Production et articulation des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter

Ce mémoire explore les productions et les articulations des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter. En réaction au modèle actuel prédominant du Fast Fashion, basé sur une surproduction et une surconsommation des vêtements, le Slow Fashion sensibilise les différents acteurs du secteur de la mode à avoir une vision plus consciente des impacts de leurs pratiques sur les travailleurs, les communautés et les écosystèmes (Fletcher, 2007) et propose une décélération des cycles de production et de consommation des vêtements. L’enjeu de cette recherche est de montrer que le Slow Fashion se dessine notamment à travers les relations entres les différents acteurs sur Twitter et que l'ensemble de ces interactions prend la forme d'un rhizome, c’est-à-dire d’un système dans lequel les éléments qui le composent ne suivent aucune arborescence, aucune hiérarchie et n’émanent pas d’un seul point d’origine. (Deleuze & Guattari, 1976) Sur Twitter, les appartenances au Slow Fashion font surface, se connectent les unes aux autres par des liens de nature différente. Consommateurs, designers, entreprises, journalistes, etc., ces parties prenantes construisent collectivement le Slow Fashion comme mouvement alternatif à la mode mainstream actuelle. Mon cadre théorique s’est construit grâce à une analyse de la littérature des concepts de mode, d’identité et d’appartenance afin de mieux appréhender le contexte dans lequel le mouvement a émergé. Puis, j’ai également réalisé une étude exploratoire netnographique sur Twitter au cours de laquelle j’ai observé, tout en y participant, les interactions sur la plateforme abordant le Slow Fashion et/ou la mode éthique. Publiée sur ce blogue (http://belongingtoslowfashion.blogspot.ca), cette « creative presentation of research » (Chapman & Sawchuk, 2012) ne constitue pas une histoire présentant les prétendues origines de ce mouvement mais plutôt une photographie partielle à un certain moment du Slow Fashion. Construite tel un rhizome, elle n’a ni début, ni fin, ni hiérarchie. J’invite alors les lectrices/lecteurs à choisir n’importe quelle entrée et à délaisser toute logique linéaire et déductive. Cette exploration sera guidée par des liens hypertextes ou des annotations qui tisseront des connexions avec d’autres parties ou feront émerger d’autres questionnements. Il s’agit d’offrir une introduction aux enjeux que pose le Slow Fashion, d’ouvrir la voie à d’autres recherches et d’autres réflexions, ou encore de sensibiliser sur ce sujet.

Production et articulation des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter

Ce mémoire explore les productions et les articulations des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter. En réaction au modèle actuel prédominant du Fast Fashion, basé sur une surproduction et une surconsommation des vêtements, le Slow Fashion sensibilise les différents acteurs du secteur de la mode à avoir une vision plus consciente des impacts de leurs pratiques sur les travailleurs, les communautés et les écosystèmes (Fletcher, 2007) et propose une décélération des cycles de production et de consommation des vêtements. L’enjeu de cette recherche est de montrer que le Slow Fashion se dessine notamment à travers les relations entres les différents acteurs sur Twitter et que l'ensemble de ces interactions prend la forme d'un rhizome, c’est-à-dire d’un système dans lequel les éléments qui le composent ne suivent aucune arborescence, aucune hiérarchie et n’émanent pas d’un seul point d’origine. (Deleuze & Guattari, 1976) Sur Twitter, les appartenances au Slow Fashion font surface, se connectent les unes aux autres par des liens de nature différente. Consommateurs, designers, entreprises, journalistes, etc., ces parties prenantes construisent collectivement le Slow Fashion comme mouvement alternatif à la mode mainstream actuelle. Mon cadre théorique s’est construit grâce à une analyse de la littérature des concepts de mode, d’identité et d’appartenance afin de mieux appréhender le contexte dans lequel le mouvement a émergé. Puis, j’ai également réalisé une étude exploratoire netnographique sur Twitter au cours de laquelle j’ai observé, tout en y participant, les interactions sur la plateforme abordant le Slow Fashion et/ou la mode éthique. Publiée sur ce blogue (http://belongingtoslowfashion.blogspot.ca), cette « creative presentation of research » (Chapman & Sawchuk, 2012) ne constitue pas une histoire présentant les prétendues origines de ce mouvement mais plutôt une photographie partielle à un certain moment du Slow Fashion. Construite tel un rhizome, elle n’a ni début, ni fin, ni hiérarchie. J’invite alors les lectrices/lecteurs à choisir n’importe quelle entrée et à délaisser toute logique linéaire et déductive. Cette exploration sera guidée par des liens hypertextes ou des annotations qui tisseront des connexions avec d’autres parties ou feront émerger d’autres questionnements. Il s’agit d’offrir une introduction aux enjeux que pose le Slow Fashion, d’ouvrir la voie à d’autres recherches et d’autres réflexions, ou encore de sensibiliser sur ce sujet.

