Luxurious Merovingian Textiles Excavated from Burials in the Saint Denis Basilica, France, 6th-7th century

A new examination of the textile fragments found in the Merovingian burials in the basilica of Saint Denis, near Paris, has recently underscored the diversity of fabrics used to make garments in which members of the royal court were buried. Among them, some woolens of fine quality had been dyed with indigotin. The most astonishing fibre found belongs to a mixed textile (not skin) with beaver fibers and wool. Silks contained shellfish purple and in one case kermes? Two dyestuffs associated with royalty and privilege. Along with this was large number of gold threads, probably produced locally and that were used in tablet-woven borders or for embroideries. In addition, several figured silks, of oriental origin, testify to the importance of this "foreign" material and the taste for textiles woven with complex techniques and probably what had originally had beautiful designs. Although none of these designs have been preserved and many colors have been greatly damaged, the technical characteristics of the remnants indicate proveniences as far as Byzantium, Sassanid Persia and the Chinese court. Such precious textiles show the high social status and political power of the Merovingian court, a testament to their ability to access such luxurious and costly textiles through diplomacy and/or trade with other powerful empires. The examination of these rare textiles along with other fine silks and luxury objects from the same period found in France expand our view of the fundamental role of textiles in the political sphere of this early period of European history.

Compositional effects of large graphene oxide sheets on the spinnability and properties of polyurethane composite fibers

Recent advances in wearable electronics, technical textiles, and wearable strain sensing devices have resulted in extensive research on stretchable electrically conductive fibers. Addressing these areas require the development of efficient fiber processing methodologies that do not compromise the mechanical properties of the polymer (typically an elastomer) when nanomaterials are added as conductive fillers. It is highly desirable that the addition of conductive fillers provides not only electrical conductivity, but that these fillers also enhance the stiffness, strength, stretchability, and toughness of the polymer. Here, the compatibility of polyurethane (PU) and graphene oxide (GO) is utilized for the study of the properties of elastomeric conductive fibers prepared by wet-spinning. The GO-reinforced PU fibers demonstrate outstanding mechanical properties with a 200-fold and a threefold enhancement in Young's modulus and toughness, respectively. Postspinning thermal annealing of the fibers results in electrically conductive fibers with a low percolation threshold (≈0.37 wt% GO). An investigation into optimized fiber's electromechanical behavior reveals linear strain sensing abilities up to 70%. Results presented here provide practical insights on how to simultaneously maintain or improve electrical, mechanical, and electromechanical properties in conductive elastomer fibers.

Barrier textiles for protection against microbes

The presence or growth of microbes on textiles may result in a series of problems such as unpleasant odors, cross infection, disease transmission, or discoloration and deterioration of textiles. Imparting textiles with antimicrobial property can effectively eliminate these adversities and thus has been attracting great attention. This chapter summarizes the commonly used antimicrobial agents such as silver, metal oxides, photoactive dyes, quaternary ammonium compounds, N-halamines, triclosan, polybiguanides, chitosan, and plant-derived bioactive agents, their characteristics, toxicity, antimicrobial ability, ecological acceptability, and related textile finishing techniques and evaluation methods. Since durability to repeated washing is the major challenge for the practical use of antimicrobial textiles, the chapter provides details on the technique to immobilize antimicrobial agents onto fibers. In addition, impacts of using antimicrobial textiles on the environment and health are discussed in the last section.

The strength and failure of silica optical fibers

The mechanical strength and failure behavior of conventional and microstructured silica optical fibers was investigated using a tensile test and fracture mechanics and numerical analyses. The effect of polymer coating on failure behavior was also studied. The results indicate that all these fibers fail in a brittle manner and failure normally starts from fiber surfaces. The failure loads observed in coated fibers are higher than those in bare fibers. The introduction of air holes reduces fiber strength and their geometrical arrangements have a remarkable effect on stress distribution in the longitudinal direction. These results are potentially useful for the design, fabrication and evaluation of optical fibers for a wide range of applications.

