Slow fashion and sustainability in Spain: How can local manufacturing improve sustainability and how do consumers respond?

"Slow Fashion" attempts to offset the demand for fast fashion and mass production (Fletcher, 2007). Consumers' response to sustainability-based practices is a limited discourse and studies for slow fashion concept are scarce. This study thus aims to enlighten the subject of how slow fashion concept could improve local economies and how Spanish consumers respond to such initiatives. This paper is based on an exploratory qualitative research for which focus group interviews including three group discussions with Spanish consumers were held. The data was examined by constant comparison analysis to present consumer insights. Moreover, a case study was conducted with a Spanish apparel brand. Saint Brissant was chosen since it manufactures in Spain to (i) ensure its products? high quality and (ii) to empower Spanish economy. This paper provides empirical insights. Even though local manufacturing was perceived to have a higher quality, Spanish consumers? behavioural intentions of using local brands were not high.Self-interest, mainly price and design, was recorded as the most influential purchase criteria. Furthermore, Saint Brissant case demonstrated that local manufacturing could boost local economies by creating workforce. However, governmental subsidies should be rearranged and consumers? perceptions should be improved to support local manufacturers in Spain.

Constructed Fashion: The Catwalk System as an Architectural Project

Teniendo en cuenta que no hay nada que se escape de la moda 1, y extendiendonos más allá de esta manida discusión sobre intersecciones formales, esta investigación propone la pasarela como un lugar real de mediación entre moda y arquitectura. Asumiendo esta condición, la pasarela encarna nuevos modos de producción apropiándose de su espacio y estructura, y convierténdose en una máquina capaz de generar múltiples y más bien infinitos significados. La moda es sin duda un proyecto creativo, que ha venido utilizando la pasarela como un marco para la reordenación de su narrativa visual, renovándose asi mismo como fenómeno social. Este proyecto de investigación plantea, que contrariamente las tipologías actuales de las pasarelas no nos facilitan la comprensión de una colección – que suele ser el objetivo principal. Presentan en cambio un entorno en el que se acoplan diferentes formatos visuales, -con varias capas-, conviéndolo en una compleja construcción y provocando nunerosas fricciones con el espacio-tiempo-acción durante el proceso de creación de otros territorios. Partiendo de la idea de la pasarela como un sistema, en el que sus numerosas variables pueden producir diversas combinaciones, esta investigación plantea la hipótesis por la cual un nuevo sistema de pasarela se estaría formando enteramente con capas de información. Este escenario nos conduciría a la inmersión final de la moda en los tejidos de la virtualidad. Si bien el debate sobre la relevancia de los desfiles de moda se ha vuelto más evidente hoy en día, esta investigación especula con la posibilidad del pensamiento arquitectónico y como este puede introducir metodologías de análisis en el marco de estos desfiles de moda, proponiendo una lectura de la pasarela como un sistema de procedimientos específicos inherente a los proyectos/procesos de la arquitectura. Este enfoque enlaza ambas prácticas en un territorio común donde el espacio, el diseño, el comportamiento, el movimiento, y los cuerpos son ordenados/organizados en la creación de estas nuevas posibilidades visuales, y donde las interacciones activan la generación de la novedad y los mensajes. PALABRAS CLAVES moda, sistema, virtual, información, arquitectura Considering that there is nothing left untouched by fashion2, and going beyond the already exhausted discussion about formal intersections, this research introduces the catwalk as the real arena of mediation between fashion and architecture. By assuming this condition, the catwalk embodies new modes of production that appropriates its space and turns it into a machine for generating multiple if not infinite meanings. Fashion, as a creative project, has utilized the catwalk as a frame for rearranging its visual narrative and renewing itself as social phenomena. This research disputes, however, that the current typologies of catwalks do not facilitate the understanding of the collection – as its primary goal - but, instead, present an environment composed of multi-layered visual formats, becoming a complex construct that collides space-time-action in the creation of other territories. Departing from the analysis of the catwalk as a system and how its many variables can produce diverse combinations, this research presents the hypothesis that a new system is being formed entirely built out of information. Such scenario indicates fashion´s final immersion into the fabrics of virtuality. While the discussion about the relevance of fashion shows has become more evident today, this research serves as an introductory speculation on how architectural thinking can introduce methodologies of analysis within the framework of the fashion shows, by proposing a reading of the catwalk as a system through specific procedures that are inherent to architectural projects. Such approach intertwines both practices into a common territory where space, design, behaviour, movement, and bodies are organized for the creation of visual possibilities, and where interactions are triggered in the making of novelty and messages. KEYWORDS fashion, system, virtual, information, architectural

