Direct estimation wave setup as a medium level in swash

The extreme runup is a key parameter for a shore risk analysis in which the accurate and quantitative estimation of the upper limit reached by waves is essential. Runup can be better approximated by splitting the setup and swash semi-amplitude contributions. In an experimental study recording setup becomes difficult due to infragravity motions within the surf zone, hence, it would be desirable to measure the setup with available methodologies and devices. In this research, an analysis is made of evaluated the convenience of direct estimation setup as the medium level in the swash zone for experimental runup analysis through a physical model. A physical mobile bed model was setup in a wave flume at the Laboratory for Maritime Experimentation of CEDEX. The wave flume is 36 metres long, 6.5 metres wide and 1.3 metres high. The physical model was designed to cover a reasonable range of parameters, three different slopes (1/50, 1/30 and 1/20), two sand grain sizes (D50 = 0.12 mm and 0.70 mm) and a range for the Iribarren number in deep water (ξ0) from 0.1 to 0.6. Best formulations were chosen for estimating a theoretical setup in the physical model application. Once theoretical setup had been obtained, a comparison was made with an estimation of the setup directly as a medium level of the oscillation in swash usually considered in extreme runup analyses. A good correlation was noted between both theoretical and time-averaging setup and a relation is proposed. Extreme runup is analysed through the sum of setup and semi-amplitude of swash. An equation is proposed that could be applied in strong foreshore slope-dependent reflective beaches.

Estudio en modelo físico a escala reducida de la viabilidad del empleo de buques fondeados como diques flotantes para abrigo portuario y defensa de costas

Los diques flotantes son estructuras que atenúan la energía del oleaje fundamentalmente por reflexión y turbulencia. Aunque presentan importantes ventajas en términos constructivos y medioambientales, su efectividad es limitada y en la práctica sólo se emplean en condiciones climáticas propias de zonas con oleajes poco energéticos. Por otro lado, el buque es la estructura flotante por excelencia y su empleo para el abrigo portuario y costero en determinadas situaciones puede aportar las ventajas propias de los diques flotantes, al tiempo que ampliar el rango de oleajes frente a los que estas estructuras son efectivas. El propósito de esta Tesis Doctoral es evaluar la viabilidad del empleo de buques fondeados como diques flotantes para el abrigo portuario y costero. Para ello, se han realizado ensayos en modelo físico a escala reducida en un canal de oleaje del Centro de Estudios de Puertos y Costas (CEPYC), con el objeto de determinar los coeficientes de transmisión (Ct), reflexión (Cr) y disipación (Cd) de barcos de diversas tipologías y dimensiones, sometidos a diferentes oleajes en distintas situaciones de carga, fondeo y profundidad del emplazamiento. La efectividad de los buques empleados en los ensayos se ha determinado mediante el análisis de dichos coeficientes y su variación con la altura de ola y el periodo de los oleajes incidentes. Además, se han registrado las fuerzas existentes en las cadenas de fondeo con objeto de comprobar la viabilidad del mismo y facilitar una estimación del diámetro de las cadenas que serían necesarias en cada situación. Posteriormente, se han aplicado los resultados obtenidos en los ensayos en modelo físico reducido a dos situaciones de abrigo portuario y costero. La primera aplicación consiste en el empleo de buques como defensa temporal en fases constructivas por medios marítimos, partiendo de la hipótesis de que, actuando como diques flotantes, puede proteger la zona de la obra y ampliar las ventanas temporales de periodos de actividad en obra marítima. Las actividades que se han analizado son las de dragado de fondos, vertidos de material granular y transporte y fondeo de cajones flotantes para diques y muelles. La segunda aplicación estudiada es el empleo de buques para la protección costera y la formación de salientes y tómbolos. Los coeficientes de transmisión obtenidos se han introducido en formulaciones analíticas que permiten prever la evolución de la costa frente a la protección procurada por el buque actuando como dique flotante exento. Finalmente se han redactado las conclusiones de la investigación y se han propuesto nuevas líneas de investigación relacionadas con esta Tesis Doctoral. Floating breakwaters are structures which attenuate wave energy mainly by reflection and turbulence. They display advantages in terms of construction and ecology, amongst others. However, their use is restricted in practice to certain areas with good climatic conditions and low energy waves. Moreover, ships are the most common floating structures and their use for port and coastal shelter in certain situations could widen the range of applicability in addition to the rest of advantages of floating breakwaters. The purpose of this research is to assess the feasibility of ships anchored as floating breakwaters for port and coastal protection. To that end, tests in a scaled down physical model have been conducted in a wave flume in the Centre of Port and Coastal Studies (CEPYC), in order to determine the transmission (Ct), reflection (Cr) and dissipation (Cd) coefficients of ships of diverse types and dimensions, under different wave, load, anchoring and depth conditions. The effectiveness of the several ships used in the tests has been determined by analyzing these coefficients and their variation with the wave height and period of the incident waves. In addition, the existing forces in the anchor chains have been registered to verify the feasibility of the anchoring systems, as well as to provide an estimation of the diameter of the chains that would be needed in each situation. Subsequently, the results of the tests have been applied to two situations of port and coastal protection. The first one is the use of ships as a temporary defense for maritime works with construction phases by maritime means, on the assumption that, acting as floating breakwaters, they can protect the work area and increase the time windows of periods of activity in maritime works. Dredging, dumping of granular material and transport and positioning of big concrete caissons for docks and breakwaters were the activities analyzed. The second situation is the use of ships for coastal protection and forming salients of sand or tombolos. Some analytical formulations which take into account the transmission coefficients from the tests have been used to predict the evolution of the coastline under the protection given by the ships acting as detached floating breakwaters. Finally, the conclusions of the research have been addressed and the proposal of new lines of work related to the topic has been made.

