与黑素生成相关的生化指标测定为主的美白评价体系的初建

近年来，随着黑素细胞生物学的发展和对美白剂功效研究的不断深入，美白剂对皮肤正常生理潜在的负面影响正逐渐为人们所重视 ，仅仅通过临床皮肤敏感试验已远不能给以科学的解释，因而建立一个科学量化的美白剂评价体系就显得尤为迫切和必要。本文工 作旨在将体外黑素细胞原代培养与黑素生成相关的生化指标（包括：黑度，细胞量，铬氨酸酶TYR，多巴色素异构酶DT酶活的）， 检测相结合，并联系细胞学观察，从而形成一整套相对完善，定性定量的研究美白剂功效的评价体系。通过测定外加a-MSH,内皮素 ET-1及其拮抗剂GD2168后黑素细胞内上述生化指标的变化，不仅验证了a-MSH，内皮素ET-1的促黑作用，内皮素拮抗剂GD2168的美 白功效，而且还体现出本评价体系不同于国内现有的其它美白评价体系的独特优势。首先，本评价体系在国内为首家将原代培养的 黑素细胞用于美白评价，由于原代培养环境与体内皮肤生理环境的相似性，在体外对10-8mol/La-MSH产生了正常的应答，所以在评 价美白剂的功效时该培养体较之将黑素细胞孤立生长的纯化培养体系更为科学也更具有说服力。尤其值得一提的是，国内现有的生 化水平的美白评价多局限于对TYR活力的测定，而本体系的另一特点就是除了TYR外还增加了对TRP-2即DT酶活的测定，由于DT在维 持正常黑素细胞及皮肤生理上的重要意义，对其变化的研究往往可揭示出美白剂对皮肤的潜在毒性，本文通过测定并分析内皮素拮 抗剂GD2168对体外黑素细胞DT活力的下调作用，对其潜在的副作用进行了科学的预测，这项工作国内尚无人开展。Over the past few years, melanin cell research has experienced unprecedent impetus, which also contribute to the study on lightener's function especially it's potent skin damage. As a result, it's the high time to build a more accurate and complete evaluation system to investigate lightener's effects and by-effects as well. After normal human melanocytes were cultured primarily in vitro, the effects of a-MSH, endothelin-1(ET-1)and ET -1's antagonist GD2168 on melanogenesis were studied biochemically by measurement of melanin content, cell-number, tyrosinaseTYR activity and dopachrome tautomeraseDT activity. Compared with untreated cells, the treated cells responsed to 10-8mol/L a-MSH with the increase in all items. ET-1 induced both an increae in DT activity and melanin concent; however, the melanosynthesis increase was inhibited significantly in the present of GD2168. Trough above work, a new evaluation system of lightener has been established and confirmed to be feasible. Different from other evaluation systems present in country, this system used the primary culture, which was more consistent to the physiological circumstance. Moreover, the system added DT activity assay that help reveal the GD2168's potent side-effects, which would have been clouded or ignored if only TYR activity was assayed.