How Can Local Manufacturing Improve Economic Sustainability? Saint Brissant: a case study of local manufacturing in Spain

Fast-fashion retailers and mass production dominate the fashion and apparel industry. Increased globalization, labor intensity and outsourcing to developing countries are fostering the interest in sustainability within the industry. There is a growth of a new movement attempting to offset the demand for fast fashion, "Slow Fashion" movement. Slow fashion is not time-based but quality-based approach in which designers, buyers, retailers and consumers are more aware of the impacts on workers, communities and ecosystems (Fletcher 2007). European Union has also some critical targets to reach by 2020. Spain, specifically, has to meet some requirements in terms of economy and sustainability. This exploratory study analyzed how slow fashion concept, precisely manufacturing locally, could improve economic development. Local manufacturing, its impact on economic development and the challenges of Spanish market are illustrated through a case study of one Spanish fashion brand, Saint Brissant.

Promotion of intangible heritage as a tool to strengthen revitalisation of historic centres: the case of de Monumenta Programme in the City of Porto Alegre (Rio Grande do Sul State) Brazil

The preservation of tangible cultural heritage does not guarantee effective revitalisation of urban historic areas as a whole. The legacy of our history consists not only of paintings, sculptures, architectural monuments and public spaces, but also the safeguarding of immaterial aspects of social life, such as oral traditions, rituals, practices, knowledge and craft skills. From 1999 to 2013, 26 Brazilian cities benefited from the Monumenta Programme - a national cultural policy that involved institutions, the private sector and the local community. The purpose of the programme was to stimulate economic growth and increase cultural and social development of the historic centres. Moreover, it sought to increase the number of residents in the benefited areas as defined in its agenda (IDB, 1999; MinC & Programa Monumenta, 2006). Using the Historic Centre of Porto Alegre as a case study, this paper examines how this cultural programme enables demographic change through the promotion of intangible cultural heritage, e.g. by supporting educational projects. The demographic flow was analysed using the microdata of the Populations Censuses (years 2000 and 2010) available from the Brazilian Institute of Geography and Statistics. The results showed an increase in low-income residents the areas that participated in the programme. This increase may have been motivated by a set of cultural-educational projects under the auspices of the Monumenta Programme. The retraining of artisans of Alfândega Square, the training of low-income youth for restoration work and the implementation of the "Black Route Museum in Porto Alegre" (Bicca, 2010) are just some examples of what was done to improve the local community's economy, to encourage social cohesion and to enhance the awareness of cultural diversity as a positive and essential value in society.

Integrated program debugging, verification, and optimization using abstract interpretation (and the Ciao system preprocessor)

The technique of Abstract Interpretation has allowed the development of very sophisticated global program analyses which are at the same time provably correct and practical. We present in a tutorial fashion a novel program development framework which uses abstract interpretation as a fundamental tool. The framework uses modular, incremental abstract interpretation to obtain information about the program. This information is used to validate programs, to detect bugs with respect to partial specifications written using assertions (in the program itself and/or in system libraries), to generate and simplify run-time tests, and to perform high-level program transformations such as multiple abstract specialization, parallelization, and resource usage control, all in a provably correct way. In the case of validation and debugging, the assertions can refer to a variety of program points such as procedure entry, procedure exit, points within procedures, or global computations. The system can reason with much richer information than, for example, traditional types. This includes data structure shape (including pointer sharing), bounds on data structure sizes, and other operational variable instantiation properties, as well as procedure-level properties such as determinacy, termination, nonfailure, and bounds on resource consumption (time or space cost). CiaoPP, the preprocessor of the Ciao multi-paradigm programming system, which implements the described functionality, will be used to illustrate the fundamental ideas.

Practical case with regard to applying the functional and environmental method to low crest level, detached breakwaters

The research work as presented in this article covers the design of detached breakwaters since they constitute a type of coastal defence work with which to combat many of the erosion problems found on beaches in a stable, sustainable fashion. The main aim of this work is to formulate a functional and environmental (but not structural) design method, enabling the fundamental characteristics of a detached breakwater to be defined as a function of the effect it is wished to induce on the coast, and taking into account variables of a different nature (climate, geomorphology and geometry) influencing the changes the shoreline undergoes after its construction. With this article, it is intended to submit the final result of the investigation undertaken, applying the detached breakwater design method as developed to solving a practical case. Thus it may be shown how the method enables a detached breakwater’s geometric pre-sizing to be tackled at a place on the coast with certain climate, geomorphology and littoral dynamic characteristics, first setting the final state of equilibrium it is wanted to obtain therein after its construction.

