5 resultados para COASTAL REGIONS

em University of Michigan


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Mode of access: Internet.

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This annotated bibliography discusses 60 key publications dealing with wave-current interaction. Each entry includes a bibliographic identification, keywords, a discussion of contents, and a statement of coastal engineering significance. An index of the entries by keywords is provided in an appendix. The recent growth of the wave-current interaction field is indicated by the fact that more than 30 percent of the selected publications were published in 1978 and 1979. (Author).

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Beach profile lines at 21 near-evenly spaced intervals along Holden Beach, North Carolina, between Lockwoods Folly and Shallotte Inlets, were measured from November 1970 to December 1974. These have been analyzed to determine the spatial and temporal variabilities on long-term, seasonal, and short-term scales. Profile lines near the inlets showed the greatest variability in mean sea level (MSL) position, above MSL volume, foreshore slope, and profile envelope. This variability near Lockwoods Folly Inlet was partly enhanced by artificial nourishment at profile line 2. Temporary, low-cost shore protection devices (e.g., sandbag groins) were constructed near that inlet during part of the study. No other modifications or activities that affected beach processes were known to occur during the study period. The central part of Holden Beach was studied separately because of the high variability of the inlet sections at either end of the island. Foreshore slopes along this reach increased from an average of 1:30 at the east end to 1:17 at the west. A seasonal change in above MSL volume indicates loss of sand during autumn and winter, and gain during spring and summer. Changes in MSL shoreline intercept and above MSL volume were highly variable during the study.

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The development of sand ripples in an oscillatory-flow water tunnel was observed in 104 laboratory experiments approximating conditions at the seabed under steady progressive surface waves. The period, T, and amplitude, a, of the water motion were varied over wide ranges. Three quartz sands were used, with mean grain diameters, D = 0.55, 0.21, and 0.18 millimeter. In 24 experiments, with the bed initially leveled, T was reduced until ripples appeared, and their development to final equilibrium form was observed without further change in T. The remaining 80 experiments investigated the response of previously established bed forms to changes in T or a or both. The ripple length, lambda, and height, eta, were measured from photos, except when bed forms were three dimensional.