abundant during the August cruise as compared to the June cruise and were mainly distributed northward from Cape Blanco. There were distinct differences in distribution patterns between salmon species: chinook salmon were found close inshore in cooler water all along the coast and coho salmon were rarely found south of Cape Blanco. Distance offshore and temperature were the dominant explanatory variables related to coho and chinook salmon distribution. The nekton assemblages differed significantly between cruises. The June cruise was dominated by juvenile rockfishes, rex sole, and sablefish, which were almost completely absent in August. The forage fish community during June comprised Pacific herring and whitebait smelt north of Cape Blanco and surf smelt south of Cape Blanco. The fish community in August was dominated by Pacific sardines and highly migratory pelagic species. Estimated growth rates of juvenile coho salmon were higher in the GLOBEC study area than in areas farther north. An unusually high percentage of coho salmon in the study area were precocious males. Significant differences in growth and condition of juvenile coho salmon indicated different oceanographic environments north and south of Cape Blanco. The condition index was higher in juvenile coho salmon to the north but no significant differences were found for yearling chinook salmon. Genetic mixed stock analysis indicated that during June, most of the Chinook salmon in our sample originated from rivers along the central coast of Oregon. In August, chinook salmon sampled south of Cape Blanco were largely from southern Oregon and northern California; whereas most chinook salmon north of Cape Blanco were from the Central Valley in California.

Features of wave field, its effect to erosion - deposition processes in the Cua Dai (Hoi An), Cai river mouth (Nha Trang) and Phan Thiet Bay in typical local wind conditions

Based on the hydrodynamic model and Shore Protection Manual (CERC - USA) we have calculated wave field characteristics in the typical wind conditions (wind velocity equal to 13m/s in the high frequency direction of the wind regime). Comparison between measured and calculated wave parameters was presented and these results were corresponded to each other. The following main wave characteristics were calculated: -Pattern of the refraction wave field. -Average wave height field. -Longshore current velocity field in surf zone. From distribution features of wave field characteristics in research areas, it could be summarized as following: - The formation of wave fields in the research areas was unequal because of their local difference of hydrometeorological conditions, river discharge, bottom relief… - At Cuadai (Dai mouth, Hoian) area in the N direction of incident wave field, wave has caused serious variation of the coastline. The coastline in the whole region, especially, at the south of the mouth was eroded and the foreland in the north of the mouth was deposited. - At Cai river mouth (Nhatrang) area in the E direction of incident wave field, wave has effected strongly and directly to the inshore and channel structure. - At Phanthiet bay area in the SW direction of incident wave field, wave has effected strongly to the whole shoreline from Da point to Ne point and caused serious erosion.

Torpedo sinuspersici Olfers, 1831

Electric rays, thought to be the most primitive of the skates and rays, have stout tails but have rather expansive disc. This group is distinguished by the presence of powerful electric organs, derived from branchial muscles in head region. Torpedo sinuspersici found inshore in sandy bottoms, and well offshore from the surf zone down to 200 m. Also on or near coral reefs (like Kish Island in Persian Gulf). Common in shallow sandy areas. Occasionally hooked by anglers, more often seen by divers; can deliver a strong shock. Flesh is edible. T. sinuspersici can survive for hours after being stranded on the beach. Little is known of the life history of the Gulf torpedo. It is a sluggish predator of bony fishes. At night it actively hunts for food, sculling slowly through the water about a meter above the bottom; during the day it usually rests on the bottom and opportunistically ambushes unwary prey. It uses its broad pectoral fins to envelop the target fish before delivering an electric shock to stun it. Usually solitary, they may form groups during the mating season. Reproduction is a placental viviparous, with the developing embryos initially surviving on their yolk sacs, and then on enriched uterine fluid produced by the mother. Litters of 9-22 young are birthed in the summer. Newborns measure about 10 cm wide; males mature at a disc width of 39 cm and females at 45 cm.

Effect of sea water level rise on sandy beach profile

Study of batch profile evolution and scouring effect due to the wave and current impacts in the coastal zone has been one of the most important issues in coastal engineering research projects during the past decades .to construct the coastal protective structures such piers, breakwaters and seawalls, it is necessary to estimate the scouring depth and bed level changes in the vicinity of such structures. Furthermore, the time - dependent changes in the equilibrium profile of the surf zone can be of great importance in designing coastal structures. Because of the importance of coastal engineering study in Iran due to the existence of two important coastal area located in the north and south parts of the country, and due to the lack of classified data in this respect (particularly the effect of sea level rise on coastal morphology) in the present study, based on the available data of Bandar Anzali region, an analysis of the coastal zone behavior is made. Bed level elevations are measured and compared with the theoretical equilibrium profile. It is shown that the behavior of the coastal zone in the region is consistent with the dean (equilibrium profile . In the next stage, following extensive investigations, the bed level changes due to a rise in sea level at different locations in the surf zone are estimated. Finally based on the results obtained for profile evolution due to sea level rise, the conclusion is made for design of coastal structures located in the study area. The results obtained from the present study indicate that the sea level rise can have a significant effect on beach profile and resulting erosion in the study area. The results are graphically presented with can be used for design purposes and establishing a data base for the coastal zone in the study region. It is believed that the present work can be regarded as a contribution to the existing knowledge of coast process in the study area and referred to as a basis for the future coastal research projects.