Impact And Explosive Loads On Concrete Buildings Using Shell And Beam Type Elements

The threat of impact or explosive loads is regrettably a scenario to be taken into account in the design of lifeline or critical civilian buildings. These are often made of concrete and not specifically designed for military threats. Numerical simulation of such cases may be undertaken with the aid of state of the art explicit dynamic codes, however several difficult challenges are inherent to such models: the material modeling for the concrete anisotropic failure, consideration of reinforcement bars and important structural details, adequate modeling of pressure waves from explosions in complex geometries, and efficient solution to models of complete buildings which can realistically assess failure modes. In this work we employ LS-Dyna for calculation, with Lagrangian finite elements and explicit time integration. Reinforced concrete may be represented in a fairly accurate fashion with recent models such as CSCM model [1] and segregated rebars constrained within the continuum mesh. However, such models cannot be realistically employed for complete models of large buildings, due to limitations of time and computer resources. The use of structural beam and shell elements for this purpose would be the obvious solution, with much lower computational cost. However, this modeling requires careful calibration in order to reproduce adequately the highly nonlinear response of structural concrete members, including bending with and without compression, cracking or plastic crushing, plastic deformation of reinforcement, erosion of vanished elements etc. The main objective of this work is to provide a strategy for modeling such scenarios based on structural elements, using available material models for structural elements [2] and techniques to include the reinforcement in a realistic way. These models are calibrated against fully three-dimensional models and shown to be accurate enough. At the same time they provide the basis for realistic simulation of impact and explosion on full-scale buildings

Relating data—parallelism and (and—) parallelism in logic programs

Much work has been done in the áreas of and-parallelism and data parallelism in Logic Programs. Such work has proceeded to a certain extent in an independent fashion. Both types of parallelism offer advantages and disadvantages. Traditional (and-) parallel models offer generality, being able to exploit parallelism in a large class of programs (including that exploited by data parallelism techniques). Data parallelism techniques on the other hand offer increased performance for a restricted class of programs. The thesis of this paper is that these two forms of parallelism are not fundamentally different and that relating them opens the possibility of obtaining the advantages of both within the same system. Some relevant issues are discussed and solutions proposed. The discussion is illustrated through visualizations of actual parallel executions implementing the ideas proposed.

Automatic exploitation of non-determinate independent and-parallelism in the basic andorra model

Andorra-I is the first implementation of a language based on the Andorra Principie, which states that determinate goals can (and shonld) be run before other goals, and even in a parallel fashion. This principie has materialized in a framework called the Basic Andorra model, which allows or-parallelism as well as (dependent) and-parallelism for determinate goals. In this report we show that it is possible to further extend this model in order to allow general independent and-parallelism for nondeterminate goals, withont greatly modifying the underlying implementation machinery. A simple an easy way to realize such an extensión is to make each (nondeterminate) independent goal determinate, by using a special "bagof" constract. We also show that this can be achieved antomatically by compile-time translation from original Prolog programs. A transformation that fulfüls this objective and which can be easily antomated is presented in this report.

Abstraction carrying code and resource-awareness

Proof-Carrying Code (PCC) is a general approach to mobile code safety in which the code supplier augments the program with a certifícate (or proof). The intended benefit is that the program consumer can locally validate the certifícate w.r.t. the "untrusted" program by means of a certifícate checker—a process which should be much simpler, eíñcient, and automatic than generating the original proof. Abstraction Carrying Code (ACC) is an enabling technology for PCC in which an abstract model of the program plays the role of certifícate. The generation of the certifícate, Le., the abstraction, is automatically carried out by an abstract interpretation-based analysis engine, which is parametric w.r.t. different abstract domains. While the analyzer on the producer side typically has to compute a semantic fixpoint in a complex, iterative process, on the receiver it is only necessary to check that the certifícate is indeed a fixpoint of the abstract semantics equations representing the program. This is done in a single pass in a much more efficient process. ACC addresses the fundamental issues in PCC and opens the door to the applicability of the large body of frameworks and domains based on abstract interpretation as enabling technology for PCC. We present an overview of ACC and we describe in a tutorial fashion an application to the problem of resource-aware security in mobile code. Essentially the information computed by a cost analyzer is used to genérate cost certificates which attest a safe and efficient use of a mobile code. A receiving side can then reject code which brings cost certificates (which it cannot validate or) which have too large cost requirements in terms of computing resources (in time and/or space) and accept mobile code which meets the established requirements.

