Integrated coastal geoengineering approach for maritime environments

This dissertation introduces several methodological approaches which integrate a proposed coastal management model in an interdisciplinary perspective. The research presented herein is displayed as a set of publications comprising different thematic outlooks. The thesis develops an integrated coastal geoengineering approach which is intrinsically linked to the studied maritime environments. From sandy coasts and marine works to rocky platforms and sea cliffs, this study includes field work between Caminha – Figueira da Foz (NW Portugal) and Galicia (NW Spain). The research also involves an analysis and geological-geotechnical characterisation of natural rock (armourstone) and artificial units (concrete blocks) applied to coastal structures. The main goal is to contribute to the characterisation and re-evaluation of georesources and to determine armourstone suitability and availability from its source (quarry). It was also important to diagnose the geomaterials in situ concerning their degradation/deterioration level on the basis of the current status of the coastal protection works in order to facilitate more efficient monitoring and maintenance, with economic benefits. In the rocky coast approach the coastal blocks were studied along the platform, but also the geoforms were studied from a coastal morphodynamics point of view. A shoreline evolution analysis was developed for sandy coasts through Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) extension. In addition, the spatial and statistical analysis applied to sea cliffs allowed the establishment of susceptibility zones to erosion and hazardous areas. All of these studies have different purposes and results however, there is a common denominator – GIS mapping. Hence, apart from the studied coastal environment, there is an integrated system which includes a sequence of procedures and methodologies that persisted during the research period. This is a step forward in the study of different coastal environments by using almost the same methodologies. This will allow the characterisation, monitoring and assessment of coastal protection works, rocky coasts, and shore platforms. With such data, it is possible to propose or recommend strategies for coastal and shoreline management based on several justifications in terms of social, economic, and environmental questions, or even provide a GIS-based planning support system reinforced by geocartographic decisions. Overall the development of the applied cartography embraces six stages which will allow the production of detailed maps of the maritime environment: (1) high-resolution aerial imagery surveys; (2) visual inspection and systematic monitoring; (3) applied field datasheet; (4) in situ evaluation; (5) scanline surveying; and (6) GIS mapping. This thesis covers fundamental matters that were developed over the course of scientific publication and as a consequence they represent the results obtained and discussed. The subjects directly related to the thesis architecture are: (i) cartography applied to coastal dynamics (including an art historical analysis as a tool to comprehend the coastal evolution and the littoral zone); (ii) georesources assessment (the role of cartography in georesources zoning, assessment and armourstone durability); (iii) coastal geoengineering applications and monitoring (Espinho pilot site in NW Portugal as an experimental field); (iv) rocky coast and shore platform studies and characterisation; (v) sandy and mixed environment approaches; (vi) coastal geosciences GIS mapping and photogrammetric surveying (coastal geoengineering); and (vii) shoreline change mapping and coastal management strategies (the CartGalicia Project as an example – NW Spain). Finally, all of these thematic areas were crucial to generate the conceptual models proposed and to shape the future of integrated coastal coastal geoengineering management.

Seasonal variation in nitrification and nitrate-reduction pathways in coastal sediments in the Gulf of Finland, Baltic Sea

The Baltic Sea is one of the most eutrophic marine areas in the world. The role of nitrogen as a eutrophicating nutrient in the Baltic Sea has remained controversial, due to lack of understanding of nitrogen cycling in the area. We investigated the seasonal variation in sediment nitrification, denitrification, anaerobic ammonium oxidation (anammox), and dissimilatory nitrate reduction to ammonium (DNRA) at two coastal sites in the Gulf of Finland. In addition to the in situ rates, we assessed the potential for these processes in different seasons. The nitrification and nitrogen removal processes were maximal during the warm summer months, when the sediment organic content was highest. In colder seasons, the in situ rates of the nitrification and nitrate reduction processes decreased, but the potential for nitrification remained equal to or higher than that during the warm months. The denitrification and nitrification rates were usually higher in the accumulation basin, where the organic content of the sediment was higher, but the transportation area, despite lower denitrification rates and potential, typically had higher potential for nitrification than the accumulation basin. Anammox and DNRA were not significant nitrate sinks in any of the seasons sampled. The results also show that the denitrification rates in the coastal Gulf of Finland sediment have decreased, and that benthic denitrification might be a less important sink for fixed nitrogen than previously assumed.

