Direct estimation wave setup as a medium level in swash

The extreme runup is a key parameter for a shore risk analysis in which the accurate and quantitative estimation of the upper limit reached by waves is essential. Runup can be better approximated by splitting the setup and swash semi-amplitude contributions. In an experimental study recording setup becomes difficult due to infragravity motions within the surf zone, hence, it would be desirable to measure the setup with available methodologies and devices. In this research, an analysis is made of evaluated the convenience of direct estimation setup as the medium level in the swash zone for experimental runup analysis through a physical model. A physical mobile bed model was setup in a wave flume at the Laboratory for Maritime Experimentation of CEDEX. The wave flume is 36 metres long, 6.5 metres wide and 1.3 metres high. The physical model was designed to cover a reasonable range of parameters, three different slopes (1/50, 1/30 and 1/20), two sand grain sizes (D50 = 0.12 mm and 0.70 mm) and a range for the Iribarren number in deep water (ξ0) from 0.1 to 0.6. Best formulations were chosen for estimating a theoretical setup in the physical model application. Once theoretical setup had been obtained, a comparison was made with an estimation of the setup directly as a medium level of the oscillation in swash usually considered in extreme runup analyses. A good correlation was noted between both theoretical and time-averaging setup and a relation is proposed. Extreme runup is analysed through the sum of setup and semi-amplitude of swash. An equation is proposed that could be applied in strong foreshore slope-dependent reflective beaches.

Appropiate locations for geotextile bag revetments: an analysis

Social pressure exerted by urban development, the increase in erosion on many coastal stretches, and the rise in sea level due to climate change over the last few decades have led governments to increase investment in coastal protection. In turn, a reduction in costs and increases in ease of construction and rate of implementation have led to sand-filled geotextile elements, such as bags, tubes, and containers, becoming an alternative or supplement to traditional coastal defence materials, such as rubble mounds, concrete, and so on. Not all coastal zones are appropriate for sand-filled geotextile structures as coastal defences. This article analyses suitable zones for locating geotextile bag revetments to protect coasts from storm erosion and concludes that the least suitable zones are the surf zone (on an open coast and on a slightly protected coast) and deep water (on an open coast), except if a suitable reinforcement is carried out when the demand makes it necessary this build this kind of defence.