Program development using abstract interpretation (and the ciao system preprocessor)

The technique of Abstract Interpretation has allowed the development of very sophisticated global program analyses which are at the same time provably correct and practical. We present in a tutorial fashion a novel program development framework which uses abstract interpretation as a fundamental tool. The framework uses modular, incremental abstract interpretation to obtain information about the program. This information is used to validate programs, to detect bugs with respect to partial specifications written using assertions (in the program itself and/or in system librarles), to genérate and simplify run-time tests, and to perform high-level program transformations such as múltiple abstract specialization, parallelization, and resource usage control, all in a provably correct way. In the case of validation and debugging, the assertions can refer to a variety of program points such as procedure entry, procedure exit, points within procedures, or global computations. The system can reason with much richer information than, for example, traditional types. This includes data structure shape (including pointer sharing), bounds on data structure sizes, and other operational variable instantiation properties, as well as procedure-level properties such as determinacy, termination, non-failure, and bounds on resource consumption (time or space cost). CiaoPP, the preprocessor of the Ciao multi-paradigm programming system, which implements the described functionality, will be used to illustrate the fundamental ideas.

Program analysis, debugging and optimization using the ciao system preprocessor

We present a tutorial overview of Ciaopp, the Ciao system preprocessor. Ciao is a public-domain, next-generation logic programming system, which subsumes ISO-Prolog and is specifically designed to a) be highly extensible via librarles and b) support modular program analysis, debugging, and optimization. The latter tasks are performed in an integrated fashion by Ciaopp. Ciaopp uses modular, incremental abstract interpretation to infer properties of program predicates and literals, including types, variable instantiation properties (including modes), non-failure, determinacy, bounds on computational cost, bounds on sizes of terms in the program, etc. Using such analysis information, Ciaopp can find errors at compile-time in programs and/or perform partial verification. Ciaopp checks how programs cali system librarles and also any assertions present in the program or in other modules used by the program. These assertions are also used to genérate documentation automatically. Ciaopp also uses analysis information to perform program transformations and optimizations such as múltiple abstract specialization, parallelization (including granularity control), and optimization of run-time tests for properties which cannot be checked completely at compile-time. We illustrate "hands-on" the use of Ciaopp in all these tasks. By design, Ciaopp is a generic tool, which can be easily tailored to perform these and other tasks for different LP and CLP dialects.

A tutorial on program development and optimization using the Ciao preprocessor

We present in a tutorial fashion CiaoPP, the preprocessor of the Ciao multi-paradigm programming system, which implements a novel program development framework which uses abstract interpretation as a fundamental tool. The framework uses modular, incremental abstract interpretation to obtain information about the program. This information is used to validate programs, to detect bugs with respect to partial specifications written using assertions (in the program itself and/or in system libraries), to generate and simplify run-time tests, and to perform high-level program transformations such as multiple abstract specialization, parallelization, and resource usage control, all in a provably correct way. In the case of validation and debugging, the assertions can refer to a variety of program points such as procedure entry, procedure exit, points within procedures, or global computations. The system can reason with much richer information than, for example, traditional types. This includes data structure shape (including pointer sharing), bounds on data structure sizes, and other operational variable instantiation properties, as well as procedure-level properties such as determinacy, termination, non-failure, and bounds on resource consumption (time or space cost).

Seismic Risk Scenarios in Puerto Principe (Haiti). A Tool for Reconstruction and Emergency Planning

