Storm evolution characterization for analysing stone armour damage progression

Storm evolution is fundamental for analysing the damage progression of the different failure modes and establishing suitable protocols for maintaining and optimally sizing structures. However, this aspect has hardly been studied and practically the whole of the studies dealing with the subject adopt the Equivalent triangle storm. As against this approach, two new ones are proposed. The first is the Equivalent Triangle Magnitude Storm model (ETMS), whose base, the triangular storm duration, D, is established such that its magnitude (area describing the storm history above the reference threshold level which sets the storm condition),HT, equals the real storm magnitude. The other is the Equivalent Triangle Number of Waves Storm (ETNWS), where the base is referred in terms of the real storm's number of waves,Nz. Three approaches are used for estimating the mean period, Tm, associated to each of the sea states defining the storm evolution, which is necessary to determine the full energy flux withstood by the structure in the course of the extreme event. Two are based on the Jonswap spectrum representativity and the other uses the bivariate Gumbel copula (Hs, Tm), resulting from adjusting the storm peaks. The representativity of the approaches proposed and those defined in specialised literature are analysed by comparing the main armour layer's progressive loss of hydraulic stability caused by real storms and that relating to theoretical ones. An empirical maximum energy flux model is used for this purpose. The agreement between the empirical and theoretical results demonstrates that the representativity of the different approaches depends on the storm characteristics and point towards a need to investigate other geometrical shapes to characterise the storm evolution associated with sea states heavily influenced by swell wave components.

Analysis of the influence of the different variables involved in a damage progression probability model

Motivated by these difficulties, Castillo et al. (2012) made some suggestions on how to build consistent stochastic models avoiding the selection of easy to use mathematical functions, which were replaced by those resulting from a set of properties to be satisfied by the model.

Offshore stereo measurements of gravity waves

Stereo video techniques are effective for estimating the space-time wave dynamics over an area of the ocean. Indeed, a stereo camera view allows retrieval of both spatial and temporal data whose statistical content is richer than that of time series data retrieved from point wave probes. To prove this, we consider an application of the Wave Acquisition Stereo System (WASS) for the analysis of offshore video measurements of gravity waves in the Northern Adriatic Sea. In particular, we deployed WASS at the oceanographic platform Acqua Alta, off the Venice coast, Italy. Three experimental studies were performed, and the overlapping field of view of the acquired stereo images covered an area of approximately 1100 m2. Analysis of the WASS measurements show that the sea surface can be accurately estimated in space and time together, yielding associated directional spectra and wave statistics that agree well with theoretical models. From the observed wavenumber-frequency spectrum one can also predict the vertical profile of the current flow underneath the wave surface. Finally, future improvements of WASS and applications are discussed.

Lugares adecuados para la utilización de nuevos materiales y formas con geotextiles en la gestión integral de la zona litoral como protección ambiental

La erosión costera es un fenómeno que ha cobrado importancia durante los últimos años, debido a sus repercusiones tanto en el turismo, como en el incremento de riesgo para las infraestructuras y para la población allí ubicada. Se define como el retroceso progresivo de la línea de costa cuyas causas pueden ser de origen natural o antropogénicas. La costa merece la máxima protección, y su gestión debe asegurar su integridad física y su libre acceso, al igual que un uso público por parte de todos. En este horizonte, la reducción de costes, la facilidad de construcción y velocidad de realización, las obras de geotextil se han mostrado como una alternativa muy seria a las obras duras u obras clásicas, tradicionalmente realizadas a lo largo de las costas. Pero esta alternativa de uso conlleva un mayor conocimiento en el comportamiento de éstas, su diseño y durabilidad. Las obras de geotextil, como su nombre indica, se realizan con elementos tridimensionales de geotextil (cosidos o no cosidos) rellenos de arena. Estos elementos se pueden considerar innovadores, económicos, ecológicos y alternativos frente a los tradicionales. Se distinguen tres tipos denominados: sacos, tubos y contenedores. El principal objetivo de esta tesis se centra en la determinación de las zonas de la costa apropiados para la utilización de estructuras compuestas de elementos de geotextil rellenos de arena, como obras de defensa de costas, con el fin de facilitar su uso en la ingeniería de costas. Para ello se ha clasificado tanto las distintas zonas del perfil longitudinal de una playa, como los tipos de costa en función de la variable altura de ola significante. Se han determinado las limitaciones de esta variable en las distintas fórmulas de estabilidad de estas estructuras. Y finalmente, en función de la máxima limitación de altura de ola significante y de sus posibles valores en las zonas y tipos de costa, se han determinado las zonas más apropiadas para el uso de las estructuras compuestas por elementos de geotextil. Finalmente se han redactado las conclusiones de la investigación y se han propuesto nuevas líneas de investigación relacionadas con esta Tesis Doctoral. Coastal erosion is a phenomenon that has become more important in recent years because of its impact on both on tourism, and increased risk to infrastructure and the population located there. It is defined as the gradual decline in the coastline whose causes may be natural or anthropogenic origin. The coast deserves maximum protection, and management should ensure their physical integrity and their free access, as well as public use by all. In this line, cost reduction, ease of construction and completion rate, geotextile works have been shown as a very serious to hard works or classics alternative, traditionally performed along the coasts. But this alternative use entails greater insight into the behaviour of these, design and durability. Works of geotextile, as its name suggests, are made with three-dimensional elements of geotextile (sewn or stitched) filled with sand. These items can be considered innovative, economic, and ecological alternative compared to traditional. Bags, tubes and containers, three known types are distinguished. The main objective of this thesis focuses on determining the appropriate areas of the coast for the use of composite structures of elements filled geotextile sand as coastal defence works, in order to facilitate their use, in coastal engineering. For it, has been classified by both the different areas of the longitudinal profile of a beach as the shoreline types depending on the variable significant wave height. We have determined the limitations of this variable in the different formulas stability of these structures. And finally, depending on the maximum limitation of significant wave height and its possible values in the areas and types of coastline, have determined the most appropriate for use in structures composed of elements of geotextile areas. Finally, the conclusions of the research have been addressed and the proposal of new lines of work related to the topic has been made.

