Prediction of wave refraction and shoaling using two numerical models /

"August 1981."

Development of a method for numerical calculation of wave refraction /

"October 1964."

Wave refraction phenomena over the continental shelf near the Chesapeake Bay entrance /

"October 1974."

The interpretation of crossed orthogonals in wave refraction phenomena.

Mode of access: Internet.

A ripple tank study of wave refraction /

Mode of access: Internet.

Analysis of coastal sediment transport processes from Wrightsville Beach to Fort Fisher, North Carolina /

A comprehensive engineering analysis of the coastal sediment transport processes along a 42-kilometer segment of the North Carolina shoreline from Wrightsville Beach to Fort Fisher is presented. Included in the analysis is an interpretation of the littoral processes, longshore transport, and the behavior and success of beach nourishment projects at Wrightsville Beach and Carolina Beach, North Carolina. The historical position of the MLW, MSL, and MHW contours, relative to a fixed base line, is plotted for the period between 1964 and 1975. An equivalent volumetric erosion or accretion between successive surveys is determined by multiplying the average excursion distance of the contours by a constant of proportionality. The plots of excursion distance versus time for the MLW, MSL, and MHW contours also show the time response of the beach fills. This response is described by a mathematical function. The alongshore components of wave-induced energy flux are also determined within the study area through wave refraction analysis. This information, together with the information on volumetric change, is used in a sediment budget analysis to determine the coefficient of alongshore sediment transport and the inlet trapping characteristics. (Author).

A numerical model for predicting shoreline changes /

A mathematical model for long-term, three-dimensional shoreline evolution is developed. The combined effects of variations of sea level; wave refraction and diffraction; loss of sand by density currents during storms, by rip currents, and by wind; bluff erosion and berm accretion; effects of manmade structures such as long groin or navigational structures; and beach nourishment are all taken into account. A computer program is developed with various subroutines which permit modification as the state-of-the-art progresses. The program is applied to a test case at Holland Harbor, Michigan. (Author).

Interaction of waves and currents /

This report presents an overview of wave-current interacion, including comprehensive review of references to significant U.S. and foreign literature available through December 1981. Specific topics under review are the effects of horizontally and vertically varying currents on waves, wave refraction by currents, dissipation and turbulence, small- and medium-scale currents, caustics and focusing, and wave breaking. The results of the review are then examined for engineering applications. The most appropriate general-purpose computer program to include wave-current interaction is the Dutch Rijkswaterstaat program CREDIZ, which is based on a parabolic wave equation. Further applications include wave and current forces on structures and possibly sediment transport. The report concludes with a brief state-of-the-art review of wave-current interaction and a list of topics needing further research and development.

Simplified method for estimating refraction and shoaling effects on ocean waves /

"November 1975."