Perfil de playas sustentadas : estudio hidrodinámico y experimental : directrices de diseño

Las playas sustentadas por medio de un pie sumergido son una atractiva alternativa de diseño de regeneración de playas especialmente cuando las condiciones física del emplazamiento o las características de la arena nativa y de préstamo producen perfiles de alimentación que no se intersectan. La observación y propuesta de este tipo de solución data de los años 1960’s, así como la experiencia internacional en la construcción de este tipo de playas. Sin embargo, a pesar de su utilización y los estudios en campo y laboratorio, no se dispone de criterios ingenieriles que apoyen el diseño de las mismas. Esta tesis consiste en un análisis experimental del perfil de playas sustentadas en un pie sumergido (o colgadas) que se concreta en una propuesta de directrices de diseño general que permiten estimar la ubicación y características geométricas del pie sumergido frente a un oleaje y material que constituye la playa determinados. En la tesis se describe el experimento bidimensional realizado en el modelo físico de fondo móvil, donde se combinan cinco tipos de oleaje con tres configuraciones del pie sumergido (“Sin estructura”, configuración baja o “Estructura 1” y configuración alta o “Estructura 2”), se presentan los resultados obtenidos y se realiza una discusión detallada de las implicaciones de los resultados desde el punto de vista hidrodinámico utilizando monomios adimensionales. Se ha realizado un análisis detallado del estado del arte sobre playas colgadas, presentando el concepto y las experiencias de realizaciones en distintos países. Se ha realizado una cuidadosa revisión de la literatura publicada sobre estudios experimentales de playas colgadas, modelos teóricos y otras cuestiones auxiliares, necesarias para la formulación de la metodología de la tesis. El estudio realizado se ha estructurado en dos fases. En la primera fase se ha realizado una experimentación en un modelo físico de fondo móvil construido en las instalaciones del Centro de Estudios de Puertos y Costas (CEPYC) del Centro de Estudios y Experimentación de Obras Públicas (CEDEX), consistente en un canal de 36 m de longitud, 3 m de anchura y 1.5 m de altura, provisto de un generador de oleaje de tipo pistón. Se ha diseñado una campaña de 15 ensayos, que se obtienen sometiendo a cinco tipos de oleaje tres configuraciones distintas de playa colgada. En los ensayos se ha medido el perfil de playa en distintos instantes hasta llegar al equilibrio, determinando a partir de esos datos el retroceso de la línea de costa y el volumen de sedimentos perdido. El tiempo total efectivo de ensayo asciende a casi 650 horas, y el número de perfiles de evolución de playa obtenidos totaliza 229. En la segunda fase se ha abordado el análisis de los resultados obtenidos con la finalidad de comprender el fenómeno, identificar las variables de las que depende y proponer unas directrices ingenieriles de diseño. Se ha estudiado el efecto de la altura de ola, del periodo del oleaje, del francobordo adimensional y del parámetro de Dean, constatándose la dificultad de comprensión del funcionamiento de estas obras ya que pueden ser beneficiosas, perjudiciales o inocuas según los casos. También se ha estudiado la respuesta del perfil de playa en función de otros monomios adimensionales, tales como el número de Reynolds o el de Froude. En el análisis se ha elegido el monomio “plunger” como el más significativo, encontrando relaciones de éste con el peralte de oleaje, la anchura de coronación adimensional, la altura del pie de playa adimensional y el parámetro de Dean. Finalmente, se propone un método de diseño de cuatro pasos que permite realizar un primer encaje del diseño funcional de la playa sustentada frente a un oleaje de características determinadas. Las contribuciones más significativas desde el punto de vista científico son: - La obtención del juego de resultados experimentales. - La caracterización del comportamiento de las playas sustentadas. - Las relaciones propuestas entre el monomio plunger y las distintas variables explicativas seleccionadas, que permiten predecir el comportamiento de la obra. - El método de diseño propuesto, en cuatro pasos, para este tipo de esquemas de defensa de costas. Perched beaches are an attractive beach nourishment design alternative especially when either the site conditions or the characteristics of both the native and the borrow sand lead to a non-intersecting profile The observation and suggestion of the use of this type of coastal defence scheme dates back to the 1960’s, as well as the international experience in the construction of this type of beaches. However, in spite of its use and the field and laboratory studies performed to-date, no design engineering guidance is available to support its design. This dissertation is based on the experimental work performed on a movable bed physical model and the use of dimensionless parameters in analyzing the results to provide general functional design guidance that allow the designer, at a particular stretch of coast - to estimate the location and geometric characteristics of the submerged sill as well as to estimate the suitable sand size to be used in the nourishment. This dissertation consists on an experimental analysis of perched beaches by means of a submerged sill, leading to the proposal of general design guidance that allows to estimate the location and geometric characteristics of the submerged sill when facing a wave condition and for a given beach material. The experimental work performed on a bi-dimensional movable bed physical model, where five types of wave conditions are combined with three configurations of the submerged sill (“No structure”, low structure or “Structure 1”, and high structure or “Structure 2”) is described, results are presented, and a detailed discussion of the results - from the hydrodynamic point of view – of the implications of the results by using dimensionless parameters is carried out. A detailed state of the art analysis about perched beaches has been performed, presenting the “perched beach concept” and the case studies of different countries. Besides, a careful revision of the literature about experimental studies on perched beaches, theoretical models, and other topics deemed necessary to formulate the methodology of this work has been completed. The study has been divided into two phases. Within the first phase, experiments on a movable-bed physical model have been developed. The physical model has been built in the Centro de Estudios de Puertos y Costas (CEPYC) facilities, Centro de Estudios y Experimentación de Obras Públicas (CEDEX). The wave flume is 36 m long, 3 m wide and 1.5 m high, and has a piston-type regular wave generator available. The test plan consisted of 15 tests resulting from five wave conditions attacking three different configurations of the perched beach. During the development of the tests, the beach profile has been surveyed at different intervals until equilibrium has been reached according to these measurements. Retreat of the shoreline and relative loss of sediment in volume have been obtained from the measurements. The total effective test time reaches nearly 650 hours, whereas the total number of beach evolution profiles measured amounts to 229. On the second phase, attention is focused on the analysis of results with the aim of understanding the phenomenon, identifying the governing variables and proposing engineering design guidelines. The effect of the wave height, the wave period, the dimensionless freeboard and of the Dean parameter have been analyzed. It has been pointed out the difficulty in understanding the way perched beaches work since they turned out to be beneficial, neutral or harmful according to wave conditions and structure configuration. Besides, the beach profile response as a function of other dimensionless parameters, such as Reynolds number or Froude number, has been studied. In this analysis, the “plunger” parameter has been selected as the most representative, and relationships between the plunger parameter and the wave steepness, the dimensionless crest width, the dimensionless crest height, and the Dean parameter have been identified. Finally, an engineering 4-step design method has been proposed, that allows for the preliminary functional design of the perched beach for a given wave condition. The most relevant contributions from the scientific point of view have been: - The acquisition of a consistent set of experimental results. - The characterization of the behavior of perched beaches. - The proposed relationships between the plunger parameter and the different explanatory variables selected, that allow for the prediction of the beach behavior. - The proposed design method, four-step method, for this type of coastal defense schemes.