Co-creative media : theorising digital storytelling as a platform for researching and developing participatory culture

This paper considers the question, ‘what is co-creative media, and why is it a useful idea in social media research’? The term ‘co-creative media’ is now used by Creative Industries researchers at QUT to describe their digital storytelling practices. Digital storytelling is a set of collaborative digital media production techniques that have been used to facilitate social participation in numerous Australian and international contexts. Digital storytelling has been adapted by Creative Industries researchers at QUT as a platform for researching the potential of vernacular creativity in a variety of contexts, including social inclusion of marginalized and disadvantaged groups; inclusion in public histories of narratives that might be overlooked; and articulation of voices that otherwise remain silent in the formulation of social and economic development strategies. The adaption of digital storytelling to different contexts has been shaped by the reflexive, recursive, and pragmatic requirements of action research. Amongst other things, this activity draws attention to the agency of researchers in facilitating these kinds of participatory media processes and outcomes. This discussion serves to problematise concepts of participatory media by introducing the term ‘co-creative media’ and differentiating these from other social media production practices.

Using the Internet to leverage sponsorships

This study considers the effectiveness of the Internet as a medium through which sponsorship investments can be leveraged. It considers the variables of sponsor-sponsee congruence,articulation, and the extent to which a sponsorship is leveraged via sponsor websites, in relation to consumer attitudes toward brand and company level variables across time. Results show that,consumer attitudes are more favourable for congruent sponsorships, those that are not articulated in commercially-oriented terms, and those that are leveraged via sponsor websites. Additionally, after a seven-day delay, leveraged sponsorships display sustained positive attitudes whereas those not leveraged display a decline in attitudes.

Decolonising the concept of knowledge

Controlling the definition of what was essentially a subjugated culture, the colonisers reserve the power to distinguish authentic aspects of the living traditions of the colonised. If the colonised argue political demands by reference to their culture, the colonisers are quick to adjudicate what is genuine in such claims. (Fannon, 1967) Since colonial invasions, Australia’s Indigenous people have weathered rapid change. While the origins of Australia’s Indigenous peoples continues to be an archaeological interest for many, how Indigenous cultures have survived, transformed and retained a sense of ‘difference’ is fundamental to understanding the diversity of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander cultures within this continent as both contemporaneous and historical. It is important that teachers, students and researchers within Indigenous studies remind themselves that much of the literature on Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islanders can be ideologically traced back to the emergence of ‘knowledge’ about native peoples in the context of European imperialism and expansion from the fifteenth century. Care must therefore be taken in not conveying ‘scientific’ rational knowledge as perhaps the hidden agenda or notion of assumptions of European ‘superiority’ and non-European inferiority. The recognition by the High Court of Australia (1992) abandoned the legal myth of terra nullius which based the dispossession of Indigenous land on the basis of it being considered an empty land. It could also be argued that this decision recognised that distinct customs and traditions continue to exist within the social and cultural ‘knowledge’ of Indigenous peoples of Australia. General issues and concerns relating to research design, methodology and articulation within QUT are not just confined to this university and the research project presented as a case study but are important in dealing with how Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander students and academics participate or are employed within the university. We feel that the design and methodology of research that either covertly or overtly focuses on Indigenous Australians can no longer presume that all research will naturally follow protocols that are culturally appropriate as this appropriateness is usually defined by the institution. By no means do we feel that research should be debilitated as a result of raising these issues, but that collaborative approaches within the ‘process’ of research will address Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people and communities as much as the intended outcomes of research itself.

