Shoreline erosion due to extreme storms and sea level rise

A summary is presented of research conducted on beach erosion associated with extreme storms and sea level rise. These results were developed by the author and graduate students under sponsorship of the University of Delaware Sea Grant Program. Various shoreline response problems of engineering interest are examined. The basis for the approach is a monotonic equilibrium profile of the form h = Ax2 /3 in which h is water depth at a distance x from the shoreline and A is a scale parameter depending primarily on sediment characteristics and secondarily on wave characteristics. This form is shown to be consistent with uniform wave energy dissipation per unit volume. The dependency of A on sediment size is quantified through laboratory and field data. Quasi-static beach response is examined to represent the effect of sea level rise. Cases considered include natural and seawalled profiles. To represent response to storms of realistic durations, a model is proposed in which the offshore transport is proportional to the "excess" energy dissipation per unit volume. The single rate constant in this model was evaluated based on large scale wave tank tests and confirmed with Hurricane Eloise pre- and post-storm surveys. It is shown that most hurricanes only cause 10% to 25% of the erosion potential associated with the peak storm tide and wave conditions. Additional applications include profile response employing a fairly realistic breaking model in which longshore bars are formed and long-term (500 years) Monte Carlo simulation including the contributions due to sea level rise and random storm occurrences. (PDF has 67 pages.)

Extreme events and ecological forecasting

Almost all extreme events lasting less than several weeks that significantly impact ecosystems are weather related. This review examines the response of estuarine systems to intense short-term perturbations caused by major weather events such as hurricanes. Current knowledge concerning these effects is limited to relatively few studies where hurricanes and storms impacted estuaries with established environmental monitoring programs. Freshwater inputs associated with these storms were found to initially result in increased primary productivity. When hydrographic conditions are favorable, bacterial consumption of organic matter produced by the phytoplankton blooms and deposited during the initial runoff event can contribute to significant oxygen deficits during subsequent warmer periods. Salinity stress and habitat destruction associated with freshwater inputs, as well as anoxia, adversely affect benthic populations and fish. In contrast, mobile invertebrate species such as shrimp, which have a short life cycle and the ability to migrate during the runoff event, initially benefit from the increased primary productivity and decreased abundance of fish predators. Events studied so far indicate that estuaries rebound in one to three years following major short-term perturbations. However, repeated storm events without sufficient recovery time may cause a fundamental shift in ecosystem structure (Scavia et al. 2002). This is a scenario consistent with the predicted increase in hurricanes for the east coast of the United States. More work on the response of individual species to these stresses is needed so management of commercial resources can be adjusted to allow sufficient recovery time for affected populations.

Effects of the Cessation of Sewage Sludge Dumping at the 12-Mile Site: Proceedings of the 12-Mile Dumpsite Symposium, Ocean Place Hilton Hotel, Long Branch, New Jersey, 18-19 June 1991

This study owes its inception to the wisdom and experience of the staff of the Northeast Fisheries Science Center who, after several decades of surveys in the New York Bight, recognized a unique opportunity to capitalize on the decision to stop ocean dumping of sewage sludge and designed an innovative field study to evaluate effects on living marine resources and their habitats. For decades ocean dumping was viewed as a cheap and effective means for disposal of wastes generated by urbanized coastal areas. Even after the 12-mile site was closed, sewage sludge continued to be dumped at Deepwater Dumpsite 106. The 6-mile site off the NewJersey coast is still used as a dumpsite for dredged material from New York Harbor areas. Discussions continue on the propriety of using the deep ocean spaces for disposal of a variety of material including low level radioactive wastes. Consequently, managers are still faced with critical decisions in this area. It is to be hoped that the results from the 12-mile study will provide the necessary information on which these managers can evaluate future risks associated with ocean waste disposal. (PDF file contains 270 pages.)

Extreme tides and sea levels in California [abstract]

During the winter of 1982-1983, a combination of high tides, higher than normal sea level and storm-induced waves were devastating to the coast of California. Damage estimates for public and private property destruction in the coastal counties of California totaled over $100,000,000. Much higher than average sea levels played a very important contributory role in the flooding damage. These unusually high sea levels were due to a combination of higher than normal mixed layer temperature associated with a strong, 2-year El Nino, storm surge due to low atmospheric pressure and persistent winds, and the cumulative effect of steady, "global" rise in relative sea level. Higher than average high tides coincided to an unusual extent with the peak sea levels reached during the numerous storms between November 1982 and March 1983. Important cyclical variations occur in California's mixed tide regime and the consequences of these on extreme tides have not been properly considered previously. In fact, erroneous "predictions" of much higher tides in the 1990's appearing in the popular press during the 1982-83 flooding, caused much public apprehension.

A tree-ring perspective on the extreme wetness of the early 1900’s in the western United States [abstract]

Ring-width indices from 136 sites in the area from northern Montana to southern New Mexico between latitudes 103°W and 111°W were examined to infer periods of anomalous wetness for the years 1700-1964. Sites were grouped into north, central and south regions, and the gross regional tree-ring fluctuations were compared. The results indicate that the period 1905-1917 was unique in the 265-year record for the combined magnitude, duration, and north/south coherence of the growth anomaly of much lesser magnitude occurred in the 1830's-1840's [sic]. Both this and the 1905-1917 anomaly appear from time-series plots to be manifestations of low-frequency growth variations at wave lengths between about 20 and 60 years.