Fast magnetosonic wave excitation by an array of wires with time-modulated currents

The excitation of Fast Magnetosonic (FMS)waves by a cylindrical array of parallel tethers carrying timemodulated current is discussed. The tethers would fly vertical in the equatorial plane, which is perpendicular to the geomagnetic field when its tilt is ignored, and would be stabilized by the gravity gradient. The tether array would radiate a single FMS wave. In the time-dependent background made of geomagnetic field plus radiated wave, plasma FMS perturbations are excited in the array vicinity through a parametric instability. The growth rate is estimated by truncating the evolution equation for FMS perturbations to the two azimuthal modes of lowest order. Design parameters such as tether length and number, required power and mass are discussed for Low Earth Orbit conditions. The array-attached wave structure would have the radiated wave controlled by the intensity and modulation frequency of the currents, making an active experiment on non-linear low frequency waves possible in real space plasma conditions.

Analysis of wave attenuation and shore protection of a bulk carrier ship performing as a detached floating breakwater

Análisis de la atenuación del oleaje por un carguero funcionando como dique flotante y aplicación a dos casos de protección portuaria y costera. The effectiveness of a bulk carrier working as a detached floating breakwater to protect a stretch of coast and form salients or tombolos is assessed in this paper. Experiments were conducted in the Madrid CEDEX facilities in a 30 m long, 3 m wide, 1/150 scale flume. The bulk carrier ship is 205 m long, 29 m wide and 18 m in height with a draught of 13 m, and has been subjected to irregular waves with significant heights from 2 m to 4 m and peak periods from 6 s to 12 s at a depth of 15 m, all prototype dimensions. Three probes were placed between the wave paddle and the ship to record incident and reflected waves and four probes were placed between the ship and the coastline to measure the transmitted waves. Transmission, reflection and dissipation coefficients (Ct, Cr, Cd) were calculated to determine wave attenuation. Results show good shelter in the lee of the ship with values of Ct under 0.5 for peak periods from 6 s to 11 s. In addition, forces on the mooring chains were measured showing maximum values of about 2000 tons at a 10 speak period. Finally, two analytical models were used to determine the shoreline’s response to the ship’s protection and to assess the possible forming of salients or tombolos. According to the results, salients - but not tombolos - are formed in all tests.