Problem solving in a middle school robotics design classroom

Little research has been conducted on how students work when they are required to plan, build and evaluate artefacts in technology rich learning environments such as those supported by tools including flow charts, Labview programming and Lego construction. In this study, activity theory was used as an analytic tool to examine the social construction of meaning. There was a focus on the effect of teachers’ goals and the rules they enacted upon student use of the flow chart planning tool, and the tools of the programming language Labview and Lego construction. It was found that the articulation of a teacher’s goals via rules and divisions of labour helped to form distinct communities of learning and influenced the development of different problem solving strategies. The use of the planning tool flow charting was associated with continuity of approach, integration of problem solutions including appreciation of the nexus between construction and programming, and greater educational transformation. Students who flow charted defined problems in a more holistic way and demonstrated more methodical, insightful and integrated approaches to their use of tools. The findings have implications for teaching in design dominated learning environments.

Supervision practice for allied mental health professionals within a large mental health workforce : exploring the phenomenon

This paper reports on an exploration of the concept of 'supervision' as applied to allied health professionals within a large mental health service in one Australian State. A two-part methodology was used, with focus group interviews conducted with allied health professionals, and semi-structured telephone interviews with service managers. Fifty-eight allied health professionals participated in a series of seven focus groups. Semi-structured interviews were conducted with the Directors or Managers of mental health services in all 21 regions in the state. Allied health professionals and service managers both considered supervision to be an important mechanism for ensuring staff competence and best practice outcomes for consumers and carers. There was strong endorsement of the need for clarification and articulation of supervision policies within the organization, and the provision of appropriate resourcing to enable supervision to occur. Current practice in supervision was seen as ad hoc and of variable standard; the need for training in supervision was seen as critical. The supervision needs of newly graduated allied health professionals and those working in rural and regional areas were also seen as important. The need for a flexible and accessible model of supervision was clearly demonstrated.

Comparing "socially responsible" and "sustainable" commercial property investment

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to set out to explore the similarities and differences between jargon used to describe future-focussed commercial building product. This is not so much an exercise in semantics as an attempt to demonstrate that responses to challenges facing the construction and property sectors may have more to do with language than is generally appreciated. Design/methodology/approach – This is a conceptual analysis which draws upon relevant literature. Findings – Social responsibility and sustainability are often held to be much the same thing, with each term presupposing the existence of the other. Clearly, however, there are incidences where sustainable commercial property investment (SCPI) may not be particularly socially responsible, despite being understood as an environmentally friendly initiative. By contrast, socially responsible assets, at least in theory, should always be more sustainable than mainstream non-ethically based investment. Put simply, the expression of social responsibility in the built environment may evoke, and thereby deliver, a more sustainable product, as defined by wider socially inclusive parameters. Practical implications – The findings show that promoting an ethic of social responsibility may well result in more SCPI. Thus, the further articulation and celebration of social responsibility concepts may well help to further advance a sustainable property investment agenda, which is arguably more concerned about demonstrability of efficiency than wider public good outcomes. Originality/value – The idea that jargon affects outcomes is not new. However, this idea has rarely, if ever, been applied to the distinctions between social responsibility and sustainability. Even a moderate re-emphasis on social responsibility in preference to sustainability may well provide significant future benefits with respect to the investment, building and refurbishment of commercial property.

