Gender and Material Culture in Britain since 1600

What does material culture tell us about gendered identities and how does gender reveal the meaning of spaces and things?

If we look at the objects that we own, covet and which surround us in our everyday culture, there is a clear connection between ideas about gender and the material world. This book explores the material culture of the past to shed light on historical experiences and identities. Some essays focus on specific objects, such as an eighteenth-century jug or a twentieth-century powder puff, others on broader material environments, such as the sixteenth-century guild or the interior of a twentieth-century pub, while still others focus on the paraphernalia associated with certain actions, such as letter-writing or maintaining eighteenth-century men's hair.

Written by scholars in a range of history-related disciplines, the essays in this book offer exposés of current research methods and interests. These demonstrate to students how a relationship between material culture and gender is being addressed, while also revealing a variety of intellectual approaches and topics.

Mid-Century Molecular: The Material Culture of X-ray Crystallographic Visualisation across Postwar British Science and Industrial Design

This thesis investigates the use and significance of X-ray crystallographic visualisations of molecular structures in postwar British material culture across scientific practice and industrial design. It is based on research into artefacts from three areas: X-ray crystallographers’ postwar practices of visualising molecular structures using models and diagrams; the Festival Pattern Group scheme for the 1951 Festival of Britain, in which crystallographic visualisations formed the aesthetic basis of patterns for domestic objects; and postwar furnishings with a ‘ball-and-rod’ form and construction reminiscent of those of molecular models. A key component of the project is methodological. The research brings together subjects, themes and questions traditionally covered separately by two disciplines, the history of design and history of science. This focus necessitated developing an interdisciplinary set of methods, which results in the reassessment of disciplinary borders and productive cross-disciplinary methodological applications. This thesis also identifies new territory for shared methods: it employs network models to examine cross-disciplinary interaction between practitioners in crystallography and design, and a biographical approach to designed objects that over time became mediators of historical narratives about science. Artefact-based, archival and oral interviewing methods illuminate the production, use and circulation of the objects examined in this research. This interdisciplinary approach underpins the generation of new historical narratives in this thesis. It revises existing histories of the cultural transmissions between X-ray crystallography and the production and reception of designed objects in postwar Britain. I argue that these transmissions were more complex than has been acknowledged by historians: they were contingent upon postwar scientific and design practices, material conditions in postwar Britain and the dynamics of historical memory, both scholarly and popular. This thesis comprises four chapters. Chapter one explores X-ray crystallographers’ visualisation practices, conceived here as a form of craft. Chapter two builds on this, demonstrating that the Festival Pattern Group witnesses the encounter between crystallographic practice, design practice and aesthetic ideologies operating within social networks associated with postwar modernisms. Chapters three and four focus on ball-and-rod furnishings in postwar and present-day Britain, respectively. I contend that strong relationships between these designed objects and crystallographic visualisations, for example the appellation ‘atomic design’, have been largely realised through historical narratives active today in the consumption of ‘retro’ and ‘mid-century modern’ artefacts. The attention to contemporary historical narratives necessitates this dual historical focus: the research is rooted in the period from the end of the Second World War until the early 1960s, but extends to the history of now. This thesis responds to the need for practical research on methods for studying cross-disciplinary interactions and their histories. It reveals the effects of submitting historical subjects that are situated on disciplinary boundaries to interdisciplinary interpretation. Old models, such as that of unidirectional ‘influence’, subside and the resulting picture is a refracted one: this study demonstrates that the material form and meaning of crystallographic visualisations, within scientific practice and across their use and echoes in designed objects, are multiple and contingent.

Sources to study Antiquity: Between texts and material culture. Abstract Book

FCT

Under the roof and the pen of Elizabeth Willing Powel. Material culture, sociability, and letters in revolutionary and early republican Philadelphia