Tidally induced upwelling off Yangtze River estuary and in Zhejiang coastal waters in summer

MASNUM wave-tide-circulation coupled numerical model (MASNUM coupled model, hereinafter) is developed based on the Princeton Ocean Model (POM). Both POM and MASNUM coupled model are applied in the numerical simulation of the upwelling off Yangtze River estuary and in Zhejiang coastal waters in summer. The upwelling mechanisms are analyzed from the viewpoint of tide, and a new mechanism is proposed. The study suggests that the tidally inducing mechanism of the upwelling includes two dynamic aspects: the barotropic and the baroclinic process. On the one hand, the residual currents induced by barotropic tides converge near the seabed, and upwelling is generated to maintain mass conservation. The climbing of the residual currents along the sea bottom slope also contributes to the upwelling. On the other hand, tidal mixing plays a very important role in inducing the upwelling in the baroclinic sea circumstances. Strong tidal mixing leads to conspicuous front in the coastal waters. The considerable horizontal density gradient across the front elicits a secondary circulation clinging to the tidal front, and the upwelling branch appears near the frontal zone. Numerical experiments are designed to determine the importance of tide in inducing the upwelling. The results indicate that tide is a key and dominant inducement of the upwelling. Experiments also show that coupling calculation of the four main tidal constituents(M-2, S-2, K-1, and O-1), rather than dealing with the single M-2 constituent, improves the modeling precision of the barotropic tide-induced upwelling.

An ECOOP web portal for visualising and comparing distributed coastal oceanography model and in situ data

As part of a large European coastal operational oceanography project (ECOOP), we have developed a web portal for the display and comparison of model and in situ marine data. The distributed model and in situ datasets are accessed via an Open Geospatial Consortium Web Map Service (WMS) and Web Feature Service (WFS) respectively. These services were developed independently and readily integrated for the purposes of the ECOOP project, illustrating the ease of interoperability resulting from adherence to international standards. The key feature of the portal is the ability to display co-plotted timeseries of the in situ and model data and the quantification of misfits between the two. By using standards-based web technology we allow the user to quickly and easily explore over twenty model data feeds and compare these with dozens of in situ data feeds without being concerned with the low level details of differing file formats or the physical location of the data. Scientific and operational benefits to this work include model validation, quality control of observations, data assimilation and decision support in near real time. In these areas it is essential to be able to bring different data streams together from often disparate locations.

Flood Risk Assessment in Coastal Drainage Basins through a Multivariate Analysis within a GIS-Based Model

This paper presents a GIS-based multicriteria flood risk assessment and mapping approach applied to coastal drainage basins where hydrological data are not available. It involves risk to different types of possible processes: coastal inundation (storm surge), river, estuarine and flash flood, either at urban or natural areas, and fords. Based on the causes of these processes, several environmental indicators were taken to build-up the risk assessment. Geoindicators include geological-geomorphologic proprieties of Quaternary sedimentary units, water table, drainage basin morphometry, coastal dynamics, beach morphodynamics and microclimatic characteristics. Bioindicators involve coastal plain and low slope native vegetation categories and two alteration states. Anthropogenic indicators encompass land use categories properties such as: type, occupation density, urban structure type and occupation consolidation degree. The selected indicators were stored within an expert Geoenvironmental Information System developed for the State of Sao Paulo Coastal Zone (SIIGAL), which attributes were mathematically classified through deterministic approaches, in order to estimate natural susceptibilities (Sn), human-induced susceptibilities (Sa), return period of rain events (Ri), potential damages (Dp) and the risk classification (R), according to the equation R=(Sn.Sa.Ri).Dp. Thematic maps were automatically processed within the SIIGAL, in which automata cells (""geoenvironmental management units"") aggregating geological-geomorphologic and land use/native vegetation categories were the units of classification. The method has been applied to the Northern Littoral of the State of Sao Paulo (Brazil) in 32 small drainage basins, demonstrating to be very useful for coastal zone public politics, civil defense programs and flood management.