Ways of telling : research methodology for fashion textiles design

Research methodology in the discipline of Art & Design has been a topic for much debate in the academic community. The result of such avid and ongoing discussion appears to be a disciplinary obsession with research methodologies and a culture of adopting and adapting existing methodologies from more established disciplines. This has eventuated as a means of coping with academic criticism and as an attempt to elevate Art & Design to a ‘real academic status’. Whilst this adoption has had some effect in tempering the opinion of Art & Design research from more ‘serious’ academics the practice may be concealing a deeper problem for this discipline. Namely, that knowledge transfer within creative practice, particularly in fashion textiles design practice, is largely tacit in nature and not best suited to dissemination through traditional means of academic writing and publication. ----- ----- There is an opportunity to shift the academic debate away from appropriate (or inappropriate) use of methodologies and theories to demonstrate the existence (or absence) of rigor in creative practice research. In particular, the changing paradigms for the definitions of research to support new models for research quality assessment (such as the RAE in the United Kingdom and ERA in Australia) require a re-examination of the traditions of academic writing and publication in relation to this form of research. It is now appropriate to test the limits of tacit knowledge. It has been almost half a century since Michael Polanyi wrote “we know more than we can tell” (Polanyi, 1967 p.4) at a time when the only means of ‘telling’ was through academic writing and publishing in hardcopy format. ----- ----- This paper examines the academic debate surrounding research methodologies for fashion textiles design through auto-ethnographic case study and object analysis. The author argues that, while this debate is interesting, the focus should be to ask: are there more effective ways for creative practitioner researchers to disseminate their research? The aim of this research is to examine the possibilities of developing different, more effective methods of ‘telling’ to support the transfer of tacit knowledge inherent in the discipline of Fashion Textiles Design.

Sustainable fashion textiles design : value adding through technological enhancement

A key concern in the field of contemporary fashion/textiles design is the emergence of ‘fast fashion’: best explained as "buy it Friday, wear it Saturday and throw it away on Sunday" (O'Loughlin, 2007). In this contemporary retail atmosphere of “pile it high: sell it cheap” and “quick to market”, even designer goods have achieved a throwaway status. This modern culture of consumerism is the antithesis of sustainability and is proving a dilemma surrounding sustainable practice for designers and producers in the disciplines (de Blas, 2010). Design researchers including those in textiles/fashion have begun to explore what is a key question in the 21st century in order to create a vision and reason for their disciplines: Can products be designed to have added value to the consumer and hence contribute to a more sustainable industry? Fashion Textiles Design has much to answer for in contributing to the problems of unsustainable practices on a global scale in design, production and waste. However, designers within this field also have great potential to contribute to practical ‘real world’ solutions. ----- ----- This paper provides an overview of some of the design and technological developments from the fashion/textiles industry, endorsing a model where designers and technicians use their transferrable skills for wellbeing rather than desire. Smart materials in the form of responsive and adaptive fibres and fabrics combined with electro active devices, and ICT are increasingly shaping many aspects of society particularly in the leisure industry and interactive consumer products are ever more visible in healthcare. Combinations of biocompatible delivery devices with bio sensing elements can create analyse, sense and actuate early warning and monitoring systems which can be linked to data logging and patient records via intelligent networks. Patient sympathetic, ‘smart’ fashion/textiles applications based on interdisciplinary expertise utilising textiles design and technology is emerging. An analysis of a series of case studies demonstrates the potential of fashion textiles design practitioners to exploit the concept of value adding through technological garment and textiles applications and enhancement for health and wellbeing and in doing so contribute to a more sustainable future fashion/textiles design industry.

Sustainable fashion textiles research : engaging with new technologies

This article provides a discussion about how new technologies will enable Fashion Textiles Research to be disseminated amongst a new generation of producers and consumers via interactive and web technologies. How appropriate are these methods for Fashion Textiles Research? What are the advantages of these mediums and what will this mean for researchers, producers and consumers now and in the future, as the traditional platforms such as Journal Papers and Conferences, become obsolete? Can we predict the future of communicating textile research by assessing the way in which research is being conducted with the use of electronic databases, the Internet and with the emergence of electronic journals?