The 12 January 2010, an earthquake hit the city of Port-au-Prince, capital of Haiti. The earthquake reached a magnitude Mw 7.0 and the epicenter was located near the town of Léogâne, approximately 25 km west of the capital. The earthquake occurred in the boundary region separating the Caribbean plate and the North American plate. This plate boundary is dominated by left-lateral strike slip motion and compression, and accommodates about 20 mm/y slip, with the Caribbean plate moving eastward with respect to the North American plate (DeMets et al., 2000). Initially the location and focal mechanism of the earthquake seemed to involve straightforward accommodation of oblique relative motion between the Caribbean and North American plates along the Enriquillo-Plantain Garden fault system (EPGFZ), however Hayes et al., (2010) combined seismological observations, geologic field data and space geodetic measurements to show that, instead, the rupture process involved slip on multiple faults. Besides, the authors showed that remaining shallow shear strain will be released in future surface-rupturing earthquakes on the EPGFZ. In December 2010, a Spanish cooperation project financed by the Politechnical University of Madrid started with a clear objective: Evaluation of seismic hazard and risk in Haiti and its application to the seismic design, urban planning, emergency and resource management. One of the tasks of the project was devoted to vulnerability assessment of the current building stock and the estimation of seismic risk scenarios. The study was carried out by following the capacity spectrum method as implemented in the software SELENA (Molina et al., 2010). The method requires a detailed classification of the building stock in predominant building typologies (according to the materials in the structure and walls, number of stories and age of construction) and the use of the building (residential, commercial, etc.). Later, the knowledge of the soil characteristics of the city and the simulation of a scenario earthquake will provide the seismic risk scenarios (damaged buildings). The initial results of the study show that one of the highest sources of uncertainties comes from the difficulty of achieving a precise building typologies classification due to the craft construction without any regulations. Also it is observed that although the occurrence of big earthquakes usually helps to decrease the vulnerability of the cities due to the collapse of low quality buildings and the reconstruction of seismically designed buildings, in the case of Port-au-Prince the seismic risk in most of the districts remains high, showing very vulnerable areas. Therefore the local authorities have to drive their efforts towards the quality control of the new buildings, the reinforcement of the existing building stock, the establishment of seismic normatives and the development of emergency planning also through the education of the population.

Robustness and Recoverability in Transport Logistics

Abstract Transport is the foundation of any economy: it boosts economic growth, creates wealth, enhances trade, geographical accessibility and the mobility of people. Transport is also a key ingredient for a high quality of life, making places accessible and bringing people together. The future prosperity of our world will depend on the ability of all of its regions to remain fully and competitively integrated in the world economy. Efficient transport is vital in making this happen. Operations research can help in efficiently planning the design and operating transport systems. Planning and operational processes are fields that are rich in combinatorial optimization problems. These problems can be analyzed and solved through the application of mathematical models and optimization techniques, which may lead to an improvement in the performance of the transport system, as well as to a reduction in the time required for solving these problems. The latter aspect is important, because it increases the flexibility of the system: the system can adapt in a faster way to changes in the environment (i.e.: weather conditions, crew illness, failures, etc.). These disturbing changes (called disruptions) often enforce the schedule to be adapted. The direct consequences are delays and cancellations, implying many schedule adjustments and huge costs. Consequently, robust schedules and recovery plans must be developed in order to fight against disruptions. This dissertation makes contributions to two different fields: rail and air applications. Robust planning and recovery methods are presented. In the field of railway transport we develop several mathematical models which answer to RENFE’s (the major railway operator in Spain) needs: 1. We study the rolling stock assignment problem: here, we introduce some robust aspects in order to ameliorate some operations which are likely to fail. Once the rolling stock assignment is known, we propose a robust routing model which aims at identifying the train units’ sequences while minimizing the expected delays and human resources needed to perform the sequences. 2. It is widely accepted that the sequential solving approach produces solutions that are not global optima. Therefore, we develop an integrated and robust model to determine the train schedule and rolling stock assignment. We also propose an integrated model to study the rolling stock circulations. Circulations are determined by the rolling stock assignment and routing of the train units. 3. Although our aim is to develop robust plans, disruptions will be likely to occur and recovery methods will be needed. Therefore, we propose a recovery method which aims to recover the train schedule and rolling stock assignment in an integrated fashion all while considering the passenger demand. In the field of air transport we develop several mathematical models which answer to IBERIA’s (the major airline in Spain) needs: 1. We look at the airline-scheduling problem and develop an integrated approach that optimizes schedule design, fleet assignment and passenger use so as to reduce costs and create fewer incompatibilities between decisions. Robust itineraries are created to ameliorate misconnected passengers. 2. Air transport operators are continuously facing competition from other air operators and different modes of transport (e.g., High Speed Rail). Consequently, airline profitability is critically influenced by the airline’s ability to estimate passenger demands and construct profitable flight schedules. We consider multi-modal competition including airline and rail, and develop a new approach that estimates the demand associated with a given schedule; and generates airline schedules and fleet assignments using an integrated schedule design and fleet assignment optimization model that captures the impacts of schedule decisions on passenger demand.