The power of a single prototype : sustainable fashion textile design and the prevention of carcinogenic melanoma

Is there a role for prototyping (sketching, pattern making and sampling) in addressing real world problems of sustainability (People, Profit, and Planet), in this case social/healthcare issues, through fashion and textiles research? Skin cancer and related illnesses are a major cause of disfigurement and death in New Zealand and Australia where the rates of Melanoma, a serious form of skin cancer, are four times higher than in the Northern Hemisphere regions of USA, UK and Canada (IARC, 1992). In 2007, AUT University (Auckland University of Technology) Fashion Department and the Health Promotion Department of Cancer Society - Auckland Division (CSA) developed a prototype hat aimed at exploring a barrier type solution to prevent facial and neck skin damage. This is a paradigm shift from the usual medical research model. This paper provides an overview of the project and examines how a fashion prototype has been used to communicate emergent social, environmental, personal, physiological and technological concerns to the trans-disciplinary research team. The authors consider how the design of a product can enhance and support sustainable design practice while contributing a potential solution to an ongoing health issue. Analysis of this case study provides an insight into prototyping in fashion and textiles design, user engagement and the importance of requirements analysis in relation to sustainable development. The analysis and a successful outcome of the final prototype have provided a gateway to future collaborative research and product development.

A solution to fashion textile unsustainability

Today, polarisation of the fashion textile industry has already begun as smart, intelligent and conscientious fashion emerges as a backlash to the experience of choice fatigue, poor quality, dumb design and greenwash. But the process, development and manufacture of fashion textiles is complex. And the demand, both customer and industry driven, for new integrated product policies,2 designed to minimise environmental impacts by looking at all phases of a product's life cycle, is problematic due to complexity and a lack of networking tools. This article explores these issues through the construct of the department store of the future.

Full circle : the future of sustainable fashion manufacturing in New Zealand

Many fashion businesses in New Zealand have followed a global trend towards inexpensive off shore manufacturing. The transfer of the production of garments to overseas workers has had consequences for the wellbeing of local businesses, fashion designers and garment makers. The gradual decline of fashion manufacturing also appears to have resulted in a local fashion scene where many garments look the same in style, colour, fabric, cut and fit. The excitement of the past, where the majority of fashion designers established their own individuality through the cut and shape of the garments that they produced, may have been inadvertently lost in an effort to take advantage of cost savings achieved through mass production and manufacturing methods which are now largely unavailable in New Zealand. Consequently, a sustainable local fashion and manufacturing industry, with design integrity, seems further out of reach. This paper is focussed upon the thesis that the design and manufacture of a fashion garment, bearing in mind certain economic and practical restrictions at its inception, can contribute to a more sustainable fashion manufacturing industry in New Zealand.

In-plant control of pollution : upgrading textile operations to reduce pollution.

"This seminar publication contains materials prepared for the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency Technology Transfer Program and presented at industrial pollution-control seminars for the textile industry. This publication was coordinated by the Institute of Textile Technology, Charlottesville, Va."

Caractérisation et évaluation de textiles antifongiques

Hypothèse: L’impression sur textile d’une formulation de microparticules lipidiques avec un principe actif (éconazole nitrate) permet de conserver ou d’améliorer son activité pharmaceutique ex vivo et in vitro. Méthode: Une formulation de microparticules d’éconazole nitrate (ECN) a été formulée par homogénéisation à haut cisaillement, puis imprimée sur un textile LayaTM par une méthode de sérigraphie. La taille des microparticules, la température de fusion des microparticules sur textile et la teneur en éconazole du tissu ont été déterminées. La stabilité de la formulation a été suivie pendant 4 mois à 25°C avec 65% humidité résiduelle (RH). L’activité in vitro des textiles pharmaceutiques a été mesurée et comparée à la formulation commerciale 1% éconazole nitrate (w/w) sur plusieurs espèces de champignons dont le C. albicans, C. glabrata, C. kefyr, C. luminisitae, T. mentagrophytes et T. rubrum. La thermosensibilité des formulations a été étudiée par des tests de diffusion in vitro en cellules de Franz. L’absorption cutanée de l’éconazole a été évaluée ex vivo sur la peau de cochon. Résultats: Les microparticules d’éconazole avaient des tailles de 3.5±0.1 μm. La température de fusion était de 34.8°C. La thermosensibilité a été déterminée par un relargage deux fois supérieur à 32°C comparés à 22°C sur 6 heures. Les textiles ont présenté une teneur stable pendant 4 mois. Les textiles d’ECN in vitro ont démontré une activité similaire à la formulation commerciale sur toutes ii espèces de Candida testées, ainsi qu’une bonne activité contre les dermatophytes. La diffusion sur peau de cochon a démontré une accumulation supérieure dans le stratum corneum de la formulation textile par rapport à la formulation Pevaryl® à 1% ECN. La thermo-sensibilité de la formulation a permis un relargage sélectif au contact de la peau, tout en assurant une bonne conservation à température ambiante.

Image processing and pattern recognition in textiles

Image processing and pattern recognition have been successfully applied in many textile related areas. For example, they have been used in defect detection of cotton fibers and various fabrics. In this work, the application of image processing into animal fiber classification is discussed. Integrated into / with artificial neural networks, the image processing technique has provided a useful tool to solve complex problems in textile technology. Three different approaches are used in this work forfiber classification and pattern recognition: feature extraction with image process, pattern recognition and classification with artificial neural networks, and feature recognition and classification with artificial neural network. All of them yieldssatisfactory results by giving a high level of accuracy in classification.

Improvement in yarn quality for cotton and cotton blend yarns

A novel method of improving yarn quality by improved incorporation of fibres into the yarn structure has been proposed and investigated. This methid enables spinning of finer, stronger, low twist, less hairy and more abarsion resistant yarns.