St. John, USVI mission report, NOAA/NOS/NCCOS/CCMA/Biogeography Branch, July 6 - July 17, 2009

The intent of this field mission was to continue ongoing efforts: (1) to spatially characterize and monitor the distribution, abundance and size of reef fishes, and the abundance of macroinvertebrates (conch, Diatema, lobster) within and around the waters of the Virgin Islands National Park (VIIS) and newly established Virgin Islands Coral Reef National Monument (VICR), (2) to correlate this information to in-situ data collected on associated habitat parameters, (3) to use this information to establish the knowledge base necessary for enacting management decisions in a spatial setting and (4) to establish the efficacy of those management decisions. An additional focus this year, was to evaluate a new habitat data collection method for RHA sites (MSR and some Coral Bay sites). There are concerns that the cylinder habitat data are not reflective of the fish transect habitat. To address this, we collected habitat data at 5x4 m increments along the transect in addition to data collected using the cylinder method. We are currently assessing the potential differences between these methods and preliminary results indicate that the average difference of coral cover estimates between the two methods was 4.1% (range 0-11%) based on 16 sample sites. In addition, Erinn Muller, a Nancy Foster Fellowship recipient, collaborated with the Biogeography Branch to examine the spatial distribution of coral diseases, to provide baseline information on disease prevalence over varying spatial scales and to establish spatial distributions of coral diseases around St. John.

South American streamflow and the extreme phases of the Southern Oscillation

This study investigates the extent of the affect [sic] of the El Niño/Southern Oscillation on South American streamflow. The response of South American precipitation and temperature to the extreme phases of ENSO (El Niño and La Niña events) is well documented; but the response of South American hydrology has been barely studied. Such paucity of research contrasts sharply with that available on the response of North American streamflow to ENSO events.

Molecular identification of symbiotic dinoflagellates (Zooxanthellae) of dominant reef-building corals off Kish Island

Scleractinian coral species harbour communities of photosynthetic taxa of the genus Symbiodinium. As many as eight genetic clades (A, B, C, D, E, F, G and H) of Symbiodinium have been discovered using molecular biology. These clades may differ from each other in their physiology, and thus influence the ecological distribution and resilience of their host corals to environmental stresses. Corals of the Persian Gulf are normally subject to extreme environmental conditions including high salinity and seasonal variation in temperature. This study is the first to use molecular techniques to identify the Symbiodinium of the Iranian coral reefs to the level of phylogenetic clades. Samples of eight coral species were collected at two different depths from the eastern part of Kish Island in the northern Persian Gulf. Partial 28S nuclear ribosomal (nr) DNA of Symbiodinium (D1/D2 domains) were amplified by Polymerase Chain Reaction (PCR). PCR products were analyzed using Single Stranded Conformational Polymorphism (SSCP) and phylogenetic analyses of the LSU DNA sequences from a subset of the samples. The results showed that Symbiodinium populations were generally uniform among and within the populations of 8 coral species studied, and there are at least two clades of Symbiodinium from Kish Island. Clade D was detected from 8 of the coral species while clade C90 was found in 2 of species only (one species hosted two clades simultaneously). The dominance of clade D might be explained by high temperatures or the extreme temperature variation, typical of the Persian Gulf.

Investigation on reproduction process in two species of crab, Eriphia sebana and Ocypode saratan in the intertidal zone of Chabahar area

The present study with headline investigation on reproduction in two species of crab Eriphia sebana and Ocypode saratan was carried out in the intertidal zone of Chabahar in thirteen month from December 2004 to December 2005. Checked samplings have been taken, 45 number Crab monthly from any four stations by manual or use trap. During this study the following subjects were measured: temperature range and salinity, measurable coast granule, determination of sex ratio, relations carapace width with carapace length, Carapace width with total body weight, Gonad weight, gonadosomatic index, condition factor, gastrosomatic index, investigation content in stomach, LM50, growth parameters, plenty distribution length and width and gonad weight and total body weight. Studied on measurable coast granule were expressed that Ocypode saratan in Desalination station, were nest in soils equable sand and this quantity were confirmed in Pozm station. Sex ratio were assign in desalination area and Pozm M: F 0/44:0/56 and in Tiss and Chabahar M:F 0/45:0/55. Carapace length and carapace width (cm) and body weight (g) Furthest were designated in Ocypode saratan within carapace width sequential: In female: 5/42-6/15-105/13 and in male: 5/53-6/25-108/91 and in Eriphia sebana within Tiss area sequential: in female: 5/12-5/94-110/21 and in male 5/14-60/01-114/37. Have been linear relationship between carapace length and carapace width and equaled CW=aCL+b. Weight growth in two species were be modal and equaled BW=aCLb And increased crab weight by built up carapace width. Maximum gonad weight in Ocypode saratan within Desalination area in female have been outcome 3/39 and in male 0/84g and in Eriphia sebana extreme within Tiss during may in female were be 4/18 and in male 1/1g. Stomach content in Eriphia sebana were involved a black until half-purplish liquid and yellowish in Ocypode saratan. Stomach contents identifiable were being in four groups: Molluscoid, Crustacean, Plankton and Fish. Carapace width during the first year of maturation have been LM50:3/77 in Desalination area and LM50:3/92 in Pozm for Ocypode saratan and LM50:4/26 in Tiss and LM50:4/62 in Chabahar. Ability spawning in Eriphia sebana within Tiss has been CW=4/17cm and in Ocypode saratan within Desalination area CW=4/23cm. Maximun value of Loo for Eriphia sebana was equal 59/67 and growth factor K=0/68 within Tiss and Loo =61/64, K=0/65 for Ocypode saratan within Desalination area. Maximun GSI and GI have been within Desalination area and Tiss and minimum within Pozm and Chabahar. The maturity stages of two species were classifed into six stages. Review on GSI, CF have been showed that relation with temperature and salinity and definer in two species have been spawned in two period that Maximun in spring premier than autumn.