Detecting and Analyzing Linear Structures in Biomedical Images : A Case Study Using Corneal Nerve Fibers

Diabetic peripheral neuropathy (DPN) is one of the most common long-term complications of diabetes. The accurate detection and quantification of DPN are important for defining at-risk patients, anticipating deterioration, and assessing new therapies. Current methods of detecting and quantifying DPN, such as neurophysiology, lack sensitivity, require expert assessment and focus primarily on large nerve fibers. However, the earliest damage to nerve fibers in diabetic neuropathy is to the small nerve fibers. At present, small nerve fiber damage is currently assessed using skin/nerve biopsy; both are invasive technique and are not suitable for repeated investigations.

Active fibers: Matching deformable tract templates to diffusion tensor images

Reliable quantitative analysis of white matter connectivity in the brain is an open problem in neuroimaging, with common solutions requiring tools for fiber tracking, tractography segmentation and estimation of intersubject correspondence. This paper proposes a novel, template matching approach to the problem. In the proposed method, a deformable fiber-bundle model is aligned directly with the subject tensor field, skipping the fiber tracking step. Furthermore, the use of a common template eliminates the need for tractography segmentation and defines intersubject shape correspondence. The method is validated using phantom DTI data and applications are presented, including automatic fiber-bundle reconstruction and tract-based morphometry. © 2009 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

Automatic clustering of white matter fibers in brain diffusion mri with an application to genetics

To understand factors that affect brain connectivity and integrity, it is beneficial to automatically cluster white matter (WM) fibers into anatomically recognizable tracts. Whole brain tractography, based on diffusion-weighted MRI, generates vast sets of fibers throughout the brain; clustering them into consistent and recognizable bundles can be difficult as there are wide individual variations in the trajectory and shape of WM pathways. Here we introduce a novel automated tract clustering algorithm based on label fusion - a concept from traditional intensity-based segmentation. Streamline tractography generates many incorrect fibers, so our top-down approach extracts tracts consistent with known anatomy, by mapping multiple hand-labeled atlases into a new dataset. We fuse clustering results from different atlases, using a mean distance fusion scheme. We reliably extracted the major tracts from 105-gradient high angular resolution diffusion images (HARDI) of 198 young normal twins. To compute population statistics, we use a pointwise correspondence method to match, compare, and average WM tracts across subjects. We illustrate our method in a genetic study of white matter tract heritability in twins.

Inhibition by poly(acrylic acid) and morphological changes in calcium carbonate and calcium carbonate/calcium sulfate crystallization on silica fibers

An intrinsic exposed core optical fiber sensor (IECOFS) made from fused silica was used to monitor the crystallization of calcium carbonate (CaCO3) and CaCO3/calcium sulfate (CaSO4) composite at 100 and 120 °C in the absence and presence of low-molar-mass (Mn ≤ 2000) poly(acrylic acid) (PAA) with different end groups. The IECOFS responded only to deposition and growth processes on the fiber surface rather than changes occurring in the bulk of the solution. Hexyl isobutyrate-terminated PAA (Mn = 1400) and hexadecyl isobutyrate-terminated PAA (Mn = 1700) were the most effective species in preventing CaCO3 deposition. Phase transformation from vaterite to aragonite/calcite decreased with increasing hydrophobicity of the PAA end group. Low-molar-mass PAA at 10 ppm showed very significant inhibition of CaCO3/CaSO4 composite formation for all end groups investigated.

Polymorphism in B-DNA - X-ray-Diffraction Studies on Li-DNA Fibers

From X-ray diffraction studies it is generally believed that B-DNA has the structural parameters n = 10 and h = 3.4 Å. However, for the first time we report that polymorphism in the B-form can be observed in DNA fibres. This was achieved by the precise control of salt and humidity in fibres and by the application of the precession method of X-ray diffraction to DNA fibres. The significant result obtained is that n = 10 is not observed for crystalline fibre patterns. In fact, n = 10 and h = 3.4 Å are not found to occur simultaneously. Instead, a range of values, n = 9.6–10.0 and h = 3.35 Å–3.41 Å is observed.