A numerical model for predicting shoreline changes /

A mathematical model for long-term, three-dimensional shoreline evolution is developed. The combined effects of variations of sea level; wave refraction and diffraction; loss of sand by density currents during storms, by rip currents, and by wind; bluff erosion and berm accretion; effects of manmade structures such as long groin or navigational structures; and beach nourishment are all taken into account. A computer program is developed with various subroutines which permit modification as the state-of-the-art progresses. The program is applied to a test case at Holland Harbor, Michigan. (Author).

Analysis of coastal sediment transport processes from Wrightsville Beach to Fort Fisher, North Carolina /

A comprehensive engineering analysis of the coastal sediment transport processes along a 42-kilometer segment of the North Carolina shoreline from Wrightsville Beach to Fort Fisher is presented. Included in the analysis is an interpretation of the littoral processes, longshore transport, and the behavior and success of beach nourishment projects at Wrightsville Beach and Carolina Beach, North Carolina. The historical position of the MLW, MSL, and MHW contours, relative to a fixed base line, is plotted for the period between 1964 and 1975. An equivalent volumetric erosion or accretion between successive surveys is determined by multiplying the average excursion distance of the contours by a constant of proportionality. The plots of excursion distance versus time for the MLW, MSL, and MHW contours also show the time response of the beach fills. This response is described by a mathematical function. The alongshore components of wave-induced energy flux are also determined within the study area through wave refraction analysis. This information, together with the information on volumetric change, is used in a sediment budget analysis to determine the coefficient of alongshore sediment transport and the inlet trapping characteristics. (Author).

Benthic fauna of an offshore borrow area in Broward County, Florida /

Benthic fauna from two stations within a 5-year-old borrow area and two control stations off Hillsboro Beach (Broward County), Florida, were sampled quarterly from June 1977 to March 1978 to evaluate the long-term impact of offshore dredging. Generally enhanced productivities occurred within the borrow area, although there was much seasonal variation among stations. Species diversities were usually higher at the borrow stations than at the control stations. The single exception was due to a high concentration of the bivalve E. nitens at one of the control stations in June. Although faunal similarity analysis revealed a qualitative change in the fauna of the borrow area, this change is not considered detrimental. Conspicuous patterns of heterogeneous faunal distributions were evident in this study, particularly for the bivalve E. nitens. No lasting detrimental effects, in terms of numbers of species, faunal densities, or species diversity, resulted from the dredging operation. (Author).

Benthic community response to dredging borrow pits, Panama City Beach, Florida /

This report gives biological and physical oceanographic data from baseline work, and studies of dredged and undredged sediments before and after dredging (9-meter contour) for beach nourishment at Panama City Beach, Florida. These studies were designed to show major short-term environmental effects of offshore dredging and included analyses of hydrology, sediments, and benthos. (Author).

Effects of beach nourishment on the nearshore environment in Lake Huron at Lexington Harbor (Michigan) /

In October 1980 the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers conducted a beach nourishment project at the Lexington (Michigan) Harbor on the southwest shore of Lake Huron, a project designed to mitigate beach erosion attributable to the installation of the harbor. In response to a request from the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC), the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service's Great Lakes Fishery Laboratory conducted a Corps-funded study from June 1980 to October 1981 along a 8.4-kilometer segment of shoreline adjacent to the harbor to determine the effect of the Corps' beach nourishment project on the nearshore aquatic environment. The study performed by the service included aerial photographic surveys of the study area; measurement of dissolved oxygen, turbidity, and suspended particulate matter levels; and collection of lake bottom sediments, macrozoobenthos and fish. Analysis of the aerial photographs showed that the beach face profile changed markedly during the study as a result of beach nourishment. Dredging of about 19,000 cubic meters of beach sediment from an accretion area adjacent to the harbor's north breakwater caused the beach face to recede, while deposition of this sediment on a feeder beach south of the harbor caused the beach face there to extend lakeward.

Interaction of waves and currents /

This report presents an overview of wave-current interacion, including comprehensive review of references to significant U.S. and foreign literature available through December 1981. Specific topics under review are the effects of horizontally and vertically varying currents on waves, wave refraction by currents, dissipation and turbulence, small- and medium-scale currents, caustics and focusing, and wave breaking. The results of the review are then examined for engineering applications. The most appropriate general-purpose computer program to include wave-current interaction is the Dutch Rijkswaterstaat program CREDIZ, which is based on a parabolic wave equation. Further applications include wave and current forces on structures and possibly sediment transport. The report concludes with a brief state-of-the-art review of wave-current interaction and a list of topics needing further research and development.

Annotated bibliography on wave-current interaction /

This annotated bibliography discusses 60 key publications dealing with wave-current interaction. Each entry includes a bibliographic identification, keywords, a discussion of contents, and a statement of coastal engineering significance. An index of the entries by keywords is provided in an appendix. The recent growth of the wave-current interaction field is indicated by the fact that more than 30 percent of the selected publications were published in 1978 and 1979. (Author).

Posthurricane survey of experimental dunes on Padre Island, Texas /

This report summarizes the impact of Hurricane Allen (August 1980) on dune configuration, sand accretion or erosion, and changes in the vegetation on north Padre Island. Four experimental foredunes, the result of grass plantings from 1969 to 1973, and an unplanted control section were monitored in 1975-1977 and also in 1981. The 1981 posthurricane data were compared where possilbe, with the previous studies. Foredune elevation surveys were completed in March 1981; accompanying vegetation transects were made in July 1981. Hurrican Allen causes erosion of the dune face of all the experimental dunes, but caused a breach in only one dune. The beach elevations had returned to approximately prehurricane heights by the time the area was resurveyed. The unplanted control dune provided little resistance to waves generated by the storm and a large quantity of sand was deposited inland.

Beach changes at Holden Beach, North Carolina, 1970-74 /

Beach profile lines at 21 near-evenly spaced intervals along Holden Beach, North Carolina, between Lockwoods Folly and Shallotte Inlets, were measured from November 1970 to December 1974. These have been analyzed to determine the spatial and temporal variabilities on long-term, seasonal, and short-term scales. Profile lines near the inlets showed the greatest variability in mean sea level (MSL) position, above MSL volume, foreshore slope, and profile envelope. This variability near Lockwoods Folly Inlet was partly enhanced by artificial nourishment at profile line 2. Temporary, low-cost shore protection devices (e.g., sandbag groins) were constructed near that inlet during part of the study. No other modifications or activities that affected beach processes were known to occur during the study period. The central part of Holden Beach was studied separately because of the high variability of the inlet sections at either end of the island. Foreshore slopes along this reach increased from an average of 1:30 at the east end to 1:17 at the west. A seasonal change in above MSL volume indicates loss of sand during autumn and winter, and gain during spring and summer. Changes in MSL shoreline intercept and above MSL volume were highly variable during the study.

An annotated bibliography of CERC coastal ecology research /

Includes indexes.

Instrumentation at CERC's Field Research Facility, Duck, North Carolina /

"October 1980."

A user's guide to CERC's Field Research Facility /

"October 1981."

Beach fauna study of the CERC Field Research Facility, Duck, North Carolina /

Issued April 1977.

An annotated bibliography of CERC coastal ecology research /

Includes indexes.

CERC Field Research Facility environmental data summary, 1977-79 /

"December 1982."