Improvement of theoretical storm characterization for different climate conditions

The different theoretical models related with storm wave characterization focus on determining the significant wave height of the peak storm, the mean period and, usually assuming a triangle storm shape, their duration. In some cases, the main direction is also considered. Nevertheless, definition of the whole storm history, including the variation of the main random variables during the storm cycle is not taken into consideration. The representativeness of the proposed storm models, analysed in a recent study using an empirical maximum energy flux time dependent function shows that the behaviour of the different storm models is extremely dependent on the climatic characteristics of the project area. Moreover, there are no theoretical models able to adequately reproduce storm history evolution of the sea states characterized by important swell components. To overcome this shortcoming, several theoretical storm shapes are investigated taking into consideration the bases of the three best theoretical storm models, the Equivalent Magnitude Storm (EMS), the Equivalent Number of Waves Storm (ENWS) and the Equivalent Duration Storm (EDS) models. To analyse the representativeness of the new storm shape, the aforementioned maximum energy flux formulation and a wave overtopping discharge structure function are used. With the empirical energy flux formulation, correctness of the different approaches is focussed on the progressive hydraulic stability loss of the main armour layer caused by real and theoretical storms. For the overtopping structure equation, the total volume of discharge is considered. In all cases, the results obtained highlight the greater representativeness of the triangular EMS model for sea waves and the trapezoidal (nonparallel sides) EMS model for waves with a higher degree of wave development. Taking into account the increase in offshore and shallow water wind turbines, maritime transport and deep vertical breakwaters, the maximum wave height of the whole storm history and that corresponding to each sea state belonging to its cycle's evolution is also considered. The procedure considers the information usually available for extreme waves' characterization. Extrapolations of the maximum wave height of the selected storms have also been considered. The 4th order statistics of the sea state belonging to the real and theoretical storm have been estimated to complete the statistical analysis of individual wave height

Coastal Impacts Around Guadiaro River Mouth (Spain)

The “Port of Sotogrande” Beach (San Roque, Cadiz, Spain) has suffered significant erosion and changes since the construction of the marina and port of Sotogrande (San Roque, Cadiz, Spain). This paper reviews the dynamical processes on Guadiaro front and establishes relationship between them. It sets from a comparative evolution of the Alboran Sea Coast outlets and bays since the Little Ice Age, which shows that the Guadiaro estuary has remained functional while all other Alboran fluvial estuaries silted to son. The study shows the evidences of the coastal impacts around the mouth, even further than mouth littoral barriers, of the port infrastructures; and it provides new elements to understand the dynamical processes on the mouth and surroundings as well. That should be fundamental for shore protection along the whole coastal stretch

Effects of Climate Change on Coastal Evolution

Climate determines coastal morphology through sea level and coastal processes, which are mainly steered by wind waves except in tidal inlets. They manage to erode coasts and transport their sediments if available. Coastal morphodynamic is so the result of its dialectic answers and it witness of wave direction and the whole climate through cyclone latitudes. This paper tries to approach the long term coastal processes and the trends of sedimentary coasts answer