The development of blowouts and foredunes in the Ilha Comprida barrier (Southeastern Brazil): the influence of Late Holocene climate changes on coastal sedimentation

Middle to Late Holocene barriers are conspicuous landforms in southeastern and southern Brazilian regions. The barriers in the coastal zones of northern Santa Catarina, Parana and Sao Paulo states (27 degrees 19`-24 degrees 00`S) are formed mainly by beach ridge alignments and many barriers present foredune and blowout alignments in their seaward portion. The development of these eolian landforms appears to record a regional shift in coastal dynamics and barrier building. In this context, the Ilha Comprida barrier stands out for its well-developed and well-preserved foredunes and blowouts. Based on the presence or not and type of eolian landforms, the Ilha Comprida barrier can be divided seaward into inner, middle and outer units. The inner unit is formed entirely by beach ridges. The middle unit comprises a narrow belt of blowouts (up to 15 m high) aligned alongshore. Blowout lobes pointing NNW are indicative of their generation by southern winds. The outer unit is represented by low (<= 1 m high) active or stabilized foredunes and a small transgressive dunefield (similar to 1 km(2)). Twenty-seven luminescence ages (SAR protocol) obtained for the beach ridges, foredunes, and blowouts of these three units allow definition of a precise chronology of these landforms and calculation of rates of coastal progradation. The inner unit presents ages greater than 1004 +/- 88 years. The blowouts of the middle unit show ages from 575 +/- 47 to 172 +/- 18 years. The ages of the outer unit are less than 108 +/- 10 years. Rates of coastal progradation for the inner and outer units are 0.71-0.82 m/year and 0.86-2.23 m/year, respectively. The main phase of blowout development correlates well with the Little Ice Age (LIA) climatic event. These results indicate that southern winds in subtropical Brazil became increasingly more intense and/or frequent during the LIA. These conditions persist to the present and are responsible for the development of the eolian landforms in the outer unit. Thus, barrier geomorphology can record global climatic events. The sensitivity of barrier systems in subtropical Brazil to Late Holocene climate changes was favored by the relative sea level stillstand during this time. Luminescence dating makes it possible to analyze barrier geomorphology during Late Holocene climate changes operating on timescales of a hundred to thousand years. These results improve our knowledge of barrier building and will help in the evaluation of the impact of future climate changes on coastal settings. (C) 2008 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Granitic coastal geomorphology: Applying integrated terrestrial and bathymetric LiDAR with multibeam sonar to examine coastal landscape evolution

Coasts composed of resistant lithologies such as granite are generally highly resistant to erosion. They tend to evolve over multiple sea level cycles with highstands acting to remove subaerially weathered material. This often results in a landscape dominated by plunging cliffs with shore platforms rarely occurring. The long-term evolution of these landforms means that throughout the Quaternary these coasts have been variably exposed to different sea level elevations which means erosion may have been concentrated at different elevations from today. Investigations of the submarine landscape of granitic coasts have however been hindered by an inability to accurately image the nearshore morphology. Only with the advent of multibeam sonar and aerial laser surveying can topographic data now be seamlessly collected from above and below sea level. This study tests the utility of these techniques and finds that very accurate measurements can be made of the nearshore thereby allowing researchers to study the submarine profile with the same accuracy as the subaerial profile. From a combination of terrestrial and marine LiDAR data with multibeam sonar data, it is found that the morphology of granite domes is virtually unaffected by erosion at sea level. It appears that evolution of these landscapes on the coast is a very slow process with modern sea level acting only to remove subaerially weathered debris. The size and orientation of the joints determines the erosional potential of the granite. Where joints are densely spaced (<2 m apart) or the bedrock is highly weathered can semi-horizontal surfaces form.