The phenomenology of utopia : reimagining the political

This thesis argues that the end of Soviet Marxism and a bipolar global political imaginary at the dissolution of the short Twentieth Century poses an obstacle for anti-systemic political action. Such a blockage of alternate political imaginaries can be discerned by reading the work of Francis Fukuyama and "Endism" as performative invocations of the closure of political alternatives, and thus as an ideological proclamation which enables and constrains forms of social action. It is contended that the search through dialectical thought for a competing universal to posit against "liberal democracy" is a fruitless one, because it reinscribes the terms of teleological theories of history which work to effect closure. Rather, constructing a phenomenological analytic of the political conjuncture, the thesis suggests that the figure of messianism without a Messiah is central to a deconstructive reframing of the possibilities of political action - a reframing attentive to the rhetorical tone of texts. The project of recovering the political is viewed through a phenomenological lens. An agonistic political distinction must be made so as to memorialise the remainders and ghosts of progress, and thus to gesture towards an indeconstructible justice which would serve as a horizon for the articulation of an empty universal. This project is furthered by a return to a certain phenomenology inspired by Cornelius Castoriadis, Claude Lefort, Maurice Merleau-Ponty and Ernesto Laclau. The thesis provides a reading of Jacques Derrida and Walter Benjamin as thinkers of a minor universalism, a non-prescriptive utopia, and places their work in the context of new understandings of religion and the political as quasi-transcendentals which can be utilised to think through the aporias of political time in order to grasp shards of meaning. Derrida and Chantal Mouffe's deconstructive critique and supplement to Carl Schmitt's concept of the political is read as suggestive of a reframing of political thought which would leave the political question open and thus enable the articulation of social imaginary significations able to inscribe meaning in the field of political action. Thus, the thesis gestures towards a form of thought which enables rather than constrains action under the sign of justice.

Changing musical emotion : a computational rule system for modifying score and performance

When communicating emotion in music, composers and performers encode their expressive intentions through the control of basic musical features such as: pitch, loudness, timbre, mode, and articulation. The extent to which emotion can be controlled through the systematic manipulation of these features has not been fully examined. In this paper we present CMERS, a Computational Music Emotion Rule System for the control of perceived musical emotion that modifies features at the levels of score and performance in real-time. CMERS performance was evaluated in two rounds of perceptual testing. In experiment I, 20 participants continuously rated the perceived emotion of 15 music samples generated by CMERS. Three music works, each with five emotional variations were used (normal, happy, sad, angry, and tender). The intended emotion by CMERS was correctly identified 78% of the time, with significant shifts in valence and arousal also recorded, regardless of the works’ original emotion.

Cities in the airports 'shadow' : underlying interests and discretionary power in airport-region development

The previously distinct boundary between airports and their cities has become increasingly blurred as new interests and actors are identified as important stakeholders in the decision making process. As a consequence airport entities are more than ever seeking an integrated existence with their surrounding regions. While current planning strategies provide insights on how to improve and leverage land use planning in and around airports, emerging challenges for implementing and protecting these planning ideals stem from the governance shadows of development decisions. The thesis of this paper is that improving the identification, articulation and consideration of city and airport interests in the development approval process (between planning and implementation) can help avoid outcomes that hinder the ability of cities and their airports to meet their separate/mutual long-term objectives. By applying a network governance perspective to the pilot case study of Brisbane, analysis of overlapping and competing actor interests show how different governance arrangements facilitate (or impede) decision making that protects sustainable ‘airport region’ development. ---------- Contributions are made to airport and city development decision makers through the identification and analysis of effective and ineffective decision making pathways, and to governance literature by way of forwarding empirically derived frameworks for showing how actors protect their interests in the ‘crowded decision making domain’ of airport region development. This work was carried out through the Airport Metropolis Research Project under the Australian Research Council’s Linkage Projects funding scheme (LP0775225).

A modified cementing technique using BoneSource to augment fixation of the acetabulum in a sheep model

Background and purpose Our aim was to prove in an animal model that the use of HA paste at the cement-bone interface in the acetabulum would improve fixation. We examined, in sheep, the effect of interposing a layer of hydroxyapatite cement around the periphery of a polyethylene socket prior to fixing it using polymethylemethacrylate (PMMA). Methods We made a randomized study involving 22 sheep to test whether the application of BoneSource hydroxyapatite material to the surface of the ovine acetabulum prior to cementing a polyethylene cup at hip arthroplasty improved the fixation and the nature of the interface. We studied the gross radiographical appearance of the implant-bone interface and the histological appearance at the interface. Results There were more radiolucencies evident in the control group. Histologically, only sheep randomized into the BoneSource group exhibited a fully osseointegrated interface. Use of the hydroxyapatite material did not confer any detrimental effects. In some cases the material appeared to have been fully resorbed. When the material was evident on histological section, it was incorporated into an osseointegrated interface. There was no giant cell reaction present in any case. There was no evidence of migration of BoneSource to the articulation. Interpretation The application of HA material prior to cementation of a socket produced an improved interface. The technique may be useful in man with to extend the longevity of the cemented implant by protecting the socket interface from the effect of hydrodynamic fluid flow and particulate debris.