Configurações de semeadura e produção e qualidade da fibra do algodoeiro

We evaluated, in two locations, production and fiber quality of cultivar IAC 23 cotton plants in ultra-narrow row, narrow row and conventional row spacing, varying number of plants by linear meter. Two experiments had been lead, one in Piracicaba - SP and another one in Campinas - SP, both in the crop year 2001/02. The experimental design was randomized blocks, in a factorial scheme, with 4 replications, being three spacing rows: 0.38m (ultra-narrow), 0.76m (narrow), and 0.95 m (conventional); and four densities (5, 8, 11, and 14 plants by linear meter). In Piracicaba, the production of cotton was 12% and 8,4 % superior in the ultra-narrow row and narrow row, respectively, when compared to the conventional row. In the ultra-narrow row in the smaller density of plants in the line, the production of cotton was 29.2% and 22.3% superior, respectively, to the productions of the narrow row and conventional row in the same number of plants in the line. The smaller spacing and higher plant density on the line, the smaller the number of bolls per plant at both locations. The agronomic characters of laboratory and the technological characteristics of the fiber were not modified by the populations of plants in the two studied environments.

The Ultraviolet Protection Factor of Naturally-pigmented Cotton

Textile Technology: The sun-blocking properties of a textile are enhanced when a dye, pigment, delustrant, or ultraviolet absorber finish is present that absorbs ultraviolet radiation and blocks its transmission through a fabric to the skin. For this reason, dyed fabrics provide better sun protection than bleached fabrics. Since naturally-colored cottons contain pigments that produce shades ranging from light green to tan and brown, it seemed reasonable to postulate that they would provide better sun protection than conventional bleached cotton, and that natural pigments might prove more durable to laundering and light exposure than dyes, but there is no published research on the ultraviolet transmission values for naturally-pigmented cottons. The purpose of this study was to determine the ultraviolet protection (UPF) values of naturally-pigmented cotton in three shades (green, tan, and brown), and the effect of light exposure and laundering on the sun-blocking properties of naturally-pigmented cotton. Naturally-pigmented cotton specimens were exposed to xenon light and accelerated laundering, ultraviolet transmission values measured, and UPF values calculated following light exposure and laundering. The naturally-pigmented cottons exhibited significantly higher UPF values than conventional cotton (bleached or unbleached). Although xenon light exposure and laundering caused some fading, the UPF values of naturally-pigmented cotton continue to be sufficiently high so that all three shades continue to provide good sun protection after the equivalent of 5 home launderings and 80 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists fading units (AFUs) of xenon light exposure.

The influence of contact pressure, moisture, and compression time on the performance of cotton anti-contamination clothing

The objectives of this research were (1) to study the effect of contact pressure, compression time, and liquid (moisture content of the fabric) on the transfer by sliding contact of non-fixed surface contamination to protective clothing constructed from uncoated, woven fabrics, (2) to study the effect of contact pressure, compression time, and liquid content on the subsequent penetration through the fabric, and (3) to determine if varying the type of contaminant changes the effect of contact pressure, compression time, and liquid content on the transfer by sliding contact and penetration of non-fixed surface contamination. ^ It was found that the combined influence of the liquid (moisture content of the fabric), load (contact pressure), compression time, and their interactions significantly influenced the penetration of all three test agents, sucrose- 14C, triolein-3H, and starch-14C through 100% cotton fabric. The combined influence of the statistically significant main effects and their interactions increased the penetration of triolein- 3H by 32,548%, sucrose-14C by 7,006%, and starch- 14C by 1,900%. ^

Mechanistic modelling of pilling. Part II: Individual-fibre computational model

A one-dimensional computational model of pilling of a fibre assembly has been created. The model follows a set of individual fibres, as free ends and loops appear as fuzz and arc progressively withdrawn from the body of the assembly, and entangle to form pills, which eventually break off or are pulled out. The time dependence of the computation is given by ticks, which correspond to cycles of a wear and laundering process. The movement of the fibres is treated as a reptation process. A set of standard values is used as inputs to the computation. Predictions arc given of the change with a number Of cycles of mass of fuzz, mass of pills, and mass removed from the assembly. Changes in the standard values allow sensitivity studies to be carried out.

Mechanistic modelling of pilling. Part I: Detailing of mechanisms

Mechanistic models of pilling are discussed in general terms, and a framework for pilling simulations is thereby created. A fundamental flaw in earlier models of pilling is revealed. A more comprehensive model of fibre diffusion and withdrawal from the fabric is proposed, and this is solved in general terms to find the rate of fuzz growth. Fuzz wear-off and entanglement into pills are discussed. Fibre fatigue is introduced, and it is demonstrated that this potentially increases the rate of withdrawal of anchor fibres.

Design, physico-chemical characterization and bioactivity studies of hybrid nanostructured titanium surfaces for enhanced osseointegration

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Development and evaluation of a novel integrated anti-icing/de-icing technology for carbon fibre composite aerostructures using an electro-conductive textile

The preliminary evaluation is described of a new electro-thermal anti-icing/de-icing device for carbon fibre composite aerostructures. The heating element is an electro-conductive carbon-based textile (ECT) by Gorix. Electrical shorting between the structural carbon fibres and the ECT was mitigated by incorporating an insulating layer formed of glass fibre plies or a polymer film. A laboratory-based anti-icing and de-icing test program demonstrated that the film-insulated devices yielded better performance than the glssass fibre insulated ones. The heating capability after impact damage was maintained as long as the ECT fabric was not breached to the extent of causing electrical shorting. A modified structural scarf repair was shown to restore the heating capacity of a damaged specimen.