Ce mémoire a pour toile de fond Philadelphia à la fin du dix-huitième siècle et couvre les périodes de la Révolution américaine et les débuts de la République. Trois thèmes s’y entrelacent: la culture matérielle, la sociabilité, et l’agentivité des femmes. Ces trois thèmes sont explorés au travers de Elizabeth Willing Powel, une femme éduquée faisant partie de l’élite de Philadelphie, et des moyens avec lesquels elle s’auto-projetait auprès de la société au travers l’environnement matériel de sa maison – la Powel House – and au travers de sa correspondance. Elizabeth Powel était reconnue pour son intelligence, son art de la conversation et ses qualités d’hôtesse. Ce projet explore les interactions entre une femme de l’élite et son environnement matériel durant les périodes révolutionnaires et postrévolutionnaires. Le but est d’observer comment la culture matérielle représentait des positions sociales, culturelles et politiques. Ce mémoire observe les interactions sociales et les façons dont Elizabeth Powel se représente en société par une analyse de sa correspondance, analyse qui porte une attention particulière aux discours de Elizabeth sur les questions du rôle des femmes en société, de l’éducation des femmes. Enfin, ce mémoire explore comment la culture matérielle et l’écriture épistolaire étaient des vecteurs d’agentivité pour Elizabeth, des moyens de participer aux important changements qui transformaient la société américaine de la fin du dix-huitième siècle.

Alanine-rich amphiphilic peptide containing the RGD cell adhesion motif: a coating material for human fibroblast attachment and culture

We studied the self-assembly of peptide A6RGD (A: alanine, R: arginine, G: glycine, D: aspartic acid) in water, and the use of A6RGD substrates as coatings to promote the attachment of human cornea stromal fibroblasts (hCSFs). The self-assembled motif of A6RGD was shown to depend on the peptide concentration in water, where both vesicle and fibril formation were observed. Oligomers were detected for 0.7 wt% A6RGD, which evolved into short peptide fibres at 1.0 wt% A6RGD, while a co-existence of vesicles and long peptide fibres was revealed for 2–15 wt% A6RGD. A6RGD vesicle walls were shown to have a multilayer structure built out of highly interdigitated A6 units, while A6RGD fibres were based on β-sheet assemblies. Changes in the self-assembly motif with concentration were reflected in the cell culture assay results. Films dried from 0.1–1.0 wt% A6RGD solutions allowed hCSFs to attach and significantly enhanced cell proliferation relative to the control. In contrast, films dried from 2.5 wt% A6RGD solutions were toxic to hCSFs.

Re-fitting Etton: space, time and material culture within a causewayed enclosure in Cambridgeshire

This paper considers the dynamics of deposition around and across the causewayed enclosure at Etton, Cambridgeshire. As a result of detailed re-analysis (particularly refitting) of the pottery and flint assemblages from the site, it proved possible to shed new light both on the temporality of occupation and the character of deposition there. Certain aspects of our work challenge previous interpretations of the site, and of causewayed enclosures in general; but, just as importantly, others confirm materially what has previously been suggested. The quantities of material deposited at Etton reveal that the enclosure was occupied only very intermittently and certainly less regularly than other contemporary sites in the region. The spatial distribution of material suggests that the enclosure ditch lay open for the entirety of the monument's life, but that acts of deposition generally focused on a specific part of the monument at any one time. As well as enhancing our knowledge of one particular causewayed enclosure, it is hoped that this paper – in combination with our earlier analysis of the pit site at Kilverstone – makes clear the potential that detailed material analysis has to offer in relation to our understanding of the temporality of occupation on prehistoric sites in general.

The late Roman field army in Northern Britain? Mobility, material culture and multi-isotope analysis at Scorton (N. Yorks)

At Hollow Banks Quarry, Scorton, located just north of Catterick (N Yorks.), a highly unusual group of 15 late Roman burials was excavated between 1998 and 2000. The small cemetery consists of almost exclusively male burials, dated to the fourth century. An unusually large proportion of these individuals was buried with crossbow brooches and belt fittings, suggesting that they may have been serving in the late Roman army or administration and may have come to Scorton from the Continent. Multi-isotope analyses (carbon, nitrogen, oxygen and strontium) of nine sufficiently well-preserved individuals indicate that seven males, all equipped with crossbow brooches and/or belt fittings, were not local to the Catterick area and that at least six of them probably came from the European mainland. Dietary (carbon and nitrogen isotope) analysis only of a tenth individual also suggests a non-local origin. At Scorton it appears that the presence of crossbow brooches and belts in the grave was more important for suggesting non-British origins than whether or not they were worn. This paper argues that cultural and social factors played a crucial part in the creation of funerary identities and highlights the need for both multi-proxy analyses and the careful contextual study of artefacts.