Facies associations and controls on the evolution from a coastal bay to a lagoon system, Santa Catarina Coast, Brazil

The diverse Holocene morphological features along the south coast of the state of Santa Catarina include lagoons and residual lakes, a barrier, a delta (constructed by the Tubarao River), and pre-existing incised valleys that have flooded and filled. This scenario contains the sedimentary record of the transition from a bay to a lagoon system, which occurred during the rise and subsequent semi-stabilisation of the relative sea-level during the Holocene. The geomorphological evolution of this area was investigated using a combination of morphology, stratigraphic analysis of rotary push cores, vibracores and trenches with radiocarbon dating, taxonomic determination and taphonomic characterisation of Holocene fossil molluscs. Palaeogeographic maps were constructed to illustrate how the bay evolved over the last 8000 years. The relative sea-level rise and local sedimentary processes were the prime forcing factors determining the depositional history and palaeogeographic changes. The Holocene sedimentary succession began between 8000 and 5700 cal BP with the deposits of transgressive sandsheets. These deposits correspond to the initial marine flooding surface that was formed while the relative sea-level rose at a higher rate than the input of sediments, prior to the formation of the coastal barrier. The change from a bay to a lagoon system occurred around 5700 and 2500 cal BP during the mid-Holocene highstand with the formation of the barrier and with the achievement of a balance between sea-level rise and sedimentary supply. Until 2500 cal BP, the presence of this barrier, the following gentle decline in sea level and the initial emergence of back-barrier features restricted the hydro-dynamic circulation inside the bay and favoured an increase in the Tubarao River delta progradation rate. The final stage, during the last 2500 years, was marked by the increasing back-barrier width, with the establishment of salt marshes, the arrival of the delta in the back-barrier, and the advance of aeolian dunes along the outer lagoon margins. This study shed light on the mechanisms of coastal bay evolution in a setting existed prior to the beginning of barrier lagoon sedimentation. (C) 2012 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Coastal floods and decadal changes: the climate factor

Observation has widely shown for nearly all last century that the Spanish (Dynamic) Maritime Climate was following around 10 to 11 year cycles in its most significant figure, wind wave, despite it being better to register cycles of 20 to 22 years, in analogical way with the semi-diurnal and diurnal cycles of Cantabrian tides. Those cycles were soon linked to sun activity and, at the end of the century, the latter was related to the Solar System evolution. We know now that waves and storm surges are coupled and that (Dynamic) Maritime Climate forms part of a more complex “Thermal Machine” including Hydrological cycle. The analysis of coastal floods could so facilitate the extension of that experience. According to their immediate cause, simple flood are usually sorted out into flash, pluvial, fluvial, groundwater and coastal types, considering the last as caused by sea waters. But the fact is that most of coastal floods are the result of the concomitance of several former simple types. Actually, the several Southeastern Mediterranean coastal flood events show to be the result of the superposition within the coastal zone of flash, fluvial, pluvial and groundwater flood types under boundary condition imposed by the concomitant storm sea level rise. This work shall be regarded as an attempt to clarify that cyclic experience, through an in-depth review of a past flood events in Valencia (Turia and Júcar basins), as in Murcia (Segura’s) as well.

Understanding extreme Spanish coastal flood events

The Santa Irene flood event, at the end of October 1982, is one of the most dramatically widely reported flood events in Spain. Its renown is mainly due to the collapse of the Tous dam, but its main message is to be the paradigm of the incidence of the maritime/littoral weather and its temporal sea level rise by storm surge accompanying rain process on the coastal plains inland floods. Looking at damages the presentation analyzes the adapted measures from the point of view of the aims of the FP7 SMARTeST Project related to the Flood Resilience improvement in urban areas through looking for Technologies, Systems and Tools an appropriate "road to de market".

Use of phosphorous mapping and sea-level change data in assessing coastal activity zones and establishing site chronology : A case study from the Icelandic multi-period site of Vatnsfjörður

This paper forms part of Lukasz Mikolajczyk's PhD dissertation, which is supervised by Karen Milek

Steepness expansion for free surface flows in coastal aquifers

Free surface flow of groundwater in aquifers has been studied since the early 1960s. Previous investigations have been based on the Boussinesq equation, derived from the non-linear kinematic boundary condition. In fact, the Boussinesq equation is the zeroth-order equation in the shallow-water expansion. A key assumption in this expansion is that the mean thickness of the aquifer is small compared with a reference length, normally taken to be the linear decay length. In this study, we re-examine the expansion scheme for free surface groundwater flows, and propose a new expansion wherein the shallow-water assumption is replaced by a steepness assumption. A comparison with experimental data shows that the new model provides a better prediction of water table levels than the conventional shallow-water expansion. The applicable ranges of the two expansions are exhibited. (c) 2004 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.