A national framework for disaster health education in Australia

INTRODUCTION: Recent events have heightened awareness of disaster health issues and the need to prepare the health workforce to plan for and respond to major incidents. This has been reinforced at an international level by the World Association for Disaster and Emergency Medicine, which has proposed an international educational framework. ----------- OBJECTIVE: The aim of this paper is to outline the development of a national educational framework for disaster health in Australia. ----------- METHODS: The framework was developed on the basis of the literature and the previous experience of members of a National Collaborative for Disaster Health Education and Research. The Collaborative was brought together in a series of workshops and teleconferences, utilizing a modified Delphi technique to finalize the content at each level of the framework and to assign a value to the inclusion of that content at the various levels. ----------- FRAMEWORK: The framework identifies seven educational levels along with educational outcomes for each level. The framework also identifies the recommended contents at each level and assigns a rating of depth for each component. The framework is not intended as a detailed curriculum, but rather as a guide for educationalists to develop specific programs at each level. ----------- CONCLUSIONS: This educational framework will provide an infrastructure around which future educational programs in Disaster Health in Australia may be designed and delivered. It will permit improved articulation for students between the various levels and greater consistency between programs so that operational responders may have a consistent language and operational approach to the management of major events.

Work integrated learning as a component of the capstone experience in undergraduate law

Background: The “Curriculum renewal in legal education” project has been funded by the Australian Learning and Teaching Council with the core objectives being the articulation of a set of final year curriculum design principles, and the development of a model of a transferable final year program. Through these principles and the development of the model, it is anticipated that the final year experience for law students will provide greater opportunity for them to understand the relevance of their learning, and will enhance their capacity to make decisions regarding their career path. Discussion / Argument: This paper reports on the project’s progress to date, and presents an argument for the inclusion of work integrated learning (WIL) as a component of the final year experience in undergraduate law programs. The project has identified that the two principal objectives of capstone experiences are to provide closure and to facilitate transition to post-university life. Reflective practice and Bruner’s spiral curriculum model are the central theoretical foundations by which these objectives can be achieved. Experiential learning is also increasingly seen as an essential element of a capstone experience. WIL is consistent with the objectives of capstones in focusing on the transition to professional practice and providing opportunities for reflection. However, the ability of WIL to meet all of the objectives of capstones, particularly closure and integration, may be limited. Conclusions / Implications: The paper posits that while WIL should be considered as a potential component of a capstone experience, educators should ensure that WIL is not equated with a capstone experience unless it is carefully designed to ensure that all of the objectives of capstones are met. Keywords: Work-integrated learning, capstone, final year experience, law

Towards beneficence for young children in research : challenges for bioethics committees

Bioethics committees are the focus of international scrutiny,particularly in relation to their application of the principle of beneficence,ensuring that risks incurred in research are outweighed by benefits to those involved directly and to the broader society. Beneficence, in turn, has become an international focus in research with young children, who hitherto had been rarely seen or heard in their own right in research.Twenty years ago, The United Nations Convention on the Rights of the Child 1989 raised global awareness of children’s human rights to both participation and protection, and articulation of children’s rights came to inform understandings of young children’s rights in research. In the intervening period, countries such as Australia came to favour child protection and risk minimisation in research over the notion of children’s bone fide participation in research. A key element of the protection regime was the theoretical understanding of young children as developmentally unable and, therefore, unfit to understand, consent to and fully participate as research participants. This understanding has been challenged in recent decades by new theoretical understandings of children’s competence, where children can be seen to demonstrate competence, even at an early age, in consenting to, participating in and withdrawing from research. The paper draws on these understandings to provide insights for human research gatekeepers, such as bioethics committees, to deal with the challenges of research with young children and to realize the benefits that may accrue to children in research.