69 resultados para surf zone


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The framework of sediment budget concepts provides a formalized procedure to account for the various components of sediment flux and the changes of volume that occur within a given region. Sediment budget methodology can be useful in a number of coastal engineering and research applications, including: inferring the amount of onshore sediment transport for a nearshore system that contains an "excess of sediment", determining sediment deficits to downdrift beaches as a result of engineering works at navigational entrances, evaluating the performance of a beach nourishment project, inferring the distribution of longshore sediment transport across the surf zone, etc. This chapter reviews briefly the governing equations for sediment budget calculations, considers various measurement and other bases for determining the sediment flux components necessary to apply the sediment budget concept and finally for illustration purposes, applies the sediment budget concept to several examples. (PDF contains 52 pages.)

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Based on the hydrodynamic model and Shore Protection Manual (CERC - USA) we have calculated wave field characteristics in the typical wind conditions (wind velocity equal to 13m/s in the high frequency direction of the wind regime). Comparison between measured and calculated wave parameters was presented and these results were corresponded to each other. The following main wave characteristics were calculated: -Pattern of the refraction wave field. -Average wave height field. -Longshore current velocity field in surf zone. From distribution features of wave field characteristics in research areas, it could be summarized as following: - The formation of wave fields in the research areas was unequal because of their local difference of hydrometeorological conditions, river discharge, bottom relief… - At Cuadai (Dai mouth, Hoian) area in the N direction of incident wave field, wave has caused serious variation of the coastline. The coastline in the whole region, especially, at the south of the mouth was eroded and the foreland in the north of the mouth was deposited. - At Cai river mouth (Nhatrang) area in the E direction of incident wave field, wave has effected strongly and directly to the inshore and channel structure. - At Phanthiet bay area in the SW direction of incident wave field, wave has effected strongly to the whole shoreline from Da point to Ne point and caused serious erosion.

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Electric rays, thought to be the most primitive of the skates and rays, have stout tails but have rather expansive disc. This group is distinguished by the presence of powerful electric organs, derived from branchial muscles in head region. Torpedo sinuspersici found inshore in sandy bottoms, and well offshore from the surf zone down to 200 m. Also on or near coral reefs (like Kish Island in Persian Gulf). Common in shallow sandy areas. Occasionally hooked by anglers, more often seen by divers; can deliver a strong shock. Flesh is edible. T. sinuspersici can survive for hours after being stranded on the beach. Little is known of the life history of the Gulf torpedo. It is a sluggish predator of bony fishes. At night it actively hunts for food, sculling slowly through the water about a meter above the bottom; during the day it usually rests on the bottom and opportunistically ambushes unwary prey. It uses its broad pectoral fins to envelop the target fish before delivering an electric shock to stun it. Usually solitary, they may form groups during the mating season. Reproduction is a placental viviparous, with the developing embryos initially surviving on their yolk sacs, and then on enriched uterine fluid produced by the mother. Litters of 9-22 young are birthed in the summer. Newborns measure about 10 cm wide; males mature at a disc width of 39 cm and females at 45 cm.

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Study of batch profile evolution and scouring effect due to the wave and current impacts in the coastal zone has been one of the most important issues in coastal engineering research projects during the past decades .to construct the coastal protective structures such piers, breakwaters and seawalls, it is necessary to estimate the scouring depth and bed level changes in the vicinity of such structures. Furthermore, the time - dependent changes in the equilibrium profile of the surf zone can be of great importance in designing coastal structures. Because of the importance of coastal engineering study in Iran due to the existence of two important coastal area located in the north and south parts of the country, and due to the lack of classified data in this respect (particularly the effect of sea level rise on coastal morphology) in the present study, based on the available data of Bandar Anzali region, an analysis of the coastal zone behavior is made. Bed level elevations are measured and compared with the theoretical equilibrium profile. It is shown that the behavior of the coastal zone in the region is consistent with the dean (equilibrium profile . In the next stage, following extensive investigations, the bed level changes due to a rise in sea level at different locations in the surf zone are estimated. Finally based on the results obtained for profile evolution due to sea level rise, the conclusion is made for design of coastal structures located in the study area. The results obtained from the present study indicate that the sea level rise can have a significant effect on beach profile and resulting erosion in the study area. The results are graphically presented with can be used for design purposes and establishing a data base for the coastal zone in the study region. It is believed that the present work can be regarded as a contribution to the existing knowledge of coast process in the study area and referred to as a basis for the future coastal research projects.

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Fossil flora described in the present report is too limited for purposes of exact correlation, which may be expected to be settled by the marine faunas present at most horizons in the Isthmian region. Accompanying table of distribution will show that from the oldest (Hohio) to the youngest (Gatun) plant-bearing formations there is no observable difference in floral facies. This so-called Oligocence series of formations does not represent any great interval of time. (39 page document)

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An account of events of the Panama Canal Zone in 1911 by the author, C.F. Adams. (38 page document)

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Leonard Carpenter Panama Canal Collection. Photographs: Views of Panama and the Canal. [Box 1] from the Special Collections & Area Studies Department, George A. Smathers Libraries, University of Florida.

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Leonard Carpenter Panama Canal Collection. Photographs: Views of Panama and the Canal. [Box 1] from the Special Collections & Area Studies Department, George A. Smathers Libraries, University of Florida.

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Fifty-eight species of Decapods are enumerated from the collections examined by the author. Three species described by other authors are inserted in systematic order, thus making the list complete for the Panama region. All available material in the United States National Museum from Panama and Costa Rica is included; it ranges in age from the Oligocene (Culebra formation) to the Pleistocene.

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The paper presents: 1) biologic summaries for each of the formations for which paleontologic data are available, with brief discussions of the geologic age; 2) geologic correlations of the formations and the distribution of their age-equivalents in Central America, the West Indies, and the southeastern United States; 3) an outline of the paleogeography of middle America. The biologic summaries are based on the paleontologic memoirs in this vol. by Messars. Howe, Berry, Chuchman, Jackson, Canu and Bassler and Pilsbry, Miss Rathbun and myself.

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exhaustive biological survey of the Panama Canal Zone-will be undertaken in the winter of 1910-11. A part of the fresh-water streams of the Isthmus of Panama empty into the Atlantic Ocean and others into the Pacific Ocean. It is known that a certain number of animals and plants in the streams on the Atlantic side are different from those of the Pacific side, but as no exact biological survey has ever been undertaken the extent and magnitude of these differences have yet to be learned. When the canal is completed the organisms of the various watersheds will be offered a ready means of mingling together, the natural distinctions now existing will be obliterated....

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With the cooperation of several of the executive departments, and of the Field Museum of Natural History, a party of about 10 naturalists was accordingly sent to the zone, and the results so far accomplished have been very satisfactory. Large collections of biological material have been received, including specimens of a considerable number of genera and species new to science. It also seemed important to determine exactly the geographical distribution of the various organisms inhabiting the Isthmus, which is one of the routes by which the animals and plants of South America have entered North America and vice versa. The estimated cost of the survey which would have to be met by the Institution is $11,000...

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At first it was intended to confine the collections to the Canal Zone proper, but as the faunal and floral areas extended to the north and south of this region, it was decided to carry the work into the Republic of Panama, a step which met with the hearty approval of that Republic. The work accomplished has been very valuable to science, including collections and observations of vertebrate animals, land and fresh water mollusks, and plants, including flowering plants, grasses and ferns. Special attention will be given during the coming season to vertebrate animals, insects, crustaceans, rotifers and other minute freshwater animals, and also to the microscopic plants known as diatoms. Includes appendix of papers that resulted.

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Submarine Landslides: An Introduction 1 By RIo Lee, W.C. Schwab, and J.S. Booth U.S. Atlantic Continental Slope Landslides: Their Distribution, General Anributes, and Implications 14 By J.S. Booth, D.W. O'Leary, Peter Popenoe, and W.W. Danforth Submarine Mass Movement, a Formative Process of Passive Continental Margins: The Munson-Nygren Landslide Complex and the Southeast New England Landslide Complex 23 By D.W. O'Leary The Cape Fear Landslide: Slope Failure Associated with Salt Diapirism and Gas Hydrate Decomposition 40 By Peter Popenoe, E.A. Schmuck, and W.P. Dillon Ancient Crustal Fractures Control the Location and Size of Collapsed Blocks at the Blake Escarpment, East of Florida 54 By W.P. Dillon, J.S. Risch, K.M. Scanlon, P.C. Valentine, and Q.J. Huggett Tectonic and Stratigraphic Control on a Giant Submarine Slope Failure: Puerto Rico Insular Slope 60 By W.C. Schwab, W.W. Danforth, and K.M. Scanlon Slope Failure of Carbonate Sediment on the West Florida Slope 69 By D.C. Twichell, P.C. Valentine, and L.M. Parson Slope Failures in an Area of High Sedimentation Rate: Offshore Mississippi River Delta 79 By J.M. Coleman, D.B. Prior, L.E. Garrison, and H.J. Lee Salt Tectonics and Slope Failure in an Area of Salt Domes in the Northwestern Gulf of Mexico 92 By B.A. McGregor, R.G. Rothwell, N.H. Kenyon, and D.C. Twichell Slope Stability in Regions 01 Sea-Floor Gas Hydrate: Beaufort Sea Continental Slope 97 By R.E. Kayen and H.J. Lee Mass Movement Related to Large Submarine Canyons Along the Beringian Margin, Alaska 104 By P.R. Carlson, H.A. Karl, B.D. Edwards, J.V. Gardner, and R. Hall Comparison of Tectonic and Stratigraphic Control of Submarine Landslides on the Kodiak Upper Continental Slope, Alaska 117 By M.A. Hampton Submarine Landslides That Had a Significant Impact on Man and His Activities: Seward and Valdez, Alaska 123 By M.A. Hampton, R.W. Lemke, and H.W. Coulter Processes Controlling the Style of Mass Movement in Glaciomarine Sediment: Northeastern Gulf of Alaska 135 By W.C. Schwab and H.J. Lee Contents V VI Contents Liquefaction of Continental Shelf Sediment: The Northern California Earthquake of 1980 143 By M.E. Field A Submarine Landslide Associated with Shallow Sea-Floor Gas and Gas Hydrates off Northern California 151 By M.E. Field and J.H. Barber, Jr. Sur Submarine Landslide, a Deep-Water Sediment Slope Failure 158 By C.E. Gutmacher and W.R. Normark Seismically Induced Mudflow in Santa Barbara Basin, California 167 By B.D. Edwards, H.J. Lee, and M.E. Field Submarine Landslides in a Basin and Ridge Setting, Southern California 176 By M.E. Field and B.D. Edwards Giant Volcano-Related Landslides and the Development of the Hawaiian Islands 184 By W.R. Normark, J.G. Moore, and M.E. Torresan Submarine Slope Failures Initiated by Hurricane Iwa, Kahe Point, Oahu, Hawaii 197 By W.R. Normark, Pat Wilde, J.F. Campbell, T.E. Chase, and Bruce Tsutsui (PDF contains 210 pages)